HunterDevourer

Does the greddy gauge include the boost sensor and wiring harness?

Which model walbro is it? gss341 or 342? Metal gears inside?

Still available? I'm looking to buy 4 only, let me know if you can split

Hey all, I've replaced my R30 with a turbo RX7 so have a few bits and pieces I don't really need anymore. I was running a Motec M48 Clubman, tuned and installed by SWR for the FJ20 (ran 14psi) - the m48 is unfortunately not great for rotaries (not enough ignition outputs/missing few features) so looking at selling it to buy a Link G4! Has the wiring loom and sensors etc. I used the Motecs boost controller but will be keeping the controller (Delco unit) for the RX7. Probably looking at around $1500 or shoot an offer. Bought some R30 castor rods off SWR too, and the bushing kit for them, never installed, think I paid $220, take them for $150. Also have a couple of standard DR30 FJ20t ecus, an R180 diff, some DR30 rear brake bits, think there are some standard injectors with the rail somewhere too. Let me know if you're interested in anything reply here or PM. Cheers.

Motec clubman or pro? Got a serial number, loom with it etc?

Any track updates or anything? Seat rails, not sure what they're worth really, $75?

You gonna get rid of the rails on the bride seat as well?

Mag - slight misunderstanding, I was mentioning the strut tops not swaybar! I might change that at some point but my understanding is that thicker swaybars can hide some bad handling characteristics so I'll fix those first. But definitely available and cheap! Ben - not sure about how fresh the motor is, not rebuilt or anything so still standard internally. I think the tune is a bit on the safe/rich side as it blows a bit of black smoke when the throttle gets a hit. I might get it tuned a bit more to run a bit cleaner, but I might wait until I get the rebuilt engine.

ECU is a Motec m48 clubman. When I decided on the ECU upgrade thought if I could find one of the better ones (Autronic, Motec) for a decent price I'd rather that over a Microtech etc. Yeah looked through the subforum a lot about the possible upgrades, trouble is the hr31 bits are really expensive, s13 coilovers interesting but lots of the coilovers you see aren't really well setup for street use as I understand. But I've looked a bit at the floating hub conversion, and what MAG suggests is probably the easiest to do. Only issue I thought with doing that is the rotor may not be centered in the calipers? S13/R31 strut tops will bolt in, but they're apparently not much use as the bolting is the opposite way around or something, so no real camber changes possible. Can probably get datsun ones though, was being stingy though! If I get the forged engine though I'll be able to have some fun eventually finding a silly turbo. And it comes with a gearbox, so I'll be able to replace mine which now makes a terrible rattling sound.

Doh! Too quick

Bought some adjustable castor rods + new bushes from SWR, they'll be installed at some point to give super front grip power. Don't suppose anyone has adjustable strut tops at all... Thinking of running better tyres as well, got some 16" wheels but they'll need longer wheel studs to fit properly. But plenty of high quality second hand tyres floating around in that size. 15s not so much. Discovered the annoyance of non floating hubs with DR30 stuff as well. Will forget about upgrading brakes for a bit, anyone know if the datsport floating hub kit works alright or better to upgrade to s13/hr31 bits? Also lined up rebuilt fj20 to buy, for eventual big turbo fun.

What does the brake setup include? Assuming calipers and rotors front and rear, are the front calipers 4pot?

R200 is in finally, after buying it from discopotato a fair while ago. Took a bit of stuffing around, first time it went in discovered I had the wrong halfshafts. This time discovered the right shafts had the wrong flange for the wheel hubs, but pulled off the r180 ones and stuck them on and now it's all in and working! No longer does it just spin when trying to accelerate quickly or around a corner but just grips instead! Now it may be time for better braking...r32 or r33 bits sell quite cheap now. I also want to tighten the cars handling especially after driving a mates FC rx7.

The 14psi dyno sheet is here. And new fuel rail.

Thought I'd post something up for those interested, I gave some info ages ago, but some updates since then. Car is a 1985 R30 Hatch, Ti model I'm assuming due to having power windows, mirrors and sunroof. It currently has a standard internal FJ20et, with fj20 gearbox going to the standard r180 (I've got an R200 to go in courtesy of discopotato I believe...taken my time, tried the other week but needed a different tailshaft flange which SWR have installed now). It also now has an SWR made fuel rail running 4x550cc 13bt injectors. The exhaust is a 3", large front mount intercooler from...don't know and a unifilter pod filter (realized I need to clean that and take photo of the new rail as well as new dyno sheet). The suspension is DR30 front struts, bilstein types with the rears being koni adjustables, using low kings springs all around. DR30 front brakes, rear brakes standard (have DR30 ones if I ever decide to put them in). Engine management is now provided by a Motec m48 clubman, with a switch in the cabin switching between 7/14psi courtesy of the motec boost controller. I've only got a picture of the dyno for the original 7psi tune before it was taken up to 14 after the new injectors and rail were fitted. At 14psi it now makes 200rwhp. Annoyingly, after boosting it after the tune the gearbox started making noises, SWR took it apart but it seemed ok but I'm on the lookout for an r32 box if one comes up at a cheap price to replace it. I'll probably look at getting SWR castor rods to increase + castor on the front end sometime, as well as sticking in the r200. Incidentally, one major gripe is that the headroom isn't great with the sunroof, meaning I can barely fit in with a helmet for track days. Does anyone have any recommendations for good replacement seats (which will also be more supportive than sliding everywhere on track days). Do the R31 seat rails bolt up? Just want to get a more supportive seat that'll sit a fair bit lower so the helmet doesn't bump the roof! Can probably stick other seats on the current rails, anyone have a good drivers seat on standard rail or anything? Will also look for semi slicks in case of a track day in future (16" for some wheels I have). I'm also thinking of buying a rebuilt FJ20 with forgies, possibly better turbo in the future as well. Still only taken it to one EC track day in 2006. Very fun. Enjoy.

