Tony1981

Hey guys, I have a set of GTR Injectors mated to an RB30E stock fuel rail - I used these injectors on my RB30ET engine but have now gone a different route and no longer require them!!! For sale: GTR Injectors & R31 RB30 fuel rail Item Condition: Good used condition Price and price conditions: $250 Contact Details: PM me or email - [email protected] Location: Canberra Delivery & Conditions of Delivery: I will post at buyers expense - wouldn't be more than $20 Aust Wide

Just curious about manifolds as well Cubes, those turbo's dont have internal gates and I cant fit in a high mount manifold - absolutely no way does it fit under the bonnet of my Z, Are you modding the stock low-mount and sticking a blow-off valve on top?

Mine recently made 302rwkw on 17psi. 200rwkw by 3.5k and 256rwkw by 4k. The cams really woke the motor up. I must be dyslexic as I typed 265rwkw at 4k in other threads :S. Its actually 256. Its called a transposition error, you can tell because the difference is divisible by 9, ie...265-256 = 9 or example.........1170 or 1710, diff = 540/60 = 9, whenever the difference is equally divisbled by 9, its called a transposition error, common mistake in bookkeeping - I studied Commerce at UNI :-) And surprisingly as power is so linear traction problems are very little. Not lag lag lag and then hard snapping power delivery.. Just brute mid range when you put your foot down. Thats exactly what I am looking for, for the moment I am running an N/A RB30 5spd, and old uni'd half-shafts and 27spline'd stub axles, dont want the power delivery to come slammin on at 4000rpm!!!

Cubes, I am need of a turbo for my conversion and I was thinking something like this would be good, http://www.turbobygarrett.com/turbobygarre...T30/GT3071R.htm With a .63 or .82 A/R, Thats not to small is it?

What do you mean by into R&R? Well I guess no matter which way you look at it the stock ECU isnt probably going to be a long term option stock with the RB30 bottom end, even if you do go with a stock turbo, injectors and AFM, Guess a more straight foward option would be to use the RB25DET harness, ECU and then plug in an APEXI or something like that!!!

Yeah been reading and it looks as if the R33 cant be re-mapped and I wouldnt be able to use the R32 ECU as I am keeping the VCT, Oh, Autronic's are expensive!!! But if I used the R33 turbo ECU, injectors, AFM and loom and kept the boost low, like 8psi - the ECU should be able to run that shouldnt it? I would guesstimate that to be around the 180-200rwkw with the RB30DET engine running the stock R33 RB25 turbo - or is the stock R33 turbo ECU incapable of this?

My RB25DE didnt come with the wiring loom - so would have to grab one, Just curious how I would tell which R33 RB25DE wiring loom to get? There is a series 1 and series 2 R33 RB25DE right? Then there would obiviously be a harness that suits the N/A and Turbo engines respectively, My RB25DE engine/head is from a 1993/4 R33 (I think) but is there anyway I can make sure I purchase the correct wiring loom? or does it really matter? I assume the turbo harness has stuff like a knock sensor, whereas the N/A loom wouldnt, Also - I would probably want to use RB25DET injectors and RB25DET turbo ECU

RB30ET is already in there :-) - making 173rwkw on 14psi, cant remember what torque figures I was making, certainly more than the old L26, but certainly less than what the RB30DET seems capable of - but your right, I have gone reasonably easy on the gearbox but starting to feel notchy and make noises!!! You can fit the RB25DET gearbox just have to re-locate the mounts in the transmission tunnel, not a big issue, just a little fiddly really, actually not a problem in the 240z as the gearbox mounts arent in the transmission tunnel like they are in the 260z - half-shafts and stub axles are more of a concern, but your right Adriano start off with small boost and then when have built a more bullet proof rear end run more power through it, "PS there isnt too much work involved in fitting a complete skyline rear end, just need to be picky with your wheel offsets." Yes, there is unfortunately :-)

