debonaire

Alright folks! I've been in Brisbane about 9 months and keep meaning to go find where you guys hide your schnitzel burgers! In Sydney and Wollongong they're everywhere: only $5ish for glorious mayo-covered monster that you can't fit in your mouth I'm in Newmarket, and haven't come across anything like this around the metro/north - do you need to head out east to the more beachy parts or something? I asked some guys at work: "Where do you go around here for a mad chicken burger?" "Um,...theres KFC up the road?" "No, I mean like a big schnitty" "....Red Rooster?" *Facepalm!* So spill the beans

Hey Aler, I googled for some pics to help explain the info given by gotRICE? http://www.plracing.com/T28Turbo-actuator.jpg - The gold coloured piece in this pic is the wastegate actuator. The nipple on the front of the cyliner in the foreground connects via a vacuum hose to either the compressor housing itself, or somewhere along the intake (at a point after intake air has passed through the turbo). As gotRICE? said, there is some sort of diapragm inside which bends/moves toward the rear of the picture when pressure is experienced by the front side (i.e. when you are on boost). When the diaphragm moves, is pushes the long gold rod, swinging the lever that you can see where it connects to the exhaust turbine housing at the back. http://www.flickr.com/photos/itsbrian/3322169272/ - Here you can see from the opposite end, looking at where the turbo bolts to the dump pipe. Exhaust coming from the engine flows through the turbine on the left here and out towards your face as you look at it. On the right you can see the wastegate and how it is connected to the actuator. You can't actually see the hole from this angle, but here the wastegate is open, allowing exhaust gasses to bypass the turbine and flow straight past the turbo into the dump pipe - preventing the turbo from speeding up any further. The picture above is an example of an internal wastegate, because it is a part of the turbo structure itself. This is the norm, but for big HP where this small hole can't deal with the high airflow, an external wastegate is used, which is a separate unit. As you can probably gather, it is the actuator that is responsible for when the wastegate opens, and this varies from turbo to turbo. It is common for people to transplant the actuator from an R32 Gts-t, which is set to 10psi, to and R33 turbo that ordinarily runs a dual stage 5,7psi. In cars with dual stage boost, the actuator works in addition with another control module. Simple boost controllers like the turbotech and bleed valves are placed in the vacuum hose between the compressor and the wastegate actuator, and, without going into specifics, distort this pressure so that, even though the system may be running 10psi for instance, the actuator doesn't realise this so the wastegate stays closed and more boost is made. I'm not sure if ebc's operate exactly the same way, it might vary between models. Without knowing more about your product and how you have it set up, I'm as perplexed as everyone else in trying to figure out the reason behind the symptoms you are giving. Sorry if I was at all patronising or insulted your intelligence, don't know how much you know and I have a lot of time on my hands so I thought I'd go with the basics

Thanks guys, thats helpful feedback I am only wanting it for little things, for instance a while ago I made an air box out of thin metal - without anything better to use I had to use scissors to cut it out which was a pain in the anus, especially to cut the hole for the pipe - I had to pierce a hole and then awkwardly cut little bits at a time until I made a 3 inch circle Got there in the end, but would like to be a bit less primitive in the future

Hey all, I'm looking at getting a Dremel or similar tool, as, having only moved out from home less than a year ago, I have not amassed a collection of power tools and want something to use for general cutting, drilling and knocking together the usual little engine bay and interior projects. I went to Bunnings this morning, and they had the following: Dremel 300 + 10 Acc. $89 Dremel 300 + Flex attachment + 55 Acc. $129 Dremel 400 + 4 attachements + 80 Acc. $169 Ozito - don't really know whats in it. $46 Ryobi + many attachments $104 Also I doscovered at the local hardware an engraver/cutter for $25. For working with materials like Aluminium and plastic up to 1mm, bits of timber and the like, would the engraver be out of its league? I'm interested to know what people use and recommend. The Ryobi looks like a good set, but at least with the Dremel you wouldnt have to worry about compatibility issues with all the attachments they offer, like the thing that turns it into a pedestal drill which looks awesome One thing I do want is the attachment that allows you to cut around like a jigsaw, which the Ryobi has but only the biggest Dremel set has. I want this to last a long time so happy to spend a bit, but just thought I'd get peoples opinions... cheers

Make that two

When my window stopped working, I pulled the switch assembly apart and the copper contacts were all eroded and dirty. I just cleaned them up and it still works good as new. Not sure if this is what you mean you have done already but if not, give it a go.

Thanks for your suggestion djr81. The mode door actuator is the little black plastic unit with the motor in it, yeah? Do you mean to pull the plug off it, put multimeter leads in the plug and try changing mode? I did that just now without reading a voltage, but wasn't sure which connections to use so maybe I didn't do a correct combination. Or did you do something differently? I thought that, since the motor itself worked when powered then if it got a signal it would operate, or is it not that simple?

