Daboss

Im sorry I will try to be clearer. I was saying that I took the advice and put everything back to stock and wanted to start a tuning afresh. Now I checked my timing after I put everything back to stock and it is at 15 btdc at idle with the cas fully advanced. RPM sits at about 900 and when i remove the tps it shoots to around 1180 or so, I cleaned the aac valve and tried to set the idle by the screw that is on the acc but as soon as I replace or move the tps it goes down(when tps is connected), and idles higher (when tps is disconnected). I then tried to set the idle with ecu only to find that the ecu in the car does not have the screw you turn or a led on. So now I am stumped and really need some assistance as to where to start.

Ok thanks for the reply would that be the fuse thats rated for like 65 amps? If so its in the trunk and I took it out and tested it for continuity and it checked out ok.

Hey forum hows it going, have a prob with my car and wanted some good advice as to where to start looking. Shorted the + cables that are under the bonnet located under the fuse box cover, if you need to know how I will tell you later. There was a spark and the car died. Tried to restart but nothing works no power anywhere, horn kinda makes noise but its sputtering and no volume to it, I hear the noise when you leave the key in the ignition and open the door but I have no interior lights, my fuel pump doesn't prime when ignition on and no dash lights at ignition on. I took all the fuses out from under the steering wheel and checked them there still good and also went to the main fuse in the back trunk tested it and got continuity, same thing with the ignition fuse back there. When I have the ignition on the air bag light on the dash lights up and keeps flickering also my alarm can be armed and disarmed. I am stumped as to what else to check. Any suggestions?

Now that you guys have apparently finished could my question get answered please?

Ok took you guys advice and set everything back to the way it was and will tune from there. Now my only prob is when i check timing with the timing gun at idle, afc neo set to 0 on the low side, With the cas being fully advanced the highest reading I get is 15 btdc, did I stuff something up? I figured with the cas that far advanced it should be to at least 25 but the highest I get is 15 at 950 rpm and when I retard the timing the rpm drops. Are there any solutions for this or is it nothing to worry about?

Yea that's already in the making thats why I am starved for cash with the gts-t, Just wanted to get as close to 220 rwkw in the gtst as I could without spending anymore cash as its all going towards the gtr now. Yes Geetr I am aware it changes with revs the question I was asking was while the engine was at idle. Yea I know and I am listening and I am thankful for you guys patience and help. Just wanted to get the above mentioned hp out of the gtst without spending anymore money on it.

Hi forum its me again your favorite member here to pick your brains. Ok here is the story 95 skyline gtst fmic, pod with heat shield and cas, 3.5" turbo back exhaust split dump, bosch 040 fuel pump, ebc running 12 psi, fuel pressure regulator with base pressure set at 44psi no vacuum, afc neo and always run on 100 octane fuel so about your 105 ron. So I advanced my timing via cas to about 20 degrees btdc and I tuned the afc neo on the low side because I was getting readings of 12 at idle on my wideband after car is completely warm so I used the neo to get the readings to 15 after doing this I checked my timing and it was now at about 5 btdc. Now what i want to know is if me fiddling with the neo caused this and since it is so far retarded will this affect my performance on the high throttle side of the neo cus I'm thinking 5 btdc is real crappy and it will hinder my power output. Also because base pressure is so high thats why my idle was reading so rich so what I was thinking was to turn the pressure down a bit get the afrs a bit leaner reset the low side of my neo and then see if that brings the timing back to 20 btdc if so then use the neo to get the afr's to 15 at idle while keeping timng as close to 20 btdc as possible or do I not even have to go through this as the timing wont be an issue at high throttle.

I just did it awhile back as when at idle with the neo being to 0 my wideband read afr's of 12 after warming up for 10 mins so I took out fuel until it read 14.7, no I didnt take a reading with the neo at 0 will do tomorrow and no I have not tried a different timing light have to find someone with one first. I will try taking a reading with the neo at 0 tomorrow when I get a chance. If it does advance it back to 15 btdc do I leave it there, does it being at 5 btdc endanger the engine in anyway on the low side of the neo, does having the low side of the neo that much retard affect the hi throttle side of the tune? If I were to advance my timing to 20 and still tune my neo for 12 afr's do i risk damaging my engine? Just to know I always run 100 octane fuel. Will also check tps voltage.

ok the rpm tht the fuel comes out at is idle which is 800 with acc and tps connected. Just to know I never disconnected the acc only the tps, as stated by the manual. So you think that because so much fuel has been taken out that is why timing is so low cus at that -21% correction I advanced the timing via cas as far as it would go and the reading only came up to 15. Also whenever I disconnect the tps idle goes up and when I reconnect it idle goes down I tried to fix the idle but my ecu does not have the adjustment knob on it, neither the red light, or any kind of light for that fact, that shows error signals. So I just adjusted using the idle screw and got it to as close to 900 as I could and with the tps off that worked out to be 1180 rpms.

Nah the cas was never off and no I only took the signal off the number one spark plug. A fair bit of fuel has been taken out of the low throttle side via afc neo, 21 to be exact. Could this have anything to do with the timing being so low at idle? Cant tell how it drives as I haven't driven it lately due to clutch being dead was just checking the timing of the car for experience and to make sure all was right for when the new clutch goes in this weekend. What does the rpm jumping to 1180 and the timing reading 20 btdc when i disconnect the tps mean?

