Daboss

Just a quick question I need answered would there be any gain to putting a split pulse on this manifold. Would it still work the same?

Ok been a few days of boosting now and the afm warning has not gone off. Thanks to all for your help seems it was a faulty afm.

Nah it was the airflow meteras I did a peak hold and saw 5.1 plus when doing a sensor check the airflow value was going black and jumping around at idle from 0-5 volts. Yea I confirmed this with the handheld. With the peak hold and the sensor check. Ok will read thanks. I just read on this forum somewhere that the q45 would make less. So far seems as if the problem has been solved a switched to a spare z32 I had and so far nomore warning light. Will monitor for the next few days and keep posted.

What size turbo is this?

Yea wish I could but have no competent tuners here, had a q45 but sold it cause of the size and heard the z32 could support more. Plus it was ok before just happened this weekend was boosting fine with it before, noticed problem checked founfd a loose ground connection, reconnected it and still the same problem. Is there a way to switch to map sensor with pfc?. How do you tell if it is fake? The airflow meter is in the corner were the stock intake box use to be and the turbo is in stock position.

Since fixing the wiring at idle I am seeing around 1.3v but noticed when starting the car to move it out of the driveway this is before fixing the wiring it started with no afm voltage problems. I then did the rewire after the startup and thats when I noticed the ground wire missing and reconnected it and didnt drive it from then until this morning cause I figured I had solved the problem. Which I didn't cause coming on to boost this morning it happened again.

Reset the pfc? Don't know bout that, resetting the pfc will erase everything it will then require a retune. The pfc has a warn function for the afm and I figure it is just reaching this point, and wanted to know why, if that was possible with the setup I have and if my car is in any danger. Highest knock reading is in the 30's afr is in the high 11's to 12 on full boost. No real sign of knock and no excessive lean out so could this just be the jump in voltage at the onset of boost casue it happens when boost comes on at around 4-4500rpm and when I see it i remove my foot instantly so can not say if it is consisitent throught the rev range. On the pfc what is the afm warn volatge? Casue as I did it this morning the max voltage read on the ofc was around 4.4 -4.5v and the light flashed.

Hey forum need expert opinions from you guys. My problem is my z32 is maxing out or so it would seem. I have a rb25det series 2 with gt35r and z32 with 3inch coupler going to a 4 to 3inch reducer to the intake of the turbo. Now my problem is lately I have been noticing that my check engine light flashes everytime I get into boost, I also have a pfc and when I check readings with the pfc hand controller the only reading i see that looks like it could be a problem is the afm voltage at 4.5-5.1. I found this strange as I figured 17psi should not be enough to cause a z32 to max out like that so I went over the wiring this weekend and noticed one of the grounds had came loose in the afm wiring. So i joined the two grounds of the z32 and connected them to the ground of the afm wiring and thought problem solved. Did not drive the car from then until just now and when going into boost the same check engne light flashed when going into boost in second gear and max boost was 16.5psi. Looked at the pfc hand controller and the afm voltage was showing 4.5 volts. I never noticed this problem before and was wondering what it could be, cause as soon as I see the light I stop accelerating, so can not say for sure it is on continuosly when boosting. Does this seem normal to you guys or does afm seemd to be broken. I looked inside at the sensor wires and did not notice anything broken all seems normal. Can 16psi on a gt35r cause a z32 to max out? Oh and when it happened for the first time and I checked the pfc hc at idle the voltage was jumping around from 0-5.1 . That is what prompted me to check the wiring and noticed one of the grounds were off.

Is the headed modded in anyway?

Not willing to separate. Thanks.

PM replied to.

PM's replied to.

For sale is an apexi power fc to suit rb25det series 1 or 2. Comes with hand controller and I will wipe the sorry attempt of a tune that is on it. Had it for a few months but, there is nobody to tune it so I have to let it go. Reason for selling: cannot find a person to tune it and moved on to an aem that the local tuner is more accustomed to only thing available to tune by was the hand controller and he just didn't want to be bothered with it. Price: $1100

Exactly where is the ID tag?

Yea its the exact same turbo, thanks for your response. Was just wondering as someone was interested in purchasing it from me and asked me if it was a real gt35r so I said as far as I know and I will find out. The only pics I had were the ones from ryanrb25's post and when I showed it to him he asked for the garret stamp on the comp cover, saying it looked a little suspect. Plus the way it is mounted in the car you can't really see anything and I am not taking it off unless paid.

Hey thanks for the responses, they helped a little although I am still not 100% sure. I already installed it low mount and cant view the numbers that were mentioned in the link by paulr33. Is there any other way to tell if it is genuine or not?

Hey there forum just wanted the knowledge of more experienced people. Is the turbo pictured below a genuine garret gt35r?

Great idea man!!!!!! Will try that and see if moving the nozzle further back will help.

