moobaque

It shouldn't be hanging that low. Your actually meant to use the highest bolt possible underneath the bonnet catch and on a 33 the longer of the two brackets (it comes with a short bracket for 34s) then the pipe would sit exactly inline with the cross bar of the front bumper that has been hacked off. unseen!

The kits are about $1000 delivered from nengun (give or take with the exchange rate, just gota watch the prices) or you can buy one locally from dealers like autobarn but blitz australia expect to retail em for close to $1600 which is a joke so if your interested in one i would go down the import from japan path. The kits are great. they line up perfectly when the correct mounts are used (which hasn't happened with geraus) so the cooler should actually firstly sit straight but higher by another few centermeters. There is much debate over its whole turnpipe system being crap for airflow. Now for sure its not ideal, but neither is running an exit pipe (of cooled air) over the top of a hot engine which is what you have to do with all the other kits (except ARC). This completely defeats the purpose of having a better cooler. not to mention you have to remove your washer bottle, cut a nice big whole in your engine bay and trim your radiator fan blades. and yes they make em for 32's do a search there are a couple threads in relation to this cooler (such as mine linked in an earlier post) and i can think of at least 2 others that come up with useful info and pictures. Cam

quite possibly. i haven't looked at an rb20 motor to see if they use the same airflow meter. but if they don't it could be sending completely wrong voltages to the ecu which would definitely cause idling issues.

its not a resistance just a short. simple as that my boss kit came with a nice little loop back connector to plug in.

I thought so, and this will make your two side mounts work properly as well which will be the cause of your cooler leaning to one side also.

Could be your air flow meter is not working properly (that's asuming your setup is still using an airflow meter) are you using a nissan ECU or an aftermarket item? other possibility is the AAC valve is dirty..maybe.

Hey All, Just thought I might share my grief. Today i signed my life away to a new show at work. I'm only going to have monday's free for the next 7 months Don't think I will be doing any track days for a while.... Cam

OK so in addition to the install photies you will find in that thread a posted above here are a couple more shots now that i have pretty much finished my install (just some minor cosmetic work on the front bar) The shots are at night which is the only bad part, but they still do show how much you shouldn't see that cross pipe Cheers Camden

Maybe this is just something "special" about series 2's but i have the blitz lm on my S1 mspec and the cross pipe sits HIGHER than my front bar... meaning firstly you cant see it and secondly u wont hit it. i'll post a pic when i find one and maybe check out my install thread Blitz LM install there are some photies on page two of that topic, maybe see that you have used the correct bolt under the bonnet catch, coz it really does look too low. Oh and in reference to fixing up your front bar. best bet is to find a bumper refurbishment company. they will plastic weld that cut out section back on but this will require a respray. UPDATE: I just had a quick look over my old thread to remind myself of what pics were there and in reference to how much plastic i had to take out to make the endtanks and pipes fit... its alot more than pictured there. when i fitted the front bar back on properly with the reo back in place the bar pulled in so much closer to the fmic i prolly have taken out twice the amount of plastic that in shown in those pics.

That's one expensive fuel filter.... id stick with a ryco. i think it cost me $12 and it will be equal if not better quality than a nissan filter Sounds very strange that a Z145A wont fit. I haven't really had any dealings with the N/A RB's but i cant imagine they would use a different filter. There is a very high chance that the filter that is on your car currently should have its model stamped/painted on it somewhere. if you cant see anything from the top you might have to jack the car up and have a squiz from undernieth or maybe try using a mirror from the top? Cam

dude thats quite acceptable for a rb25 pfc. Specially considering it was via autobarn. Access Auto whom are the actual australian importer prolly couldn't do a better deal than that if they got there hands on a new one. all other models you can pick up for the $900-$1000 mark but you will always pay more now days for a rb25 model.

Yeah, Nissan would definitely have one.. in Japanese but the only english manual kicking around is engine & brakes only

i remember the day when my exhaust was that shiny .... then about a week later it was all gone... now a year later... its definitely all gone on the actual topic though. very strange you have movement in the exhaust. when mine fitted up it was seriously tight and wasn't going to be moving anywhere

As far as I'm aware there is so such thing as a workshop manual for the R33... only an engine manual. Which is hella annoying i must agree!

Alrighty then. Here are some picks of the process. I still haven't actually done anymore work on the car since i only picked up the new reo bar the other day (and work keeps getting in the way) but here is a few pics though the actually intercooler mounting process. How my car looked at the beginning The Car with Bumper, Grill and Reo removed Position for the central ic mouting bracket (for a 33 you use the longer bracket, only 34s use the short one) e) Passengers Side Bracket Drivers Side Bracket With The pipes attached Using up those stock holes! Center of my bumper cutout using a nice sharp industrial stanley knife Passengers side cutting to allow piping to fit against front bar (note: front bar is laying upside down) Drivers side cutting to allow end tank to fit against front bar (note: front bar is laying upside down) I haven't taken a photo of this as of yet but you also have to shave sections of the back of the fake driving lights (or they could be real in a few optioned S1 R33s) to fit around the end tanks. Will post up some pics soon of Reo bar mod situation. (when ever i get to do it) Cheers Camden