Angus Smart

Try the uk forum, People here like to keep secrets for some reason.

Oh nice so there is no problem with a releif spring system in the standard unit? sounds like a good idea tho that thing loks ugly and heavy on the front p.s thanks for the offer on the bolts, i picked up some lastnite and bent them. so i bought 2 high tinsile ones this morning for 6bucks. can anyone in this thread tell me if 300zx Arp rod bolts are the ones to buy for standard rb rods?? this information is like getting blood from a stone!!

well, if you leave it running too rich for too long you will glaze the bores, which stuffs the honing and thus the oiling is worse off. will result in many piston/ring failures too lean, you will also have failures on the pistons/rings. so at the end of the day get a tune. or just drive like grandma untill

Ok they should be out before then, checking up on this.. but if not is there another address we can use? i buy my gear from america with similar situation, got a whole 3500 retail here setup for 1500 mmmm powder, i might have to visit sometime!

I need the size of the bolts quickly, cant find it in the manual only torque specs for the bolts cant get pulley off so need to get some bolts to lock the crank to the engine stand. cheers Andrew

thank you

i know there isnt a specific part number for rb, but i'd like to know which part number matches up for the rb rods. The only thing i can get close to finding is the 300zx parts from the uk forum.. but they are just plain arp bolts and nothing special if you want to just pm me the part number and i will go from there

you may have to come around soon, as for that crank remember it has a f$#@#ed keyway. so if thats anygood to you or not. ??

Hey Mark, I'll check with him to see what he thinks the date will be, he thinks they will be ready by the 18th but i will check again. i'm sure dew to their length they will be fedex 2-3 day delivery anyway. its the only way to ship out of the us i know this from snowboard purchaces

Errr anyone??

yerp and then new turbos, new exhaust, and a whole heap of other new things i would have needed to suit the rb30. i did the math and this is the way i wanted to go... and besides i now have two motors at home so i can sell off some old bits to recoup costs. and the price of my n1 block was quiet cheap..

you'd probably end up close to the 6-7k mark if you got most of the stuff done yourself the braided lines are really the big killer, you will spend close to 2k alone on just lines and fittings. and may even go over that price the sump tank pump and brackets shouldn't cost that much at all in the end maybe 4k but i guess it depends if you know someone good with a welder and some dry sumping experience haha but i just spend lots on a n1 block.. there is no rb30 ever going on here!!

My mate came over tonite and looked at my new motor and said, fu*k that thing off, thats some weight you can loose.. i'm sure another bypass system can be made or can be worked out to work properly..

niiicee this will be interesting

yerp the 18th and onwards they are expecting the shafts to be ready and i figure something like fedex for delivery dew to their size, so thats usually under 3 days.. i will confirm all this with him Andrew

Moar on oil.. can i remove the stock oil cooler? bolted to the side of the block?

Hellooo everyone just pulling the new motor apart and thought i'd ask in here as it will go noticed can i remove the stock oil cooler unit? and never put it back on? or is it needed? i do have a large greddy unit

wow, i think i might become a long term paid user soon! sounds like you guys have all the fun.

Well it has begun and i am stripping it down some more, and no doubt heading towards a rebuild in dew time.. now here are a few photos, tho uploading to the forum isnt quiet working at this time. A few days ago.. Earlier today And now Pistons appear to be the standard N1 items x43 AB0 0.5 everything seems to be in good condition, tho i haven't spun the crank yet but the bores that i can see look nice, unlike the old block...

So can someone confirm that 300zx bolts are the ones to go for? from the twin turbo version Turbo model part number 202-6004 or from the non turbo part number 202-6003 ??

Hahaha, well some advice is good here, and others i really like Moar!! the way i see it, if i am going to pull it down why waste putting it back together the way it came.... if n1 motors are not all that great. but i have started to go the pussy route and its getting pulled down to see what its like inside.. i also did a leak down test yesterday and it came up perfect the gauge hardly moved off the set position showing a very non leaky motor. also tried to spin itself around a few times. it spins very freely with plugs out and doesnt appear to be any problems there. So far the sump is off, and draining of all excess oil. i'll throw some photos on here later. i'm already shopping for some bits, i am going to work out what arp rod bolts to get.. head studs and main studs also. hell i think i may aswell rebuild the whole damn thing may aswell do it right. And Duncan. i think the car is staying put for now. might just get a bank loan to fund that business. i kinda like debt.

Search function is out of action for me.. so i ask this question, what is the partnumber to use? the arp catalog does not list rb26 so which partnumber to go for when buying rod bolts? arp2000 or whatever is the best one to go for?? Cheers Andrew

I have the news everyone has been waiting to hear I have an email at home but have not been able to post it as the forums have been moving.. the 18th i will most probably be making the final deposit and they will be getting sent out. we are on the production line at the moment i think. so not long now will post email when i get home thanks for the patience Andrew

shit if its an idea to strip it down then why bother rebuilding it standard again.. i do agree checking it is a good idea and i will do this. but to put it all back together again is a funny move, i guess it all comes down to money. i may even get a friend over and do the checking myself. will i have to dig up clearances for n1 motors? or is this the same as any other rb26???? as for the head/cams etc. they are aftermarket cams in this motor, but i had some pretty good cams in my previous motor which suited the turbos very well. i will reuse them i guess. Off to the snow for the weekend now, i guess this will happen sometime next week if anyone can help me with the info i need about clearances that would be great

Feedback left also as for Kent, you will notice a keyway on your crank shaft, it goes in there. it may have fallen out, but this is the locating device for the balancer