Its all in a 260z, so power actually is an issue - half shafts (good old UNIs) and stub axles (27 spline) are supposed to be quite the weak point and unless I cut out the original gearbox mounts all I can run is the skinny RB30E or RB20DET gearbox, So realistically, unless I make some improvemets in the driveline I will be limited with what power levels I can chase - Think going for much more than 175-200rwkw would be pushing my little Datto to its limits!!! Which I guess means I am in luck, that kinda power looks like its easily achievable with running 8-12psi, and well below 5500rpm - that should allow for the RB30/25 engine lasting forever!!! "I have an RB25 turbo on my 25DE/30 (not a standard bottom end though). It makes 12psi by 2200rpm, 183rwkw @4600rpm but chokes the engine up at about 5800rpm so badly that by the time it gets to the 6800rpm limiter it's only making 67rwkw!" I am probably safer with it spooling up a bit lazier than that, because quick snapping force is going to break things - just dont want it as lazy as it was before with the EBAY T3/T4 thing, I wont be chasing big HP in this car, because even if I do fit an R230, get custom half-shafts with a set of 35 (maybe even 41) spline stub axles - how the f#ck will the car lay that kind of power :-)!!! Rwd with (if I am lucky) 235's on the rear, probably just sitting there spinning the rear wheels until the tyres burst :-)

Yeah I was thinking of using a stock R33 RB25 turbo or the turbo from the VG30DET, I wont be chasing big HP, more daily drive-ability!!!

Thats for the stories guys, certainly put my mind at ease!!! Have a few questions for you guys, What is this engine like to live with everyday by just slapping the RB25DE head onto the RB30E engine? Is it a pig off-boost? Also, what turbo's are you guys running with the RB25 head slapped onto a stock RB30E N/A engine? Guess this sorta relates to the "off-boost" question - but you use a stock RB25 turbo might come on boost at 2000rpm and "off-boost" wont really exist :-), Just had a pretty ordinary experience in the past with slapping an EBAY T3/T4 turbo on the side of an RB30 n/a engine, did the right things, R32 GTR Injectors, re-chipped ECU, but the end result was just ordinary, doey as down low, didnt come on full-boost (14psi) until about 4200rpm, just want to avoid the same sorts of pitfalls - because they are expensive :-)!!!

Actually got a quote of only $210 for a set of ARP ones today - that sounds cheap :-), pretty funny the retail prices in Canberra sometimes, almost amazing really :-), I was probably just going to go with geniune RB30E items, or is that being just a little bit to cheap?

Isnt shot peening a process basically sand-blasting the rods with plastic instead of sand? Apparently there isnt anyone who can actually do it in Canberra anyways :-), Got some prices and I think I will not bother with the shot peening, dosent seem like it is worth the expense, For $280 - get the block decked 1-1.2mm (as much as it is required to get the pistons flush), chemical clean, new welsh plugs, hone the bores and drill a tap a 2nd hole for the 2nd belt tensioner, $280 - for balancing the crank, rods, pistons, balancer and flywheel/clutch, Then re-use the RB25DE pistons, RB30E rods and crank with new ACL bearings, Pistons rings,

Well with that sort of expense can build one to suit a turbo and aim for 400rwkw, my little 260z would have a heart attack with that much power in it, but yeah was thinking forged rods and pistons for an N/A build wouldnt really be worth the expense :-), How much does shot peening cost? just approximate prices, Just reading through some older posts and I think it was you, who got a quote of $80 for a crank collar to use the RB25 oil pump? - I was quoted $150 by a local engine builder - just want to have a rough idea about what is an appropriate cost for shot peening my conrods, Ages ago I bought an RB30 twin throttle bodied manifold where someone had basically slapped two RB30E throttle bodies onto the stock manifold - cut out the entire front, welded on a new front piece, welded on two flanges to mount the TB's and connected them via a rod - so when you open one throttle, both open at the same time and same rate - is this what you fellows are doing with the 150-200rwkw RB30DE engines or are you still running the stock manifold and throttle bodies???

