moobaque

Have been past both Supercheap, Autobarn and Bunnings today whom all only stocked automotive clips that i certainly use to find all the time in interiors of cars (tree design) but nothing of the type ive found holding on the outer components of my 33. will start visiting some smash repair places tomorrow (if i can be farked going out in the 40+ degree heat we are having in melbourne) Cheers Camden

Just a little update for people whom are interested. I started cutting up my series 1 m-spec front bar to fit around the cooler today and it has required a whole lot more modding than i expected (but have enjoyed the challenge..my hands haven't tho) Its really not hard but is hella time consuming. Ive certainly noticed that most pictures that have been posted of this cooler have been of people with series 2 vehicles which because of its design (and indicator placement) is prolly a heap easy than a series 1. once again i have been taking photos and will post up all that i have had to mod in more detail in the near future. I wont be cutting the reo until next week when i pick up a second hand one. going to keep my original reo in the event of defect! cheers Camden

i've placed 5 separate orders through nengun over the past 12months and have always got my delivery within 2-3 weeks which to me is quite exceptable from an importation company. When i purchased my defi guages and controller i think they arrived within 10days! they have always replied to my emails within 1-2 days. But yes i have heard that some people have been left waiting for long periods of time. I guess its up to how soon some people may require parts. But i can say they are a respectable company.

Yeah dude thats the right one. Not every Blitz LM is a return pipe design. It depends on the car. They are just all designed to use stock piping and on some vehicles that allows for it to be a straight through cooler. I think if you goto the blitz UK site there are pictures for most models. the Blitz Australia site im pretty sure had the 33 design pictured too. The ARC is also an excellent cooler but is slightly more expensive than the blitz.

awesome. i had figured that body shops would carry such things, but hopefully they don't ask some silly amount of money just coz they can

im lead to believe if u get it off a blitz australia retailer like autobarn u do get an english translated manual but u will pay about $1400 for the privelage (possibly more) i bought mine off nengun for $950. just need to pick the right time to purchase internationally as the price will change week to week on nengun. (sometimes day to day) u dont really need a manual tho. they do supplied pictures even if the captions are in japanese. and there are so few parts its pretty hard to get it wrong. i spend way more time getting the front bar and reo off. but ull have to work that out no matter what kit you get.

you do need to cut a bit on each side of the bottom of the reo. Your almost making the back of ur reo run in a straight line instead of a curve. I haven't done any mods to the reo yet as im grabbing a second hand one to mod and keeping my original as a spare. as for cooler choice, each to there own really. Im more of a fan of the turn pipe concept than cutting a hole in ur bay to have a pipe weave its way across ur engine bay which has two major problems. 1. with most the cheap kits u require cutting ur fan blades to fit the cross pipe. this can unweight ur fan and believe it or not will impact its air flow 2. ur running a huge surface area of pipe on top of a hot engine. the whole point is to keep air temp lower. as for price its not another $1000 on top of a cheap kit.. i go my whole kit landed in melbourne for $950

i've taken heaps of photies so far so ill post em up when i've completely finished

Hey all, If i had my car with me at the moment i would take a photo to show exactly what i am talking about, but having said that i'll try to explain... I'm wondering if anyone knows where to purchase the plastic screw in clips that hold a lot of the front bar into the reo bar ( on a series 1 R33 anyway) they same sort of concept also holds the plastic panels that sit just in front of your front wheels. I guess over the years many of mine had become quite brittle and on removal of my front bar and the like to install a fmic today, i few got broken. Also i'm in melbourne thanks Camden

Hey all, I've pretty much finished mounting my blitz lm fmic on a S1 R33. but i just wanted to confirm a couple things with some people who have also done this install. Am i correct in saying the 2 smallest bolts supplied are not needed (used only for R34) i think they are an M6 x 8mm And am i also correct in saying that no nut and bolt is supplied to attach the bracket that helps support the cross pipe that runs under the cooler? (coz i certainly didn't and nothing on the checklist in the manual seems to indicate this either) Thanks Camden

its the motor. There is a big nylon cog inside the motor which over time the teeth start to break. It goes down coz gravity helps it but on the way up its slipping. (prolly makes a disgusting noise too) this is also why the motor doesn't stop at the top as the relay cuts when the motor hits a certain load caused by the window physically not being able to go any further. this doesn't happen coz the cog is slipping if u want a genuine new motor off nissan they want $450 (the stupid option ) i think when i called around for mine most wreckers sold em from $90 to $150. im also lead to believe there is a place in preston that sells a different motor that fits with the correct plug attached. Cant remember its name off the top of my head but if do a search you should find the thread when i asked pretty much the same question. Cheers Camden

