ClumpyDog

Thanks for that! 370cc is RB25 stock injector size, so they had better be high flowed, otherwise I have been ripped off buying replacement 370cc ones. However- I don't think 370cc would have been sufficient to generate a reliable 1.2bar boost as it had when it was runing the Microtech, so I am thinking the previous owner's claims that they were modified may be correct. My car is currently dynoed on the original ECU to 1.0bar, which is supposedly maxed out on the injectors with a fuel regulator increasing the pressure.

They came out of my RB25, and original size injectors dropped straight in without any mods, so yes.

Just a couple of things- 1) I have had a look at the BOV after several enquiries asking if it is a real HKS- and the answer is I don't know. The only branding on it is on the adapter to fit the RB25- which definitely has HKS on it. The actual BOV itself has no branding at all, and I made the (possibly false) assumption that it is HKS also. The only writing on it is 'Sequential Blow Off Valve'. I didn't mean to confuse, just it is possible I was incorrect. 2) The Microtech MT-8 is a programmable race computer that should fit any 4, 6, or 8cyl petrol car- it will most likely need wiring diagrams and/or plugs to fit a specific application. I would not rely on the wires I have, as it was just hooked up as a piggyback. It may be possible to get wiring diagrams/wires from Microtech themselves- I would only rely on the actual ECU itself being usable, not the wires as can be seen in the picture. It is not a plug and play computer- it needs to be properly set up/dynoed to work properly, and installed at least by someone with the correct diagrams with a bit of time on their hands. If set up properly they can put out some very nice power though. 3) At this point I do not know the capacity of the injectors. It seems that it is a requirement to know this to sell them so I will have to get them flow tested. Can't guarantee I will be able to sell them for that price if it costs too much to get them tested.

OK the injectors are a dark purple colour. On one side it has the numbers: A46-F32 On the other it has: 1103220 The previous owner said they were modified, but didn't give a capacity, or say how they were modified. That may change things. I guess it depends if you want to take a punt with the capacity. As I said, if I cant sell them as is, I will spend the money to get them flow tested.

I am selling some parts from my R33 Skyline GTS-t, since the EPA got me, and it all had to be removed.. The car was reasonably quick (at least in comparison to stock as it is now) with this stuff on there- ~260rwkw at 1.2bar, through a T3 turbo. My only drag run was at Calder on a slippery, hot night, where the car ran 13.57 @ 106mph. I don't have a lot of the information on this stuff- it came with the car as I got it. Basically: Microtech MT-8 ECU: This was hooked up as a piggyback on my car to drive the larger injectors. I believe that this can also be used as a standalone computer. What you see in the pic is what you get- I don't have the wiring diagrams or know how to re-fit it- it was just removed from my car as it went back to the original computer, and is how the mechanic returned it to me. It also comes with the HKS Idle Stabiliser. Injectors: I don't know the capacity, but the workshop said they were pretty serious, much too big for the original computer to handle. The car was running two fuel pumps to be able to provide the fuel for them. I may get them flow tested if they are slow to sell. BOV: Self explanatory. It should fit where a stock BOV goes on the RB25DET. Note: The adapter is HKS, but the unit has no branding on it. It may NOT be genuine HKS. Catch can: Vent to air type. The lot: $800 Microtech ECU + Injectors together: $750 Microtech ECU: $500 Injectors: $300 BOV: $80 Catch can: $40 All of this stuff is 'as is'. I can say it was working when it was on my car a couple of months ago, but I cannot offer any guarantees. I am just selling it to recoup some of my losses of havng to go back to 'almost stock' to pass EPA requirements. Please address all queries to clumpy 'at' tpg.com.au . Postage is not included, it can be worked out based on where the postage is to. Can pick up at an agreed time also. Located in Wantirna, Melbourne.

Great, thanks for that. This clears things up a bit.. This car did have a boost controller, but no longer. It may not have been put back 'stock' correctly. The car has been meauring 0.6-0.7 bar of boost (8-10psi) so boost seems high if anything for the stock wastegate. Since your post, I checked the car, and indeed there was a hose going in to the wastegate return... it was connected via a T piece going in to the 'blue arrow' hose... so we have effectively 1 hose connected to the pressure and the non pressure side, which this solenoid is supposed to measure? It obviously was not doing a great deal, as the pressure goes straight back through the return. If effect, the solenoid would never be told that the pressure was too high, it would always be measuring lower than boost pressure. I think this T piece used to go to the the boost controller, but was just plumbed back wrongly. I have disconnected the T piece, and have replumbed 'green arrow' hose back to the wastegate return, and directly attached the 'blue arrow' pressure side to the solenoid. It looks neater now at least. I took the car for a drive, and it didn't make it any worse, but didn't make it any better either. Boost in unchanged at 0.6-0.7 bar, power is erratic. I guess it is time for the dyno tune...