Yes, the climate control in my R32 will not move between feet, face, etc. This has been the case for a long time, and only now have I bothered to try to fix it. I am pretty sure that it worked sporadically before failing to work at all. In case anyone is confused, there is nothing wrong with selecting hot/cold, only the 'mode'. Facts of the situation: -When pressing the mode button, the display changes, but nothing else happens. -There is no noise from the motor that operates the flaps. -I removed the motor + gear assembly and applied a voltage to the motor and it worked. -The gears and metal contacts appeared clean and intact. -A/C diagnostic returned "31,32,34,35,36" indicating connector disconnection, but -The connections to the motor, rear of the A/C unit and all the connections behind the unit appear OK. I have even opened up the A/C unit and the chip boards look alright. The only place I cannot follow the wires is between the steering column and the centre console, where it runs under the main dash piece. Is it likely there could be a problem in there? It seems to be encased in one of those ribbed tubes through this section so I don't really feel like pulling the whole f-ing dash out if its unlikely to result in anything. Could it be a case of the unit being internally stuffed and just refusing to output? If so will an R33 unit plug and play in an R32? I've always been able to fix these sort of niggles so I am at my wits end with this. Does anyone have any suggestions before I put it all back together and return to reaching under the dash to change the vents??

What a shame, can't bring the R35 GTR as it isn't a Skyline or RB-powered jk Hopefully I can make it with my R32 and meet some people

For an RB20, the part number is 11826-72L10 and description is Blow By Hose. RB25 is slightly different size. I took mine to Metro Nissan in Brisbane, the guy looked it up and had it shipped from Melbourne overnight. Best of all it is only $22 so don't waste your time looking for a second hand one or using a non-molded bit of hose. PS, you won't believe how bendy they are when new

Does anyone have pics of a white RB timing belt cover and/or coilpack cover? I'm sure I saw a picture on here once, but have been searching the last two days through all the Paint My Engine threads and not found anything.

Hi all, I've forever been trying to find a way to enclose the pod filter that came on my HCR32, but its just too big. Sitting on the afm, its too close to the bonnet to put anything over the top. I tried getting a tight 90deg bend to face it down into the corner but this doesn't work either, whether the pipe is before or after the afm. So I've conceded that I need a smaller pod, but this isn't as easy as I thought it would be. The only small filter I can find is a Saber - but can't find any discussion on it. How do they go? I'd happily get an Apexi Power Intake but there doesnt appear to be any suitable - the ones that bolt straight onto the afm are almost as big as my current one and the universal+adapter costs a fortune and I still can't find how big they are. I want something around 140mm diameter or less, and up to about 130mm long if cylindrical or 150mm if tapered - to clamp onto 3" pipe.

I am interested in the x-force cat. How much delivered to 2226?

Hey, how much for all 4 rotors (normal slotted ones) for R32 gts-t plus postage to sydney?

Mine arrived first thing this morning - couldn't believe speed of service. Thanks Greg, I will leave some trader feedback

Oo! Oo! Me, Me! I've been waiting for this Will PM....

Decat pipe is sold. If anyone wants the front pipe, just let me know and you can have it.

Bump chicka Bu-Bump

Item1: 3" De-cat pipe. This was attached to a second hand Kakimoto exhaust system I bought, looks like it could have been part of the original Kakimoto system, but the branding was only on the catback section so I can't be sure. At the end of the day, its just a straight 3" pipe with the sensor position, so I don't think it matters much Includes bolts and gaskets. Condition: It's obviously used, but theres nothing wrong with it. Price: $50 SOLD To Fit: It's from an R32, I won't speculate on what else it fits. Item2: Stock R32 Front Pipe Condition: A bit scratched and dinged, probably no worse than any other stock part of this age. Price: $20 Location: Sutherland Shire, Sydney Contact: Vaughan: 0400441986 or just reply to thread or PM if you can Comments: I'd prefer pick up but will post the decat pipe at buyers expense if required.

How do you like the exhaust mate? Is it very loud?

Just quickly as I'm in a rush: -Take off intercooler piping as it makes things a lot easier -Disconnect ignition cables - on top of the engine towards the back unclip the plastic connector. Once you do this the engine will not fire when you turn the key. -You need to loosen a bolt behind the pulley on the fron of the PS unit - turn the key so that the starter motor turns it until the hole in the pulley lines up with the bolt. Theres one or two other bolts you need to loosen, I'm sure you're capable figuring out the rest just by looking at it but these are the secrets of how to get it done

Thanks abu, that first answer was all I wanted to know . It's just that some stock exhaust systems aren't restricitive enough to bother with upgrading - in HPI issue 73 they show that a stock GTR catback actually gets more power than an aftermarket bit - and say that since the front pipe and catalytic converter are the most restrictive parts of the exhaust, upgrading after the cat isnt always necessary, as long as the muffler is free flowing. Kozeyekan - you didnt read the question champ

So theres always discussion of the relative performance of a turbo-back versus a catback system, and the benefits of adding the split front pipe and high flow cat to a cat-back system, but: Starting with a stock system, is it better value to just throw on the front/dump and cat and leave the stock catback on there, and save money for something else? Or will an aftermarket catback have a discernable advantage over the factory part? The car is an R32 GTS-T and my reason for wanting to keep the stock catback, apart from cost, is I don't want it to become loud and I don't fancy big shiny cannons. Is the R32 muffler restricitive enough to warrant replacing?