Daboss

Ok I know its been covered before I read all the post on it and cant find what I need know, hence I am asking this question. I am thinking about doing the z32 ecu into rb25 and just wanted to know besides the wire swaps and rom editing is there anything else you have to do in order to get the car. I read somewhere that you have to jumper something on the z32 ecu so that it reads from external memory. Is this true, and if it is what do you have to jumper? Or is it just a matter of rewire and install daughterboard with the new tune?

No not a gallon and a half of oil. A gallon of oil and half a quart of oil. No I was just sayin tht to show it wasn't a str8 out the workshop flog. I just boosted it that one time after about 300kms of driving off boost.

Ok here is the results of my troubleshooting, I gave it an oil change, changed and regapped all the plugs. Now she runs ok I still her a slight miss at idle so i checked the timing with the tps unplugged and noticed it was fully advanced, so I put timing back to 15 and she ran great. I plugged the tps back in timing dropped to about 5 degrees and the miss came back with a slight knocking sound, took the tps off revs and timing advanced to 15 and the miss and knocking went away she ran great. Put the tps back on and well you can see the pattern. Now my question is what is causing the timing to retard and miss to come about when I plug the tps back in? OHHH, and to answer your questions it was done by a workshop(don't know if I could call them "skyline professionals" as I am in the Bahamas but they know their stuff when it comes to machining cars) the blocked was bored to suit the new forgies. I did give it a lil fang when I got it back wasn't a long period say for about thirty seconds a lil spirited drive and thats not all out just a quick boot in first and second probably got to 6000rpm didn't get to third. Before I fanged it about 300km were put on it no boost and no revving pass 3000. It had about a gallon of oil in it when i changed so oil so tht one still is a mystery to me, when I look on the dipstick now I can't see a level but I know its full because I placed a gallon and half a quart of oil in there myself. Thats not my car in the vid either was to work and it was the closest noise i could get to my car sound will try to get a vid together of my ar and the noise and palce it on here. Thanks for all the great responses so far and I hope u can help my figure this out just this last prob and I am done, You Guys are great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!1

Yea it does still a pain in the a$$ tho cause i just giot a complete rebuild including replacing the bearings. Thrashing it for about thirty seconds with little to no oil did this right? Man this is a royal pain!!!!!!!!!!1

There is a link tht best describes the noise I am hearing from my car. I woul;d like to know if this is knock and also how is this possible? I just got forged pistons and I took it for a spirited drive for like 2 mins giving it a thrashing and i noticed a noise like this when I got back. Checked the oil level and it was extremely low. Could low oil level cause knock? Or is this noise something else? I just put in standard bore pistons there are not oversized or anything. So any help or suggestion will be greatly appreciated. Thanks!!!!!!!!! Just change everything man Fu#$ this is a disaster if anything is wrong. I just changed pistons, headgasket, oil pump, water pump,timing belt, main and con bearings, spark plugs. I mean it was suppose to be a complete service so how the hell could he have not put oil in it, sh*&. I mean the oil level was barely on the L mark and also something was burning, smoke was coming from in the engine bay not much, but it was and it was from the exhaust manifold/dump pipe/turbo area.

Yea but i am not in Australia and to be real the turbo knowledge here is limited and nobody highflows turbos here, thats why i wanted to know what garrett upgrade would basically take the stock turbine housing. Just a simple remove and reattach.

Hey forum how is everyone doing? I am looking at upgrading my turbo and I am not to picky about horsepower and all tht, just want a good upgrade. Now my question is, Which garrett turbo can I use with the turbine exhaust of my stock turbo? I don't want to have to buy a new dump pipe as the one I have now I want to keep and I am a bit tight on money, but none of the gt25 or gt28's of the garrett turbos even come t3 flanged so my question to you is which one will fit the stock exhaust turbine housing and produce the most rwkw?

Sorry to bring up and old thread, but I was wondering if you are putting a z32 ecu into an rb25 and u get the 16 bit version you need a daughterboard that I know and then would u need two chips in order to run the tune? Cause thats what I have to do caus eI got the z32 ecu that is 16 bit so they told me I need two chips in oder to run it.

Well at first i was crimping them but when it didnt work, as I didn't want to keep cutting the wires back I then started twisting and taping for trouble shooting only. The only wire I touched while the electrical system was on is the signal wire to the neo it wasnt even connected to the ecu as i disconnected the input wire from the neo to the ecu, before I cut the car on power and ground were always connected I only touched the signal wire to the monitoring wire of the neo and kept gettin 100%. When I checked the ecu error code I got 12 and thats it and that error code is for the airflow meter but no matter which airflow meter i connect the z32 or the original I get 100% voltage reading. Whats an error code 107 I don't know that one? So as you said I need to get another ecu and maybe airflow meter and test from there.

Ok after about an hour of troubleshooting this is what I came up with. I disconnected the airflow meter and the car started but as you kno ya can't drive around with it like that, so i disconnected the two wires for the afc neo that monitor and control the afm voltage. Now when I turn the car on and touch the signal wire ofI also used the afm to the signal monitor wire of the neo it reads 100% voltage thats with no motor running. Now with the car running as soon as I connect the signal wire(no neo connected) this is connecting the original wire back to the ecu the car dies. I tried it wih the z32 afm as well and the same thing, could this mean that point on the ecu is shorted? Cus i would refuse to believe that both afm are faulty and the original worked right before i tried to put in the z32. The car starts and everything so the ecu isnt totally fried just as soon as the afm is connected it cant start anymore or if I have it started it dies. Oh I forgot to mention that for testin purposes i used some spare wire that I had, just to make sure it wasn't anything wrong with the wiring running back to the ecu. So do you think that its that point on the ecu board itself thats been shorted?

