Daboss

By check what do you mean? If you mean switch it with a known good ecu then the answer is no. If you mean check continuity from loom to inside ecu then yes I did with positive results. Think I figured why I got the 55, I had the battery disconnect so it reset the ecu and when I did diagnostic the car had not been started just placed in the on position. So that resulted in all sensors seeming to be ok until the first start of the car , then the ecu was able to pick up the fault and that's why after the drive i came back with the error 21. I also wanted to know if the Mitsubishi sign in the middle of the cas is suppose to spin when the car is idling?

Did that today got continuity for the ground, the white wire and the coloured wires in each of the plugs for the coil packs. Yea I pulled the old plugs and all had carbon build up all were coated in black soot so I changed them all. I briefly got a 55 today on the diagnostic, so I immediately went on a run got the misfire and when I returned and checked the 21 came back up again . Also I noticed the Mitsubishi sign in my cas spins, is it suppose to do that? Only thing I did today was check for continuity from coil pack to ecu, disconnecting the battery while I did this and then connected everything back up. Didn't change a thing. So how did the 55 appear? Even more lost now if that is even possible ! At idle the car runs smoothly, free reving it and letting it fall it idles right under 1000rpm even when driving, but other times only when driving and I let the revs fall by sinking the clutch and coming to a stop it nearly cuts off and then begins hunting. Then there is the miss when flooring it and reaching about 3500-4000 rpm under boost.

Series two so no igniter. Well I make sure its in tight, but it can't hurt to check it again. So will do. I think I have exhausted all options, right now I am just about to chuck it up as unsolvable. Car runs fine except for the occasional hunting and ohh yea it misses when I boot it hard at around 3000-4000 rpm and please don't say plugs or coil packs because I have a new set of both.

Yea I know I have the service manual and I did the test all came back with the results in the manual. Unplug coil one by one and listen if it changes how the car runs, unplug the ecu loom and test for continuity from coil to loom and then loom to ecu. I have not tried the output one with the car running as I am afraid to short something and completely mess up my ride. If you had read my latest post you would have seen that the old coils have been replaced by spitfires. Anyone else with something I have not tried?

Ok great, please keep me informed.

Sorry to bring an old thread back up, but I am still getting this error code 21 and a slight hunting issue. I have checked all wires from coil pack to ecu and get continuity, replaced coil packs with spitfires, cleaned afm, cleaned aac valve, cleaned the contacts with electronic cleaner, reset ecu and still the code shows up. I checked hoses for vacuum leaks and all seems fine. I unplugged the cas and tried to start the car, naturally it didn't start, plugged it back in car started fine checked diagnostic and came back with error code 11 and 21. The 11 was expected as the cas was unplugged. I am stumped anybody has anything else I might have missed? I am figuring to just drive the car like that and ignore the 21, cause it runs ok besides the hunting issue which I feel is directly related to the code 21. Please anymore advice I really need it cause I am out of things to try.

You still have not answered the question, a simple yes they can fit or no they cannot fit will do nicely. I ask this because I noticed the actuator arm on the rb25 is long compared to an hks adjustable actuator arm I saw, even if it is fully extended I don't think it will reach the internal wastegate clip. If there is a way to make it work I am all ears. Not really concerned about changing the pressure I know it will change, more concerned about if it is long enough to reach the stock turbo's internal wastegate with the stock wastegate bracket.

Hey forum just a quick question before I go and spend money. Can the HKS adjustable actuators fit on a stock rb25 turbo? I see they are kinda small and short. Just wanting to know if they will fit without modification? If not what would be a bolt on upgrade?

Are the stock side mirrors for the r32 and r33 gtst interchangable?

Ok quick question. I have a series 1.5 with the black housing headlights ,but I want to change them cause one side is not sealed properly and after a drive it is fogged and cloudy and I really dont want to go through putting it in the baker to try and reseal it. AHHHHH I just want some diff headlights cleaner, less yellowing and scratches. I wanted to know if the chrome headlights from the series one gts can fit my vehicle with little to no modification?

Happy to report I have found the problem. Thanks to everyone for there time and suggestions helped a great deal. You wouldn't believe what it was. The dang fuse wasn't big enough had a 30 amp fuse in there needed a 40. What gave it away for me was when I was checking it with my wiring I could hear the pump start to prime struggle and then die off. Indicating voltage going there was not enough, only other thing besides wiring that would cause that is fuse size and thats what it was. So once again thank you all. Excellent job.

