Daboss

Dang I figured it out, the steering angle sensor that is behind the wheel is messed up. I didn't know what t was so I removed it and ended up destroying it in the process. Is there anyway to bypass it?

No didnt use a hicas specific boss kit, just a regular one. Took the wheel off and all connections didnt plug anything back up and replaced it.

Hey forum just a quick question about my power steering. I have a r33 series 1.5 with air bag in the steering wheel, yesterday I replaced the steering wheel with an aftermarket one and the steering is now really stiff. I just replaced with the standard boss kit leaving all wires disconnected. The steering really is horrible without the power steering and I wanted to know if anyone knows what I did wrong and has a solution to get the power steering back. I had my hicas removed and replaced with a delete bar a little while back , so the hicas light is on but it does not affect my power steering as it was driving fine until I replaced steering wheel yesterday.

Yea I am using the recirc fitting, just that were I am located I can not find a hose that is big enough to fit on the outside of the recirc fitting and if it is big enough it is so hard to work with and expensive that it doesn't make sense to use. So I had to find the biggest inside diameter hose that would fit inside the recirc fitting and 5/8 was the size I could find. Lol nah but my bov is on the driver side of the engine bay underneath the headlight, while of course you should know where the intake pipe is located, so instead of running an ugly black hose across the top of my engine I ran it underneath and around the engine. The piping is about 8 feet the way it had to be run. I was upgrading everything and didn't want to take a chance of the stock one leaking, plus I didn't mind the bov sound but it had a major leak coming on to boost and even some at idle with the antistall kit installed.

What size do you think will be adequate? I really don't have many options, I think I can find a hose that is a little bigger, but if it will result in the same it is just a waste of money. The size of the next hose might be closer to an inch like 6 or 7/8. Can't find any hoses over here to fit over that size fitting and be able to maneuver. The hose that does fit is extremely hard finding a route for it how big it is and hard to bend, plus it is like 10 to 12 dollars a foot and I will need about ten feet to run it properly. What is the minimum size internal diameter hose you would suggest to use?

Just did a quick measurement and the size of the recirc fitting internal diameter is 1 inch, the hose I used to plumback the size of its internal diameter is 0.63 of an inch.

Yea to me it looks pretty tiny from the initial size of the recirc fitting, but I will get a pic up and let you guys decide. Will try to get a pic up for tomorrow but as a guess the diameter of the recirculatig fitting is about 1.25 inches the hose I had to use the diameter the outlet dropped to is probably .5 inch. Yes it is a huge vacuum leak that is why I have it recirculating, It is a synapse synchronic bov and they are designed to be opened at vacuum. Will try to set the spring a bit softer. Didn't buy it like this upgraded to this.

Hey forum need a few suggestions real quick. I have a synchronic bov on my rb25det plumbed in right before the throttle and recirculated back to the intake before the turbo. My problem is on throttle release after boosting or on a quick acceleration I get flutter and thought by plumbing the bov back into the intake, I would have gotten rid of it. I find this rather strange cause the way the bov works is that it is always open at idle, once vacuum is applied to the bov it opens and when positive pressure is applied it closes and as soon as vacuum is applied again it opens, hence on throttle releases or at idle. You can look it up online to get a better understanding of it. I wanted to know if the size of the hose used to recirculate the air matters or would affect the discharge? I had to fit a smaller hose in diameter into the recirculating fitting of the bov and the flange that was welded to the intake in order to plumb the discharge back into the intake. So now the passage for the discharged air has been reduced significantly. Would this cause the turbo to flutter or it doesnt matter the diameter of the hole the discharged air has to go through, only that is has a way back to the intake? Any advice and suggestions will be greatly appreciated. Thanks.