So nobody has any ideas? Wow!!!!!Thanks for all the quick replies !!!!!!!

Was a fluke its not fixed as soon as i turned the car over it started then the afm signal went str8 to 100% and it died. I wired and rewired and no matter what I do as soon as the all the wires are connected the signal jumps str8 to 100% and my car wont start. Does ne1 have a solution for me?

Ok I cleaned the afm and made sure all the wires match up, the afc neo now reads 0% for the afm monitoring feature it has and i got the car to start but it only turned over for like 2 seconds after holding the ignition on for like 4 to 5 seconds then it just died. I tried to get it to start again but it wont. Any other ideas I can try or of what's wrong? I should not have to lean the meter out in order to start the car`right?Thanks for the help so far guys.

Ok will definitely check wiring again and yes when i say play I mean wiggle around and it is the type of bender that you have to put the number in, its an afc neo.

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Fi...html&hl=z32 Thats the tute I am using. I am wiring my car using the series 2 wiring tutorial. I have the three wires so I have to join wires three and four on the z32 and, well the rest is in the tutorial as I stated when i play with the wires it drops down and sometimes fluctuates up and down but for the most part it remains on 100% and the car doesnt start. So what do you suggest I switch the wires around cause I tried to put the standard afm back and the same thing happened as well. Afc neo reads 100% and car wont start and all the wires match up cause its the original afm.

Hey forum have a lil problem with my 95 gts-t and was seeeking the help of the forum to try and solve it? Ok here it is, was installing a z32 airflow meter into my car followed all the steps of the tutorial to a tee and when I went to fire it up it didnt start. So I changed the settings in the afc neo to 2 in 4 out still nothing. After trying to start it for a while i decided to put back in the old airflow meter and when i wired it up the air flow monitor on the neo went str8 to 100%. Tried to start it and nothing. Put the z32 back in and he same thing is happening with that as well the monitor reads 100% as soon as I put the ignition to on. When I play with the wires it drops and jumps back and forth but I can never get to remain on zero were it suppose to b. Now i cant even get my car started and wanted to kno if ne1 on the forum has any solutions for me. All help is appreciated. Thanks!!!

Hey forum just had a quick rotor question for you guys. I was wondering if the z32 rotors can fit on a R33 gts-t without modification?

I was thinking that as well but wiseco does not make 86mm for the rb25 only 86.5mm. If i were to get the 86.5mm it will still have to be bored so I just went with the 87 mm as I was thinking it will handle more boost and increase comp ratio a bit. Do you know of any compny that are affordable and have the rb25 standard size pistons forged?

Hey forum I am at a stand still with my rebuild and just need some expert opinions to get going again. Ok here is the deal I am currently in the process of rebuilding my engine, lost the ring on number six so since it had to open up neway I decided to strengthen it up a bit. I just changed the head gasket to a thicker cometic one and got a set of forgies the wiseco 87mm, all the other little things are getting done as well (oil pump, water pump, tensioners, timing belt etc...,) and what I want to know is if its just as simple as boring out the block to fit the bigger pistons. My main reason for going bigger and forge was to get my monies worth out the rebuild and engine strength for when I fit a bigger turbo. The specs on the piston can be found here http://www.wiseco.com/PDFs/Catalogs/SC08/NissanSubaruToyotaVW.pdf and I just wanted to know if I will run into any problems fitting these pistons, will still be using all original engine parts only the head gasket and pistons will be changed. So can these pistons be fitted to the same conrods and crank do I have to worry bout squish and quench and all that other technical stuff I have been reading up on? I am not looking for any particular compression or trying to build a superior race engine just want to strengthen the engine a bit and get my car back on the road with a somewhat stronger engine. I just want to get it bored drop the pistons in with the new head gasket and close it up.Can this be done or willI have problems?

Hey forum!!!!! How you guys/girls doing? Just a quick question,I was wondering if anyone has seen a bell mouth dump made for the 5 bolt turbine pattern to suit a skyline? If so were can I buy one or does this type of dump pipe need to be custom made? I know they have emm for the silvias but they will be situated upside down in a skyline as apposed to sideways in the silvia.

Ok good one other question if I was to go the z32 ecu route would a turbo or non-turbo ecu matter?

Yea I Know. What I wanted to know was are there any other mods I will have to do or is it a straight swap? Will I have to rewire anything on the ecu or is it just a plug in and everything works except the VCT of course?

Thats what I am asking I don't know. It is not really a series 2 engine it's a 1.5 doesn't have the igniter pack, but has the two plugs on the tps with just one really connected. I don't want to put an igniter pack there just WANT to make sure what it is I have to do so when I get my list of parts and replace the ecu I don't hit a wall cus I left a part out. If its a straight swap I am all for it but if I have to make a few mods I just want to kno what they are, I already kno about the vct have that covered now its just if I wil have to make any more mods or is it just a straight swap.

Hey forum just need to ask a few questions about the topic as I have searched but still just a little confused. Ok as the topic states I want to put a remapped rb20 ecu into my 95 r33. Cant afford a pfc so going the cheaper route. What I want to kno is that like the series 2 I do not see an igniter pack at the back of my engine just a plug( no black box ). Does this mean I will have to get an igniter pack in order for the rb20 ecu to b able to work with my car if so how to i integrate it into the system, also do I use the series 2 ecu diagram in order to see what needs rewiring? I also know that the rb20 ecu doesn't have vct control and I was looking on the hks site and saw two items, the rev ad and the rpm signal level converter, I wanted to know which of the two is suited to run the vct or if there is a cheaper alternative I can go with. Thanks for all the help.

SO nobody can offer any advice even if it is to tell me that i am headed in the wrong or right direction?