Yeah going to get new rings, new bearings, new head gasket, new head bolts, new waterpump, new thermostat, pretty much everything will be new except the pistons, rods and crank, With a set of forged rods or getting the stock ones shot peened, how far can the RB30 rev? how far past 7000rpm??? If I spent $750 on a set of rods and bolts for an N/A application I would want to be able to rev its a@s off all day everyday :-)!!! How do the stock RB25DE pistons hold up to this sort of power? I was thinking of using the set out of the RB25DE motor I grabbed the head off,

Your going to be making more than 200rwk with an N/A 3L motor???

When you say deck the block to bring the edge of the pistons flush with the top of the block, probably a dumb question, but your meaning the top of the dome of the piston right? I have just pulled the head of my RB25DE motor, its an R33 with the VCT, which I am going to keep using - I have a really decent complete RB30E motor and 2 other RB30E engines kicking around, thinking I will pull apart one of the other RB30E engines and rebuilt it, both appear to have good bores still meauring 86mm, was thinking of the following, advice is greatly appreciated!!! Re-using the RB25DE Belt tensioner, RB25DE pistons and Oil Pump from the RB25DE engine, get a new set of ACL piston rings, ACL bearings and use RB30E head gasket and new RB25DE head bolts (both will be just Genuine Nissan), Gates version of the Dayco 94407 belt, or just grab one from Justjap (I assume its the same belt), New waterpump and thermostat, once again genuine Nissan (Since I slapped a turbo on the side of my RB30E engine I have had a bastard of a time keeping the engine cool) - no more Repco Triton brand for me!!! As for the RB30 Block, Dip it, hone the bores, new welsh plugs and drill a nice new hole above the water pump for the 2nd timing belt tensioner, also deck the block - I will follow your example dondesoto, just do a dummy install so I dont get to much taken off :-), Put a collar on the RB30E crank for the RB25DE oil pump, Mate is drilling a hole just below the VCT solenoid on the RB25DE head and getting me the plumbing required to T-Piece some oil from the oil pressure sender unit, Make up an extension for the Timing cover, Then get some high temp gasket goo for my rear mounted sump, Cant get adjustable cam gear for the intake side because of the VCT, but will grab adjustable gear for the exhaust side - any recommendations??? Only thing I am not really sure about is the Rods - I will be keeping the stock ones for sure, but not to sure what sort of treatment I should give them??? Am I missing anything???

Is anyone doing the RB25/30 N/A Conversion with RB25DE N/A pistons, remembering hearing about this fellow with a 240z who used, RB30E block, crank and rods, RB25DE N/A pistons and decked the block to get about 10.5:1 compression ratio - using the pistons to get a higher compression ratio as opposed to shaving 2mm of the head would be a better idea wouldnt it? Has anyone gone down the RB25DE N/A piston route when building there RB25/30 N/A motor?

Hey guys, was wondering who out there with an RB30-25/26 engine is running the factory wiring and ECU? More interested in the ECU, as you can run the factory wiring, get an adapter plug and run an aftermarket ECU :-), I have a bare RB25 R33 engine, no wiring loom and my 260z has a RB30 engine, wiring loom and chipped ECU in it currently - even at this point, all my current engine wiring has to go to make way for the RB25 head, but not sure about which way to go!!! I slapped a turbo on the side of the RB30 engine and then chipped the ECU, however, wasnt overly happy with the way it turned it, A/F ratio's werent quite right, was a bit doey, didnt make as much power as I would have thought (170rwkw on 14psi with t3/t4) and throttle was very weird, Basically looking to save myself the R&D, of buying an R33 wiring harness, trying to chip an R32 ECU (if it will even plug into the R33 loom) playing around on the Dyno and then just going out and buying an Autronic anyway, I have read through that RB30DET Faq and it says the stock wiring and ECU can certainly be used, but maybe better only as an interim measure? I cant see any reason why an R33 RB25DET wiring harness and ECU wouldnt work properly with the RB30DET engine, but any first hand experience would be greatly appreciated!!!

