trism

google image search ftw

learn2read

so take it back and tell them. any probs should be covered under warranty

^^ exactly. if you drive thru water deeper than about 5cm, it will tend to pull at that side

rather than asking for help over the internet, and a month later not being any closer, can i suggest taking it to a mechanic/workshop?

ok, few things i need you to answer for me first. 1.is the install fresh, or old? 2. if old, has it just started doing it, or is it an ongoing problem? 3. who did the install it could be a few things 1. you need to upgrade your engine bay grounds. you need to remember,that the power not only needs to get to the amp, the circuit needs to be complete for it to return to the battery. the stock grounds are normally around 8ga. upgrade these to a couple of 4 guages. 2. the amp may not be wired correctly, and thus not be able to handle running the sub.

they dont even work.... mythbusters proved it....

Indeed it would. No thats correct, you would need to buy a headunit that has either 3 outputs, or, some will have only 2, but the 2nd set can be switched between either rear, or subwoofer. Keep this in mind when looking. It would provide sound that, given proper installation, would be better than stock. If you find this to be beneficial, then its perfect for your needs, without going to the next step of adding sound deadener.

no, boost controllers arent legal

you are correct. a system that sounds amazazing while parked will not sound as good while driving. things like subbass will be drowned out, cancelled by road noise, highs will be affected due to wind, etc. these cars however all have exstensive sound deadening done to them, so these things possibly affecting the sound wont be as large as other cars. you say you want quality, but obviously if you ware worried, and reading on further in your post arent going to "boutique" audio stores, and are only looking at entry/common brands, then any issue wont matter. in your case, all you want is something to listen to. so there isnt much point taking alot of effort worrying about such issues. a baisc system will provide basic sound. a high end system will have better sound no matter what, even when driving. once again, personal preference at what you need. you need to keep in mind that when a manufacturing puts the power rating on a headunit (40 watt, 50 watt etc) these are not rms ratings. they are max ratings. a headunit will put out 15wrms if youre lucky. when you say "6.5 inch 3 or 4 way" basically, you are stating that you want to buy a 6.5 inch speaker, with a coaxially mounted tweeter, and one or two extra peices of plastic, moulded in teh vague shape of a speaker. these extra "mini tweeters" dont do anything, except suck in teens who think that having as many speakers in one unit is the best. you are best to look at either a simple 2 way coaxial, or 2 way splits(tweeter is split from mid driver) id like to suggest a few changes though. personally., id spend about 150-200 ont eh front speakers, and 100 on teh rear. you sit in teh front, not the back, and any passengers can just put up with the slightly, but very unnoticble difference. generally splits in teh front, coxials in the back is a good thing to do. id also amplify the front speakers. as i said before, the headunit will put out 15wrms, tops. to help overcome road noise etc, and get decent sound, its best to amplify them. what you can do in your case is get a 4 channel amp, have the front speakers running off the first two chans, then bridge 3+4 for the sub. budget about 300 for this, to get a decent thing. dont forget also to add the cost of a wiring kit ($50) and a sub box, prefab ($100) or make it yourself, which wil cost you the wood, and screws/glue/carpet.

spew

im not driving this DD season.... only cause i got done last one october long weekend.... on the f-way going back to newy... just near the tuggerah exit...

im pretty sure that although everyone says to do this, its illegal, because you are recording someone without their consent. you can only do that if you are the feds/cops

x11ty to what has alreayds been said

lol sorry, dont get all narccy now. made a simple mistake

supertaxis run 19x11s (or 12s, cant remember) all round... cant really say thats not large...

i shall commence with examples 1. ford GT40. first year of production, 1963 2. Chev Camaro. production date late 60s 3. Pontiac GTO production in late 60s early 70s 4. Ferrari 330 testa rossa. production 1962 now, i think youll agree that all of these predate the current obsession with "drift"

yes but no. maybe make that wing for skylines, but these types of spoilers have been around for years!!!

sweet

HQ Monaro/Valiant Charger/1957 Chev Belair/1964 Impala/Dodge Viper ()

i love decel tunes... give it a bootfull and then it craclkles and flames on the back off.... sounds awesome

been playing juiced 2, not a bad game actually! but after playing NFS:Pro Street then going to it, its hard to get used to.. but overall, the game play is more like NFS: Underground 2, ie the drifting etc is more arcady

on the PS3s hub/main menu thing, where all the options are, you can make another account. think of it like a computer... its got nothing to do with online, but each account has its own saved games, own settings for display etc etc etc

ok, so basically, that means that the sub can handle 400watts continuously, and a burst of 1200watts for a short period of time (like, a second or 2) you amp is 150wrms, meaning the sub is underpowered. generally its a good idea to get an amp that can put out more power that the sub can handle. what this will allow you to do is have the gain low, and the amp will never be strained, and will run cooler, draw less power, etc. look at something around 500wrms dont get a multi channel and bridge it either, get a monoblock amp, these are designed specifically to run subs, so have beefier power supplies, etc etc

ok, so the ratings that you were told/supplied us are the MAX power ratings used by manufactueres to con people with little knowledge of car audio, such as yourself (no offence intended, its the truth) what you need to be looking for is constant power rating. that amp is 300watt max. 150wrms. (constant) what sub do you have? what is the constant rating? another thing you need to remember is that the gain control on the amp is NOT a volume control for teh amp. it is also known as the input sensitivty. dont have this on max, as it will cause the amp to clip, possibly damaging the amp.