Daboss

98 with meth injection. So a precision 6265 bb with 35 psi should meet my horsepower goals?

WOW!!!! Thats impressive, they are both 25/30,s though. So the displacement is there to spool up a bigger turbo for high horsepower. Do you think i will be able to get to 440rwkw with a head tidy, up standard valves, upgraded springs, poncams and a built block? What turbo do you suggest for this I had a precision bb 6765 in mind plus I only want to run 35 psi of boost max.. What do you think spool will be like with the mods I listed?

Yes I did and was not ignoring your advice was seeing if anyone else had thoughts on it or had done the conversion successfully, to try and reduce the price that will be added with the solid lifter kit. If you read my re-post you would see were I mentioned that changing the pistons was not worth it for the head. Question for you, If I get the solid lifter conversion kit will I retain vct and will I now be using neo spec cams or does tomei make solid cams for a non neo with solid lifters and the star pattern cas and the non neo vct intake cam? Won't I have to change the valves to to suit the solid cams anyway? I think the only valves they have available for the solid lifters are 1mm oversized.

Thanks for the information and fast response. Sorry I didn't mention it in my earlier post but already have a built bottom end and a greddy style inlet manifold. Chasing 440rwkw as a daily and just wanted solid lifters for a bit more revs and be able to keep vct for the low end drive. How is it kept. Just replace standard lifters with the solid lifter conversion and use neo camshafts to suit? Will it be fine for a 440rwkw car? Was getting head ported and polished, but also wanted to retain vct as it will be my daily driver. I also wanted solid lifters for a bit more rev. That is why I was thinking the neo head to kill a few birds and spend less money as many of the parts I think I need are already in that head, so I figure it will be as simple as get neo head, port and polish it, bigger camshafts and bolt on neo head to my built non neo block. If the neo head is a simple bolt on with a few minor mods I can handle that but, from a response in this post sounds like I am gonna need new pistons which I am not changing as I have forged pistons and changing them for the sake of the head is not worth the effort to me and it will raise my compression ratio. I forgot to mention that I am on methanol injection if that will help with the higher compression ratio. Was thinking of the tomei 264 drop in camshafts as I read this is the biggest you can go and retain the vct with non neo head. What is the biggest cam profile you can use with neo head and retain vct? Was also thinking of oversized valves intake and exhaust to help with flow no matter which head I end up with. I am a bit weary of the oversized valves as I read they can actually reduce spool up and low end power when installed. What are your thoughts and suggestions?

Hey forum once again i call on the expert opinions of the skyline kings. You guys have been a great help so far. I have finally saved enough money to do my final performance mod and was wondering which option would be my best option. My final mod is for the head. I was wondering would it be best to mod the stock 25det head or fit the neo det head to the 25det block? I have searched this forum through and through and found nothing definitive as to what all has to be done to get the neo head to fit to the 25det block. 1) Would I have to change pistons in order to fit the neo head and does the greddy intake manifold bolt up to the neo head? If that has to be done then that is the deal breaker, modded 25det head it is. I would like to retain vct along with solid lifters. 2)If I put solid lifters into the 25det will that make me lose vct? 3)Is there a way to keep vct and put in solid lifters in a 25det? I heard the neo vct works differently than the rb25det. 4)Can the neo vct be controlled with the 25det ecu made to be switched on and off?

WOW didn't know it was so involved. Thought it was just a simple voltage to load point change. Thought I would just go to point 5 in fc edit change voltages at the rpm points and then tune the injectors to suit.

Hey forum whats up? Just need a little help from you guys, in re calibrating a ford lightning maf. I have a z32 maf presently on the car and from logs shows that it is maxed out. I am getting a lightning maf and want to know how do I go about re calibrating the pfc to use it. I have datalogit and a pfc just do not know what to do to re calibrate it for use with the new maf. Can someone please give me a step by step on how to do this?

Can't see the pic as I am to work, but I want to run a 265 35 18 on the back with as flush a fitment as I can get. I don't want any poke just sitting flush with the guard and lowered.

