HunterDevourer

Does the greddy gauge include the boost sensor and wiring harness?

Which model walbro is it? gss341 or 342? Metal gears inside?

Still available? I'm looking to buy 4 only, let me know if you can split

Hey all, I've replaced my R30 with a turbo RX7 so have a few bits and pieces I don't really need anymore. I was running a Motec M48 Clubman, tuned and installed by SWR for the FJ20 (ran 14psi) - the m48 is unfortunately not great for rotaries (not enough ignition outputs/missing few features) so looking at selling it to buy a Link G4! Has the wiring loom and sensors etc. I used the Motecs boost controller but will be keeping the controller (Delco unit) for the RX7. Probably looking at around $1500 or shoot an offer. Bought some R30 castor rods off SWR too, and the bushing kit for them, never installed, think I paid $220, take them for $150. Also have a couple of standard DR30 FJ20t ecus, an R180 diff, some DR30 rear brake bits, think there are some standard injectors with the rail somewhere too. Let me know if you're interested in anything reply here or PM. Cheers.

Motec clubman or pro? Got a serial number, loom with it etc?

Any track updates or anything? Seat rails, not sure what they're worth really, $75?

You gonna get rid of the rails on the bride seat as well?

Mag - slight misunderstanding, I was mentioning the strut tops not swaybar! I might change that at some point but my understanding is that thicker swaybars can hide some bad handling characteristics so I'll fix those first. But definitely available and cheap! Ben - not sure about how fresh the motor is, not rebuilt or anything so still standard internally. I think the tune is a bit on the safe/rich side as it blows a bit of black smoke when the throttle gets a hit. I might get it tuned a bit more to run a bit cleaner, but I might wait until I get the rebuilt engine.

ECU is a Motec m48 clubman. When I decided on the ECU upgrade thought if I could find one of the better ones (Autronic, Motec) for a decent price I'd rather that over a Microtech etc. Yeah looked through the subforum a lot about the possible upgrades, trouble is the hr31 bits are really expensive, s13 coilovers interesting but lots of the coilovers you see aren't really well setup for street use as I understand. But I've looked a bit at the floating hub conversion, and what MAG suggests is probably the easiest to do. Only issue I thought with doing that is the rotor may not be centered in the calipers? S13/R31 strut tops will bolt in, but they're apparently not much use as the bolting is the opposite way around or something, so no real camber changes possible. Can probably get datsun ones though, was being stingy though! If I get the forged engine though I'll be able to have some fun eventually finding a silly turbo. And it comes with a gearbox, so I'll be able to replace mine which now makes a terrible rattling sound.

Doh! Too quick

Bought some adjustable castor rods + new bushes from SWR, they'll be installed at some point to give super front grip power. Don't suppose anyone has adjustable strut tops at all... Thinking of running better tyres as well, got some 16" wheels but they'll need longer wheel studs to fit properly. But plenty of high quality second hand tyres floating around in that size. 15s not so much. Discovered the annoyance of non floating hubs with DR30 stuff as well. Will forget about upgrading brakes for a bit, anyone know if the datsport floating hub kit works alright or better to upgrade to s13/hr31 bits? Also lined up rebuilt fj20 to buy, for eventual big turbo fun.

What does the brake setup include? Assuming calipers and rotors front and rear, are the front calipers 4pot?

R200 is in finally, after buying it from discopotato a fair while ago. Took a bit of stuffing around, first time it went in discovered I had the wrong halfshafts. This time discovered the right shafts had the wrong flange for the wheel hubs, but pulled off the r180 ones and stuck them on and now it's all in and working! No longer does it just spin when trying to accelerate quickly or around a corner but just grips instead! Now it may be time for better braking...r32 or r33 bits sell quite cheap now. I also want to tighten the cars handling especially after driving a mates FC rx7.

The 14psi dyno sheet is here. And new fuel rail.

Thought I'd post something up for those interested, I gave some info ages ago, but some updates since then. Car is a 1985 R30 Hatch, Ti model I'm assuming due to having power windows, mirrors and sunroof. It currently has a standard internal FJ20et, with fj20 gearbox going to the standard r180 (I've got an R200 to go in courtesy of discopotato I believe...taken my time, tried the other week but needed a different tailshaft flange which SWR have installed now). It also now has an SWR made fuel rail running 4x550cc 13bt injectors. The exhaust is a 3", large front mount intercooler from...don't know and a unifilter pod filter (realized I need to clean that and take photo of the new rail as well as new dyno sheet). The suspension is DR30 front struts, bilstein types with the rears being koni adjustables, using low kings springs all around. DR30 front brakes, rear brakes standard (have DR30 ones if I ever decide to put them in). Engine management is now provided by a Motec m48 clubman, with a switch in the cabin switching between 7/14psi courtesy of the motec boost controller. I've only got a picture of the dyno for the original 7psi tune before it was taken up to 14 after the new injectors and rail were fitted. At 14psi it now makes 200rwhp. Annoyingly, after boosting it after the tune the gearbox started making noises, SWR took it apart but it seemed ok but I'm on the lookout for an r32 box if one comes up at a cheap price to replace it. I'll probably look at getting SWR castor rods to increase + castor on the front end sometime, as well as sticking in the r200. Incidentally, one major gripe is that the headroom isn't great with the sunroof, meaning I can barely fit in with a helmet for track days. Does anyone have any recommendations for good replacement seats (which will also be more supportive than sliding everywhere on track days). Do the R31 seat rails bolt up? Just want to get a more supportive seat that'll sit a fair bit lower so the helmet doesn't bump the roof! Can probably stick other seats on the current rails, anyone have a good drivers seat on standard rail or anything? Will also look for semi slicks in case of a track day in future (16" for some wheels I have). I'm also thinking of buying a rebuilt FJ20 with forgies, possibly better turbo in the future as well. Still only taken it to one EC track day in 2006. Very fun. Enjoy.