moobaque

So it seems like my issue has been solved by replacing the AFM! Its only been a few days, but not a single hesitation or stall since. The throttle is also noticeably more responsive at low Rpm.

Im having almost exactly the same issue. My problems started after the car sat idle for a few months while I was overseas. At first it seemed like it would only occur when running up a hill, but not every hill, just say one in every 50 for example, but it seems like the problem has evolved as it now occurs on any or no incline. This also happens randomly at any speed, and/or anywhere in the rev range. In the same way as cactus stated, when the car runs, it drives like a dream. But the cutting of power is completely random. Its pretty safe to say that the car will work fine for at least 10 minutes at the start of the day, but anywhere from 10-30mins of driving, at some stage the power will cut. It may just be for a second or two and then continue on, or like what happened on the freeway the other day. Driving at 100, power cut, never came back, rolled to the emergency lane. Sometimes you can restart the car immediately and continue on your merry way, but what is happening more often now is you have to sit for a few minutes before it will restart. I have a power fc with hand controller, and there is nothing crazing going on when I watch the voltage readings from the AFM. There also no coughing or hesitation of the engine, so its not like the fuel pressure is simply dropping, its almost like the ignition gets cut. My water temp is sitting at around 70º normally, but its not like its spiking at the points of stalling. The car has had its coilpacks replaced, new spark plugs, cleaned all ignition loom connections, AFM sensor and connector cleaned, fuel filter replaced and a new air filter for good measure. All of which has made zero difference. The car is running the standard fuel pump, but I do have a spare 040 kicking around that I will swap when I get the chance, but like I said it before the power loss is to instantaneous, seeming more like its on the electrical side of things. I'm really hoping someone can shed some light on this as its becoming quite an inconvenience. Cheers

Thanks guys, I did wonder when I was in the car the other day if it might also relate to the main braking system. I tried pumping the brake to see if more pressure made any difference to the warning, but no dice. The reservoir is below max but still within the indicated min mark. Will give a little bit of a top up and check out how the brake pads are fairing tomorrow. Certainly still have a firm pedal feel so hopefully its just being over sensitive to the reservoir level. Thanks again and hopefully I'll have good news to report soon.

Hi All, In the last couple of weeks and mainly since our cold Melbourne mornings I'm getting the hand brake dash light staying on in my R33. Sometimes the light will turn off immediately after the hand brake is released then will turn on again after several seconds, but mostly it will remain on until the engine has been running for 10-15 minutes. For the rest of the day it will continue indicating correctly. Now i'm wondering if this light might be used to indicate any other car related issues? I do have a power fc but as far as im aware it only uses the engine light for sensor maxing and the rest of the warning lights should act as they did with the OEM ECU. The car doesn't appear to be driving any different than normal, and it may very well be just a faulting switch on the hand brake. But this starts to seem unlikely when as mentioned early sometimes it does go off as it should then turns on again (without touching the hand brake) Any help would be very appreciated. Thanks

Hey mate, I'm after the drivers side interior a-pillar with clips. Drivers-side door window glass And driver side door frame rubber. Cheers Cam

Hey mate. Do you have the front inner plastic guards that go between the wheels and front bar? (both sides) Cheers Cam

I'm looking to do the same thing in Feb. Just got a quote of Autotrans.....$1400.... since it only cost me $100ish in fuel to do the drive up here, might find the time to fit in the drive back...

I simple check before your spend any money would be to remove your thermostat... chuck a pot of water on the stove... ideally if have a thermometer you can keep an eye on how hot the water is getting.. place the thermostat in the water and see if it opens.

I'm definitely green when it comes to fuel systems... so i'm just curious does everyone who chucks in a 040 NOT have some sort of filter on the end of it? like the oem or walbro? sounds like a very easy way to get shit stuck in your fuel lines... sure the fuel filter in the engine bay may stop it... but still there is alot of piping in between. Cheers Camden

I use to think my clutch was stock too (got the car at 60,000ks)... peddle was relatively light etc etc. That was until I jumped into my friends car and realized how much heavier my pressure plate really was. Still started to die at 180kw.... was destroyed once got 200+

Payment & PM Sent

Except your talking about a stock rb25 turbo that are prone to disintegrating when boost is above standard (he states he is running at 12psi) Our stupid turbines are ceramic bonded to steal.... Here are a couple options. GCG rebuilt with Garrett components (about $2000) chasers motorworks also offer a similar service HKS GT-RS kit. (about $3500 imported from japan or add another 1k or so if you buy locally) and thats about where it ends before your looking at new manifold, dump pipe, etc. Cheers Camden

I don't think there is necessarily a golden rule. It's all about how the peddle feels. Environmental factors as well as how hard you brake on the track will determine how long it lasts. If the the peddle ain't solid anymore... New fluid time. With my track abilities (hah which ain't that amazing) every couple of track days is so fine. But if its just street driving well over a year should be fine even with cheap fluid. Cheers Cam

You don't have to cut the whole cross member of the reo! although it will allow for much better airflow to your cooler. You do how ever have to notch out a section at each end of your reo (basically where the end tanks are) the curvature of the reo is to harsh and will hit your end tanks before reaching the mount points. (Speaking from a Series 1 r33 point of view) If you really don't want to touch a thing on your reo then the blitz is not going to work.. As already mentioned the ARC will but i don't think its actually made anymore?!?! and justjap sell a cheapy which im sure is perfectly fine unless your chasing mega power. Cheers Camden

Sure will. the physical width of the rim isn't changing, just its position in relation to mounting to the hub. Cheers Camden