You received any of my recent messages about the seats? You close enough to Maroochydore to send anything from the Pack Send office there?

Send you another PM about the seats.

Whereabouts are you?

Is the price negotiable?

Cool, I sent you a couple PMs, don't know if they went through. Let me know. Is the diff mount the same thing as the moustache bar?

Whereabouts are you discpotato? Like I said in the first post, looking into r200 lsds so...what kind of figures for your one (what ratio as well?), and the dr30 rear brakes and rear mount bar... That'd mean I'd just need halfshafts and moustache bar for an r200 fitted. I'll PM you as well.

Thanks for the responses. Discopotato03 the R30 hatch had disc brakes as standard rather than drums, so hopefully it'll be closer than the drum setup would be. Thanks for the offer on the rear brakes as well, I'm currently looking at the options. How difficult is changing the mount from r180 to r200 anyway? One other thing, the indicators sometimes have a tendency to just go on - not blink, what would be the part I'd need to replace to resolve the issue?

http://members.optushome.com.au/hunterdevo...20r30/13-11-06/ some pictures there. Dyno curve. I've actually bought a z31 and nisssan 300c brake master cylinder which should be the bigger type so I'll have a go with those. The rear tyres are 205 on the stock rims, they definately have traction issues if I try and accelerate quickly from a stop. I'm in Sydney, around Ryde.

Hi, I'm looking to fit an LSD into my R30 Skyline hatch, looking to get the longnose R200 LSD from the DR30 including halfshafts and 290mm brakes. If you also have a DR30 15/16" master cylinder with 10" brake booster I'd be interested in that too. I'm also looking for Autronic ECUs with the Autotune feature installed (with a harness/sensors/manual/software/etc). If you have any bits or pieces, reply, PM or send an email [email protected] I'm in Sydney, don't know what postage is like from interstate for something like a diff though...if it's reasonably priced I wouldn't mind though. Cheers.

Hi, I have an 85 R30 Skyline Hatch with an FJ20et engine conversion. Just had a few questions which I'd appreciate some input on. 1) I'm looking at upgrading the diff to an LSD item (it has the stock r180 diff at the moment), and am currently looking at a DR30 rear assembly (diff/brakes/halfshafts). I wanted to check how difficult it is to install this item in the r30 hatch (searched and couldn't really find too much on the question) or whether it all bolts up pretty easily? (The rear also has koni shocks and will have slightly lower king springs soon). Do the brake lines/handbrake cables match up easily? (And if the dr30 rear has a better handbrake system that'd be great - current one sucks). What type of LSD is the standard DR30 item? 2) As mentioned the front brakes have been converted to the DR30 274mm rotors and calipers. However it's running the (I believe) standard R30 braking master cylinder and booster (has 7/8 on the side). I'd want to upgrade them to the dr30 items (I've read it vastly improves pedal feel-true?). Of the 15/16 or 1" master cylinder which is the better to get? And what of the brake booster, that was a bigger item for the dr30? I wanted to also confirm the 15/16 master cylinder is equal to a 280zx. 3) The vehicle is fitted with a sunroof which has an occasional annoying leak, mainly when stationary in rain for a few minutes. Is there a place to get replacement rubbers or an easy fix for the seals? And of course, if anyone has a dr30 rear end with lsd, an appropriate master cylinder/booster or a bunch of sunroof rubber/seals for sale or sitting unused I would be interested in a purchase. Cheers Details on the car (if you're curious - irrelevant to above) Skyline R30 Hatch FJ20et engine & gearbox Front Mount Intercooler Unifilter Pod Filter 3" exhaust Front Bilsteins, rear Konis (stock springs - soon to be replaced with 1" lowered King Springs) Turbosmart dual stage boost controller (13psi high boost) DR30 front brakes, standard R30 rear, running some sort of 4x4 pad Standard wheels with alright tyres 190rwhp @ 13psi Eastern Creek: 2:16.6400 (As above, but without boost controller, 170rwhp)