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Best wheel size for performance imo is the stockies. When I had my Z I had 18's. I chucked on stockies and the car felt faster and lighter.

Its my brothers car. I had to test it on his as he took my white cam covers no fan shroud cause front end got hit and yeah long story lol.

Hey guys, not the most spectacular mod, but I like it. I bought a bumper grill from supercheap auto, got my jigsaw and went to town on the valley cover. I cut the grill to size and sikaflexed it from behind (this stuff doesn't mess around) then gave it a coat with primer and matt black with cheap as hell spray paint. Grill $30 (got tons left) Primer + matt black $8 each Sikaflex $17 Might have been over kill but its good shit.

yeah im broke as f**k. Wont be able to buy until next pay anyways as ive only got $40 on me...

Hey guys, just wondering if anyone has any old radiator hoses they are willing to sell for cheap? Need both top and bottom ones.

Ill buy one tomorrow She starts first go and idles without any issues. When I get the gun ill get the timing spot on (I hope)

Good point. When I was checking for spark I did notice the coils with no spark plug plugged arcing out onto the coil bracket. Ive always wanted to do an external coil pack conversion might give me an excuse to do it. I just assumed the arcing was due to no spark plug in them and the spark had to go somewhere.

Hey guys, I finally managed to get my engine running. Took me ages to get the timing marks spot on but I freaking did it. The block is N/A, got a turbo head and am running turbo injectors, The intake cam is from an N/A (are they the same?) and running a series 1 TPS and using a turbo ECU. Oh, also using an N/A zorst manifold because I dont have a dump pipe yet for my turbo and the N/A mani has an o2 sensor on it. I have a turbo gear to go on it but still waiting for some parts to arrive. My question is, because its an odd setup, what would be the best timing for it? I dont have a timing gun to check what the timing is like, but to me it sounds like its breaking down when I rev it. Spot the fire hazards...

This stupid thing movies around to much. Any tips on bolting it so its 100% accurate so I can do the belt correctly?

As title. Can these things circled be replaced? its an s13 bracket. Long story...

Can anyone else confirm? Im doing the same thing. Series 1 TPS on Series 2 wiring.

OK cool. Thanks for the help guys, also found the solenoid. Was still bolted to the aac have no idea how I didn't see it before.

Thanks for the post. Its a great help and yeah, its an r33 25. Thanks guys, love this forum.

Now there's a solenoid? lol damn I cant take pics as the car is at my brothers work shop but googling around, the plug im missing is blue. The plug that goes into the AAC is purple (have that plugged in) and there is a brown plug I have nfi where it goes. Im guessing that's for the solenoid? Stupid car.... My sister has a Series 2 R33 and is bone stock. I think im going to have a look at it and see what im missing. I think I have that solenoid in my parts bin somewhere...

OK sweet, I thought it was something like that. If thats all it is ill just run 12v to it from ign.

OK, so can I hard wire it in instead? I had a look at the ECU pinout and it doesnt mention it. I have another harness lying around and I think it has it but the plug has been torn off...

Ive been doing an rb25 into s13 conversion on and off for a while now. Im putting the harness in but I cant seem to find the air regulator plug. I know of the AAC plug (the purple one) but cant find the other one. Is it part of a separate harness?

I couldnt find another cap so I found a rubber grommet that fits perfectly and sits just below the overflow hose hole.. I glued it in with Sikaflex will see how it goes once its dry. Good point about the guy at Nissan just grabbing any cap.

Its a brand new cap from Nissan. Ive even checked in car shops for other caps and they are all the same size. Its so weird...have even compared with a mates Skyline cap and it looks the same. Ill see if I can just buy a longer one or use a washer or something.

I tested for exhaust gases and it was fine. The car also runs perfect engine doesn't miss a beat.

Nah dont have to press down at all. Just put on and twist. The cap is definitely for the car as I asked for it at the Nissan dealership.

Great, thanks for the replies and yeah when I squeeze the hoses there is coolant going back and fourth.

OK, from my understanding, the radiator cap is meant to seal the radiator and when there is to much pressure, it pushes the radiator cap spring and releases some pressure and then it seals again. Correct? Problem I am having is that the coolant is getting dumped into the overflow before pressure builds up. It dumps the entire contents of the rad into the overflow and then pisses out. When the engine cools down, it sucks it back in but leaving it dry as most of it has pissed out on the road. The car doesn't over heat when this happens Just the smell of coolant and a kettle sound. The temp stays on half. Ive done a gas test and it shows no problems there. I bought a genuine Nissan rad cap and it still does it. I took the radiator to a specialist and he reckons that the radiator cap is 2mm to short and isn't even making a seal and insists that the cap is the wrong one. This doesnt sound right so I thought id ask what you guys think. Im thinking of getting a big washer and gluing it into the radiator neck so the bottom of the cap makes contact. Advice??

I love it

Hey guys, sorry for an old thread bump, but I also need this part for a freddy intake manifold