Hey jjman, what all will I have to do in order to get those wheels to fit in your opinion? To give you an idea with what I am working with the car has rear camber arms and coilovers front and rear. This is a r33 gtst. The rims I have in mind are 18x9 +24 or +30 in the front with a 235 40 tire and in the rear 18x10 +40 with a 10 mm spacer cause the 18x10 +22 are no longer available, with a 265 35 tire. In the front will the +24 be a better fitment and if the have another color available with the +24 in the rear will that be a better fitment? Are those tire sizez ok? Please someone help cause I am about to purchase these rims tomorrow and do not want to get them if they are too much trouble. Do not want to run ridiculous camber in the front or rear as it is a daily driver that will be doing some drag runs from time to time.

Right now I am stock. Just wanted to make sure I get the fitment right for the rims I am about to get. To let you know what they are front 18x9 +24 or +30 and rear 18x10 +40 with a 10mm spacer. How does that sound. Which offset should I go with in the front for a flush fitment no mods? I was leaning towards the +30

Wow!!!!! Thanks for the quick response. So sorry was rushing forgot to mention its a r33 gts-t. How big a spacer would you say is just to big and ya might as well get a rim with the right offset. I was thinking of putting a 10mm spacer on back. or a 5mm. Will a 5mm be enough for the rear wheel to clear the necessary parts?

Hey all just need an expert opinion on a set of rear wheels I am getting. Long story short, I waited a little to late to get a set of wheels I wanted. Now the store only has rears available in a 18x10 +40. I know this will not fit, I just wanted to know what size spacer I would have to run in the rear in order to make it sit flush with the guard? I also have two offest sizes available for the front 18x9 +24 and 18x9 +30. Which of these offsets will sit flush with the guard with no mods needed. Also, with spacer calculation say the rim is a +40 will a 5mm spacer then make it +35?

Thanks for the quick reply. you guys are the best!!!! The fronts are fine just the rears I am talking about the rears. The fronts are 235 40 18 +25 9 inch wide rim they will fit fine. Just the rears I wanted to know which offset I can run on the 10" rim to get the widest tire possible to fit with just a roll and minimal camber. What is the widest tire possible I can run on that wide a rim with those two offsets?

Hey all just have a quick question to ask. 18*10 is the rim size. Have two offset sizes to choose from and they are +40 and +22. What tire sizes can I run with each offset size with as little camber as possible and a guard roll? I want to run as wide a tire possible on the rears. Will these fit in the rear of an R33 gts-t with 275 tires? If so where will they sit using the guard as a reference? If no what will have to be done to make them fit? .

AWWWWW come on guys no help!!! Help please?????? Open to suggestions. What is the widest tire size I can run in the rear and mods would I need to make these rims fit front and rear? Looking at 18 or 19 by 9 up front and 18 or 19 by 10 in the rear. I dont mind rolling the guard and a bit of camber but if it can be avoided I would like to if not I am willing. Offset for front +36 rears +43

Hey guys need some advice been looking through this topic ALL night and still unsure of what to get. Ok I have an r33 gtst wanting 18 by 9 or 19 by 8.5 in the front and 18 or 19 by 10 in the rear. I want to run at least 265 40 tires in rear and 235 or 245 40 tires up front. Really want this height cause the roads here a kinda bad, willing to drop to a 35 in height but that is the absolute lowest I can go. Now I was wondering what offset I would need for the front and rears to make the wheels fit with as little modification as possible? I can adjust height and roll guards if I have to, but that is all I really want to do. What offset do I have to run to make these combinations work? I was thinking an offset in the low 20's would work for the front and low 30's high 20's for the rear? What do you guys suggest?

Positive. There is no wire from the loom to pin 52 on the ecu of both our series 2 rb25det's, the next option is the pin 42, I think. It is labeled as the same 1 degree as the pin 52, so that is the wire we were spliced into. Dont know if that has anything to do with whether it works or not. Would appreciate anyone who has a rush racing or aftermarket launch control/antilag installed on a series 2 working to chime in.