Thanks for that, 1 down, 1 to go Attached is a hopefully easier to see picture... The red arrow is the gold colured valve part where the hoses are going to. The blue arrow is where the vacuum/pressure is obtained, this goes on to the valve part, the lower hose point. The green arrow points to the loose hose with the plug. This goes in to the valve part on the upper hose point, the other end hanging loose.. Sorry for my dodgy terminology, I don't know what it is supposed to be called.

My series 1 R33 GTS-t up until very recently was fairly modified, and the police thought so as well when they pulled me over and gave me a fine, and gave me an invite to the EPA. I have since decided to make my vehicle more legal, and have taken the car to a workshop to remove some mods, the main ones being the injectors and the Microtech MT8 computer, going back to stock ECU, AFM, etc. The car when I got it back is very uninspiring, has horrible torque holes, unpredictable power and is generally running poorly. The car has not been dyno tuned yet on the original stock parts, other than tuning by the workshop that changed my car back - but I have noticed a couple of things on the wiring/vacuum hose that I am not sure are quite right. I purchased the car with the Microtech, so it didnt have an AFM or some of the loom wiring- and didn't need it. Not much point getting it tuned, if something is unplugged that is causing my problems.. Two things seem to be obviously missing: - There is a prominent plug that looks like it needs something plugged in it about where the throttle butterfly is, going in to a black box. Nothing is plugged in there, and there is definitely no plug in the loom that matches it. Is this supposed to have something there? - A small vacuum hose is hanging loose with just a screw in it to prevent vacuum loss- This is next to the power steering reservoir, behind the air box. One hose goes to the pressure side of the intake, the other goes nowhere. Where is this supposed to go to? Any help appreciated. Thanks, Alan

Will do. Best to be safe. Thanks.

Thanks, I think that is what is happening. The car is a manual, and at the drags it was reaching 7500-8000rpm regularly. The sheer volume of oil seems to indicate it was pushing oil directly into the can using the built up blow by pressure. If it was excessive blow by due to rings, I still couldnt see it pushing that much oil by itself. The colour of the oil was pretty normal, a little dark, but that could have been 'old' oil in the can, because I hadn't emptied it before I got the car, so there may have been old oil in it as well. If it was a product of too many revs cauding too much oil being pumped into the head, I am not sure that winding back the boost pressure would help all that much- the oil pump pumps the same at 7500rpm no matter what the boost pressure. The solution may be to keep the revs lower until a more permanent solution can be implemented.

Brilliant, I found the relevant posts now. I did search the FAQ's first, but I must have missed it. Exactly what I was after. The posts seem to describe what is happening, and it makes more sense now. Winding back the boost for the track seems to be the cheapest/easiest option not involving head removal. Nice to know! Thanks! Alan

Cool, thanks for your advice. If you could excuse my ignorance for a sec, I am not sure how the turbo could be causing it. Maybe I am explaining the set up wrong or something. I am not too technically minded. I would have thought if the turbo was leaking oil into the intake I would have been burning a lot of it- this was not the case. There is a pipe connecting the top of the rocker cover to the catch can- it does not seem to be connected to the intake in any way, and the only oil or air the catch can should be seeing is coming from under the rocker cover on the head. I thought it was being caused by excessive blow by under high boost, or by too much oil getting into the head, and not being able to get out fast enough, so it pumps it out of the ventilation into the catch can. This is what I was hoping to rectify. Of course, if this is just ignorance talking feel free to correct me.

Thanks for the reply. What turbo? That's a very good question. Short answer is I don't know. Its a Garrett, but I know that helps as much as saying the car is a Nissan. When I had the intake piping off I couldn't see anything that identified it other than Garrett. It isn't particularly big though. The problem with buying a car someone else modified. If the problem is completely non-existent except under extended high boost, would that still be likely to be oil seal? It gets regular boost, just not for 1/4 mile at a time. I can see that it doesnt occur under low boost or short bursts.

Hi, I recently purchased a '94 GTS-t, RB25 running 1.2bar boost. I bought the car this way, so I don't know the nitty gritty of everything it has, but it has a oil catch can, which is the point of this question. Under normal driving, the can doesn't fill up at all, it doesnt use any oil, and is generally well behaved. Soon after I bought the car I took it down to Calder for the street drags, to see how it would do, as you do. Unfortunately, over 7 runs, the car had managed to dump over a litre of oil into the catch can, filling and overflowing it, not to mention coming close to causing the engine to starve for oil. Now- I assume running 1.2 bar of boost has something to do with it, but I am sure even with that there is something not right with the car dumping that much oil in such a short time. I am reluctant to take the car on to the track the way it is, as it really is going to put the car under much more stress than the drag strip ever would, and going around corners with oil low isn't a good idea. Is this common, and is there a good way of preventing this? Thanks, Alan