mattymagoo22

Bean. Nissan designed the car to run exactly how it came off the production line. 3psi<4500 7>4500rpm, no big bore exhaust without a cat. The second you change the exhaust, boost,tubo, fuel pressure etc etc these are things that can potentially harm or in some cases destroy both the engine and the turbo. As mentioned before if boost is raised the cars ECU goes into R&R (richen up and retard timing) to prevent high cylinder temps and detonation which occur when outright power is sort after and none of the supporting systems are considered (AFRs, intake temps, injector duty cycle etc etc). So to sum up, installing an aftermarket ECU or having a tune done is not masking the problem, it is simply getting the most from what you have SAFELY! the factory tune isn't designed for outright power, its a compromise between power, economy and longevity and by running the way it does its saying something isn't right I got to save myself and so the extra fuel goes in and the timing gets pulled out of it. Cheers.

Correct me if I'm wrong but i'm pretty sure that the rb25 series 2 R33 have a nylon compressor wheel, which may cause it to sound a little different to when a steel wheel is spinning up? if this is the turbo you're using it may be the reason, when I changed mine over from standard to hks 2530 totally diff noise when spinning up. Just a thought.

I reckon they're a bit of a pain trying to gett that bearing out of the sandwich plate to pull apart the main shaft is quite the sticklerhad to modify my tools( grind!!!). If it was cast iron was going to press it lucky i didn't as they're pretty brittle being aluminium, you got a special tool or what Gtrgodzilla67???

Looks good I guess you'd need to have it calibrated to ensure its accuracy from the start if you want to be that specific. Have you tried Nitrogen in your tyres?

no it won't come up until the fuel gets low enough in the tank. I thought people were having me on about there even being a light at all comes on when there is about 10 litres left i'm pretty sure.

you should try and talk to people with the different setups you're thinking of getting and take the car for a drive. IMO brass/ceramic/puk clutch's are good for the track, but everyday driving will wear them out real quick, as mentioned above the disc is still in good condition but the flywheel and pressure plate wear out. If the cars daily driven give it 9 - 12 months and you'll be having the box out paying more cash for a twin or something similar. Cheers

Give it a try, it may suprise us. If you look at it at its only 5% in each cylinder thats filled with exhaust that won't help the Fuel burn, so therfore the mixture effectively becomes richer and rich mixtures burn quicker which again helps to keep your exhaust valves where they're supposed to be and not melting or lodging themselves in the top of the piston. There's another thing that makes me wonder. How many people out there when they get there cars dynoed get an exhaust reading before the Catalytic converter. The AFRs measured at the exhaust tip can be out (.3 - .4) when a measure is taken before the converter as the converter uses the oxygen left in the exhaust to carry out its function. Just something I'd like put out there to get some feed back on. Cheers Matt.

yeah i think you're thinking of something else man. and the only thing you need to block would be the vacuum line to the diaphragm that controls the EGR or to unplug it if its electrically controlled. I really doubt that exhaust gas will crack a head.

no need to do this not only is it bad for the environment( not that I'm a greeny) but it is an emissions system and is highly illegal. The egr will open under cruise conditions unless its blocked open, so at idle and under full throttle it won't let exhuast in. It can bring cylinder temps down as the exhaust gas is cooler than the combustion taking place in the cylinder. Once the engines warmed up the fuel being sprayed onto the back of the intake valve is plenty of heat to get the fuel vapourised. the approx 5% of gas thats allowed to enter the cylinder would do little to hamper the engines performance especially when you're not after outright power under cruise conditions. Just my thoughts on the matter. cheers

www.braidedhoses.com.au is all you need to know. This site will tell you pro's con's where to buy them etc etc. Unless the braided line has the little rubber grommet between the banjo/fitting and the braid it is not ADR compliant. After the hoses are made they are tested to 3000psi to ensure no leaks, then if possible9 by that i mean room permits depending on the fittings) they can be stamped to say that they have been tested and comply and the company that made the hosed is required to keep documentation on the job it has completed in case of problems down the road. Its amazing to see just how much the rubber lines balloon when placed under 3000psi of pressure, in braided lines there is zero expansion. I have them on my bike and on my car and the difference is very noticable and I think well worth the money. They are over kill on a clutch pedal unless its running near something extremely hot, exhaust turbo, replacing the stupid system on an R33 with a single rubber line and doing away with the other bits of metal piping, is well worth it as they're a pain to bleed sometimes. I can see a point of view that they are not needed on the road unless you drive like an idiot, however, remember that the energy that is used to balloon your rubber lines instead of stopping the car, unlike braided lines, could be the difference between a close call and an accident. The same applies for the master cylinder stopper ( these are standard on VS commodores and maybe some others I think).

