MBS206

I thought you didn't let mechanics, especially those with no idea, work on your car any more? Wouldn't that mean it won't be an issue in your case?

Magnetic drain plugs are fine. Just don't buy cheap shit ones. They're actually better than letting magnetic shit float around in your oil. The magnet also didn't just "fall out". OP was drilling the plug out which allowed it to come out. Even some OEM plugs are magnetic.

Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!

Just went reading. They have a "rotator" air point that the line connects to. Gets mounted to the middle of the rim. And they air up and down while in motion.

Does that hose stay connected while driving? 😮 That setup wouldn't last in 4WD life, ha ha. I'm just picturing how many people would cut those hoses too if it were on a 4WD parked at Woolworths, ha ha! Yes, tHere's lots of grubs in society.

I believe Unimog is the only vehicle that has it (from the manufacturer). I haven't seen aftermarket permanently connected kits, but I haven't looked either.

Ha ha ha, can't overthink when exhausted... Oh how I wish I had that power! I can be absolutely dead set shot, and my brain will still go "we need a good 3 or 4 hours to just think about everything and anything before you may sleep... My biggest thing is making sure I give myself enough sleep. I don't operate on even 7 hours of sleep! I attempt to give my body 9.5hours sleep a night to be able to function. I don't sleep the whole 9.5, but I need to make sure I offer a big window. I also take a single supplement, which is to help with long term health, and fighting inflammation, and I notice it helps massively. Especially me sleeping, and just less "achey" in the body. Have also kicked sugar, and gluten. A majority of people with ADHD don't go well with gluten. It causes a really interesting natural opioid overdose in the brain, which causes bodily issues and sensory issues.

Yep. But typically that's just run a hose down to the tyre while stationary. Oh and the Unimog will automatically air up and air down tyres from the onboard computer for you too.

It's actually really good advice. And I do try to do it. I actually have 2x 3KG dumbbells that sit right beside where I sit. And I look at them a lot. Use them a little. But I'm trying to do more with it. At the moment I'm going through a heap of weight loss too which will help. I cracked into the 85kg mark this week. My weight used to have me sit consistently between 93 to 95KG! That definitely doesn't help. I've also got POTS, which flared up after I got slapped with COVID a few weeks back, and POTS really smashes fatigue and stuff into you, and has a thing even called "excercise fatigue". Basically even the minorest "excercise" (walking from the garage to the house) causes fatigue! And one of the treatments (Other than a med I'm on) is also... Excercise... Ha ha ha So it's why I'm trying to play the game of "might as well" and trying to push through things. For ADHD specifically, the general recommendation is "excercise". When you dig deep into it though, while any excercise is good, the best type is "explosive" excercise. So training for a sport like squash, tennis, even soccer. Things where you need to get the whole body able to "explode" into a different direction change. They've found with explosive sports, (I can't think of the proper term they have for it) that it actually makes the brain grow and become bigger in specific areas. The areas where ADHD causes those parts of the brain to be smaller than normal! But definitely, trying to push myself, and break those bounds mate, and get healthier!

Knowing how slow their other compressors are that connect to the cars battery, you'd want to hope it's one hell of a slow leak!

Yep, I got the pedal, it was a huge thing I made sure I got for it. I have the CigWeld 205ACDC, with all the parts for it. Yes, Benny is good friends with Tony who owns it. I work across the car park from it. We presently have the Clio in our workshop. I met Benny for the first time a couple of weeks ago, nice guy! Was he at MSR with you? I know he worked recently on one of the V8s entered in as a wildcard.

That shed is wicked mate! I should come for a drive out to see the setup one day! Maybe you can give me some pointers to improve my terrible TIG welding while I'm there! Ha ha ha Nice to see some work on the 15 happening

My TIG likes to remind me I need more practise on the TIG. Especially Aluminium. My mild steel TIG isn't terrible (I'm not writing home about it either, but it at least doesn't just look like gooey metal)

No longer need the BOC account. It's all swap and go now from Bunnings/ToolShops. A fair bunch of the time I'm running my 180 on lower settings, and I'll run it on a 15amp to 10amp converter cable. When I need to ramp it up, I presently have 1x15A GPO and I move over to that socket with everything.

Thanks for asking the question we were all thinking!

Ignore the BOV / recirc valve question. You have an NA and shouldn't have one. If there magically is one though... It should be removed, though it shouldn't really effect it in the way one will for a turbo motor with it venting to atmosphere while running an afm.

I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.

Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines. TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.

I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛

Also check the factory 2 wire coolant sensor is functioning properly and plugged in. Ignore the dash, the dash uses a different temp sensor.

One hundred percent! Stock.... Take! It's your final parting gift from them! 😛 How warm can those ovens go? Can you get to 250c? If it can, please acquire two. I'll take one for powder coating... 😛

It still doesn't matter to the eye of the law. It's all those annoying grey areas. Engineer the car under a specific area, but that same thing is still illegal elsewhere. Hence, still not legal.

You'll need to put your acquisitions hat on Mark, especially on your last day. Acquisitions really is a great talent of defence personnel

The funny part is, an engineer's cert still doesn't actually make the car legal. Interesting part on that IE, even some cars from the factory are defectable as they sit in the showroom. So even stock doesn't mean legal.

And you can then legally not use your indicator too! 😛