mattymagoo22

i don't like to touch heater hoses as it usually ends up cracking the heater core or making a hose leak that results in cracking the heater core when trying to stop/fix it. but hey 6 of 1....eh. Cheers Matt.

i think he means the feed to the turbo and yeah it isn,t fun took me a while to get it on and i had every angle long nose pliers that exist, lots of swearing to get the hose on and then the clamp cause it sorta catches ont eh bend where it goes round the back of the block. good luck. Cheers matt.

i second that, you have a huge air leak somewhere try to listen for it or if its suss spray some water from a spray botle where you think it might be if the mist gets sucked into the engine the motor may run differently or stall. hope this helps. P.s use a spray bottle and not a garden hose.... kidding Cheers matt

is it blowing the fuse or melting the fuse? Popping the fuse means its a short but it sounds like yours is pulling too much juice and melting it! Maybe try re-wiring it otherwise yeah you might need a new fan i haven't really helped much huh. Cheers Matt.

i had a problem with my pipe being pulled of the back of the AFM on my old R31, i had a broken engine engine mount causing the motor to move too much and pull the hose off so I'd check that too. Cheers Matt.

yeah very interesting thread, my foreman told me about this as they've been doing it to WRX's for ages but they were using a CNC machine to open up the holes in the pintle cap. they said the hardest thing was getting the flow rates the same but using the CNC made it alot easier, but the price was and is about as much if not more than a new set of 555 etc. each to there own.

side feed with purple tops out of R33 skyline and s15 AUTO are 370cc, with maroon tops out of S15 MANUAL 448cc and the JDM are 480cc from what I've heard as i'm going to put these injectors in my R33 (maroon tops) before I do I will get them flow tested and then will confirm there flow at a given fuel pressure. I've read here and there and everywhere and everybody has a different opinion, so I guess we'll find out once and for all. Tuners out there should know if they're tuning R33's with this upgrade as they're a pretty popular upgrade. Cheers matt

not sure about the conversions from psi to inches of mercury i don't go off the gauge on my dash if thats what your using, I'm too used to the old measure. if youre going to drive it keep an eye on the oil level and baby it, that means NO BOOSTING! And cubes yeah about the AFRs I thought that they weren't too bad I didn't think they were dangerous but its good to get some input on what is whats borderline and what dangerous from peoples experience Cheers Matt.

yeah thats the spot i was talking about and I'm pretty sure its 1/8th BSP pipe thread, there are pyro sensors that will screw in no probs. (don't ask me which but I've seen em and the turbo I bought had one in it but was not sold with the turbo) the closer to the exhaust valve the better. combustion temps 750oC and up, tail pipe 100oC maybe , the heats got to go somewhere, just my opinion. It is in no way difficult to tap a thread in the spot pointed out on the above photo( it may already be there just has a plug in it), or in the collector of your standard cast manifold, and when done properly the risk of metal filings 'damaging' the turbine is far from high, however I wouldn't recommend it for the mechanically inept as your concerns may well be realised if done incorrectly. cheers Matt.

The so called 'idiot' light comes on at only 20kpa or less, usually when its too late if its even working in the first place in no way should you rely on that to check the oil pressure, only to tell you your screwed! when the engine is at operating temp (oil is warmed) it should have at least 8-10 psi and as the revs come up a good rule of thumb is 10psi per 1000rpm I'm not sure of factory specs but if its less than that i'd be worried. On the other hand how gummed up is your motor? is your relief valve in the oil pump is it jammed causing oil pressure to go sky high??? You shouldn't trust the factory gauge in the dash. i can't see that those AFR are bad on such a mild engine (150rwkw) but like you said if its stock they usually run alot richer than that. Just outta curiosity what do you read those AFRs to be cubes? Main thing get it checked (oil pressure) any workshop can check it you don't have to go to a big name shop just to have it checked it may be the best 20-30 dollars you spend! cheers matt.

