Daboss

Sorry didnt know where to put it so I placed it twice its a plx wb and it is supposed to be self calibrated. If I let it heat up by itself in open air it goes from 14.6 to 20 to lean to air and thats what the wibesite says it should do. If I then blow on it it reads lean again what the site says it should do, also it does get warm when the power is switched to on and if i disconnect the display reader from the O2 sensor it reads 14.6 again thats what the site says it should do. Now when I start my car and let it idle the display goes from 14.6 to lean when it reaches norm operating temp and the more fuel I add via afc neo the richer it gets but at the most fuel I can add the display reads 14.6 and I bet if i were to leave it there it would eventually read rich. I was wondering if i just have the O2 sensor to far back I have placed it right before the cat.

So you can't really tune at cruising cus what I was trying to do was tune the car to get the afr a bit lean at cruise, no I have stock injectors, still it doesn't explain why the wideband would read lean at idle and lean on the wide ban is anything over 20 there is no possible way for me to be that lean at idle with the stock ecu and no tune and like I state I had the afc neo to the max which is +50% and the afr's went to 14.5 at idle. Could the distance of the wideband O2 senor affect readings cus I have it right before the decat pipe.

Hey everyone whats up got a wideband problem and wanted to see if anyone on here could help me out. Car is a 95 gts-t mods are pod filter with cai, fmic, 3.5" turbo back exhaust with split dump no cat, boosted up to 12 psi, stock ecu and turbo with afc neo. Ok here is the prob got a PLX wideband O2 SENSOR installed the O2 sensor in the decat pipe wired it up correctly and everything got power and the instructions stated that no calibration is needed but if you let it get warm takes 45 sec and it is exposed just to normal air the display should read air did that and air appeared on the display. Now here is the dilemna ct the car on let it get warm reset my afc neo cause Im thinking all is good and I'll be able to tune the afr's myself so I let the car get to normal operating temp took a look at my display and it reads 19 now Im cruisn at 1500 rpm to try and get the afr's right for that rpm and the display says lean and the more gas I put in the the richer it gets but i set the afc neo to +50 and the lowest afr I got was 14.5 I think!!!! What the hell is goin on. I thought skylines with stock ecu ran rich why are my afr's so lean at cruise and I did it at idle and the same thing nothing below 14.5 WHEN I have added +50% on the afc neo and when I set it back to 0 it shows lean. Can any1 help?

Hey everyone whats up got a wideband problem and wanted to see if anyone on here could help me out. Car is a 95 gts-t mods are pod filter with cai, fmic, 3.5" turbo back exhaust with split dump no cat, boosted up to 12 psi, stock ecu and turbo with afc neo. Ok here is the prob got a PLX wideband O2 SENSOR installed the O2 sensor in the decat pipe wired it up correctly and everything got power and the instructions stated that no calibration is needed but if you let it get warm takes 45 sec and it is exposed just to normal air the display should read air did that and air appeared on the display. Now here is the dilemna ct the car on let it get warm reset my afc neo cause Im thinking all is good and I'll be able to tune the afr's myself so I let the car get to normal operating temp took a look at my display and it reads 19 now Im cruisn at 1500 rpm to try and get the afr's right for that rpm and the display says lean and the more gas I put in the the richer it gets but i set the afc neo to +50 and the lowest afr I got was 14.5 I think!!!! What the hell is goin on. I thought skylines with stock ecu ran rich why are my afr's so lean at cruise and I did it at idle and the same thing nothing below 14.5 WHEN I have added +50% on the afc neo and when I set it back to 0 it shows lean. Can any1 help?

Hey forum whats up? Need you guys help again, I checked my ecu for error codes tonight and i got error code 21. Now I checked on the code and it came up as an error code for the ignition signal. What does that mean and what can or must I do to fix it? I have a 95 r33 gts-t. All help is appreciated. Thanks in advance.