No all help is welcome, thats why I do things in pairs because something small I may have missed you could spot. I will get a test light and go through the process again. Thanks for your input.

I don't have a problem with the fuel pump relay. That works fine I think I can even hear it click when ignition is on the problem I see is when I connect MY wiring to the pump, more particularly the wire out the 87, no voltage goes to signal it to prime now with it disconnected their is voltage but when connect no voltage for some reason. Also if that was the case, wouldn't that mean that I would have never got my wiring to work? I was driving around with the rewire for sometime now it just started acting up like maybe a week ago. Got no priming thought fuse was blown looked at it changed it got it to work, stopped at a friends went to start back up no priming fooled with the fuse again took many tries but it finally worked decided to go back to stock plug and wiring that gets it to start and prime everytime. Just wanted to rewire to ensure full voltage at pump and cant figure why it would just stop working all of a sudden and why the rewire doesn't work. It should, Hell it was working fine for months before.

No it works fine and its basically new. Just doesn't work with the rewire, stock wirirng it primes and runs great. Tried your method and everything works fine until I splice the stock power wiring. I connect the spade connector I get no voltage goin through it to prime at ignition on but if I take it off and test the spade connector at ignition it get full voltage for the ignition prime. With car running, obviously with the stock wiring, and testing the wiring I put in i get the full voltage of the battery. As soon as i disconnect the stock setup and use my own, pump doesn't even prime. I also tried just hooking directly to battery with the same wiring I am using and the pump came on so it isn't the spade connectors or the wiring , I splice my wiring into the stock power wiring and hooked my wiring to the pump, it comes on and operates fine, but as soon as I separate the pump power wire to use one side as a signal for my relay the pump doesn't work. It isn't the relay cause it gets signal at prime without being connected to the pump and also with car running voltage across its circuit is same as at battery. The problem is when I separate the stock power wiring to use as a signal to activate my relay, when that wire is separated and used as signal to trigger my relay it sends the signal, but not when connect to the pump. When I connect the spade connector to power the pump and test at ignition on no voltage, but if I disconnect and test I get voltage at ignition through the spade connector, put it back on and test no voltage. My next option is to find another ignition source and try to use that.

Hmmm don't really understand your question!! I can say that when testing voltages at priming the voltage gets to the pump through my wiring, meaning right at the point were the stock plug would go I am getting voltage with car on I am getting voltage out of my wires at the at that same point also, just that it does not activate the pump for some reason . If it were an internal break wouldn't that mean that I wouldn't be getting any voltage from the wires going to the pump? Its like my car does not want any other wiring there except stock.

Yea exactly. I just came from trying all types of scenarios with my ride and none worked so I just gave up and left it with the stock. I proved that the relay is ok by testing across the ground and power wire with stock wiring priming the pump and sure enough got 13.5 volts across my wiring. With car on got a steady 13.5 volts across my wiring, switched it around to have my wiring powering the pump and got nothing. The pump would not even prime, switched it right back to stock and it ran with no problem. I even used the stock wiring ground as suggested and still nothing, I have given up for the life of me I can't find this problem out.

Yea the standard r33 plug has two wires earth and power. I didnt use the standard wiring ground just left it alone. Yea I guess I could earth it back through the standard wiring and try it like that. Just that I had the earth str8 to the battery and was using thicker wire so I didnt want to bother with the stock wiring at all.

Did that and its fine. Checked it by holding the negative lead of a voltmeter onto ground and the positive to the battery positive and I got the battery voltage on the meter. So earth is fine.