Ok thanks for the advice guys and thank you lukas 33. Honestly I probably would have never formatted it that way. Do you possibly think the injectors are just standard ones? I am going to put the pfc back in with the 555's it was calibrated for and hopefully the miss stays away this time. I can't get it tuned cause there are no real tuners were I live. I know the pfc is the better ecu its just that with it installed the cylinders missed and I didnt want to reinstall it and have it all fudged up again. I got the new o-ring for the 555 injector that was missing its own and a new set of spark plugs Will be replacing the ecu, injectors and spark plugs in a few and see how it works out. I hope all goes well. My thoughts exactly lukas how the hell is it working so well with stock ecu? Anways I am going to replace everything I switched and see how it works out. Will keep you guys posted. Thanks once again for your help.

Lol wow forum never ceases to amaze me. Here I am thinking I have a hot topic, 5 replies and so quickly but everyone is commenting on how it is written. WOW!!!!! Anyway's here I go again Hey forum I am really puzzled as some weird issues are going on with my ride. Check my other post to get up to speed, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/We...No-t316378.html. Quick version, car was missing on cylinder 3 so I did all the test I could think of with no luck, after test conculded another cylinder now was missing. For testing purposes I removed the pfc and tried the stock ecu, to my amazement the car started all cylinders were firing and the afr's were in the high 16's to mid 17's. Let it idle for awhile nothing seemed wrong so took the car on a cruise while watching the afr's and they were pretty normal. Light to mid load the afr's were behaving normally trying to stay within the 14.7 range. On decel the car popsed, gurgled and will get a small backfire from time to time, but no black smoke and afr's seemed normal. Now here is the messed up part, the car has a q45, z32, supposed high flowed injectors, a 35r, aftermarket plenum and exhaust manifold. How the hell is this possible? How can the stock ecu start the car with the z32 and bigger injectors much less run smoothly? I even gave it a bit of a boot in second gear to see where boost started to build and to check out the afr's. Positive pressure began at 3000rpm which was to be expected and to my surprise afr's were in the 11's to 12 range at wide open throttle, this is flat footed in second gear starting from around 1500 or so rpm. Will make sure about the afr readings tomorrow after another drive. The car idles kinda lumpy but I am using old spark plugs that are a variety of heat ranges, types and one or two of them came from the cylinders that were not firing. They were black with soot and got could smell the fuel on them, but I gave them a good clean up before putting them back and made sure they were giving spark. I am buying a new set today and change them out to see if that helps with the bumpy idle. Issues I am having if you can call it that are: 1)The car stalled when decelerating with my foot on the clutch. 2)When starting the car up it idles really crappy, I have to give it a rev to clear it up and that seems to get everything cleared and flowing. The idles is a bit bumpy but great considering it is the stock ecu and the upgrades I have. What if any explanation can you guys give me? I am suspecting that the injectors are not high flowed 650's rather just a set of stock injectors. They are red with a single hole for fuel delivery. That would explain why I am not running rich. The other burning question is how can the stock ecu start and run fine with z32 installed. Abit long winded, but just wanted to give as much info as possible.

Hey forum I am really puzzled as some weird issues are going on with my ride. Can see my other post, http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/We...No-t316378.html, to get up to speed. In short had an issue car missing on cylinder 3 and seemed to stem to other cylinders. To solve this problem I removed the pfc and tried the stock ecu just as a test, to my amazement the car started all cylinders were firing and the afr's were in the high 16's to mid 17's. took the car on a cruise while watching the afr's and they were pretty normal under vacuum normal cruise load they were varying but trying to stay within the 14.7 range. On decel the car pops and gurgles and will get a small backfire from time to time but no black smoke and afr's seem normal. Now here is the messed up part the car has a q45, z32, supposed high flowed injectors to 650 they are said to be flow matched within 1.3% of each other, a 35r and aftermarket plenum with exhaust manifold. How the hell is this possible? How can the stock ecu start the car with the z32 and bigger injectors much less run smoothly? I even gave it a bit of a boot in second gear to see where boost started to build, plus check out the afr's, and positive pressure began at 3000rpm which was to be expected and to my surprise afr's were in the 11's, I think, this is flat footed in second gear starting from around 1500 or so rpm. Will make sure about the afr readings tomorrow after another drive. The car idles kinda lumpy but I am using old spark plugs that are a variety of heat ranges, types and one or two of them were the ones were the cylinders were not firing so they were black with soot and got could smell the fuel on them, gave them a good clean up before putting them back in though and made sure all were firing. Will make sure and buy a new set tomorrow and change them out to see if that helps with the bumpy idle. Besides the one time it stalled when decelerating with my foot on the clutch and when starting it up after getting petrol it drives fine, noticed at startup I might have to give it a rev to clear it up and get the juices flowing but aftert that it idles great for what suppose to be in it. What if any explanation can you guys give me? I am suspecting tht the injectors are not high flowed 650's rather just a set of stock injectors, they are red with a single hole for fuel delivery. If that explains the injectors then how can the ecu handle the z32 afm, how can it start idle and run fine with it installed?