Hey man thanks for the reply. I have already read through those over and over again and that's my dilemma, I know the fuel here isn't worth sh%^ , it's the equivalent to the Aussie 95 ron. Even so I would have figured the alcohol/water mix I am spraying, because of the lack of methanol here, would take the octane rating up high enough for me to run more that 19 degrees timing full load turbo on full song. That's less than the stock map that the pfc comes with. That is why I was asking if my nozzle might have been a bit to close not allowing the mixture to spread enough in the piping.

Any other members have seen the nozzle placed as close as mine? What type timing should I be able to run on full boost with the piss fuel I have here?

Ok thanks, just was wondering cause I read somewhere that it should be AT LEAST three inches from the throttle body. Just thought mine was a bit to close.

Hey there forum, wanted to ask a few questions about water/meth injection. Firstly I have no methanol readily available were I live only denatured alcohol and I wanted to know if it was just as good as the methanol and why/why not? I have an injection kit that brings on the 50/50 mix of alcohol and distilled water progressively starting at 60% at 5psi and going all the way to 25psi were it hits 100%. I did it this way because I have a 550cc nozzle that I think is to big. What nozzle size do you guys recommend for a built 25 running a 35r .63 rear at 17psi, actual goal 20psi running 17 daily? Really just trying to get as far in the 400whp area that the turbo will take me at 20psi, wont be running more than that. Now for the topic of the thread, I only have 95 ron available and figured the kit would give me a wider tuning margine and degree of safety. I noticed that when full on boost from about 5500 rpm I have my timing at 19 degrees from load point 16 all the way to my redline of 7000 rpm because I got a knock of 60 somewhere in that area at like 21 degrees of timing. The 19 degrees I had to change it to is less than stock timing map that the pfc came with. I figured I would have been able to get more out of it using the injection. My nozzle is right in front of the throttle body and I was wondering if that had anything to do with it? When I say right in front I mean like maybe an inch away.

About fuel temp sensor, you just have to wire in a resisitor to that point on the z32 ecu and it will be fine. Will get the exact resistance when I get home as I can't remeber off hand.

Yea it has stopped overheating since I sorted out the timing, the base timing is set to 15 he just messed it up by retarded it to 0 by the crank angle sensor. The fumes aren't clouds and clouds of smoke its like when water just starts to boil and thats the worst it gets, at least at idle. I didn't rev it with the oil cap off to see if the cloud got whiter and more pronounced. I will get a dry comp test done as soon as possible and look for for someone to do a leak down test. Not worried that engine was built correctly as it was running fine just when the mech f*&^ed up the timing that this all started. The overheating, lack of power on boost and I also never took a look when the car was up to temp with oil cap off, or unblocked pvc, or looked at the exhaust of the catch can until this timing situation. So it could have been happening all along just didn't notice until now. I did a dry comp test after intial run in and got basically 160psi across all cylinders, will do again though and keep you guys informed.

Hey forum need some opinions real quick. My situation, just had engine rebuilt with rods, cp pistons and copper head gasket. Pistons are 8.5 comp ratio. Build was about 3000kms ago engine is already broken in, now here is my dilemna. Engine builder reset timing and ended up retarding it to 0 by my check, this was after it was already up and runing but just wasn't exactly on 15, timing was a bit off so he tried to reset it and ended up settin it to 0. This made my water temp higher than normal and the heat from the engine bay was extreme. According to my pfc the water temp was consistently around 95 when it was previously no higher than 85 no matter what temp outside was and how bad I flogged it. After I figured it might be the timing and confirmed it was I started the car removed the oil cap and when the car is warmed at idle there is smoke coming out there. It is only after the car is warmed up that the smoke is seen it is like steam from a kettle just reaching its boil, it is not thick , but it can be seen. I also have a catch can setup, one hose vents to atmo and the other is attached to the top of the rocker cover breathers that are interconnected. I have no return into the intake as I have a modded 3" metal intake pipe that only has a return hose from my bov. When connected smoke comes from the venting hose of the catch can. There is no oil in the catch can but I have not really put boost into it as yet. I have a gt35r and might have put 5-10psi into the most as I fear to see the results. My boost is set for 17psi. Pvc valve is also blocked and when I removed the plug at idle the smoke comes from there as well. Another bit of info when the car was retarded to 0 I figured it might be timing because I tried to boost it a few times and noticed the turbo was spooling but the car was going nowhere and also at night the exhaust manifold was red hot when previuosly it never was. Only problem iI am having is the the smoke out the oil cap, there is no milky stuff under the oil cap, none in radiator, no smoke out exhaust and from the lilttle boost I have pushed it to it seems to be performing well. What do you guys think that the my problem is, I assume rings, I really dont want it to be as the engine was just rebuilt?