MBS206

Double sided tape one to the E34!

Could screw the headlights washers there too...

It would be harder to drop the tank of fuel, then plug in a cable and hit "load tune". The difference is, the change you are saying you'd do only removes the easiest part of the whole operation...

E30 and E85 will both be reacting with whatever they can. One just has a little less in it and will take a little longer for you to see the things it's reacting with. Plenty of replacement stuff out there that's ethanol friendly, and then it won't matter what Ex blend you run once you do a full flex tune. Also fill flex would still be beneficial to you, even for the minor % changes down at E30.

The issue still requires a human to get all the logic right, and each thing being done takes up processing power. Meaning less processing power for other tasks to occur too. It also typically means a team of size 10, is working one everything, vs 5x teams of 3 working on separate products, so less man power to review and perfect it all. That's the typical issue of AIO. It's also why manufacturers of cars even split tasks out into separate systems, and share data as required

Sometimes a piece of hardware built to do one job excellently, can be better than a piece of hardware trying to do 20 jobs "well enough".

I've got 15 year old tyres on a car in my garage, holding air (holding it better than the daily driver does!) and no signs of rotting/cracking/drying out. Oh, and they've only been garaged the last 3. Before that they sat in a couple of different paddocks/yards, and even spent about a week underwater too. However, weather and other environmental factors can really change how quickly they start to dry out and crack.

The moment I read "never brought in the 1 child policy like China" I was ready to send a reply "it's what they use the second child in china for..." Ha ha ha I can tell how quickly your brain squirrels 😛

It's also the reason neither Duncan or I can own a car rotisserie

The correct PPE is to get one of the kids to spin it while you film from a safe distance...

When they're so hard you can't leave a black mark or make any smoke...

Re read everything that has been written about this in this thread.. Let us know if you're still confused.

Well, can you still get an OEM pump, and by the time you're buying a Nismo/N1 etc, just buy another aftermarket pump. It's better to have the pump able to flow more if its needed, than for your pressure to drop off. At any point in time, you're replacing the oil pump in a rebuild. Aftermarket pumps are likely going to be a better economical choice, and they don't have any negatives, even if they can flow more. Also, when you're saying "replace the pump gears" are you meaning leave a 25+ year old housing in the engine with unknown wear, and just put new gears in? As that sounds silly to me, especially if you do have that minute amount of wear, that means your new pump gears now have a little bit more clearance beside them, which means, whelp, you may not get to build a lot of oil pressure or make a lot of flow.

Strength. And on the early RB26, full engagement of the pump drive.

I agree on doing some better than factory pistons, rods, and oil pump. For anyone using the vehicle on the road, I don't get why everyone wants big cams. The stock cam profile, with some more lift would be mint for road usage. Everyone going big cams and then wondering why it isn't as responsive in traffic, when they've shifted the torque curve upwards an additional 1000RPM. Make torque, at lower RPM. Sure it's not as cool as claiming "500KW" and revving it to 8,0000RPM, but that same torque 2,000RPM earlier... Then you don't need the extremely high end pistons and rods, and blah blah blah.

Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively. Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.

Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛

If a second hand 200 series is anything to go by, well, I'm not sure you even need Nissan to close to call it a classic...

I never noticed a difference between mine being on or off in terms of sound etc. It isn't on the bonnet like dynamat etc. The main difference I can see it "potentially" doing is keeping some of the engine bay heat off the bonnet on the outside. So really, at most, it might be protecting the paint the tiniest bit. But there are plenty of examples out there where people have removed it, and it doesn't hurt the paint work.

Give you $100.00 for it...

I went from stupid 600+HP setup, to an NA Barra in mine...

It's all the sound deadening, and extra shit piled into them, plus all the extra (even though it's thinner) material for crumple zones. I can't fathom in modern cars why they need canbus to the headlights, and why the headlights must be vin coded on some cars to the ECU, BCM, and security module! Especially when they claim it's for security, yet, the canbus at the headlights let's thieves steal the car in minutes, so even more cars are being stolen! The Mercedes Sprinter 907 vans. They're a huge van, but a "basic" van. Yet they have that many canbus networks, plus two Lin networks, AND an Ethernet network. Logging a single network alone of 8 byte data frames, and they will generate a 20mb log file in 5 minutes. That's one network, and I can't remember the exact amount, but there's over 10 full CAN2.0B networks in them. I'm not a fan of modern cars, oddly, more and more I hate DBW, and all the bullshittery the cars try and interfere with. But all that bullshittery adds weight, plus crazy regulations on crumple zones, plus, ever picked a modern seat up, half of them have like 4 electric motors in them and will weigh 30+kg each. Then all the motors for things like adjustable steering columns blah blah blah. And did I mention the sound deadening so you can even hear an ambulance right behind you even if you 7.2surround sound is off?

Stock R33 except for suspension, tyres, brakes, and seats is a great ride. Get that power up around the 200mark, and it's great and reliable.

Here's the funny thing, my EV isn't that much heavier than its petrol variant. (1773 vs 1510). An R32 GTR is 1430... AND it puts all of the weight in the lowest location. So that's taking some higher up weight, and getting it lower, and all added weight lower. That gives a really nice low CG, and means it doesn't body roll that bad too... The one I'm driving is a Kona, and for a soccer mum SUV on cheapo tyres (not my choice), she'll hold the road surprisingly well. The only part that you've got to be aware of for cornering, is that at 80kmh it will still break into wheel spin, and if you lift off, regen breaking hits in hard. Hence in sports mode, I have regen breaking dialled back to its lightest setting without being off, other wise it's really jerky to drive if you want to roll out of the power a little.

There was a few times that 150m marker nearly got to exit the chat 😛