mattymagoo22

if you monitor the knock when driving anything over around 40 is considered bad.

stick your head under the bonnet and check that when the clutch pedal is pushed the slave cylinder is pushing the clutch fork, it is on the drivers side, i think, attached to the gearbox. This does not at all sound like a problem with the clutch assembly itself but more to do with the hydraulics that operate it. If you have to turn the car off to get it into gear then the clutch is not releasing. The only other thing I could think of is that one of the damper springs in the disc has come out and is preventing the pressure plate from unclamping the clutch disc.

Hi guys I'm after a pass side electric mirror doesn't matter what colour I need the guts out of it mine has pooed itself. Cheers.

So you've bought yourself a skyline (R33 GTS-T) and you've no idea how many kilometers its got on it, its genarally a good idea to change the timing belt as if it snaps worst case scenario new engine!!! First off this job probably take 1.5 - 2 hours depending on your skill level (add another 2 hours if you are changing water pump cam and crank seals). What you need: Tools- socket set, 8 10 12 14 mm spanners, 27mm socket and breaker bar, palm sized mirror (mums will do) allen/hex keys, screw drivers, some sand paper and a razor blade (cleaning gasket surfaces), a lead light and a hammer. Parts- I used genuine belt as aftermarket one I tried was noisy( tension was fine) crank seal has to be a genuine no aftermarket listing cam seals and waterpump I went aftermarket. Timing belt- #13028 5L327 Crank seal- #13510 10Y10 Cam seals- #G00084 non gen Be careful with the water pump as one of the bolt holes (10mm) on the top may not line up if its the wrong pump. Coolant- whatever tickles your fancy (some might recommend gen stuff). Lube- Vasoline, carby cleaner, GP grease. Okay lets get started. 1. Start by listening around the timing belt area to how the engine sounds give it a few revs and take note of certain noises. Jack to car up onto stands so you can get to the under carrage. Remove splash gaurd to gain access to A/C belt tesioner (and coolant drain if changing waterpump its on the passenger side of the radiator large phillips). 2. Start by loosening the 4 10mm nuts that hold the fan to the waterpump pulley then loosen the alternator belt off (adjustment 12mm on drivers side off motor) then you can completely remove the fan (it may take some prying I tapped between it and the waterpump pulley turning it each time and it will come away).

hey there. It doesn't matter what gear you're in the main and counter shafts are always turning. I'd be more inclined to say that its the needle rollers under a certain gear. The fact that the sound isn't there in 4th could point to a spigot bearing or the needles where the input shaft mates upto the main shaft. either way you need to have the box pulled out and looked at by a professional. Cost price or there abouts for 1st 2nd and 3rd gear synchros, springs and keys was around $300 from nissan when I was considering doing my box, bearings can be had from any bearing place in the phone book so long as you provide a sample(if you leave the rubber seals in when installed they'll last longer than the factory ones). If you need your car on the road then you're going to have to fork out some dosh. I keep hearing about all these noisy R33 boxes and how cruching gears is normal.... well its not they're worn out and need to be recoed or replaced! cheers.

i don't mean to be rude but ive just read 4 pages of nonsense. There are only a few variables that make the difference between a standard and heavy duty clutch kit! In a heavy duty clutch kit the pressure plate (actual steel part that clamps the clutch disc) is made, usually, from forged steel rather than being cast like in a standard pressure plate so there is a less likely chance of it cracking then exploding through your floor under high rpm clutch dumps. The clamping pressure, in a HD pressure plate the clamping load is usually increased, this is done by changing the pivot/fulcrum point of the diaphragm spring, which in turn increases the effort needed to push the clutch pedal to the floor, but makes it harder for the clutch disc to slip under high load. The clutch disc, there are many different types of friction materials that can be used, standard- organic HD can be organic or brass/ceramic/carbon etc. These last 3 i've mentioned are not usually street friendly, that is are harsh to engage and if slipped like an organic type disc will wear out not only the disc itself but the flywheel and pressure plates too VERY QUICKLY when compared to a standard organic discs service life. The springs in the HD clutch disc, the springs that absorb torsional vibrations (caused when a given cylinder fires) can be a uprated or in solid centre type discs not even be there. The way that the friction material is attached to the hub flange, most standard clutch plates have cushion springs for smooth engagement on a HD disc these can be done away with as well, sometimes just being glued/riveted to a flat piece of steel. Then the number of discs that might be used twin/ triple etc the more disc the greater the friction area the more gripping instead of slipping. Centifugal type clutches, the higher the RPM the greater the clamping force. Dry clutches, like in skylines and most cars can only take so much slipping, they aren't meant to be ridden excessively, its just like your brakes, standard ones are ok on the street but take it to the track and there will be lots of smoke, smells and not much braking done(usually). A wet type clutch used in most bikes and automatic transmissions can be slipped frequently and not have any problems at all due to the cooling and lubrication of the oil/fluid used. I guess what i'm saying is 99% of the time it comes down to the driver of the car and the way that its driven that will determine how long and well a given clutch will work, and remember the clutch in an OEM is the weakest link, its meant slip when abused to save gearboxs, diffs and driveshafts..... Hope this answers any questions that some of you might have. Cheers.

