Daboss

Can anyone confirm or deny that the 90-94 z32 twin turbo injectors will or will not fit an rb25det? Pics are in my post before last.

Ok, but will they fit the rb25det?

Here is a picture of the injectors. Will these be able to fit? Injectors.doc

Hey forum just a quick question about the topis. I wanted to know if the injectors off a 94 twin turbo vg30 can directly fit in a rb25det?

Yea coolingmist is also the kit I am using,"The Thread Starter" and I finally got it to work properly and I must say its excellent. When I got it to work properly I saw afr drop of .5 to a 1 point from my standard tune. So I was able to take out some more fuel and the car is even heaps more fun to drive. Plus I have that cushion of safety so I am more inclined to run it hard. I have an safc 2 to monitor and the highest knock reading I got from the idle reading of about 28 was 48 when I did the recall feature. So I consider that to be about a knock of 20. Now I want to try and increase my timing to get the full use out of the kit. I am still on stock turbo and injectors running about 20-22 degrees of timing at full boost of 12psi. I know it is car specific, but I was wondering what would be a decent amount of timing to increase it by? To "The Mafia" if he reads this I know you have alot of experience, or anyone with knowledge,I wanted to know how much timing should I be able to run with kit installed and a 50/50 mix. Also, if the tune has timing at 20-22 on wot what would increasing base timing do, for example if timing is at 10 on the ecu and I increase base timing by 5 degrees would that in turn increase that 10 on the ecu to 15? Also noone ever said what amount of oil to put into a 1.5 gallon kit and what kinda.

I found out that my nozzle size is 500cc/min. Ok so the afr will basically not change at all, so all I can really do is advance timing a bit. I was thinking the afr's would drop a point or at least half a point and I would be able to lean it out a bit more with the safc. Also how much oil are we talking about adding to a 1.5 gallon tank. I also want to kno what is 12 still the safe afr to run even with the injection kit installed or can I go a bit leaner?

Ok only info I got was that the injector supports 500hp. Info i have for you is that my car is running afr's of 12 to mid 12's on stock turbo at 12psi. ALL I want to know is should a 50/50 mix of meth and water bring the afr's down? As I see no change when the injection suppose to have been injecting in the system.

Hey guys I have a question to ask bout my kit. I am now running 50/50 methanol water mix and upon injection into the system I do not see a drop in afr's. Isn't that what the methanol suppose to do richen up the mixture?

Thanks guys responses were excellent and I have loads of information on the subject. What I understand is water is good but with high cooling properties. Just water will cool down the intake temps and at the same time might make fuel mix leaner which will increase afr's, were a 50/50 mix will yeild a greater octane number and definetly lower afr's. So water good but, methanol/water much better.

Hey there forum just a quick question for you, about the topic. I was wondering what the effect of just running distilled water through the injection kit would have? Would it raise the octane level or would it just lower intake temps? Would just using distilled water lower the afr's or would it just lower the intake temp?

Hmm that could be. I had or at least still have denso, coppers gapped at 0.8 heat range 6. I will be sticking with the same except moving the heat range to 7 as it is always hot here. Had the spark plugs in there for maybe a month. The two that were bad I just replaced with two old plugs I had taken out to put in the denso's the other four are still from the same stock. Will change the lot this weekend. How would I check the afm? Just swap it with a known working one and that's the only way. I have a z32 installed. Quick question bad spark plugs or the wrong heat range can cause a car to lean out? What about the fuel pressure regulator, from what I described it seems to be ok then?

Hey guys need some expert opinion again. Ok here is the deal at wot full boost my afr's are in the mid 13/14's. They use to be in the high 11's/12's, but the other day as I punched it it started to miss horrible after I went into cruise. When applying load it was fine but at cruise horrible miss, got her home to find the number 2 and 4 spark plugs were damaged. Insulators were cracked and on the number 2 the tip of the plug was gone was able to glance at the wideband and afr's were in the mid 13's/14 during that pull. Replaced the plugs miss went away but left the leaning out problem. I am using a chipped ecu on 10 psi stock turbo. Now that setup should not be able to flow enough air to make me lean out that bad. So I tried to compensate by adding fuel with the piggyback no luck as soon as full boost comes in afr's lean out. So I figured my problem has to be fueling, I clamped the return line and the fuel pressure sky rocketed depending on how tight I clamped it and stayed at that level showing me that the fuel pump is up to scratch. I let it go and the car automatically leaned out at idle, afr's in the 17/19's and didn't level out until I increased fuel pressure through the regulator. 1)What I want to know is if it supposed to do that when I release the clamp or is this a sign that the regulator is shot? I also noticed that on the fuel pressure guage attached to the regulator that when car is off the needle sits at about 8psi and with the regulator increase and the piggy back adding 15% fuel when full boost kicks in the car still has afr's in the 13's. Under cruise and light load everything is fine, but as soon as full boost is in the car leans out not as bad as before but still bad. I have walbro 255lph fuel pump with direct power rewire mod and have already established that the pump gets full voltage from the battery the pump is probably 18-24 months old. I am not running the car just allowing full boost to kick in at 3000 rpm and checking the afr at that point. 2) What do you guys think it is and also is there a way to just test the regulator without running the car at full boost?