Thanks for the reply ppl its really appreciated. Just that my afc neo doesn't have that feature and really don't want to buy a pfc cus where I am at mod wise I am stopping and just wanted to get as much out of the ride as possible without modding any further. Rather buy a pfc for the gtr I am getting . So just leave the cas alone cus for an extra 5kw might end up causing me a new engine not even 5 degrees would be safe even if i always run 100 octane fuel?

Ohhh sorry if I wasn't clear I was speaking of advancing it via cas.

Hey forum how the hell are the greatest bunch of guys and gals this side of the world? Need some advice so I came to the experts. What I want to know is if you have a piggy back that is tuned with these mods shielded pod with cai, fmic, 3.5" turbo back exhaust with split dump, boost 10 lo and 12 hi on stock turbo and always run 100 octane fuel will advancing my ignition time give me any gains? Of course if it does I will retune when I am getting it done. Or with the piggy back tuned that means the ignition timing is already advanced? All help is appreciated and welcomed!!!!!! THANK YOU GUYS IN ADVANCE!

What are some of your other mods that would contribute to the weight gain like stainless steel exhaust and fmic. So Basically what you are saying is that my calculations are probably correct and the car is closer to 3500 pounds than 3200 pounds with me in it and a full tank of gas?

LOL Lol Lol yea I am pretty big but not Fat!!!! Drag over here is pretty primitive have a nice smooth track and all but no timing mechanism so getting a time would be near to impossible thats why i bought the g-tech. Yea but thats what I am saying 1370 kg is 3020 pounds and thats stock now with me in the car an extra 110kg (240 pounds) plus a full tank of gas say basically 20 gallons that should be like another 68 kg(150 pounds) and the weight of the stainless steel 3.5 inch exhaust 9kg (20 pounds) and the intercooler 2 kg(5 pounds) plus the little upgrades like hid lights,boost controller, extra gauges adding to about say about another 9kg(20 pounds) pounds in total. By my calculations thats 1567kg (basically 3500 pounds) or is the curb weight inclusive of people and gas?

Hey forum how are you guys? Your expert advice are needed by me again. Here is my dilemna I need the weight of my car to put into a g-tech pro in order for it to work, I weighed my car at a weigh station and the person told me it weighed 3200 pounds I find that hard to believe as when I check this forum I get the standard curb weight as 3064 now add me at 240 pounds 3.5 inch ss exhaust upgrade, front mount intercooler, and then all the extras like hid ballast, extra gauges, ss turbo manifold, and a full tank of gas I would say the car to be closer to 3500 pounds. Can anyone tell me if I my guess is correct and that weigh station is just bogus or are my calculations that off.

Whats that because if its a turbo produced strictly in Australia I won't be able to get it as I am located in the Bahamas. So if there is a garret equivalent or a place I can go online to oder it please point me in the right direction.

Hey forum thinking about changing my turbo and just wanted to know if there is a turbo out there that exist to fit my needs. Here is what I want, a turbo that fits in the stock low mount position, has the same downpipe flange pattern, will give the same response as the stock turbo, internally gated and rated for350 - 400 hp. Does anyone know of a turbo that fits those specs if so what is it? Really want the same flange pattern cus I got a downpipe for the stock turbo already and dont want to have to buy another one. Current mods if you need to know are fmic, pod with cai, 3.5" turbo back exhaust split dump, afc neo, ebc running at 12 psi and iridiums gapped down to .8mm.

Lol. Ok my bad in short I want to know if you have an adjustable fpr installed and maintain the stock fpr do you have to tee the stock fpr in, in order to raise pressure or just block it off somehow? Also does this mean that the fuel pressure cannot be adjusted below stock with the adjustable fpr since the stock regulator is still attached to the fuel rail?

