mattymagoo22

What do you mean by 'lock things down' and '4th gear'? The only thing that may move after the belt is off is the one of the camshaft's, the crank won't move unless you turn it. After the belt is replaced its always good practice to turn the engine over (turn the crank twice in this case) by hand, before putting everything back on just to ensure that the marks all line up again takes 30 seconds and can save you thousands.

To undo the crank bolt, socket on bolt then turn the engine by hand to set your breaker bar on a solid part of the engine bay (chassis rail, suspension component) and grunt the engine (tap the key for about half a second) and that bolt is undone if not do it a few more times. If you want to bust your a$$ you can put car in higher gear 4th or 5th with handbrake on and that will stop the engine from spinning as well, then undo with breaker bar but that bolt is tight. After covers are off and you can see the marks to align the cam and crank gears up to, turn the engine over, again by hand, with a spanner until marks line up remove and then the replace belt. As mentioned if you mess this up you can really cost yourself some money!!!!! Proceed with caution.

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MITSUBISHI MIRAGE 2001 $3600 neg JMFMNCJ2A2U000479 4G15BL8136 XYH152 Rego till OCTOBER 2011. The Red Rocket is up for sale. The Mirage has been good to us over the past 5 years, we'll be sad to see it go! The car has around 203000ks on it and comes with 3 spare keys and 2 remotes for the key less entry. My wife has driven the car to work and back most of that time and it hasn't skipped a beat. It's got 17inch mag wheels that have seen better days (scuffed and chrome flaking off), although, the tyres are almost new on the front. New Pioneer CD palyer with AUX input and 4 6in pioneer speakers, tinted windows, factory Key-less entry, Air Conditioning, Power steering and we'll even throw in the sunshade. The Major service, timing belt and seals were done at 180000ks, the clutch was replaced at around the same time, the slave cylinder was rebuilt and rear-main seal replaced while the clutch was being done. We bought the car with 150000 ks on it and since that time the oil has been changed every 6 months. Coolant and brake fluid were replaced in January 2011 as well as a minor service. For a 10 year old car you'll find that it is in pretty good nick and one of the better examples around. Paint is in good nick and the panels are straight as an arrow! The only reason we are selling it is that we have upgraded to a bigger car to start a family, baby seats and 2 doors don't really mix. Would make a great First car for someone, very cheap to run and very reliable so grab a bargain. Test drives and inspections welcome. Selling car in as is condition. For any questions don't hesitate to call Matt 0431 687 834 Car located Toongabbie Sydney NSW.

or you could have a go at trying to replace the seal yourself? Its a weekender. Its pretty straight forward to do. I reckon it'd take you 2 hours max and cost you 20 bucks for fluid and a new seal and possibly an o-ring.

Guys I only have 2 free saturdays until next year, one of them I have to go to dentist, so is next year too far away? I can't really talk about the method I use to repair dents, I have signed a contract saying that I will not disclose work methods, sounds silly but thats why we have the edge on other companies that do PDR. If there are 2 of us working on the day I wouldn't book in anymore that 10 cars each, some cars may take 2 minutes, others could take hours all depends on the dent. Cheers Matt.

No. Not the police. They don't make mistakes....

If it was thrown out of court that means its thrown out, no recorded charge.

Well as the topic states, was just pulled over on my bike, was going too fast. Helmet off, step off bike, waiting to be told i'm going to jail.... Afternoon officer, Good afternoon, now why did we pull you over? Ahhh going too fast Thats all we wanted to hear, count to 10 out loud (RBT), ok mate I think we've shaken you up enough for one day go home. Thankyou officer Just remember, we can be anywhere at anytime! Yes sir. And that was that, a little respect goes a long way guys, remember that.

Spotted a maroon/red stagea at IGA Toongabbie Tuesday night about 7:30ish. Said g'day to me and my dog and gave him a pat(my dog ), then went into shops, I turn around and see SAU sticker before I could say anything he was gone.

Yeah Slim tried to get a day happening a while ago but the place we were going to do it fell through. I asked the other guy I work with last time and he said he'd be keen to work as well. All we need is a shaded area with not too much glare from surrounding objects and cars to work on. So yeah if you organise it would be happy to attend and show you guys what we can do. Cheers Matt.

When moving, in a W2A the air flowing through a radiator can reduce the cooling liquid to less than ambient and when not on boost the air being drawn into the engine through the intercooler also cools the liquid in the system. A2A is most cost effective, but doesn't become effective until vehicle begins to move, water to air is ready to go all the time, apart from track use as mentioned. Benefits of the W2A is shorter intake tract for better throttle response. The kits are not too much trouble to install, haven't done one myself, but my father in-law has one on his turbo diesel patrol and should be able to be done in a 5-6 hours by a competent DIYer.

Yeah thats right when engine is at normal operating temp, under light throttle and cruise conditions it with use the O2 sensor as an input(closed loop).

Yeah for sure, it would be interesting to see what causes this as I'm pretty sure that those ECU's don't learn. You don't seem to be the only one experiencing the symptom though. What are the theory's behind disconnecting the battery and the effects its meant to have? I tend to agree that it may be placebo effect, but can't really say without experiencing what you're saying. Cheers Matt.