Tried the bee-r as well same result. Have you installed a bee-r that worked on a rb25det series 2 engine? No it's an aftermarket turbo, give me a little bit more credit thatn that. Good looking out though

It is only a three wire hook up and I checked the wiring over and over it was wired in correctly. Even tried it on the 180 degree ecu pinout instead of the 1 degree and the result was the same. Wire 52, power and ground thats it. Which rb25det do you have? I have the series two I have heard of people getting them to work, but everytime I ask which engine it seems to be the series 1. I do not know if that has anything to do with it. So was the bee-r we tried and the rush limiter.

Hey forum just need an answer to a question about the stated topic. A friend of mine has a rush racing antilag device that he cannot get to work, it is a simple three wire hook up and a few simple button presses to install, only problem is for some reason it doesn't work with his rb25det series 2 engine. Wanted to know if it doesn't work because the engine is a series 2? The signal is suppose to be attached to wire 52 on the ecu, but on series two motors the wire harness has no wires attached to pin 52, so we are forced to use pin 42 with no luck. The instructions say to install the signal wire on pin 52 which is the crank angle sensor degree 1. We then have to install on pin 42 as that is the pinout that is crank angle sensor degree 1 for the series 2 engine but when we try to set the car drops rpm and dies with a loud backfire. Same thing happens when trying to install a bee r rev limiter. I know the antilag works for sure as we installed in a friends supra and it worked liked a charm, tried it in my series 2 as well and it also did not work. Can rush racing antilag systems work with the series two rb25det?

Cause I changed the regulator and cleared as much of the fuel out the system as I could yet still could not get the car to start. With stock computer or pfc. So I figured this was my next step. It would still only bubble as if about to start but, no luck. Inspecting the exhaust ports noticed that all the exhaust valves were soaked except 6 and 4. Thats the only other step left to take. I figured they should not have been that wet as the injectors are good and they do not push that much fuel. I still can't figure out why the pressure just drops, it doesn't slowly come down it instantly falls to zero.

Update!!!!!!!!!! Ok so I did a comp test wet and dry and these are the results. Dry 150 across all cylinders and wet 170 across number 5 as that seemed to be the problematic cylinder. Done on a cold engine and pistons are forged as well as a slightly thicker headgasket I think 1.3mm triple layer. Only did the wet test on cylinder 5 as was losing light and wanted to take the head down. Took the head off and on the exhaust side looking through the exhaust ports all valves were wet with gas except number 6 and 4. These two were coated in carbon, but not wet. Number 5 was soaked on the side that meets the block and on the port side I would say number 1 was the worst. All wet up inside. What do you guys think? Running the car rich somehow stopped these valves from sealing properly therefore, the reason the car wasn't starting was that it could only run on two cylinders as only number 4 and 6 were ok?

That is no longer in the system. Took it out awhile back.

Ohhh so close!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Hey you might still be right as I said fuel came from the top of that regulator as well, only test I did was prime it with the line off and then tried to suck it with my own breath. I just might not have enough lung power to force it open. Will continue test today and update.

Damn!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Thought I found the problem, removed the vacuum line from the fuel pressure regulator and fuel gushed out, was so happy cause I figured the regulator was the prob. Figured the diaphragm was gone so it allowed fuel to go through it and come out of number five as that is the problem cylinder and the vacuum line is right in front of it. So I changed the regulator to another one I had lying around, got that installed and when priming the pump noticed that the pressure still would fall right off. Anyway thought nothing of it and started the car it bubbled like it was gonna start and then nothing, cranked it a few times and still nothing. Removed the vacuum line from the regulator and would you believe it fuel came from there as well. So decided to leave vac line unplug, clear cylinders and try again, still no luck and numbers 4,5 & 6 spark plugs always end up soaked while 1,2 & 6 are relatively dry. No fuel came from the vacuum line of the newly installed regulator when priming the pump so it guess it is good, but car will not start and fuel seems to still be getting into 5 lots of fuel is in the turbo exhaust as well. Will check tomorro if it gets there from cranking or just an effect of fuel being pushed from cylinder 5 when I am clearing it. Again my efforts have failed really thought I had it this time.. Battery died so had to cut test short will continue with compression test tomorro and also prime and crank car with the regulator vacuum line disconnected as well as fuel injectors and see if fuel still gets to any injectors.