cheez

i had no probs with the bar i got off him. i thought for fibreglass it was reasonably thick considering some of the other dodgy shit that is going around. never had any crach issues.

gtr wing will fit perfect on gtst. but if i was you i would have waited until i found a OEM gtr wing on the forums for sale. carmate's products have a reputation of not being great quality.

yeh thats the link. he 1 i had was for an item and then to seller. you an see his stuff by clicking seller's other items. btw guys, i still have my trial rear bar for sale. 170 and some1 can have it.

3" up to 300rwkw 3.5 - 4" for more than 300rwkw

pics and location?

the headlights are a 1 piece fully sealed headlight. if u wanna clean them, get some cut n polish in 1, and give them a rub with that. that will clear up the headlights for ya.

3 tyres left guys. come get em, they are roadworthy

i got my 34 now, will have its 19's on by the time ur wedding is on and will still be immaculate.

i think u need gtr latch and also need to re adjust the hinges to suit or buy gtr hunges so no adjustment is needed.

thanks for that al, ill give them a buzz. ionly need the 1 pipe which mkes it easier. the other can remain the same out of the kit.

man thats tuff. i went to replace my high beams for the same reason, only thing i found was that the phillips manual said tey were h1 but infact the standard r34 high beams are hb3 globes. if u convert them back, use hb3 crystal vision globes for that white look like m3 bmw.

mine was: 山田 Yamada (mountain field) 雄大 Masahiro (big hero) go figure, mountain field big hero. lol

all tyres gone

hey guys, looking at getting a front mount for my r34 but dont want to cut holes in the apron like i did my 33. i want the cooler to be a little more discreet. does anybody know where i can get a custom cooler pipe made that will return to the standard points on the RHS of the car? any recomendations? cheers daniel

for all that work kevin, bog will crack at first hit. he's better off doing it wih fibreglass than bog if hes DIY the bar. but if u just wanna tape it use some black racing tape. the thick duct tape. that will be fine, but i wouldnt put it on the front of the bar just the side section.

well the one on the front lip isnt to bad. to strengthen all these areas you can by a diy fibreglass repair kit from autobahn for $28. it an easy way to fibreglass behind all the crack points to harden them up and reduce the amount of movement they have. front lip crack: easy fix, glass the rear of the bar, then use bog to fill the void on top and sand to smoove. prep for re-spray with primer. side wheel arch: bit of a harder fix coz by the look of it, the bar has splintered all the way through and is 2 seperate pieces almost. still u glass the back of it once the bar is aligned as best as possible and then before doing anything to the front side of the bar, sand away loose fibreglass, and lay maybe 1 or 2 layers of fibreglass into the area. to do this cut a piece the size of the area and apply resin to it away from the bar and just lay it in position. then again, bog and sand and prep for paint with primer. if your in melb and would like a hand to do this repair im more than happy to help out for a slab of jim beam and coke

as with all aftermarket front bars, it lowers the height of the front. as a general rule of thumb, aftermarket bars are 44cm from top to bottom at the guard and 40cm from centre top of bar to bottom centre. this should make for a handy comparison to the standard front bar

use an adhesive silicon around the metal reinforcement for the boot, and just clean it up so doesnt look bad. get 1 in the colour of your car. that will stop boot rattle. use blu tack under ur number plates to stop them rattling. and for anything else there is duct tape.

yeh it would no problems. just make sure the spoke design will clear the front calipers.

depends where exactly near the wheel arch it has cracked and how bad they are. post up some pics of it and ill be able to give u an idea on its strength and how long it will maintain its shape for. i work with fibreglass and carbon fibre all day everyday, so depending on where you are i would be able to help you out repairing and strengthening it if you want.

to flush the radiator u dont neeed to remove it. just d/c the top hose and then the bottom hose. put a hose in the top and flush away. after that flush the engine by sticking the hose into the intake (top hose) and allowiing the watr to come out the bottom. if u get brown water and crap coming out, thats the issue for ocer heating. rusted dfins and crap in the radiator (rust) that i causing yor issues. but also after doing this getyour cooling system pressure tested. in my old 33, sme thing happened. flushed radiator, had it checked and still same thing. pressure tested the system found a small leak from a hose that was 10cm long but enough that it was leaking fluid at temp and causing the overheat

another thing is check that the battery terminals are secure and tight. sometimes they make enough contact for a while then the wriggle a little the last time u drove it and now dont have the contact to draw the needed power from the battery

how much for just the cap? if its not sold

while this topic is open, wats the max psi u can safely run through the standard 34 turbo? im not wanting to upgrade that yet coz need the computer first, but i have to do something. my old 33 was making 190 atw and now driving a34 with around 140-150 atw its a big jump.

dont think so, the manual dash wont have the connector for the auto lights down the middle but the speedo and tacho should still work.