If you can source one get an oil pressure gauge hooked up to your engine, if you can't take it to a workshop that can and have you oil pressure checked!!!!!!!! when was the last time the oil was changed, when the oil gets contaminated and needs a change you can often smell the fumes you're describing. If it blew the dipstick out then there has been excess pressure in you crankcase and maybe some leaking seals which can cause even more problems. Man get it checked sooner rather than later and hopefully save your self some cash. cheers Matt.

yeah the one in the cat is after the matrix and its called an after cat temp sensor as explained above to let you know theres a problem. temps at exhaust manifold upwards of 750oC at the cat around 300oC. EPA can measure temps before and after cat matrix to tell if its still intact. I really think the best spot is before the turbo. That doesn't mean that you have to weld anything, drill a hole in the turbine housing tap a thread into it, its cast there won't be a problem, just use grease to catch the swarf ( some thread repair guys have tiny vacuums....) Matt

HI guys interesting thread. The paint that radiator places use is a matt black. The reason they use the matt paint is because your intercooler, radiator condensor etc etc are all cooled by the air that flows through them, matt finish has (when viewed closely) a rippled/bumpy (can't think of better words) finish which in turn creates more surface area (when compared to gloss) which in turn futher aids cooling of the given substance. Black, however, attracts the heat where as White deflects it. If you are going to have a front mount you want want the majority of the heat exchanger seeing as much cool air as it can, its no use having a front mount thats obscured by bumper, number plate etc etc so if you're a cop and see a gaping hole in the front of the car and you know what you're talking about its going to be obvious that its there, but I will agree that a black one is harder to see. I installed my front mount with a fly screen covering it to prevent bugs and road matter from clogging the fins. Its very visable, I'd like stealth but can't be assed doing all that work. For show or For go i guess. I guess the only way to find out which is best is to do some testing and I bet many people (myself included) actually measure the before and after effect there new cooler has on intake charge temp! So really to find out exactly whats best we all know what needs to be done, but i'm lazy so I'll let someone else do it cheers people In the words of Forrest Gump... "thats all I have to say about that".

hi guys i'm still trying to figure the best spot as well, but i really think that your reason for having the exhaust temp sensor is the determining factor i.e is it there just to keep an eye on things, are you checking individual cylinder temps (sensor in every exhaust outlet in your manifold) are you looking to run leaner than 14.7:1 and want to keep your exhaust valves intact? my turbo had a 1/8 bsp fitting (from memory) just after the flanges from manifold to turbo and I think thats a pretty good spot as your can get an average idea of what you cylinder temps are and the heat that your turbo is copping? My thoughts on the matter, cheers Matt.

thanks for your input very much appriciated. I'll probably go the datalogit as this was has the input for other sensors and its usb cheers guys.

it sounds like a collapsed lifter and most probably is. How many k's on engine, whats your oil pressure doing and when did the noise start? is it louder/quieter whn engine is hot/cold

just wondering (again) at which cylinder/lobe did the cam snap/shear?

did the cams snap at the same point both times?

from most of the stuff i've seen most people with Z32 max it out around 260rwkw and the q45 at around 300rwkw (only what Ive seen and read ) so it sounds like having power goals higher than that, you may need to switch to engine management that doesn't use an air flow meter. Having an engine with that much power more than likely means that you.ve already thrown lots of money at it (if its going to last more than 2 weeks) so maybe you'll have to bite the bullet? my 2 bob.

thanks mate. The program i'm looking at states that it is all in english and in some of the screens he puts in his ad show it all in english....? see what happens thanks again Matt.

hi guys this question has probably been answered but i rarely have the time to search through it all. I'm going to purchase software for tuning power fc but i'm concerned about the kits with the serial connection to the laptop as mine is usb. I know you can buy adaptors, but has anyone or is anyone using them and have they had any problems with the converters and they're communication between the ecu and laptop??? which program would people out there prefer, I know that the datalogit comes in usb but is one better than the other (genuine apexi i would assume to be better). The version of the apexi product is all english is this true as i've heard that its all in jap? thanks for any feedback Cheers matt.

grab a mate and go for a drive and see what reading in Volts your getting for the AFM when the problem happens and let us know what that value is, otherwise i'd check the dwell time as i've heard about that problem before good luck

you don't have a slight blockage in your exaust???? My mates car's cat converter matrix broke away from the housing and sometimes it would turn sideways in exhaust and block flow of exhaust and other times when driven it would be in correct postion and flow as meant to, we also found parts of it in the rear muffler too just an idea.

are you getting a lot of black smoke out of the exhasut? Did you go through the half hour idle set up? oldmate above has the best idea drive there stock, drive home happy!

is there anything loose on or around the engine that could be vibrating causing the knock sensor to pick it up??? sounds like a bit of a head scratcher man! Have you checked your spark plugs? could they be fouled??? What sort of exhaust temps is it running?? Good luck