So in short, no they won't fit?

Hey there forum just asking a quick question just as the topic states. I looked but got no definitive answers, I just want to know if an oem r33 gtr front brace will definitely fit a r33 gts-t. Got a deal on one and wanted to know if they are for sure interchangeable.

Hmmm I doubt it cause I changed the O2 sensor myself less than 10000km ago.

I had a feeling that was the case, cause when I reset the ecu the car feels and runs like a dream, but as time goes it feels less and less powerful and my engine is kinda noisy with forgies. I found the thread, Thanks. Will look into this as soon as I have a way to monitor knock myself all the time.

My bad I meant the retarding of the map due to knock. Not r&r, thanks for the correction , just getting up and haven't had my coffee as yet .

Just as the topic states, can noisey lifters enable r&r on a stock rb25det computer? I just notice that in my car sometimes it feels sluggish to drive after I have reset the computer and drove for about a week. On initial reset the cars goes like the wind and pulls excellently, but after about a week or so it just seems to lose that initial bite like the tune on it has been richened up. My lifters are noisey and I also have forged pistons, I just wanted to know if that could contribute to knock and cause the stock comp to go into the r&r maps.

Ok thanks.

Hey forum just a quick question. I wanted to know if you have a chipped z32 ecu and came across a remapped chipped for a rb20 can you use that chip in the modified z32 ecu? Since the ecu will be taking the tune from the chip, does it matter that it is a chip for a rb20 ecu?

The problem isn't a hesitation its the error 21 I can not get rid of and the problem with my turbo timer keeping the ignition on , but the car does not run it shuts off while all the lights on the dash and everything remain on for the length of the timer. I was asking if seeing 0dbtc at idle was a problem?

Ok will do. I would have done already but when I try to connect with ecu talk it says it is connected the guages don't read anything, but it reads my one fault code the 21. Weird I know but that's just my luck. As soon as I get the ecu talk working I will re-post a log, do you want a log of the car driving normally or just a log of it idling warm for about 5 minutes or so? Also when I got the 0btcd I think the car was warm cause I had just arrived home shut it off and then connected the laptop, I can not be to sure though but I will pay more attention with the next log. Thanks and be on the look out for the next post.

Here are the logs I managed to upload them. Can anyone diagnose this or do I need to record a run? Also my turbo timer has mysteriously stopped working, I had not used it for awhile do to the car being parked so I cut it off. Now when I decided to put it to use since I got the car on the road again it doesn't work, the car ignition stays on but the car does not run. Ignition stays on for the allotted time but the car refuses to remain running, can this be because of the 21 error code as well. idle_log.txt 021020091855.sLog.txt 0211200982925.sLog.txt

Hey all I just ordered and installed a consult port on my car to see if it would help me find where my error 21 is coming from. I installed the application on my laptop and everything seems to be working fine, I did the balance test and played with a few of the settings just to make sure and all is good. Turning the cylinders off one by one changes the note and when turned back on it returns to normal. When I activate the base idle adjustment it seems to get a smoother idle than when I turn it off. Neway I am straying, I did a diagnostic and came up with the 21 cleared it using the consult port with just the ignition on checked it with just ignition on and everything came back 55 but as soon as I start the car the 21 shows back up, on ignition on all is well but as soon as I crank it the 21 appears in the diagnostic. Now I did an idle log and will upload and I would appreciate someone who knows how to read it to give me a hand and tell me what it means cause I have no idea. Also I noticed at idle my timing is at 0btc and then increases with revs, is it suppose to be at zero on idle? P.S. Well for some reason I cannot attach files so If you want me to send the log just p.m. me and I will send to email or something.

Ohh yea I already did what you suggested in post #11. I wanted to know if the Mitsubishi sign in the middle of the Crank Angle Sensor is suppose to spin?. Also I did the last test in the manual today which says to check ignition pins when car is idle and at 2500 rpm, says at idle you are suppose to get approximately 0.2-0.3v which I got and at 2500 rpm you are suppose to get approximately 1 volt which I did not get I got .5 volts on all pins. Anymore insight to helping me with this problem?................................... Anyone?