mattymagoo22

there are two nipples on the system one on the pump and one down on the diff so you could still have air in the system i think i said that in my long write up so you might have missed it.

hey man whore I reckon if we bled yours at the nipple on the diff it might engage a bit harder....

fitted mags to GF's car and it had a vibe at high speeds (no jokes please ) fitted hub rings vibe gone.

is this a pull type clutch if so you need to diconnect the fork from the release bearing

there are no cones or cams to induce the clutches into a friction state the locking on this diff relies solely on the hydraluic pressure applied on its actuators like in an auto tranny. It is mechanical but it is not mechanically actuated, it is hydraulicly actuated so you can't really do much but shim it so that it has less area to move till it gets friction. Yeah man in syd will PM you. Cheers Matt.

leakdown test is the best test to do. Remove the sparkplugs, remove the intake and oil cap do your test. if its intake valves and there is reasonable leakage you'll hear/feel it coming out the intake, same for exhaust if its piston/rings you'll hear/feel it coming out the oil cap. just make sure that each cylinder is firing TDC (top dead centre). Its a good idea to turn the motor over a few times once spark plugs are removed just incase theres any foreign matter between the valve and the seat which will give a false reading.

The rio thats removed when you fit a front mount to a S1 aint going to stop any pole at any speed, and don't you take your car to get engineered so that they can assess if its safe not how it "LOOKS" and usually a neat job is done right hence its being passed. And your mates insurance could have been knocked back for any reason tires bald, not informing company of mods and at 70ks if they could tell that the rio was missing amongst all the carnage then I salute them. Cheers Matt.

The intake cam is the only cam that is variable on the RB25 and it has an oil control solenoid that operates the advance/retard if you look at your motor you can see it at the front of the motor on the head with a black and brown plug, this is what swithces the control solenoid at <4500 rpm. the other half of this system is in the actual pully itself. and the inlet and exhaust pulleys are different for that reason. I think your looking at the Cam Angle Sensor. Cheers Matt.

it says how many cc's above and the tolerances would be pretty close.

it looks like its a pretty common bush that I've seen on a couple of different manual gearboxs mitsu toyota suzuki. Have you tried a bearing place, look up yellow pages under bearings and bushes and ring around most bearing places sell everything from seals to bolts, bearings gaskets bushes etc etc If that fails a gearbox specialist may have one lying around. From memory that bush should sort of clip on eg place it on a sturdy surface put shifter on it then push down firmly, don't think you need to cut it, although I've never fit a short shifter before so you may be right Hope this helps guys Cheers Matt.

yeah not a bad idea. I still haven't got mine to fuction as it should not that I know how it should function (how well, how quick) I've manually run the pump and bled the system still no workies. when I drained my diff oil there was no trace of any hydraulic oil in it so the actuators didn't appear to be leaking. I'm keen to pull it down and check it out, even though the electircs don't work I'd just set up a switch to operate the pump, but itS my daily driver... (read lazy so and so) and at the end of the day if I got a Kaaz 1.5 way or similar and got rid of the pump lines resovoir along with my hicas theres probably 50 kgs to be saved there and not a hint of single wheeling (yes please). But whos to say that these diffs dont lock and stay locked solid. DOES ANYBODY OUT THERE HAVE A WORKING A-LSD SYSTEM???????? IF YOU DO DOES IT WORK WELL? Cheers Matt.

no need to pull apart to know how it works, there are clutches and hudraulic actuators that are driven by the pump that lock the diff (or let it open wheel). there ain't much to the mechanical side of things its the electrical side as there aren't any wiring diagrams readily available. Cheers Matt.

if you push the clutch pedal in and the noise goes away then its the gear box bearings that are noisy NOT the throwout bearing for the clutch. If you push the pedal down and the nosie happens thats when its the throwout bearing. When you have the engine running clutch out and box in neutral the gearbox is still spinning its just that no gear is selected. When the pedal is pushed in the clutch disengages and then there is no drive btween the engine and the gearbox will then be stationary, hence the noise going away. Hope this clears things up.

no metal shvings doesn't mean your diff isn't shagged. cltuchs are made out of friction material. I think that the main prob is clutches and air in the system (hydraulic). is attessa lazy as this diff is the same sort of fuction as the AWD system on GTR's.

don't pull out yet man the shims may work, it has to be a clutch type LSD if it requires LSD oil so shimming it up may work!!!! so when you've got it pulled out let me know how it goes because if it works the same system that the attessa for 4wds then it should do a good job of locking the diff. Your mate should be abble to apply pressure to the actuators and see if that works you may just need to bleed your system. you should be able to check it on the bench. If you do find an aftermarket diff (KAZZ CUSCO) that will fit in I'm thinking that they are the same size housing and everything I want one too but as i said before they may differ in dimensions. 2-way diffs are nowhere near as smooth as the car is now and its "FUN" in the wet thats the only problem just gotta be careful when it rains, when on decel it will kick out/spin.