Sup all, Am chasing a unmodified, un-crashed series 1 reo bar for an r33. Don't care what colour coz u cant see it anyway. would be most preferable if its in melb so i can check it out but am open to any location really. thanks Camden

dont mean to highjack ur thread but prolly a better place than starting another one. this could just be coincidence but ever since ive had my power fc installed my a/c ONLY pushes out cold air if its set to 18. then from 19-22 it pushes hot air out the top vents, 23 onwards hot air at ur feet no matter wat the ambient temp is.. tis hella anoying

id be making sure that your timing belt, tensioner and water pump had got replaced at its 100,000k service...otherwise that would be the very first thing i would do before potentially giving that vehicle more power considering its kms.

obviously there were differences in front bar design between series 1 and 2 but considering we are talking about a reo that has been chopped up a bit would a s2 reo work on my s1 ppl? i guess as long as the bolt on points didnt change on the chassis rails and the front bar curve wasnt to far difference this might work out?

Working at Hamer Hall till prolly 1am ish... then a drive down the mornington peninsula to a mates holiday house to drink away what night ive got left

When the V35 was first released and i just saw photos of them i wasnt that impressed the with new styling. but in recent times ive seen some in the flesh (there is a importer out dandenong way that had heaps of em) i recon they look awesome! good choice man the car looks sweat. now all u need is a twin turbo setup welcome btw

Buying ones not a prob i've already scored a new kit for $950 but im just trying to get myself sorted for the install whilst i wait for its arrival from japan.... was a really silly time of year to expect something to internationally frieghted... but the exchange rate was good at the time. like I posted before im real keen on seeing how people have gone about moding the reo bar. for instance has it just been the lower section removed or has the very top needed to have a section notched out etc etc. Im certainlly sure that there are a hell of a lot of ppl on here who have just removed there reo all together which really doesnt flick my switch. I still want to have some crash protection and kind of like my front bar sitting flush with the lights

no ones ever taken a photo of a GTR reo before?

Sorry to bring up a thread from so long ago but im about to install one of these kits real soon on my series 1 r33 I've found plenty of peoples pics of there intercoolers mounted but i would love to see how much or preferably how little people have had to chop up there series 1 reo bars. and what also seems very odd is i would asume most of you have used the supplied brackets yet many of the coolers are sitting much higher / lower on certain peoples cars. (how obvious the return pipe underneither is) Cheers Camden

Hey all, i have a leaking return hose on my power steering reservior so im going to need to remove all the fluid to chuck in a new one. My only problem is i have no idea how to drain / refill the power steering system and get rid of any air. Everything that comes up on a search has just said remove fluid in reservior with a syringe and then top up... but i need to fully empty my system. Surely it cant be that hard but neither the r33 engine manual or handbook that came with the car tells you anything useful. help would be much appreciated thanks Camden

On a track like Sandown my oil gets upto 120C it would probably get hotter but thats my cue to come off.

Hey all, I'm just curious in the design of the GTR front reo bar as its obviously been built strong enough to meet safety regs but allows for a front bar to have a big enough opening for the stocko fmic. Am looking to install a fmic in my gtst but am quite keen on engineering / having engineered a modified reo concept so that my chassis still takes the impact if i put the car into the wall... Cheers Camden

But there are 2 bolt holes in cams certified brackets....

Have you done a track day since you've done this install? Im sure the scrutineers prolly never check how safely your fire extinguisher is mounted in your car but i highly doubt thats exceptable. There is to much wieght hanging on a single point of attachment. under a collision i can see the weight of that extinguisher bending the sheeeet out of those wobly alloy brackets. Worse case senario it snaps all together. The brackets require both mouting points to be used to keep its integrity. and 2 points of attachent almost means safety if one fails.