it sounds like hitting 2 hammers together or rattling around some washers in a tin can tink a tink tink tink.... something like that man.... makes me quiver. good luck

yeah jacking the front of the engine up a little to tilt it back and also turning the engine over by hand/spanner/belts etc to get the splines on the input shaft to slot into the clutch disc. hope this helps someone.

if your car is pinging/knocking its not good. Its something you should get checked out man. the human ear cannot hear about the first 10% of the sound that is made so if you can hear it over the exhaust pod than its pretty bad. If you got a Power FC I think there's a function where you can make it flash the engine light when its pinging/knocking???? Good luck man.

zappn is right. The fuel in your tank acts to cool the pump, had and lpg car come in the other day on a tilt tray ran out of fuel so drove on lpg, this system only cut injectors and not pump..... you should have seen this thing looked like a garbage bin that had been set on fire!!!!! I didn't even know that R33's had fuel lights, is this on every car e.g 32 33 34 GTS-T GTR??? As for the junk at the bottom of the tank, every time you park your car for a prolonged period time all the junk would settle, at the bottom, so when you start it all the junk is on the bottom where the fuel pick up is so theoretically it should be sucked up every time the car is started...!! so I tend to disagree with that train of thought, if it can get through the pump, one way valve, and filter its gotta be pretty small so it should go through the injector, these days injectors rarely require cleaning anyways not for at least 100-150K even then they still flow and spray pretty well specially if you run quality fuel. thats my 2c worth.

cheers thanks a heap.

yeah the test with the meter at the exhaust was a decibel check. the fines you talk of $22 000 and so on are true, but your everyday joe blow in his/her skyline with no matrix left in converter would receive only a small fine, if tested and caught, and by the way this is for any emission reducing device eg cat converter, carbon canister, pcv etc etc.... These fines are mainly for mechanics and their company's who knowingly carry out such mods, can and have been fined $60 000 and $10 000 per day until problem was rectified, but again this was big business court etc etc. If you're unlucky/stupid enough that you attract attention and are escorted to an EPA check station your car will get the works (usually) noise test, height, and all the rest of it, and as for your 'I did not know/it was like that when I bought it' ignorance is no excuse when it comes to the law (except if you got$$$$) but on the other hand an engine in bad tune can destroy the converter ( but it usually leaves traces/clumps of it in your rear muffler). Just some food for thought, if any of you are keen on motorcycles you will see that of late a lot of manufacturers are starting to incorporate cats into bike systems due to stringent euro emissions laws, my tafe teacher who has many friends in the trade knows motorcycle mechanics who seem to have a higher instance of lung cancer among them due to their breathing in of the NOx gases produced by the bikes due to them not having a cat. Don't know about you guys but I breath in exhaust all day everyday in my workshop and that scares me.

hi guys, Iam hoping to get a 1.5 way kaaz unit, where could I buy 1 in NSW Sydney area, any help would be great.

actually I haven't checked if it the standard ecu..........

yeah man all factory ECU I'm going to check that the globe isn't blown..... one day. I'd really love to get this thing working but I'm seriously thinking about getting an aftermarket unit single spinning is driving me nuts. I'm a bit worried that the problem may be bigger than I think. The slip light should come on regardless whether the A-LSD does as it comes on at startup... which may mean that the system thinks its working but actually isn't so it could be that the internal clutches are kaput or it could just be that it wants to wreck my brain grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr!!!!!!!!! IF ANYONE IS READING THIS AND HAS OR KNOWS SOMEONE WITH SERVICE MANUAL FOR R33 GTR THAT CONTAINS PAGES FOR FINAL DRIVE ACTIVE LSD SYSTEM PLEASE LET US KNOW thanks for getting back to me man cheers.

hey man Sounds like youre having a bit of trouble. I'm not sure if you have a standard height pressure plate but on mine(completely stock) I get about 20-25mm travel at the slave cylinder and thats about all any single plate clutch should have. You said that you thought your clutch wasn't fully realeasing meaing that there could have still been pressure in the line slighty dis-engaging the clutch. By backing off the pushrod you would take the pressure off the assembly. My clutch picks up about (by feel) 20-30mm off the floor and is fully engaged soon after. I've got about 25-35mm freeplay. If your having troubles still I'd go back to the place that installed it and ask for some help man. all the best.