when they tune they use a wideband O2 sensor to check AFR's they stick it in the tailpipe. O2 sensors can be cleaned (don't flame me) if they have junk on the outside of them( mud from 4wd etc) you can clean it off as all the sensor does is compare the air in the exhaust to the air on the outside. Most of the time on a skyline (R33's) they're beyond salvage in my opinion mostly due to common misfire problem. It should sweep between .1 and around .8V less then that and it may be getting tired. At idle its running open loop ( pre determined map from ecu) opposed to closed loop (highway driving or holding the engine at 2000rpm). Hope this helps Cheers Matt.

if you have a look in cubes avtar at the 30 guide it tells you the comp ratios for the diff heads with bigger bottom end more exhaust gas spools turbo easier boost to your hearts content

the exhaust on 2j is on the other side of the engine bay could foul steering.

let me know how long the button clutches last with everday driving. they grip very well but I found that it wore my flywheel out as well as the disc but mostly the flywheel. I all for brass/ceramic friction materials but not for everyday driving. I'll stick to HD organic or twin plate, but thats only my opinion they get better everyday with there designs. a good way to tell if your clutch is slipping is to get on the high/freeway at about 100ks in 4th or 5th, moderately warm and keep the throttle flat so the cars under full load then fan/feather/kick the clutch ( quickly tap it down past friction point then release) and if your revs go up( they will a little but only due to the clutch being pushed in) and with the clutch pedal all the way out continue to rise then yeah its on the way out, or take it to a workshop but it sucks to not know exactly what people mean, its good to experience it for yourself so that your learn.

hey man same deal in my car. the a-lsd light has never come on the slip light does though when on IGN reds. I jacked my car up and and choked the N/S/R (passenger rear) with a bit of wood between the tyre and the ground. before you do this make sure you wont hit something or someone if the car lurches forward, i then started the car and slowly eased off the clutch in 1st gear. it spat the wood out no probs. I did the same for the drivers rear and the other wheel just spun freely and the wood stayed put. Now I assume (have been unable to find wiring diagrams or any info on how the system works from nissan and not oldmate nowitall) that the system uses the ABS sensor to detect wheel slip and seeing as my A-LSD light nver worked I though it may be electrical that was letting me down, so I manually operated the pump with the wood still under the wheel ( I had switched the car off thn on again to clear the ABS light) and the pump running which should have locked the centre of the diff (yes it is hydrulically actuated by feeding oil pressure into to actuators either side of the diff housing) but the wheel spun freely so it was at that stage I bled the system (one nipple on the pump and one on the pass side on top of side plate on diff) to make sure there were no airlocks in the system, you're supposed to use a gen nissan oil that is yellow ,z something or other, in colour, i just used an equivalent oil) still no luck. Then I changed the diff oil (inside the diff) to an oil that was for LSD's and now its a schizophrenic limo (duals up 1 minute then single wheels) I changed the oil at a different time so when i was testing with the car jacked up this change wasn't made, I only found that it limo'd up when doing burnouts more often than before, it still limo'd on static burnouts but try to rip helis or get some good drift going and it packs it in. so I assume that someone may have put an incorrect oil in it at some stage even though it says use LSD oil (that or it had its ass thrashed back home) and the clutches inside have worn out. I have heard someone with the same problem had there diff pulled out and checked and the diff guys said it all looked ok. the only thing I haven't done is check the line pressure to the actuators on the sides of the diff I was thinking on manually applying pressure to them but at this point I just was fed up with it and am trying to track down a mech LSD for it... the saga continues. Turns out it IS the same diff as the R33 GTR V spec, not the 2-way mech LSD ,but the shitty Active LSD fitted to the V-specs, and the tomeis, and KAAZ's don't have a part listing for this particular diff. Sooooo, If there is anyone who is an import diff expert I'd like to know if the diff that fits a normal R33 vicous would fit into this housing withou needing any mods as I'm haven't done the research and can't understand nismo part guides( ... read don't bother looking) pro, GT pro 240sx so on so forth. I just want a good limo. I was getting close to measuring up a mates with the normal viscous and just buying one of them with the limo in it from jap land and swapping the whole unit but then I heard something about half shafts being different..... I'm rambling So yeah, not much fun. But one day I'll get my act together and get a diff as I'm over trying to fix mine. If you happen to get yours going PM me and let me know the details all the best mate. Cheers Matt.

oh darn. sorry to hear man. You did a good job too, blown into an oil gallery its like caramel huh. No good. But now you have an excuse.... just got to get the funds...... eh. Cheers Matt.

I'll second that but I don't know for sure, I thought you could only use the Twin Turbo AFM's as the resoloution on them is different to the N/A units, only what I read not 100% sure.

this is actually true, its done on heavy machinery/ diesel engines that idle for long periods of time so the rings fail to give a good seal on the cylinder liners, so they rev the engine up and let it draw in AJAX cleaning power and it acts as an abrasive which in turn re-hones the bores giving it an engine rebuild in a can so to speak.

Hey man, don't mean to question you but are you sure that your head gasket is actually blown, if so can you tell me how you came to the conclusion? If you didn't bleed the system and you took it for a drive and your gauge went way up you may have done the head gasket but it still may be ok. let me know. Cheers Matt.

good to hear mate