cheez

location mate? also wat turbo u running? and condition of safc. pics too if u got em. interested in both

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i currently got my stockies sand blasted and powder coated, cost me 180 all up for the 4, best way to do it in my opinion, no chipping or flaking, makes them look mint.

hey guys im after the standard wheel centre caps that go on the r33 s1 rims. they are made of plastic and have the nissan logo on them. if u have em i want em. 4 needed im in melb but pm me and ill work something out with you cheers daniel

i work with carbon and you can repair it. its a prick of a job if u want the carbon to still be clear. if you just need a fix and not a clear finish fix, prob cost like 200 plus paint, clear finish like 600 plus paint. a clear finish needs extra time take to align the weave of the carbon, extra time ti not distort the carbon, time to re clear the entire bonnet so the corners dont look out of place with nice new clear resin and most expensive of all, tryin to find some 1 who will take the time to do it, so thats y ull pay through the nose if u want a clear finish. IMO, get it repaired, and instead of spraying, there is new contact type carbon stuff you can get, ive seen many items wrapped in it, no distortion or defects visible, then ppl apply like 3 coats of 2 pac clear and it gives the piece a deep clear coat and awesom carbon finish. speak to abcent on the forum and get him to show you his drift wing. when he got it, it looks like carbon and will fool almost every1 out there, other than ppl like myself that work with the shit and know the diff. hope this helps ya out

get the standard turb hi flowed. its good to 19psi and thats heaps for street apps. will allow up to about 300rwKw with some supporting mods. (injectors, piston, cams, ecu etc etc) IMHO for $1000 odd to get a slide hi flow go for it. otherwise go see jpc racing, rajab racing, promaz, they are good with turbo hi flowing. similar price to slide but i reckon they'' do it a lil cheaper.

dont bother wit the split dump, if u got a 3" front dump like the flyn one then yout fine. if your car is putting more than 250atw then i still would suggest the 3" pipe. a 3" pipe will allow better flow in high hp apps. the split dump is good to about 230kw then a 3" will see better response.

only selling at the moment on ebay i belive

um, polishing product? y just get it powder coated in a chrome. no polishing and fuss. just a wipe occassionally. tools to pull apart an r33 bay is simple, 2 screwdrivers, socket set and spanner set. done. oh and some side cutters and pliers. btw powder coating in a chrome is cheap, i had 4 wheels powder coated in gloss white for $80, so some piping in chrome wont be more than that.

guys i have your answer. i been speaking with a place that imports the conversion kits to go from r33 to r34 front end. the kit includes headlights(original nissan), front bar of your choice, m sport fenders or r34 1, r34 bonnet in either c/f or f/g, grill and template for the hinge mountin position. cost $1900. i was amazed as most places sell these kits for like 3400. if u want some more info let me know

its worth powder coating the pipe that comes from the front mount to the plenumm, it insulates the pipe and keeps the cold air that has just passed through the fmic colder than allowing it to absorb heat on its return back into the bay.

ok guys i spoke to the guy today. he imports the kits and other items he has, bonnets, grills etc. they are meant to be of high quality. at the moment he is clearing old stock as he has a new container coming in july. i am buying a do luck front bar off him, going to see it tuesday aro. he stocks all skyline kits from r32-r34. hes got in stock atm bomex, do luck, gtr style, bn kits, and some others which i cant remember. if u want to give him a call pm me and ill give u his number. cheers daniel

im callin them tomoz to see about a group buy on body kits. will post again tomoz nite.

rocker covers diy, coil pack cover diy. search and there are many threads relating to how its done. also you can do timing belt cover yourself. dressing up other things is up to you. powder coating is similar to painting just the layer is thicker and if done corrctly is very effective in high temp projects. things i would recommened powder coating are the plenum, all your fmic pipes, and thats about it. you can buy coloured radiator hose kits from auto bahn, and other hoses u can just measure diametre and replace hose for hose once you purchase the desired colour hose. professionally will cost you heaps. diy and save some cash

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im running a 3" straight dump pipe, hi flow cat, and jasma approved cat back exhaust, its like 92dB on back off and 90dB on ramp up, has also a mid muffler and i had my sky tined last week at 168rwkw. only other mods are fmic, k&n panel filter and grounded out boost solenoid at 8psi. runs well enough. guy i got the exhaust off said he had it tuned on his car and with it was still making 198 at the rears. IMHO, epa should go get fuc*ked. leave us to modify how we like as long as our pollution emissions are fine and the mods are rw. who cares if its a lil loud. ecu, pod, fmic, boost, wats it got to do with em. bloody poofters.

pav, spoken to lotsa ppl on this issue, unless your shooting for more than 250rwkw, its ok to run either pipe. You will only see a real noticeable difference at high hp. so as on that note, why screw around with a great exhaust set up that nissan give you, dont worry bout the split dump, just get a 3" straight pipe put it. under 250rwkw the increase is the same. cheers daniel

hey guys with installing a gtr pump, are they a direct swap for the gtst? i got a 33gtst and wanna put a 33gtr pump in that i have lyin aroung. will this work? ill be shooting for 220rwkw? cheers danie l

its a conversion that kit that is on there. fair few grand indeed, like 8-10 i think some thread was saying a while ago. its a bit of work cos they have to mod the bonnet to suit and radiator support wall, as well as the guards to suit the doors and front bar. its a f*#k load of work but still looks sexy as.

to run the 32 actuator all you do is replace the 33 one with the 32, they are a straight swap (exactly the same except for the set spring pressure) and then all you do is bypass your boost solenoid. to do this you disconnect the vaccum lines from the boost controller and consettina pipe that goes to the turbo and run just 1 vaccum line from the intercooler nipple to the actuator and done, your now running 10psi. Quick hint tho: get an aftermarket boost gauge installed before you put the actuator in. this will allow a more accurate reading of the boost your running. some r32 actuators have had their springs changed for 15psi or 13psi, and the standard 33 turbo cant run that. Some other sau forum mebers have experienced this, and spikes of 15psi from a changed spring are common so do that first

interior colour? what comes with it? seats? dash? console? floor carpet? wat parts

how much for just the front seats with the rails? pm me

psi parts have them for 350, i asked about them already. for that price i would go for a do luck front bar. they look better than the trust 1.s

search thr forum for console re-sprays. many write ups on it. IMO sand, spray with filler/primer, and re-spray the colour out of a spray can

i found with clear coat it left a slight yellowish tinge to the rim, where as a coat without clear was bright white. preperation is vital in gettin the colour perfect. just use 600-800grit sand paper to smooth the rim and the 3 coats of filler will cover almost all minor scratches so they wont be visible.