sounds like you have a brass or ceramic type clutch disc....? maybe? these are great if you are driving the car under race type conditions but in my experience aren't intended for everyday stop start driving. usually if these things are slipping then the damage is already done. I had one and it actually wore the pressure plate and flywheel out which created too much clearance, not enough clamping force and it only can get worse from there. Sounds like your pedal height was too high which someone metioned before and could have caused the problem. Attached to your clutch pedal about 3/4 of the way up, under drivers side dash, is a pushrod that goes through to the clutch master cyl, there is a locking nut which prevents the pedal height changing. loosen this nut and wind the pushrod ANTI-CLOCKWISE a turn or so, don't lock the nut up just yet, and then give it a try and adjust more as required until it feels right for you. This should give you more freeplay and hopefully you clutch will be ok. hope everything goes well mate.

hey paul am in the same boat as you. As far as i can see the fluid in the resorvoir is similar to atf but its nissan spec and it is yellow when new. The diff oil needs an Lsd oil as it is the same as a mech lsd (clutchs etc) only the pump controls how much preload is applied to the sidegears which gives the Lsd effect. the 2 hydraulic actuators sit on each side of the diff. I'm tearing my hair out trying to get this system working as it should be a really good unit nice and strong too! the system behaves like when a mech LSD is worn out by open wheeling, particularly the drivers side wheel. Mine will pull dual wheel burnouts but when you keep going it ends up slipping down the road grrrrrrr! Im close to just swapping over for a nice tight mech LSD but I'll keep you updated. Does your a-LSD light come on with the car turned to on but not started? only my slip light comes on and ive never had any of them come on when I've been driving. cheers.

LPG can be a good thing or a bad thing. 20 years ago octane ratings were around the 110 mark, now todays figures around the 94, which is pretty disappointing. The alloy head on the rb series motors would mean that the valve seats are already hardened, but its still a good idea to run a lubrication system to prevent VSR (Valve Seat Recession) and its a good idea if you've got dual fuel to run 2 tanks gas to 1 tank petrol to prevent fuel going off in tank and help to lube top end of engine. I have seen some cars that run only on LPG return some very respectable figures from an sr20 220-230rwkw through to a blown 350 chev with no traction in any of its 3 forward gears! the down side is the amount of fuel needed to get these figures being in some cases twice as much as petrol, so when you add it all up its 6 of one half a dozen of the other not to mention where you fit a reasonably sized tank in an R33! Don't know if I'm supposed to metion names, so I won't, but there is a place in Melbourne that has done great things with forced induction and LPG and also LPG injection. The money you might spend on injectors, fuel pumps and aftermarket EMS could be used to set up such a system! It all comes down to one's preference really at the end of the day performance is the goal and you could go either way. Cheers.

Hi guys, this is my first post as I'm new here, great forum by the way. I need some help! I have an R33 GTS-T which I purchased 3 months ago, very happy, but im having problems with the LSD. The diff in this vehicle is the same as in a GT-R and is called an Active LSD. I have tried to source skline manuals but none of them, that I've got my hands on, have anything about the system eg wiring diagrams, diagnosis etc..... The problem I'm having is that the diff open wheels from time to time e.g if I try to get the car into a slide going around a right hander the drivers rear open wheels. Around a left hander it will limo up. If the car is held in a static burnout it will limo but if i fish tail to the right the inside(drivers) wheel takes all the drive, hence my bald drivers side tire. I have 2 dash lights on my tacho the A-LSD and SLIP when I start the car the slip light comes on does its check then turns off, I have never seen the A-lsd light come on at all! should both lights come on when I start the car, should the slip light come on if the diff is open wheeling.... I have checked the resorvoir in the boot, the level of fluid is fine. With the car on a hoist and a block of wood is put under the drivers wheel (passengers side off the ground) and driven in 1st gear the wood stays put and the pass side spins freely, swap it over and the pass side spits the wood out every time, which leads me to believe that it is a problem that could be rectified by have the clutch packs shimed up. However, this system is computer controlled and hydraulically actuated so the problem may be in those places too.... You can see my dilema, I'd rather not pull the car off the road and shim the diff only to put it back in and have it not function properly. I'm not logging any ABS codes under normal driving, burnout will bring on ABS light which means that the input side of things is ok ( I'm assuming that the computer uses wheel speed sesors to determine when it should activate LSD) So if anyone has any ideas it would be greatly appriciated! Thanks Matt.