Hey guys, Was looking for some real first hand experience :-), I am in the middle of putting together an RB30 N/A engine and R33 RB25 head, but was curious about how long this thing will last, I have quite a few RB30 blocks lying about the place, but I also have a very decent complete RB30 engine, 155 across all cylinders, about 190,000km's on its clock and one complete RB25DE from an R33, What I was thinking of doing is basically slapping on the RB25 head without touching the RB30 bottom end, I figure this should give me a reasonably boost friendly compression ratio of somewhere between 8.2 to 8.5:1 - looks like the head has been off at some point and replaced, so maybe someone decked the block, dont know, I was going to run standard Nissan head gasket, standard nissan RB25 head studs, From what I have gathered the only difference between the RB30E and RB30ET pistons is one is dished, but both are made out of the same stuff, so as long as I am not chasing big big HP, my stock RB30 N/A bottom end should hold together??? Just interested to find out if other people have gone down this route and had success, I remember speaking to the fellows at RIPS a few years back and they said they did something pretty similar, re-freshed the bottom end, used 2nd hand RB30 N/A pistons, slapped an RB25 head onto it, and put 600hp through the engine and 5yrs later it was still going strong,

I think this would be a relatively straight forward conversion, The R30 mounts look very similar to 280zx and 240z-260z engine mounts (makes sense as they all use the same engine mounts as they all use the L6 engine :-), You cant just bolt an RB into an R30 using the metal engine mounts that are currently in the car, they will not bolt up to the RB engine, So, what you can do as far as "off-the-shelf" options go are, Buy a set of Castlemaine-Rod-Shop engine mounts (for the RB into a 260z), Or Purchase a set of 300zx engine mounts that used the RB20 engine (200zr or something like that) in it (tad difficult to find), Because these cars suit a front mounted sump your in luck, all RB's (except the 200zr RB20 300zx) have front mounted sumps, YAY!!! Lets assume you get a set of CRS mounts, you should be literally able to just bolt the engine in place, and hopefully the sump will clear, I would worry about using the RB30 block as its about 25mm taller than the 20,25,26 engine, might make life tricky closing your bonnett, With the engine in place you will probably find that you will need to whip up a new gearbox crossmember, When i wacked an RB30 into my Zed i used the original L-Series 5spd crossmember, cut the ends of it, welded in a piece of steel and re-attached the ends, very straight forward - just got a mate to tack it when i was certain of its position, took it out and he welded it up for me, cheap and easy, Tailshaft is not all that difficult - if you need to have one customed just stick in the yoke, pull it out about an 1" and measure the distance from the centre of the uni joint to the diff flange, take this measurement to a local machine shop and they should be able to whip you up something that will suit, If you use the CRS mounts, i would be very surprised if the engine atleast didnt literally bolt straight in, without clearance issues,

Do R31 Stovetops lights fit into R30's?

"I have an rb30 bolted into my Silver C210, I used vl engine brakets, and C210 monts...bolted straight in..." I dont think this would actually work, C210 engine mounts (bit that bolts to the crossmember) are identical, or look identical to engine mounts of a Zed, these have 2 little holes either side for bolts, this then mates up to a steel bracket that connects to the engine, VL engine brackets have a big bolt in the middle of the mount, not either side like the C210, For an RB engine to bolt straight into the C210, you would require something like the CRS mounts used to slap RB30's into Zeds, which have the RB bolt pattern for the engine and the older datto styled engine mounts on the other side, Unless your C210 mounts are different from mine, VL engine brackets will not bolt straight up to the C210 style engine mounts,

Not 100% sure but don't C210's have Chapman Strut rear ends like a 240/260Z ? If so the DR30 semi trailing arm IRS won't fit . Nah mate, the only cars ive ever seen with Chapman struts are Lotus's and Zeds - the Skyline has the same rear suspension setup as an R30, same as a 280zx it looks like as well, I have a 1985 R30 Sedan and a 1978 C210 Sedan - the track is different on them, its about 20mm different from tyre centres, the R30's rear end is wider,

Was wondering if anyone can help me get my car started, Its an R30 skyline with EFI'd L24 engine it in, i seem to be getting pretty good spark - but not sure about the fuel, I cannot hear the fuel pump when car is on accessaries or start, i also removed the line from the fuel filter (in the engine bay) there was fuel in the filter, but i was thinking fuel should piss out when i turned the key to acc or start? this did not happen.............. Anyone got any suggestions?