mattymagoo22

all pm's replied too thanks

hey guys settlement on the house is only a couple of weeks away now, would let to see my baby off to a good home, so price drop to $14900. Thats a lot of car for the money I'm asking!!!!!!

yeah thanks mate I work at parra, what are you driving? Its only been in the country a year or so I've looked after it done most of the work myself, thats why its clean never spent so much money on a car before!

Pics are up guys and forgot to mention drift wing and greddy boost controller. Cheers Matt.

Hi guys, I'm in sydney, have a 1994 S1 r33 GTS-T for sale. Burgandy in colour. Car has 68,xxxks on it, was imported 06. rego till december. Was trying to get the car ready for some circuit work, but house comes first now. I have all the receipts for the work I've done to it which includes: Front mount intercooler, hybrid kit. Aftermarket hks2530 turbo 10psi. Hsd coilover suspension HR Heavy duty exedy clutch (less than 1 month old) Stainless steel braided brake and clutch lines. Power FC with S15 injectors. Replaced water pump, timing belt, cam seals crank seal,changed coolant brake fluid gearbox and diff oil, serviced every 3000ks, fuel filter replaced when injectors went in about 2 months ago. Has keyless entry, immobiliser. There are 17's on it at the moment that are pretty bashed up(got them like it for free) but I still have the stock wheels computer, suspension, injectors. Exhaust is aftermarkt dump pipe/front pipe and 3.5inch cat back with a silencer for the rear muffler. Have spent 7+k on it. Due to the cheap price of these cars now am only asking $15800. Car also has a Greddy Profec B boost controller that isn't yet fitted as well as an unpainted drift wing. Pm me if interested. cheers matt. ph 0412 307 844 If I take too long getting back to you please don't be offended as I have a thousand things to do as I've bought a house, so bear with me. Will post pics later.

worn out pads, glazed(shiny surface) discs and pads, oil/grease left on rotors after working on car heats up and eventually makes for noisey brakes. The type of pads used, asbestos while dangerous, was the best friction material ever no clutch shudder no squeaking brakes or warped rotors so sad to see it go. Cheers matt. oh yeah dust build up from pads wearing can affect discs but mostly drum brake setups

yeah I was bleeding mine and my helper (read knob) let it go dry!!!!!! so mad took me an hour to fix it. those extra pipes are the stupidist things ever invented!!!!!! I ended up getting reverse bleeding it up through the slave then bleeding the master then pushing pedal down clamped off line to slave then pulled pedal off the floor with hand and I heard some air rush out then pdal all good. I've removed the extra piping now and just run the pipe straight into the flex line. gravity bleed soooo easy.

injector duty cycle above 90% i think and air flow meter above 5V you can turn them off in the etc section

i think you'll find that the common knock sensor is a piezo crystal that produces a voltage according to level of stress applied to it when pre-ignition happens. I'm pretty sure its no more than like 2V and I think there is a jaycar kit that had an LED output. Hope this helps Matt

thats the one

never said they were 480. mine are set at 448 and i have had no probs.

I did my injectors to 448cc and the latency as .584 - .528....... from memory If i'm wrong and the injectors are 480cc then by having the 82.5% setting i will be pumping in too much fuel as this setting only changes a variable in the ECUs already made up for 370cc equation. i guess as long as the AFR's are ok then regardless of the inputs its going to be safe. So i guess i'll find out when it gets tuned. you used the settings for the S14 injectors under them are the settings for an RB25DET so it would probably different again Cheers for that mate. Matt

hey mate i had a similar problem after replacing timing belt with a non gen item it was like the belt was too thick but it made a graunching type noise that increased frequency as revs climbed and i did the same thing took all belts off checked all bearings idlers for drive belts a/c bearings started engine with no belts on at all, noise was definetely coming from timing belt. I sent the belt back and got a genuine item (which worked out $30 cheaper, got better than trade though) fit it all up then it was fine no matter how much tension i put on or took off the belt, weird huh???? always use genuine eh. to me it sounded like the teeth on the non gen belt were sort of too big for the cam and crank pulleys. i am not 100% sure of the exact problem but all good now.

with your engine idling give the wiring around the engine bay( injectors, igniter, etc etc) a good pull/wiggle and see if it plays up as it may have a bad connection somewhere and its playing up under the torque loading of the engine under acceleration just a thought.

hey mate you could probably pull close to that out of the 25/30 with all the mods you've mentioned and a set of cams, as manwhore said it will bolt on (as long as you get the T3 flange) and depending on your cooler piping you may need a reducer on the outlet side going to stock piping (stock piping is bigger than outlet of turbo) but this would be pushing the efficiency of this turbo. I got this turbo as I wanted good midrange (read "usable") power

do you mean an elcetroinic controller to give % drive to front or rear

ha ha, some people are pretty fired up aye! this is nearly like holden v ford.... "there IS only 1 car to drive must have 8 cylinders....."

Why pay top dollar........ slotted discs with an angle grinder

that why he wants to talk for so long, to see what you want how it will be driven how much power etc etc. The exedy hd organic is good so far but i will agree on it having a small friction point.

power fc gets its reading from the speedo head

are you sure it 2 inches over standard??

hey mate i'm pretty sure that the latency is the time it takes to operate the injector ie time its switched on to the time its actually open fully, there will be some lag hence the need for the settings. you could probably have them way out and it may not matter.....? might give it a try..... as long as you've got the percentages right thats the main thing so it doesn't chuck in too much fuel, it should be ok

your only allowed 1 inch bigger over standard wheel size

it secures from both strut towers to the middle of the firewall, you can push a square over out of shape but a triangle is much stronger tieing the whole front end up tight

all rb25dets have variable cam timing. the vtec on a honda is far more advanced in the area having a different set of lobes hence a diff cam profile! turbos are always going to have more torque. The rb engine was discontinued as it could not meet emissions however you must admit 160hp from an na 1.6 is pretty good from factory and 240+hp from the 2.2 in the s2000. a turbo always has more scope from improvement, but take this in into consideration Honda never had a warranty claim for an engine failure on ANY VTEC motor.