Guest101

Everything about a 'Pull' type is better than a 'push' type.. Push type are an old design. Pull type are harder to install. Pull type will result in a higher pressure clamp on the pressure plate, but they also have more efficient leverage at the bearing, so results in a lighter pedal.

Wheel Bearing

Did you machine the flywheel when changing the clutch? My guess is the flywheel is worn into a funnel shape (only very slightly, probably invisable to the eye). So when you shove the pedal in the clutch plate is still grabbing along the outside edge.. If the flywheel is fine, perhaps there is a physical defect in the pressure plate. Or maybe you have a mismatched clutch bearing (happened to me, I was supplied a bearing slightly shorter than what was required, and the outside clips on the bearing were hitting the solid edge of the pressure plate). Hope that helps. Clutches can be a real pain.

I am also new to RB motors, so you may have to excuse me. I would like to know if there is any decent proof that this standard BOV does leak at higher boost levels..? You compared it to a wastegate, which is completely different, if the wastegate can't flow enough, then boost rises.. The opposite doesn't apply for a BOV. And as you stated, it works based on the pressure difference from either side of the throttle plate... Therefore, no matter how much boost you throw at it, it will still remain neutral with basically identical pressures both pushing the BOV open, and holding it shut. (So, because of the internal spring it will stay shut). Unless this device is built to act as a POV ((Pop off valve) don't know if they're still called that). The POV was featured on most of the earlier turbo cars, 70's & 80's.. It's purpose was to vent excess boost pressure if the boost got to high. So if you have a failure with the wastegate system of the turbo, the motor wont then be forced everything the turbo can throw at it. sorry if that didn't make sense. Or perhaps because of higher boost, and inlet modifications, the internal spring can't hold the small difference in pressure because of a big front mount cooler etc. In that case, why not run the vaccum hoses from somewhere else..? (hook up 1 either side of the throttle body, or at least both hoses from the same side of the cooler (after it)).. Or if it is meant to act as a POV (or whatever), why can't that bit be removed/disabled from the BOV...? Now I'm confusing myself even more.... Hope all that made sense to somebody, coz I aint proof readin...

Yes, make sure all your leads are in good condition, and make sure you not touching earth (the cars body). I've been stung twice, once from an old carby motor (which would have been between 5,000 V and 20,000 V) and once from electronic ignition.. (generally 40,000 V to 60,000 V).. It hurts alot, and can toss you into the air... I ended up across the carport, and with chronic shaking from my right hand to my left for a couple of hours.. In that circumstance, a lead had fallen off, so, with the car still running, I lent on the radiator support and grab the lead, then saw a fat blue spark come out from under the insulated plug, and sting me on my hand.. I still live... Although it is certainly enough current to kill someone, because it sparks with each revolution of the motor, it isn't a constent current. Therefore, rather than locking your muscles so you can't move; you get 1 violent zap and thrown free. Lucky for me.... It hadn't even crossed my mind at the time.

Nothing that you would notice, or probably even be able to measure; unless it was the weak link causing a fault. A coil is simply a coil of insulated wire, which can serve many purposes; but the reason the resistance measured lower is because over time with all the heat it sits in, it can melt/join neighbouring coils of wire within the coil.. effectively this makes for a coil with less windings, less windings means less length of wire, which means less resistance.

Personally I have found all bendix pads to be as good as any standard replacement pad, the Metal King were the best they have made.. I use to use Ferodo pads in my ET Turbo (known for poor brakes).. At the time I loved em, as they were by far the best pad I'd come across... Also very cheap, only I'd go through a set at least once a month.. Then I had a standard VL Commo with cop rims and 8" wide turanzas (although the car was cheap and crap, I could still drive through the hills at speeds of 200km/h+ and still retain full grip.. (almost)... Half the reason was because the standard brake pads didn't slow the car at all through the hills, so was forced to take corners at crazy speeds.. And also because that's how I like to drive my cars... Anyhow, I then bought some EBC Green Stuff Pads (next level up from EBC's standard replacements) off eBay for $120 new. Put it this way, the car originally was very difficult to pull up in casual traffic... Then by only changing the front pads, it became literally unbelievable. I put in a gtech and managed 200 to 0 km/h in 3 seconds easily.. They are still decent when cold, and start working good from around 50 degrees C (very low). The hotter they get, the better they work... No brake fade at all (that I could manage on the street in the stock VL)... 1 night I even got the brakes on fire (next step after glowing bright red) on a long steep fast decent through the hills. Still managed to pull up at the bottom of the hill with small flames coming off the brakes. And even after 6 months of use, they would still amaze me every day... untill they wore out at about the 8 month mark... So I think what I'm trying to say is, give EBC brake pads a try... they rock.. Regards, JT