Gameboy

Hey guys, this might sound stupid but im confused about the 3rd step. It says to loosen the bolts but do I loosen them in the order shown? or do I loosen them in the order shown in the head bolt removal section?

Genuine Nissan brand new Oil Pump 15010 24U01 $200 Genuine Nissan brand new water pump (sorry no pic and cant remember part number but its got it on the box , can take pic if needed) $200 RB25DET head modified to fit RB30 Block with VCT oil feed re routed. No pic but will take if requested) $200 Cometic RB30 87mm C4323-051 Head Gasket $200 Intake manifold gasket suit for rb25 (no packaging) $10 Exhaust manifold gasket mg3042 for rb25 $20 Intake manifold gasket set GSMS3227D rb25 $20 Also have a running unlicensed Auto RB0 VL Commodore. Steering column is f**ked . Drivers door needs replacing. It drives. $500.

Yeah long story car has been off the road more than on.

Yeah its been an on going issue. I have checked it with the consult cable and had no errors come up. Checked all the vac lines, checked tps, pcv. She did get a new timing belt installed at Jap performance a while ago and the hunting went away for a while and then came back. Shit..hope the hunting doesn't return lol.

Long story short, Sisters R33 S2 has been hunting for a few years and slowly getting worse to the point that it stalls but only when it warms up. She decided to buy a tunable ECU and get the tuner to fix hunting issue before getting it tuned. Ordered Power FC, it arrived and I installed it in her car. Turn car on, it sounded better than it has ever sounded. Jumped in it, took it for a drive, felt great. Had more power, hardly back fired, was like a different car. Got to operating temp, not hunting, no stalling, idle was rock solid. Gave it a big rev, let revs drop, didnt go lower than 900rpm. Bloody awesome. My sister is over the f**king moon With original ECU, the car is undrivable once car hits operating temp. What could have caused the ECU to become so corrupt? So strange.

Sup fellas, My niece has an r34 sedan and she would like to know where the best place place to get a deck, front, rear and amp bought and installed. The car is immaculate and don't want stuff to be snapped, scratched or become loose. If it was my car I would do it my self and hope for the best but because its not my car and knowing me, I might break something and will get my ass kicked. Ive never taken a car to get gear installed so would like to know your experiences with car audio installers around Perth.

I can understand how annoying it is to having to listen to buzz boxes keeping you up at night. There was a time my neighbors kid would drive his loud poxy WRX up and down the street non stop. He would leave for a few minutes, pull up in the drive way, idle for 5 minutes with his stereo on and then piss off just to do it again. Once he did this from 10pm, to 4am. I shit you not. I was pissed off. I wanted to follow him one night and drive him off the f**king road so he hit a tree and die. People imagine some pretty messed up stuff when they are annoyed and angry doesn't mean that they will do it. Its just a release and sometimes saying it or fantasizing it removes the need to do it in real life.

Do you know if VCT can be used with it?

What are peoples thoughts on using an rb20det ECU with nistune on a series 2 rb25de+t?

How about just sell the car and buy a non turbo one.

ive put it on hold as the timing belt snapped and bent valves. Not while running, just turning over with starter.

well guys no point in this thread anymore as the timing belt snapped and bent valves. Shit happens. I got the engine for free anyway but still f**ked...back to my original plan now. Time to save for my forgies and finally finish my 25/30 build.

The engine change was piss, its just making everything else fit. I honestly don't know if the r34 exhaust will fit (and yeah from the cat back) I haven't seen if it will fit yet. EDIT: unrelated question, are knock sensors needed to start the engine? I cant seem to find the harness.

Hey guys, I just put the rb25de into my S13 and was thinking of welding up an r34 turbo exhaust system to it (sitting in my shed) How do you think this would go? obviously its designed for a turbo motor but by rights it should flow pretty well on an rb25de and be nice and quite? or would this just be fail?

I just want it to be safe but if I can get it to be safe with even more power, than thats ok to Removed the old shitty CA last night will start putting the 25 in tonight. Its to freakin hot to do it during the day Also, anyone who has done a rb in a sil kept the A\C? I love my A\C. Yeah not using stock turbo. Will def get it tuned and might look into e85. I dont drive much so I dont mind the extra fuel consumption.

Nah dont plan to push it hard but then again, whats considered pushing it? Id be happy with 230hp tbo. I know its a non turbo motor so im not expecting crazy figures. Anything would be better than the non turbo ca18 thats in there atm lol

Hey guys, my funds have dried up for my 30 build but I got a free rb25de + manual and am going to drop it in my sil Im planning on bolting all my turbo gear and hope for the best. ECU is going to be a z32, Nistune and will get it tuned. What would you say would be the safest power I can get from it? Id be pretty happy with 240 - 260hp.

Couldn't you get sleeves made up to slip into the head bolt holes so you can just use rb25 ones?

Hmm I will need to do something similar to the Silvia. They are some pretty hardcore looking spacers.

Wow I wish I didnt read this thread as now im nervous about my build.

Yeah going back to the idea of forgies. Saving up will give me extra time to do even more research and learn a little more about oil pressure (something I dont know that much about)

I got a flat head screw driver and got it in between the oil pump and the gear and just slowly twisted the screw driver until I saw the gear budge and then did it on the other side. Kept doing this until there was enough space for the pulley puller claws to fit. Came right off without any dramas

Yeah I already have an N1 oil and water pump but when I saw the shit that was in the block, it made me think that even if I did buy a running rb30 I dont know what the previous owner has dumped in it. Im not going to bolt brand new stuff on an engine based on what the guy I buy it off tells me. The guy I bought this engine from told me it had under 200,000k on it and he only took it out of his VL because he bought an Rb25 for it. I don't think so. I always thought getting it honed and bored were the same thing? If it needs it ill get it done and ill ask the the shop what else I need to do. Still tearing this thing down and so far im feeling pretty good about putting it back together. I have the work shop manual and its helped me out a ton. And yeah, mainly track car. I would love to see 500hp from this thing but ill be happy with what ever the tuner does as he would know best.

OK so my mind keeps changing with this thing lol. I called an engine reco place and they told me to clean it its going to cost me $60 and to get it decked $88. They will also check if it needs a rehone. I think I might just freshen up the bottom end with new rings and bearings and save some dosh for a good clutch.

Well I dont need it asap as its for a track car. Maybe ill save some dosh and do it properly.