Sorry mate got a wedding on sunday. I will try to get there to have a look this week but don't hold me to that, if it was a quick job I'd do it on the spot, but that job would take 2-3 hours at least, if its doable, so if I do it at your place you can still occupy yourself while I work otherwise i'd get you to bring it to me. All jobs I do for people on this forum will have to be done after work hours, I work for somebody and can't take time out of the hours he employs me to earn money for myself, so please try to bear with me as I work long hours and have a family that I need to spend time with also. Cheers Matt.

People idling your car is in no-way the best way to get your car up to temp, do you really think it takes 30seconds to 10 minutes to get oil pressure, NO! You have oil pressure the second that the oil light goes off on the dash (this light only comes on when the oil pressure is less than 20kpa) it may not be the same as what it reads when warm but you've got pressure. The only reason you used to warm your car up is so that the fuel coming out of the CARBY could be vaporised and allow the car to be drivable, with out doing this the car would mis-fire, cough, fart and splutter and be close to un-drivable. Manufacturers suggest that you are actually wasting fuel when idling to warm up and suggest you drive it, as with fuel injection the fuel is vaporised the minute its sprayed through the injector, hence the car is more drivable when stone cold. Frictionless coatings, closer machine tolerances and improvements in engine oils all aid in protecting your engine through warm up. It's been a while since I got to hear from an engineer about the way they tune the ECU for cold start and they were doing crazy things like running super rich like 10.7-11 (i think, maybe richer it been a long time) then bringing them out lean to warm the cat and also making the Automatic hold gears so the engine would rev harder to help get coolant temp up all while the engine was under a given temp. They are using the electrical equivalent of the old air pump used on a 202 holden motor to get past emissions during the really rich part of initial start up. The longer it takes for you engine to reach operating temp the more it wears. In an ideal world your car would never cool down and the engine life would be drastically increased, however, this isn't practical for everyone who isn't a taxi driver. I'm not saying start you car and have it bouncing off the limiter but don't putt around not allowing your engine to rev, I agree with paulr33 as soon as the temp gauge begins to move its warm enough. Cheers.

If you do this and your crankcase has no way of venting pressure the oil will be pushed past the oil seals and it will make quite a mess.

Just a quick one and no i'm not being a smart ass but check there isn't something preventing you from getting wide open throttle, like a car mat or the like? has happened before and not getting 100% throttle opening could be what you're experiencing. Good luck hope you figure it out.

I second that, if the cats internals are damaged it can move around and sometimes block the exhaust and other times allow everything to work fine.

Thats a shame, some guys have no idea that the panel is even aluminium and they ruin the job in the first couple of pushes. I did an aluminium bonnet on a BMW X5 today which was black in colour( to make the job even more difficult) you really need to take it slow when working with it. I'll contact you soon, if I don't just send me a reminder and we'll try to organise a time and i'll see what can be done. Can I ask what it is that you were trying to have repaired when it all went so horribly wrong? Cheers Matt.

No, we pay tax to the thieving Labor Government that has been ruining the state of NSW for the last 15 years, but that's just my opinion.

Absolutely. It takes a long time just to learn how to fix dents in steel. Aluminium is another kettle of fish all together. There are a lot of techs that won't attempt aluminium as it usually takes twice the time or more than that of a dent in steel, and the chance for making an irreversible mistake is much more likely as well. Aluminium will work harden a lot faster than steel so really sharp dents often aren't repairable, as the finish of the paint will be compromised or the aluminium simply won't move, so unless that panel is being painted which is called PTP (push-to-paint) the repair will have pinpricks and the area of the dent may also crack( cracked paint will also occur in sharp or tight areas in steel too). Hope that answers your question, cheers Matt.

G'day people. I have been flat out and haven't had the chance to get online in a while. At the moment i'm tied up fixing hail damaged cars for my employer. The other employee, in the company, is going on holidays for the whole of October, so this will make finding time to repair any dents you have very difficult for the next month at least. I really don't want to be doing too much work on the weekends as 70+ hours repairing dents a week gets me pretty buggered. Feel free to PM me with details of the vehicle, age, colour, location and size of dent(s). If you can send a picture as well then that is very helpful. I must stress that not all dents are repairable, however, I will do my best to explain why it isn't or why it won't be 100% and what the end result will look like. People often ask me how much to fix their dents, not many people ask about the quality of the repairs I do. There are many hacks out there that will try to repair your dents for prices starting at $30, often we get calls after people like them have attempted repairs and failed and they want us to fix it. Most of the time we can't undo what they have already done. So if you want it done right, I will get it done properly the first time. Older cars can be difficult as the paint gets brittle as the car ages. As SKIZO mentioned every dent is different, my prices start from $50 per panel and that is a special price for SAU members. Without going into too much detail I work on BMW, Porsche, Mercedes, Jaguar, Aston Martin, Volvo, Peugeot, VW, Subaru, Toyota, Honda and many more. A big thank you to SKIZO I'm really glad you are happy with the repairs I did. If I fix dents for someone with a decent camera i'll try to get some pics up, it doesn't really do justice to my work though, video is the best way to show my work but it is very time consuming and takes 2 people, too much hassle. Cheers Matt.

A lot of Dent guys won't do aluminium as it work hardens when the impact is made. I work with aluminium, however, it has its limitations and sometimes it just can't be fixed without being painted. Pity i'm in NSW aye.