Hey forum just need a question answered by people who are more experienced than me. Can fuel pressure be raised with an adjustable fpr if you maintain the stock fpr but have it blocked off from the vaccumm/boost line? Do you have to get the fuel rail adapter in order to raise fuel pressure with the adjustable fpr or just tee the stock boost/vaccumm line to the boost/ vaccumm line of the adjustable fpr? So in short the stock fpr is still attached to the fuel rail just that the boost/vaccumm line has been removed and the port for it blocked while an adjustable has been placed on the fuel rail using the vaccumm/boost line that the stock fpr used will pressure be increased if adjusted by the fpr or does the vaccumm line have to be tied into the stock regulator. Thanks in advance for all help. What am thinking is that since the stock regulator is still on the fuel rail that stock pressure will be maintained no matter what but with the adjustable attached you can raise the pressure as desired but cannot lower it from stock because of the stock regulator. Am I right for thinking this?

LOL i get you point just that I thought it would assist in getting me closer to my goal of around 220-230rwkw by increasing the pressure by about nomore than 10 psi allowing the injectors to flow a bit more. As I was reading this post about increasing fuel pressure to bypass ecu r&r. So do you think I will be able to get to around 220-230 rwkw with an AFC NEO cause you made it seem as if they were not as good as the SAFC.

Forgot 255 lph fuel pump and afc neo!!

You haven't stated your mods, so basically you are asking us how long is a piece of string.... I am running 300rwkw WITHOUT a aftermarket FPR, all I have is a Nismo 275lph pump in the tank, nismo 555cc injectors, and a powerfc controlling them. Sell the FPR, sell the AFC\SAFC or whatever you have, and buy a power FC. Sorry bout that usually do just forgot car is a 95 gtst current mods fmic, pod, 3.5" turbo back exhaust, ebc at 10psi lo and 13 hi and now the was thinkng of puttin a fpr in. My goal is to get around 200rwkw out of my basically stock car safely thats all I want that is the furthest I am going but, I want the most I can get out of it without changing engine internals and turbo just basically bolt on mods.

Ok thanks man will do.Thank you all for the quick responses and advice you gave me helped out alot.

No I wasnt thinking of setting it lower.I was just going to set it to a base line pressure of 40psi if it wasnt there already. I had the thought that if you get it back to stock or a little more than stock you should be able to get 1-3 rwkw increase. Is this correct?

WHY wouldn't you advise this? Even if its only to make sure I have standar or a lilttle more than standard fuel pressure in the fuel lines?

Nah only afc neo

Hey all just poppin in real quick to ask your opinions on this. I am installing a fuel pressure regulator and adjusting the level to 40 psi without vaccuum if it isn't there already. My question is do I need to take my car for a retune after I have done this?

OK Whew!!!! Thank you guys I just wanted to make sure I didn't get a dodgy tune guess he did know what he was doing. Thanks again for the quick response guys.

Ok I finally got my car tuned from a local fellow who people say could do it. Now as stated before I am from the Bahamas so dynos are virtually non -existent. My car is a 95 gts-t with the following mods pod filter, fmic ,3.5" turbo back exhaust split dump, ebc 12 psi, 255l/hr fuel pump, .7mm gapped plugs , stage three clutch and afc neo. Now here is the question I have for you guys I was wondering if the tune I got was any good. When I look at the settings PER RPM on the neo everything is in the negative for both the high and low throttle positions. He has the low throttle at 30% and the high throttle at 70% now he did road tune the car with a buddy of his and he hooked up a wide band o2 sensor that he has as i dont have one. When i got the car back i must say it is very lively and i can feel the difference in power i can feel alot more pull under hard acceleration when on boost. I have opened her up a few times since then and have not heard any knock or feel any missfires and ocassionaly get a pop from the exhaust now and again so that means its still a tad rich which is good at least i kno my car is not leanin out , fuel economy has increased from 250 300km city driving to 350 +km. Im just not sure if everything suppose to be in the negative like that as i have noway of checking my air fuel ratios cus i have no wide band sensor or even my hp cause dynos are hard to come by, but I can feel the diff in acceleration and see it in fuel economy. I just wanted to know from those who have piggybacks if there settings are all in the negative like that?