Ok here is the deal when I took the reading the aac valve and tps was connected I took the signal from the first spark plug thats when I got the reading of 5 degrees or saw it at the first white mark and the rpm was around 780 -800. I then tried to advance it and the furthest it could get to was 15 degrees btdc or the third white mark so I put it back to where it was. I then disconnected the tps and the rpms went up to like 1180 and when I checked timing It was at the 4th white mark or 20 degrees btdc. I reconneted the tps rpms went down to 780-800 and it read 5 btdc i disconnected the tps rpms went up to 1180 and the timing read 20 btdc and i did this about 4 times with same result. With the tps off I decided to retard the timing a bit via cas so I put it to 15 btdc with tps disconnected and the rpms went to about 900 and when I reconnected the tps rpms dropped to about 700 and timing could not be read it was in front of the orange mark so i put it back to the original position. Like I said some fuel had been taken out via afc neo and I wanted to know if that what was affecting the ignition timing and if it indicated a prob or if this was a normal thing to happen. For it to read 5 btdc at idle.

So nobody has any idea or any kind of solution for this prob? Come on I know there has to be someone out there with some kind of opinion.

Hey forum hows it going? Here to ask the opinions of the experts again. What I want to know is if a dead clutch can affect ignition timing? My car is a 95 gts-t mods are 3.5" turbo back exhaust with split dump, fmic, pod with cai, bosch 040 fuel pump, iridium plugs gapped at .7, boost turned up to 12 psi and afc neo . Ok I was just trying to up my knowledge level, so I got a timing light and was looking to see where my ignition timing was. After the car was completely warmed and i took a look I noticed it was at the first white mark which means 5 degrees btdc now I'm no expert but according to the forum and threads I have read shouldn't that be at 15 also I turned the cas all the way anticlockwise to see what would happen and the mark moved from 5 to about 15 degrees btdc. Now the low side of my neo has been adjusted to take out some fuel. I just wanted to know does this weird reading signify a problem, is it cus of my afc neo adjustments or can it be my clutch as it is dead? If so what are my options? Also I already turned the cas back to its original position and its now back to 5 degrees btdc.

Anyone know if the throw out bearing for a ka24de can fit the rb25det? Cause I need a bearing desperately and thats all I can find over here.

Ok well do you guys kno if the 300zx clutch kit will fit or of any other clutch kit that will fit and be an ugrade over stock? I am in desperate need of a clutch and can't afford to wait and over here they don't carry parts for the skyline so I just need to kno if any other clutch and flywheel can fit on it. Also will the release bearing for a 240 or 3000zx fit? Also how much kg/lbs can the stock pressure plate withstand?

Hey all just popping in to get the answers from the expert just have a quick question for you guys. I was wondering if a clutch kit for an sr20det will fit on an rb25det?

Hey Thanks all found the prob as you stated they are very sensitive to exhaust leaks. There is a hole the size of my finger right above the wideband O2 sensor bung half assed welder didn't weld it properly. Gonna get it welded shut on the weekend hopefully this person does a better job and I can finally tune the car properly.

Can ne1 confirm this?

:Wish I could but dynos are rare over here would fix a whole lot of shit but have to wait a month before they bring the dyno back!!! You all know how it is once you get someting you want it perfect right away just don't have the tools man so I gatta eliminate stuff on my own really think its a leak tho with the seal around the gaskets of the decat pipe might be my mind but think I can hear a little air escaping will get that siliconed also the dump pipe area and move the wideband O2 sensor to just before the deact pipe tis weekend and see if that fixes it.

So even at ignition off your sensor was still on even when you took the key out your sensor would still be on?

Nismoid thats why I am asking the question, not silly at all ,I'm thinking its a bit high for an untuned skyline on stock ecu.With the mods I listed thats a whole lot more breathing room for the engine so I was expecting 10's at least, another mod I forgot to mention is a bosch 040 fuel pump recently installed like 3 months back, also fpr with gauge and stock pressure reads 44 psi at idle without vacuum. At idle also the widebands reads and shows nothing less than 16 and goes all the way to lean as the car warms and in closed loop mode still nothing less than 16 just was wondering if this is common or can I say the wideband is stuffed come on you don't find this a bit strange. Now i can't say my exhaust is perfect but there are no leaks I can visible hear or see.

Hey all just popping in real quickly again to ask the opinions of the forum. Car is a 95 gts-t with fmic, pod with cai, 3.5" turbo back exhaust split dump, running 12 psi with an ebc, always run 100 ron fuel, plugs gapped at .6 or .7, stock everything else and afc neo. Now I was watching my afr's the other day at full throttle and without a tune on stock ecu the reading I got was never below 11 is that common for a skyline with these few mods? Now I'm thinking the readings are definately off cause while at idle I never get anything below 16 just want to confirm that the wideband is stuffed, when at full throttle I never get anything below 11 and I had the wideband exposed to exhaust fumes and heat for like a week before I got power to it. All help is appreciated and welcomed. Thanks again in advance. Also a friend of mine has a ca18 that he wanted to get 300 - 350 rear wheel hp out of and I was wondering if you guys could help out or point in the right direction car is virtually stock and its an automatic.

After reading that I think I figured out the problem the a$$hole that welded the bung for my O2 sensor placed the O2 sensor in the bung and it was in there for a week or so with no power to it while the car ran its daily errands. So I think the O2 senor is destroyed, damnit and I just bout it, Man guess I gatta shell a couple more bucks out for another wideband O2 sensor.

Is there any fix for the sensor getting to hot? Also how can it be if the max heat for the sensor is 850 C?

I only have a question for you in the instruction manual it says when the O2 sensor has reached operating temp air should be displayed on the reader and the white wire should have 5 volts on it. Now i sat in my car for bout five mins and let the O2 sensor get heated and when I checked the white wire all I got was 0.41 volts. I want to know how long it takes for the O2 sensor to reach normal temp and since this seems to b the prob what do I do replace the O2 sensor or the reader? Also my sensor is prob at 3:00.