moobaque

That'll just be the plug for the seat belt sensor. (activates light on dash if weight is on the seat and seatbelts not on) front air bag sensors are mounted just near your radiator and will only set the air bag off when crushed by completing a circuit inside i would asume. if your still stressed about your airbag just disconnect your battery. Its takes a voltage to set the airbags off.

SWEEET! my clutch pedal is heaps better. thanks to everyone who contributed! Camden

Awesome, so your saying there is no issue with the rod being spun inside the master cylinder. that i wasnt sure about. i'll give this a burl when i get a chance. Cheers mate Camden

The answer is no. The rear seatbelt points are the only strong enough "stock" places to utilise (DO NOT USE THE BABY RESTRAINTS!). Your only other option is to have some sport of custom made harness bar built. This by far is a much better option if your willing to spend the $$$. Using the rear setbelt bolts are way borderline on acceptable harness angle from your shoulders... under a heaving impact your spine will be compressed! the harness most defintly should come of your shoulders completely horizontal, although a slight down angle is still ok. Ive had a harness bar built which cost me about $500, althuogh it does still require the removal of my back seats to bolt in. At the end of the day how hard is it to remove your back seats? In my 33 its 2 bolts for the back rests and 2 bolts for the seats? pretty simple me thinks.

My 33 is puttin out 183kw 3" Turbo back exhaust Pod Filter Power Fc Tuned by Re Customs Stock Boost solinoid is allowing 10-11PSI simply with the aftermarket exhaust (mostly helped but the split dump pipe id say) I wouldnt be too stressed about a fmic if you just after the 180 mark, specially since you got a 34. But on the other hand why the hell not ECU is the way to go. or at least some sort of air/fuel controller otherwise you wont see the full potencial of you mods. The stock computer will detune itself as a protection mechanism. Or worst case scenario the car runs lean. but at these power goals i dout leaning out should be to much of an issue. running rich is far more likely.

Ok new questions to do with this whole clutch issue I had a go at trying to move that U bracket to see if it would make the difference in the clutch pedal but I hit a bit of a snag. i pulled the split pin and took out the short pin that links the U bracket to the back of the clutch pedal.. and thats about as far as i got. How do you get the clutch pedal far enough away from the U bracket so that you can spin it up or down the thread? Im really not keen on forcing the piston to lean up or down to try and get it out from the pedal. Im sure it must be really simple, just couldnt work it out. Cheers Camden

Hey Revhead, I dont want my username changed as such but there is an issue with the database somewhere. I login typing my username as it should be spelt "moobaque" but for some reason this then gets displayed everywhere as "mooabque" (the a and b are arse about) this would be great to rectify if possible. Thanks Camden

mine has been this heavy from day 1 so its prolly just the way it is. but i think i will bleed it anyway coz i'll be pretty excited if it did become lighter.

I dont think the clutch is dead coz its been like the for quite a while and hasnt been gettin worse. i do also have a little bit of freeplay at the top but as soon as u get past that freeplay ur at the friction point. Ive never noticed it slip under load on the track either (lots of 5000 to 7000rpm) heh this only started anoying me after i drove my mates r33 and the friction point was way down the bottom... I was also under the impression that my clutch was standard but after this same drive in my mates car my pedal is WAY heavier than his... I guess this could just mean i havea different clutch... or maybe worth a bleed?

Hey All, Ive been doing some searching through the forums about adjusting the clutch friction point on a R33 Gtst and it seems that the only adjustment available is at the back of the clutch pedal. Currently my clutch takes up with the pedal almost fully out. if i just have my foot resting on the clutch it can be enough to allow it to slip. My problem is i dont see how adjusting the back of the pedal is going to be benificial in the sense that i just want the friction point to be further down the pedal stroke. But if i spin that U bracket up or down the thread, in my mind thats simply going to move the pedals resting position further or closer away from the firewall but the friction point on the pedal is still exactly the same. also keep in mind it doesnt appear that the piston going into the master cyclinder can come out and further if i was to spin the U bracket down the thread, but then expect to have the pedal return to the same position... if that makes any sense? <- clutch pedal attaches here Please someone tell me i'm wrong coz i would really like to fix this... and im hoping my clutch just isnt to far warn.... Cheers Camden

Im just a little lost to why the stock steering wheel alligns centre perfectly fine but this new boss kit / aftermarket steering wheel doesnt thats why it kinda of seemed like there is a fault in the boss kit..? i wouldn't have thought my steering allignment would have been thrown out during change over... but maybe im wrong?

Hey all, Installed a hkb boss kit and momo steering wheel on my r33 gtst today with basically no issues... except...... i cant achieve the wheel to be alligned centre properly....i set the steering wheel straight and the car pulls slightly to the left. I then rotate the boss kit a single notch on the spline and it now pulls to the right. i then repeat the process several times incase i accidently move the boss kit more than a single notch... but im not. So i guess my question is: is this a manufacturing fault on the boss kit? or alternatively is there somewhere else i can make this fine adjustment? I guess its not a big issue but it does anoy me that the steering wheel is on a slight turn when im going straight!

well ive just been royally screwed by my work..... things have gone pear shaped and now my time off has been axed. i am so bloody ropeable right now! At this stage im out...let me know if i owe any money for the accomidation tho coz i dont wana leave anyone out of pocket. i still have this little glimmer of hope that if i work my arse off monday and tuesday i mite still be able to hammer it up on wednesday...we'll see...

Hey all, Because its a hidiously busy time at one of my works at the moment, i may be required back in melbourne for saturday. which is going to mean a long hall drive friday night. Just wondering if there is anyone who might be just coming along for the trip and might be interested in sharing some driving back to melbourne if this has to happen? Im sure some payment in beers can be arranged Cheers Camden

Im definitly still in! Gunna be a hooooot! Camden

Dag nam it! wish i could have been there! stupid work gettin the way of good times! I'll get to a DECA one day...

Yup thats in a 33. It was made by Meridian Motorsport in Moorabbin. Very impressed with there build quality and they are just good blokes! would recommend them for any motorsport prep. Its pretty simple process to put the seats back in too. im just lazy. its 4 hex bolts a side holding the bar in. (there is a plate with welded nuts attached on the underside of the wheel arch) and ive got cover plates i screw back in so water does splash its way through the holes)

I really doubt you are going to be able to make this work. the harness points need to be attached somewhere structual within the car and there is nothing where you are talking about, especially at the correct hieght for a harness to be going to. If your serious about having a harness then do it properly or its just more dangerous than having a 3 point street belt. As for using the parcel shelf i wouldnt recomend it in a skyline. its very easy for harness bars to be installed in cars like wrx's and commodores as they have more structual mounting points to use and have a better angle from the parcel shelf to the drivers seat (skylines parcel shelf is too high). One option is to come down between the back seat and its back rest. screw eyebolts into where the current back seatbelts are screwed in. Safety wise tho this is borderline. According to CAMS this is only within a couple degrees of being acceptable. Im not trying to make show car so i dont care the back of my car is naked, but this is what i had done to mount a harness properly. Just have a think about if this is worth while or you just want some bling.

Entry going in tomorrow morning

Would you be able to post up the web address for this guys site? Interested to see what other events hes been shooting at.

For my first event with SAU i had an awesome time. Was great to actually meet many of the people who until now have been just avatars to me on this forum! Special thanks to Brisby for helping me get my tires squealing around the track! Hopefully see many of you at the next round and/or if i can make it to deca. Also does anyone know who the dude was taking heaps of photos with the mega lensed camera? He may not of taken any photos of the DT group anyway but i would be interested to find out if he did.