Daboss

Hey forum how you great bunch of guys doing? Ok confirmed my problem,lost compression on cylinder 6 so its likely the rings. Compression on 6 is 50 the rest is in the 150's so now i'm gonna rebuild cause it all has to come off anyway. My horsepower goal is 400 to 450. What I need to know is if i need anything else to achieve my engine strength goal. So far I have a cometic triple layer head gasket 1.2mm, strengthened timing belt, tensioners, water pump, oil pump, main bearings and connection bearings and I am looking into a set of mahle 87mm pistons with these specs: RB25DET 87.00 Bore, stroke:71.7mm, rod length:121.5mm, pin dia:21mm , comp height:31.3mm, dome volume:11.5cc, weight:343g, 8.5:1 CR. What does all the specs on the pistons mean and will I run into any problems with this build? I am keeping the same rods and everything else I didn't mention. So what do you guys think and any ideas as to what else I will need, or if you think this will be enuff to sustain 400 to 450 horsepower? Forged from 4032 high silicon low expansion aluminum alloy, is this good or bad for my application?

Wow so that means my timing is basically f&^*ed cus i noticed it was spinnning the other day but I figured it was normal and noticed a bolt was missing so I replaced it and it stopped the spinning thats why i thought it was broken. So can it spinning while in place cause the timing to get stuffed?

Hey there forum I just have a quick question for the experts. Today I noticed that the mitsubishi sign in the middle of my cas was not spinning. I let it idle and gave it some free revs but got nothing. does this mean it is broken? The cas is suppose to spin all the time right?

You must have misunderstood me I have not touched the car since the problem. The cas adjustment was long before this happened and I only took it off recently to check the timing belt thats when I noticed that the timing looked off but could not really tell.

Well I did this and felt no pressure but when I reved it with my finger off the dipstick I saw white smoke. Is that Normal? Did the coolant test as well and saw little bubbles nothing extreme but some bubbles were noticable. They were very tiny. Also I noticed my timing seems off I have to advance the cas fully in order to get 10 degrees btdc could that be causing my car to idle so roughly and miss do you guys feel its time for a belt change has 57000km on the clock.

Does anybody have and answer or opinion for me. As I have took the spark plugs out and got what looks like oil build up on the sixth one and all the rest were clean. White smoke on hard acceleration and what seems like the car is missing on acceleration can really only be felt low in the rpms also inside the radiator has some sludge buildup and the overflow bottle's coolant looks a bit murky. What are these signs of a blown head gasket or blown ring lands on number six cylinder? Do you suggest I rebuild the entire engine or just replace the head gasket and worn ring lands, which ever the problem turns out to be? I was thinking thicker head gasket and forgies one time but, won't be able to do it all until February when I get all the parts and money together now if i go thicker gasket and can find the ring lands separately i'll be able to do it much sooner. Is it ok to drive around like that? Of course I won't be boosting it but its my only car so I really need it to get to work and run errands and as stated white smoke is only seen on hard acceleration.

WOW!! Man this sucks and here I thought I was taking good care of her oil and spark plug changes regularly. Thought i would be able to give it a thrash here and there. I took the spark plugs out today and found oil on the sixth one and only on the sixth one. Does this mean definitely that the sixth cylinder ring is gone and not the head gasket, I know I am going to have to change it neway to get the cylinder fixed just want to make sure that its only that. I also took some pics of my timing belt by lookin at these can you guys tell if its off and should I be able to press on it like that see pics attached.

Ok will look into getting a compression test done. Couple of questions for ya what are the effects of a busted ring land, is there a quick way I can check to see if that a problem without doing a compression test: For instance like taking out my plugs and looking for oil, does it include taking the head off to fix and will it be expensive?

Hey thanks man I will try that. I mean I did use warm water and soap and some bathroom degreaser then used wd 40 after that but I will buy some engine degreaser tomorrow and try that. Do you suppose anything else besides that could be wrong considering the rougher idle, how I have to give it gas in order to take off instead of just using the clutch and the choppy sounding exhaust at take off? Also the leaner idle 15-16 instead of 14 -15.

Hey forum have a little problem with my car that i hope you can help me with. The problem came about after i pushed my car on a track run. somehow the oil dipstick came loose and i lost bout a quart of oil under the hood and during ths time i had my car all out boosting, gearing up and down, you know the regular track type running. Well after all of this i noticed my car was harder to start it would take a long crank to start it and it would sound as if your trying to start the car with the car already on, also at idle my air fuel ratio is at 15 to 16 with no correction on the afc neo and it takes me putting in 20% more fuel to get it to 14. Well after these problems I checked under the hood and noticed the oil everywhere I changed it and still the same problems occur. It is lalso harder to get it rolling with just using the clutch, as i could have now Its a must i give it gas or it would stall. Please help me out with any ideas as to wht my problem or problems could be, do you all feel I have caused any permanent damage? The idle is also a bit rougher and at take off sounds like there is a hole in my exhaust.

