mattymagoo22

hey mate in the same boat. looking at a heavy duty exeady one and its aroung 380 or theres another one called a sports organic. its also from exeady but made in japan or something and its around 570 the clutch facings are of a higher friction and the linings have an anti burst construction so maybe its worth the little extra for the abuse it may cop. Cheers and let me know how it goes. Matt.

drive shafts are the rear axles. they may be different in that the half shafts may be a different size/have more less splines so the whole shaft may need to be changed. Propeller shaft is your tailshaft, if the viscous LSD is able to bolt in but is shorter than the ALSD the tailshaft may need to be swapped. When I eventually pull my finger out hopefully i can answer some questions! If anyone is reading this and knows the number of splines on a viscous LSD half shaft please let me know. Cheers Matt.

if you're bleeding a cooling system you need to have the heater on so that the coolant can flow through your heater core, and also need a funnel/anything that you can stick in the radiator where the fill point is that wont leak eg a bottle with bottom cut off taped around the threads so you can jam it in the radiator fill point. remove the 10mm bolt on plenum top up cooling system up until coolant starts to come out hole where bolt was, put bolt in about a half a turn start engine and let it idle until warm removing screw from time to time while topping up level in funnel. when top hose and bottom hose are around the same temp (bottom hose will always be colder from radiator doing its job) remove funnel put cap on and tighten bolt and keep and eye on it for next couple of days (overflow bottle level). this should ensure there is no air in the system, if in doubt take it to a shop before you kill your motor. cheers matt.

theres no reason ABS wouldn't work the rear sensors pickup off the half shafts we only want to change the housing I'll try to get under a mates and measure up to see if there much difference in mounting a whole housing and check half shafts as our shafts may fit need to count splines to confirm?!?!

hey link all gears are spinning as the gears are constant mesh and 4th gear is on the input shaft which spins the cluster shaft, but your right it is only friction that makes the wheels turn.... hope we haven't confused anybody cheers Matt.

hey mate check the clutch fork is moving/has enough travel to disengage the clutch it sounds like your hydraulics may have given out and its just a coincidence that it happened when you were giving it a hard time. hope that helps Cheers Matt.

its could be a hydraulic problem. you may have snapped the pivot ball. the clutch itself is doing its job because its gripping.

hey man, the reason your wheels are turning with the clutch engaged is because there is still a connection between your crank and the gearbox via your clutch assembly. Your gearbox is still spinning when in neutral its just that there is no gear selected. when you push the clutch padal in, the connection between the crank and gearbox is broken, hence the wheels will stop turning. Thats why when you double clutch it can make it easier to select gears because the gearbox's internals have been sped up to match the speed of the tailshaft/roadspeed. Hope this helps your query. Cheers Matt.

It may be running worse but I doubt its because of the clutch

heavy duty clutches are only different to OEM clutches( assuming its organic ) in that the clamping load is higher and the pressure plate is usually forged and not just cast like on a normal one. I'd say its probably in your head man... my car is getting slower everyday need more power eh

hi guys my puter was savaged lost my desktop background had trojans and worms (my antivirus wasn't right up to date) in svchost and another place, and I have a trojan TIBS c anyone know how to get rid of cannot get it off. Cheers Matt.

all airflow meters max at 5V there operating range is 1-5V the only difference is the resolution, and the air speed through the meter itself, that is air has a higher velocity through a 70mm pipe than a 80mm pipe for the same volume of air. Hope thats clears some things up. Cheers Matt.