Ok got the car to fire on all cylinders. Will be starting a new thread as what happened kinda has me puzzled. Thanks goes out to DVS32R for at least trying to help.

WOW nobody has any advice? Another thing is that the #3 cylinder never fires,I drove it home today and when doing my checks noticed it is now the #2 and 3 cylinder that is not firing. The #2 was working fine yesterday and now it is not just like yesterday it was the 6 and 3. Now the 6 fires and the #2 has gone. The #3 never comes and goes like the other 2 have and they just happened to do this between today and yesterday. The #3 was working before the huge backfire but after the starter did the seizing thing and we got it to start again the #3 has never fired since. Can timing being out a tooth cause this type of problem.

Hey forum need to ask your help with an issue I am having. I will try to be as thorough as possible in explaining the problem. Car just finished a rebuild were everything was replaced, drove car on friday everything was running well. Cut it off after reaching destination and about an hour later started her up and noticed a miss on cylinder 5. Drove it still missing on number 5 and while doing so it backfired very loudly every time I took my foot off the gas. Got to my next destination were I cut it off to check on number 5, found out that the o-ring on the injector was torn so figured that was the source of the problem also at the same time the starter went bad tried to start the car and it would begin to roll but then lock up and the entire engine would shake from it after doing that a few times with the same result decided to get another starter in the morning. Got a starter, a new set of injectors and another cas just in case and replaced ball of those items, got the car started only to get a miss on both cylinder 3 and 6. Checked for fuel and spark on both cylinders and both were getting fuel and spark. Replaced the injector loom, coilpack loom and the two suspect coilpacks with working items off another car and got nothing. Put all the original parts back in started the car again and now only number three misses. Did the checks on number 3 again and got spark plus fuel but cylinder still misses. Can any of you guys help to identify the problem. Car had nismo 555 changed them to 650's running a power fc with new super spark coilpacks. The CAS had also died but that was before this incident and had that replaced already and also replaced it again just n case this time with a known working one. So the miss went from 5 to 3 to 3 and 6 now just to 3. All help will be appreciated, thanks.

Ok put on another cas and got the car started. Issue now is with cas fully advance base timing reads 15 degrees. This was done after car warm and with tps unplugged, car also idles at 1000 rpm no matter how much adjustments is done to the throttle body or the acc screw. Have a q45 throttle body with aftermarket plenum, and using a pfc computer. Any suggestions?

When I try to start it up it just cranks over and over and over sometimes might get a little pop/backfire, but recently after trying to start I have not noticed it. Have two quick questions, I have the cas with the mitsubishi sign in the middle the plastic one and I wanted to know if when all bolted up if the plastic part in the middle supposed to spin and also when you have it disconnected with the car to on and you spin it is it supposed to fire the coils and injectors just by spining or are you suppose to apply pressure with the spin? Lastly lets say the cas managed to move and messed with the timing of the car or somehow its slipping inside the device isn't that just what the ecu uses and you should be able to get it back on point by turning the cas, or does it stuff up even base timing and you have to reset the whole thing?

Checked intercooler piping all fine, have yet to unplug afm and see what that does. Will do tomorrow and post results.