Hello forum seeking some sound thesis and advise from fellow skyliners. Okay here is the story wired my aftermarket fuel pump for the full voltage and after about six months of perfect working order now it doesn't. I wired it like this using the bosch style automotive relay: Fuel pump negative straight to battery negative, fuel pump positive spliced into the 86 for the signal to prime the fuel pump, 85 earthed, 30 directly to the battery with fuse and 87 directly to the fuel pump. Now this setup has been working for me for months and now it doesn't. When I cut the battery on instead of the fuel pump priming I get a clicking sound that seems to be coming from within the latch area for the trunk right behind the skyline sign is where it seems to b located. Funny thing is when I plug the stock plug back in it works excellently without fail. I didn't get rid of the stock plug if you are wondering how I was able to use it just spliced off the stock plug positive to get the pump to prime and stop as the stock setup had it. That is also how I know the relay is getting power cause the pump operates fine as soon as I plug in the stock wiring so i know that the signal is getting to the relay cause the pump wiring is spliced into tht. I tried replacing the relay that did nothing, so I am turning to you guys for more ideas. Maybe it was just my luck to have two bad relays I will try another tomorro but something tells me it won't work either!!! Any suggestions????????????

Same thing happened to me and it turned out to be rings in piston 6 and another piston, cant remember the other piston number, were gone. Didn't keep blowing the dipstick out tho other symptons were identical with the oil and stuff except the black smoke but, as i drove i noticed the light grey smoke as mentioned on deceleration. Had a compression test done sure enough six was gone so had to rebuild . Hope your situation gets resolved and is less expensive than a rebuild. Good Luck mate!!!

I have an afc neo with it. So what do you think it is? Coilpacks need replacing?

Hey forum just wanting a little help in figuring out whats wrong with my car. The short version, Had misfire from about 4000 rpm, taped coilpacks fixed it, boosting the other day intercooler pipe blew off car ran like $hi% and stalled a few times hobbled it to a corner where i put the cooler pipe back on and made it home to fix the pipe back. Miss is now back at same rpm and Now car hunts a little at idle. If i let sit then start the car almost dies but catches and idles at about 12 - 1500 rpm but only when cold, then all is good will only hunt a little till warm. Can smell what I believe to be fuel coming from the exhaust at idle and normal driving, didn't check on boost cause car isn't running right so don't wanna cause any significant damage but, I guess it will be the same on boost as well, there is gurgguling and popping effect on deceleration more noticeably now than before. Wideband reads 14 - 15 at idle I can see smoke coming from the exhaust along with the weird smell and that whats confusing me why is it having an ok reading but I can smell and see what what seems to be fuel. On cruise car only richens up say around 2000 rpm gets to 12 -13 but if I keep it there it levels out to 14 -15 afr. Did diagnostic came back with an error code 21. Was able to do the coilpack test all changed the note of the car except the fourth one which I wasn't able to get to cause it was dark so do not have results for tht one. Unplugged cas and still only got 21 as error code. Cas still changes the timing which it does perfectly, car can start at anytime meaning its getting spark so the cas is ok. Do you think it can be the coilpacks need to be replaced even though all basically changed the note? Also why is it showing stoich but still seems to be burning rich? Whew I know its a mouthfull but just wanted to include all the info .

Hey there forum just popping in to get a little more educated about my car. What I was wanting to kno is if I use a chipped z32 ecu on my rb25det series 2 engine will i need an external igniter pack in order to get it fired up and running? I guy who I was looking into to get my car said thats what would have to be done. It didnt sound to right to me, so I just wanted to know from people on this forum who had this done before if thats how it goes.

Yea I have a proper wideband. So adjusting the spring harder on the bov would that affect my boost response? Would a harder spring rate make boost come on slower and a softer spring rate make it come on quicker?

Hey forum was doing a little experimenting on my vehicle, my mods are in my sig, most recent is a pull type bov tht I have venting to atmo. I kno that this will cause the car to run rich and I need to get a proper ecu to tune it properly but, that's not wht I am asking I just want an explantion as to why the spring rate of the bov affects the afrs so drastically. I noticed when I have the bov spring adjusted hard the car afr's on light load reads in the 12, 13's but when I adjust it soft the afr's read 9-10. What causes this to happen? It goes rich at 2500 rpm after 2500 rpm it goes back to 14-16 afr at cruise/light load with hard spring rate. Now with the bov adjusted at a soft spring rate at light load at 2500 rpm the afr drop to below 9 and stay there till about 3000 rpm and if I keep throttle at same position the afr goes to 14 but, the minute I give partial throttle without building boost the afr's go rich. I was wondering if anyone could explain this to me as it relates to the bov spring rate, not the ecu as i know the ecu is just adding fuel for the recirculated air its expecting that isn't there.