mattymagoo22

latency i assume means the same as latent which is energy used that cant be measured i figure it to be related to switching on and off if it works i guess it fine. as for removing injector rail took off intake pipe and throttle body got it out make sure not to lose rail spacers and intake manifold orings

whats your point? your comparing vtec to an rb25 that advances 1 cam a few degrees........? do some more googling.

hey bob just like to point out that the reason that you need the driver side shaft is that if you used the passenger side the way the shaft twists eg the torque loading is the opposite way and it will snap the shaft nearly eveytime same for anyone swapping axles make sure they're going to turn the same way or they'll snap/shear

thats the thing they're designed to have power at low rpms and at high rpms and a turbo only helps it. its the best of both worlds with the vtec system. the variable valve timing on a vtec is far more superior to an rb

a thermostat will warm you engine up quicker and is better for you engine than none at all

if you got a pod it will make a sound.... woooop tschhhhhh depending ont he size of the cooler

if you have lowered te car then you have changed the suspension geometry and the eccentric bolts dont have enough scope to fix your problem need adjustable arms or camber kits

unless you get a triangular brace they're all doing the same thing!!!!!!!!!!!

hey mate got coil overs and ive lowered it so th wheels are in the guards. my rears tyres are killing me with about -3degrees either side. need kits i thinks. i think bushes will wear out too quick.... i ,mean the ball jonits without rubber boots on the adjustrable arms. so am looking at the camber kits

i just said that i drove an s2000 and own am r33gts-t the vtec is no match standard. christ the r33 skyline with 180kw at motor not 567kw..... is not the fastest th9ing on 4 wheels !!!!!!!!! get over it.

yeah nice . hoping that the pic and my info can add to your database of knowledge. stil need to know exctly what you need for a swap.... diff, half shafts, tailshafts and flanges for the c/v's.......? pm me or send your number and we could have a chat or whatever......

sounds like youre driving a r33 gts t with a viscous lsd. go for a 1.5 or 2 way replacement for the centre. you will be very surprised! plenty for sale in for sale.

i your diveshaft is slipping out you need a new circlip. othre than that i have no idea whats going on, am off my tits....... its real early huh..... see ya

from th esounds of it you've got a 3 way ABS system which means that it will sample the two front wheels individually and the rears together. if the pick up for the ABS was on the tail shaft try to source a normal tailshaft and them sort things out. or you could try to run the system fron just one half shft and it may still work... got to get counting steps on ABS rings. if its running of 1 ring from the tail shaft then try to hook it up to just one sensor on the diff and it may work

mate from the sounds of things youre talking to the guy that knows all of clutches. no need to try a exedy if you got the cash for a jim berry. enough said!

runs fine. the calcs ive made are right though don't know how he got +0.12

i figured the latency to be -.06 got the same 82.5% though. 528 - 584= -056 but if it runs fine no probs eh

there is nothing wrong with using grease on input shaft splines, snout where bearing runs pivot ball and on the prongs of the fork where it contacts your bearing and slave cylinder, just as long as you don't have it so that its dripping off. if you use powder I reckon it will start to squeak 6 months down the track, I could be wrong. i use castrol LMM grease and have never had a problem with noises or clutches slipping due to grease contamination. Yeah a uni joint will make life very easy. you dont need an alignment tool, there are 3 points on the pressure plate where the straps join the cover, they're at 120 degrees around like a mercades badge if you know what i mean, to the friction surface of the plate, with slight tension on the bolts for the pressure plate you can get the clutch disc as central as possible by eye, then feel at the 3 points if distance from the edge of the pressure plate to the disc is equal on all 3 points then your disc is lined up. you don't need a bearing puller it can be tapped out with a hammer and drift and put back on with a big socket or pipe that is the same size as the inside race. I take it you're not machining the flywheel, have a look for and surface cracks and bad heat spots if there is some there get it off and send it to get machined, if it looks ok then just rub it down with some emery paper

the only sorta comparison you could do is to compare an s2000 with a bog stock r33gtst as they both have aroung the same power (not torque). I drove an s2000 the other day and its like driving a car with a blocked exhaust but its cool with the vtec coming in a 6000-rpm and then bouncing it off the limiter at 9000+ :laughing-smiley-014: Both cars when stock though aren't really that fast, skyline r33 1500kg+ with fuel and driver stock as or cat back still looking at 14sec 1/4s

circlip or thin nose pliers to remove shifter loooong extension to remove top bellhousing bolts a real small bendy arm to get top starter motor bolt out... not sure if yours will be the same (mine was r33rb25) but a punch to remover old thrust bearing off and a big ass socket (i used 32mm impact) to tap new bearing on.

the silver thing with teeth on it is the ABS ring (man i hope this link works). that ring is on the half shaft, on the other side of the bolts is the rear driveshaft/ c/v axle Hope this can explain some things. http://i12.tinypic.com/48m5lwz.jpg hope noone is mad i borrowed their picture

if its the viscous type try to source a kaaz or cusco 1.5 or 2 way mechanical LSD you can get one off RMS parts for under a grand delivered to your door with oil. Otherwise try the for sale section. if your going to get one try to drive a car with one already installed you may not like the ride or noise they sometimes produce.

just finished putting in a HD exedy clutch. feels real good and holds up through 2nd and 3rd no slip. I was thinking of getting a small (20thou) step machined into the flywheel ,they're suppposed to be flat, to give it a bit more clamping pressure but ran out of time. Not sure of the clamping pressure but on installation the diaphragm spring caused the pressure plate to distort so that the bolts had to be tightened to get it to slip over the dowels..... So im guessing theres plenty there!!!! Pedal is slightly heavier but not really noticable all in all pretty happy. I had a brass clutch in another car once and it ended up wearing the flywheel out, good for the track but everyday driving it sucked!

very nice moanie. I think the reason your abs isn't working is that the half shafts on the new diff may have different ABS rings or none at all, if hes pulled the pump for the ALSD out then the wiring for the pickups will have gone too. its not a big job to pull the cluster out and remove the ALSD and slip globes.

you machine the flywheel to remove any heat spots so its got uniform friction across the disc and its also to make sure that its totally flat (and if something goes wrong with it and you didn't machine flywheel no warranty in some cases)