Hey there forum need expert advice and diagnosis. Took my car out for a drive today after after a major rebuild. While on my drive car hesitated when I gave it a little gas, so I backed up off the throttle let it catch itself and proceeded to give it gas again. There was another hesitation followed by a backfire, car cut off after that and would not restart. Checked all electronics and everything is getting power and receiving signal. Fuel is being delivered, injectors are firing, coilpacks also and cas is fine all have been checked. Only thing I can come up with is that timing is somehow off, car was started and ran perfectly, I took the timing belt cover off to see how the marks line up and this is what I saw. The exhaust cam lines up but the intake side is off by what looks like 1.5-2 teeth. The intake dot is below the mark on the back of the timing plate. The timing marks on the crank at that point are in between the 10 and 15 mark. Car will not roll over now when it has already been started and running. So what do you guys think it can be?

Nah no offence taken I asked the question to get the best advice for my situation. Thanks for your help and will do. Thanks will do man.

Hey there forum installed a greddy copy plenum on my r33 gts-t. Installation went ok now only prob is when I started I have an intake leak. Know this because car idles horrible and cuts off after awhile without using throttle if throttle is opened it will stay on, also when free reving the boost gauge reads negative pressure and reads zero when idle. It's reversed because at idle it suppose to read negative pressure and when free reving come to zero. Conducted a few test and finally found the intake leak, it is between the head and intake gasket found it because of seeing the spark that happens during combustion, yes actually seeing the fire it was that visible, it is a metal head gasket I am using and wanted to know if you guys think that placing some sealant between those areas gasket to runners will solve the air leak. There is no water leaking so the water jackets are straight as sealant was placed here, yes I know should have placed sealant around the runner section as well, but when you are working with stubborn people this is what happens. So would you suggest trying the sealant or just replace with stock manifold? I also have a new original intake gasket which I was thinking of placing between head and metal gasket. All opinions are welcome.

Hey there forum, need to ask another quick question found out that the wire harness I am using is from an automatic skyline and mines is a manual. Was told if I am using a manual transmission with this automatic harness I will have no ignition. Do you think that is the reason I am getting no ignition? If so what do I have to rewire in order to get ignition.

Will do.

Lol, I hear ya. The yellow foolishness good though they got stuck from just sitting up there, had emm flow tested an freed they all good now. So Any other ideas, Mr Sky, I tired a catching ride now and these sr20 guys running the streets now, "So I heard.", and skyline fellows demolishing the cars. I have it narrowed down to ignition cause when cranking I get no power aor signal at the plug that comes from the ecu. I think that part a the harness is fried.

I changed everything. Last started ok before rebuild. Did a complete rebuild. Put on new intake, new exhaust, new injectors, new computer, different harness, different turbo and throttle body. Everything else is ok by my test throttle body .4 volts at ignition, injectors have a constant hot and pulse when cranking the car, have fuel pressure all lines are installed correctly and can smell vapours when cranking didnt remove any fuel lines, but I think those fuel checks were enough. Only problem is at ignition on can't find a hot on coilpack plug from ecu. Thats why I think I have narrowed it down to ignition, and was wondering if when ignition on should you have a constant hot to one of the wires from ecu loom to coil pack loom. During sensor check on pfc got throttle voltage and 3.54 volts on wtb something.

Hey forum I am having a problem starting my car and wanted to get some other advice on it. I have an rb25det with the series two engine so no ignitor module. Mods that might affect startup are are pfc, z32 afm set in pfc, nismo 555 also set in pfc, q45 throttle body and brand new super spark coil packs. Here is the problem as I try to roll the car over it cranks but just will not start. I have power to the injectors and fuel pressure. Do not know if fuel is being delivered as I didn't remove any hoses but can smell the vapors as I try to crank. I checked the power to coil packs but got nothing. I wanted to know if at ignition on should there be a constant hot to the coil pack loom? Cause I turned the ignition to on and checked every wire coming from ecu loom to coil pack and none had voltage. I also did the check in the manual for continuity between certain ignition wiring and got nothing. So I was just wondering are there any other checks I can do to the ignition system to prove this is what is wrong?