I don't know about you guys but there is nothing at all wrong with the R33 box, NOTHING. This box is good for 500 -600 hp. Who knows how the cars were driven when in japan. The box does not strip gears, has dual synchros on first 3 gears. So with new synchros and a mineral oil to let the synchros bed in and a good run in period there shouldn't be a problem. IF you build half a box and not all bearings and synchros then don't expect the whole thing to last. And remember the synchros are wearing out it could be a clutch issue as well. thats my input. Cheers Matt.

if the screw is falling out of the valve and it still has spring tension on it then just trim a bit off the spring, but from the sounds of things it may not be working properly make sure the spring is in the right way and isn't catching on the threads.

hey guys top work. This is the type of thing we need to keep doing great work. I think that there is a cat that reduces the amount of NOX its called a 3- way cat, is this what you mean when you say compliance cat. Cheers Matt.

yeah thats the one I want in the picture, is it the one that you can buy from psi or jap imports thanks heaps guys. Cheers Matt.

it would be cheaper to drive to sydney and have the test done and get done what you need to to have it pass then dirve back to vic and have it checked and passed. Man that sucks about vic testing.

hi guys i saw an r33 with a lip that looked like one similar to a vl walkinshaw rear spoiler anyone help me out with what they're called and where to get on and also what they cost cheers Matt.

I have heard of this type of noise before (not from your type of clutch though) and if it happens on above normal rpm launches it is actually the friction material used in the clutch disc. However I could'nt say for sure without hearing it, could be squeaky fork/pivot points????? Hope this helps Matt.

just run a jump wire from the battery to the power wire of the pump and then open the nipple and watch for bubbles and keep filing the resorvoir....... who needs relays!!!!

yeah you should have battery voltage on one side of the injectors as the computer just grounds them to operate them. I haven't played much with the wiring so sorry I can't be much more help but sounds like youre onto something with the grey wire. Good luck Matt.

in theory its a great idea big cams with good drivabilty down low and high power potential up high but you'd be asking for trouble as adriano mention the exhaust cam controls the CAS to time your motor so could cause problems I know subaru 2.5 turbo motor has variable cam timing on all 4 cams and has the control on the insde of the cam gear it uses cam and crank sensors with the mgnetic pick up on the actual outside of the pulley so that the cam can advance or retard without affecting the sensors...... Not sure what the advance is but would be good to know, anybody know how much the cams advance on the rb25??????????????

you need to check for compression, spark and fuel. Your engine should have compression it just got built, when cranking have you got fuel pressure, if yes are your injectors pulsing you can check them using a noide light or if you don't have that use the red flashing LED from your alarm cut it off so you can solder it up again later!!! but first. to check for spark remove the intake pipe and the valley cover undo a coil, stick a screwdriver into the bottom where the spark plug would sit then rest it on the rocker cover with only the handle touching the rocker cover but also that a spark will jump from the metal shaft of the screwdriver to a metal part of the engine..... OR jsut hold onto to it.... just kidding this will hurt but you'll know its got spark. so if its got spark back to the LED. Strip the insulation back and wrap the bare wire around some pins or paper clips, now you should back probe the back of the injector plug so you don't open up the connection at the plug and cause a bad contact, but assuming you haven't done this before carefully place wire in each connection inside the plug now get some one to crank the engine and it should flash the LED if it doesn't then you have problems. if it does the last thing i can think of would be cam timing. Hope this helps Cheers Matt. P.s you don't have a kill switch do you.

whe you get your car checked by the epa they have to use the decibelmeter 1 meter back on a 45 degree angle half a meter off the ground. So when you get your car tested rev the engine slowly (they'll test it at idle and at 65% of maximum engine revs I think) bring them up to the specified limit and then let it down slowly as this will make your exhaust sound quieter (jam your foot on and then let it straight off) every little bit counts. I've also heard that putting on a droopy tip on your exhaust can also knock off 3-4db, and due to the nature and position of the test and meter I'd believe it as it would have to bounce the sound off the ground up into the meter rather than coming straight out at it. Hope this helps Cheers matt

yeah sweet sounds good, I ahd a look on nissan fast at the diff for my chassis number and thats how i gathered that it worked the way it did. hopefully shimming up the gap it will hold more pressure on the clutch discs and lock very well, I've also heard that when doing a long burnout with a properly working system after 25-30 seconds the car will stop the motor from pumping to save it from over heating and flash one of the lights the slip i think so see how she goes eh.