I take it these kits come with dump and front pipe? Thats what I would need as my dump and front pipe is one piece Thats why I am so determined to get a turbo with the factory dump flange.

Ok thanks man will save for future reference. Do you kno of any turbo that has the same flange and is an upgrade for the stock?

Just wanted to know if this is the right flange pattern for my r33 gts-t. Need to retain stock pattern as I have a down pipe that fits that pattern and don't want to have to buy another. Also wanted to know if there are any other options or advice people on the forum can offer as I am finding it hard to get a turbo with the stock flange pattern. Thanks in advance.

Hey forum just was wondering if there is anything I can do to get rid of a squeak noise. Here is the problem : my clutch was recently changed but before I changed it there was this annoying squeaky noise everytime the clutch pedal was released in neutral. When depressed no noise when engaged I got the squeak so I figured it was the release bearing, clutch needed to change so I got it changed this includes all the parts release bearing, flywheel, pressure plate pilot bushing and disc. Now I figured the noise would go away cus the release bearing was changed but its back and happens the exact same way. In neutral with clutch engaged I get a squeak the minute i depress the clutch pedal its gone. Is there any remedy for this or another problem it could b or do I just have to get use to it?

Ok theoretically speaking lets say it all lines up correctly, what then would be causing my timing to be so retarded?

Hey thanks for the reply but I'm a noob to clutches. Sorry for my ignorance but were do I look to check the items you have mentioned in your reply.

Hey forgot to mention that I found the prob. No fuse had blown a wire by the fuse holder under the steering wheel column had just became loose as a result of the short. Thanks for all you guys help.

Come on guys somebody anybody please just take a look at the pics and tell me if the timing belt has skipped a tooth.

Ok forum I checked my timing belt and these pics are the results I got. The points look to be one tooth out, Can you confirm this?, also the white mark on the belt is not lined up with any of these points as u can see in the pic. Can normal wear and tear make the timing belt be one tooth off?

No it has never been change and the car has 94000km on the clock. I will check tomorrow and keep you guys informed. If that isn't the prob do you have any idea what else it could be thats causing me to have to fully advance my cas in order to get 15btdc?

Ok I will attempt this tomorrow, thanks guys. If it is out a tooth that means I will Have to remove the timing belt in order to get it realigned or is there another way to do it? Also if it is out a tooth how could this have happened if the timing belt has never been touched?

Thank You for the fast reply. Another question before I go, I have my cas fully advanced and I am only getting 15 btdc. I have never touched the timing belt on my car and neither has anyone else, I played with the cas before in experimenting checking my timing and all was good then I advanced it to 20 btdc played with the low throttle neo settings and now that I have decided to tune over from stock I have to have it fully advanced for 15btdc. What could be the cause of this car has 98000km on the clock.

Hey forum just a general question I need answered. If your timing belt is out a tooth can you align it oer without removing the belt?

Is there anyone you can advise? Also by the belt jumping a tooth on the cam gears that would affect ignition timing? Is there anyway for me to just take a look at it and see whether or not it skipped a tooth without taking off to many parts?

Hey forum just need a quick and correct answer about the clutch in the topic. I just fitted that clutch to my car it came with a 2000lbs pressure plate and i fitted a 5.2 kg flywheel as well the same time. The clutch pedal is a bit stiffer and I can barely balance it, what i want to know is if it is normal for the car to shudder as if its going to stall when trying to balance this type of clutch and to hear sort of like grinding noises coming from the clutch. For example when you ease up off the clutch bit by bit to get it rolling, cus I do this in my car and most of the time it shudders hard and I hear the clutch make a grinding sorta of noise. Now if I give it a bit of gas and pop the clutch its all good no noise at all and the tires chirp and the car jumps out, I mean it jumps out reving to like 1200-1500 for a smooth take off, it jumps out without the shudder. The clutch feels as if its on or off but to be honest its not that much stiffer than stock ,I mean once you can deal with the shudder and the grinding noise u can drive in traffic but you guys no in bumper to bumper sometimes you just have to ease up off the clutch to roll forward a bit and when I do that it gets the shakes. Is this normal for this type of clutch and will it eventually wear in or do I have to change my driving style?