Hey mate, You don't need to remove the pin and springclip. Just loosen the nut behind the U bracket and wind the pushrod counter-clockwise, after you've turned it say one rotation jump up into the seat start her up and see if the pedal is where you want it, adjust as necessary, once it is right lock the nut against the U bracket and you're set. By winding the pushrod you are moving the postion of the U bracket. When the U bracket is moved the friction point changes in relation clutch pedal travel. If you look under the dash when you are adjusting the pedal you'll see the pad where the pedal rests. If the U bracket is too far out this will keep the pedal partially engaged, and the clutch will quickly wear out/slip. by moving it in you'll prevent this from happening because as the clutch wears the friction point will gradually get closer to the top. After you've made the adjustment if the pedal doesn't feel right you may have air in the system and these systems are not fun to bleed.

guys if you push the pedal in and the noise goes away that means your GEARBOX bearings are shot as the gearbox still spins in neutral, by pushing the clutch you take the gearbox out of the equation. Vice versa and the opposite is true. The marks on the diaphragm spring on the pressure plate are normal as this is the surface the thrust bearing runs against. hope this helps. cheers

were the rotors completely clean before you took it out to bed in the pads, did they have any greasy finger prints or oil still on them, as when the brakes get real hot left over gunk on brakes tend to cook and make them squeal. Just a thought.

Coolant temp sensor works on resistance, the additional wiring most likely gave the ecu an incorrect reading and rubbish in means rubbish out.

i can only suggest checking the part no.s on the exedy website to see if the bearing is the same.

wolverine, He didn't say he wanted them cleaned, he said he wanted them flow tested. Buy the time you buy the 6 injectors get them cleaned you may as well have bought new ones. My injectors were not cleaned before installed. I checked the spray pattern all good, no leaks from the pintle under 60psi pressure, engine has a good idle, AFRs are safe, saved myself a heap of cash got the outcome, I wanted power on a budget, so I'm all for 2nd hand injectors, but thats just my opinion.

just something I've found with the RB25, alot of people snap the exhaust cam when putting in aftermarket cams, it usually isn't due to a bad installation but the fact that the head has warped on the exhaust side over time and putting in a cam that is true without getting the cam bearings line bored can cause problems with clearances. Just be mindful as snapping a $400 cam ain't much fun.

i had 7 broken studs on an RB30. Drilled the whole way through the broken stud, sprayed some WD in behind the stud through the hole i just drilled then proceeded to drill the next and spray etc etc. after all were drilled and sprayed i got a TORX bit with plenty of teeth on it (like a double hex allen key but it adapts to a socket so you can ratchet it out) that is just a bit too big for the hole, the tighter the better, tapped it in with a hammer and then first wound it in half a turn then wound it out all the way. if the TORX bit slips in the stud drill a bigger hole use a bigger bit. I've found extractors to be very brittle and easy to snap, the TORX is both hard and strong so the chances of it braking off in the stud are slim to none. I understand space is at a premium, but if you can get an angle head drill in there your set. Hope this helps.

the best you could do to check a gearbox thats not in a car is to make sure it selects all 6 gears. Beyond that you'd have to wait till its in and you drive it. if you're really keen you could turn the input shaft in each gear to check if any teeth are missing but as for bearings synchros and the like needs to be loaded up.

don't worry about the bottom of the injector. If the tops, where they plug in to the harness,are a reddish terracotta-brown then you should be right. just as long as they are not purple as they are 380cc stock skyline/s14 injectors. You'll probably find that if you try to get them flow tested they'll want anywhere from $20-$35 an injector as they'll sting you for a clean as well.

what colour are they? yellow pages 'carby and EFI' there should be someone that can flow them for you

Haven't had it dynoed but i'd guess around 200rwkw. did a 13.8 @104 i think with a 2.2 60ft time so with drag radials will go low 13s

Make: Nissan Model: R33 SKYLINE Milage: 70 xxx Colour: Burgandy Location: Sydney, Parramatta RWC supplied? If required Currently registered? YES 28/12/07 Price: $16200 Neg Contact: Matt 0412 307 844 This car has been in the country since February 2006 at 59xxxklms I am the first owner. I have fully serviced the vehicle: Timing belt Water pump Cam & Crank seals Coolant Brake & clutch fluid Engine oil and filter every 5k Gearbox and diff oils Power steering fluid Fuel Filter Mods to the car: Power Fc S15 injectors Hks 2530 turbo FMIC Hybrid Stainless steel braided brake and clutch lines Slotted rotors ROH fury 17 inch wheels Coilover suspension exedy HD Organic clutch Tint Immobiliser Full exhaust Have receipts for everything very clean car in and out regretful sale got to pay some more of the mortgage and I want to keep my bike so the car is the one to go. No reasonable offer will be refused. Cheers Matt.

i think they're a pull clutch so theres a srping that holds th bearing to the pressure plate diaphragm spring a big flathead in between and twist

don't keep the revs low and DONOT load the engine up in high gears with low vehicle speeds. Ideally you should give the engine a decent amount of revs anywhere between 3000- 5500 or so up a winding hill to put load on the engine in its peak torque range, don't bounce it off the limiter or go flat sick everywhere. Using the mineral oil to bed an engine in is best as it still contains some impurities which helps to take the top off the peaks left after honing the bores. Theoretically synthetic oils are supposed to prevent any where at all that why it a bad idea to use it running an engine in. Its my understanding that you want to knock the top off the peaks left from honing the bores but not take them completely all the way off. by taking the tops off it still leaves a valley where risidual oil can sit and help to lubricate the rings and piston against the bores. synthetic will not allow where so in turn the bores glaze and never achieve a good wear pattern allowing oil in to burn. the first 800ks or so are the most important when running in an engine i wouldn't use synth until after at least 5000ks. thats my opinion hope its useful.