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MBS206

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Everything posted by MBS206

  1. Your back garage, second shelf from the bottom?
  2. After I win the lottos... So sounds like Samsonas, valve springs, a new bigger turbo, and maybe a super charger like all the school kids are dreaming of for twin charging, and you'll have the perfect daily driver. Oh, and maybe Bosch motorsport ABS for you too.
  3. Hopefully that's not too confusing for the PoPo in Canada! Mr Plod even thinking you had Nitrous plumbed in on the street in Australia would lead to a 7-10 year stint in maximum security...
  4. My embedded systems thoughts have me sitting with GTS on this. Variation between same phone hardware, should be small. However, the internal "intensity" or "volume" amount that say Google passes to the app, will be quite different, as the underlying hardware will be passing different levels for the same volume to the Google OS. Until the app creator has had each individual phone, and set benchmarks and calibrations for each, the amount of error can be quite huge. It can even be observed by using different phones, recording the same noise, and then playing it back, they end up soon ding different. A big reason for it, is even the different types of mics used in phones have different responses, and different frequency ranges. Then you need to get into the DSP, and the variations in those, their sample rates which then effect their frequency range, and then the quality of the DSP, and what type of hardware conversion they do to for the ADC within the DSP. Oh, and let's not forget at the low level phones are designed to cutout loud sounds. It's one of the reasons they suck in really loud environments (eg concerts). The louder you yell, the more you'll get cutout too Note DSP is Digital Signal Processor ADC is the analogue to data converter. I don't have any real data on what the variation would truly be, however, chat GPT says in general, their output is typically between +/-2dB to +/-5dB of what you're really measuring. So realistically, anything from 4 to 10dB variation is possible even with the same devices.
  5. Even in cars with factory ECU, but tuned like yours, I can sense/pickup the delay still. It's small, but I find it's still there. And it changes the throttle feel too, especially on that first little bit of pickup from just touching the throttle, to getting it to crack open, at least on a mechanical pedal you can feel that tiny bit of slack you're about to take up, and then know immediately you're now in the point of throttle opening. I know many people don't notice or feel it, but 100% my brain can perceive that minor delay. And it's there, we'd actually be able to measure it too! It's still small, but just something I personally dislike. For driving on the road in the daily, unlike GTS, I'm happy to keep ABS, and traction control. Most stability control systems though can go EAD. I find they're only good if your immediate instinct isn't to try and catch the loss of stability, or worse, when it gets over zealous and you werent actually unstable, but now it kicking in has become dangerous!
  6. Ha ha ha! You'll hate most cars, especially as a daily with all their beeping and booping and trying to constantly adjust everything because "we're smart, and we think we can work out what you want" except they don't understand, when previously you opened the throttle to 60% and it was fun and quick and gave plenty of power, just because you've driven sedately for the last 2 weeks, doesn't mean you want less performance, or you don't want the gearbox to go back a gear like it did last time you were at 60% throttle! Even the EV Kona I had did this sort of bullshit, and that's even if you last drove it hard in sports mode, and then pandered it in eco, then put it back in sports mode for the blat, it would be really soft in sport mode for the first few heavy hits of the throttle, and then it would really start to crisp the throttle up. It made it stupidly frustrating when daily driving it! Plus all the new electronic steering systems that are so delayed, and I haven't found a single production vehicle with electronic throttle I've been satisfied with, all because the ECU gets to choose how much throttle you're really getting and that means, there is going to be delays.
  7. $40k and the indicators don't even work! I'm very much wanting something like DCT for a daily, but with a clutch pedal for takeoffs. As it's pretty darn hard for an ECU to know what I'm wanting in a take off with bugger all variation in throttle input. I'd also for the most part be wanting it purely flappy paddle. Or a fully programmable controller I could teach what I want later on. And for race car stuff, I can dream of a sequential. But I don't live in that financial world. 😛 DCT with NZ V12... Now are we putting something like an attessa drive line in too, or sticking RWD, or do you have some other sorts of thoughts on the driven wheel combo you want?
  8. I honestly don't know any automatic that mid term is great on a race track. It seems a VERY common thing for the people running any auto, even the "good ones" to pull them out and rebuild/refresh them after a couple of rounds of racing, and even then, still gearbox issues will arise. With all the tiny passages and components in them, and the amount of stuff that can wear, and the way they build heat by nature, they just start to eat themselves as they go. I know one of the newer Mercs even runs a wet clutch instead of a torque converter to help this, and that's just for their street car. I'm not sure what the ZF8 uses though (TC or wet clutch)
  9. I suspect with the way your tank is, your fuel filter will be clogging/clogged, or purely not working at all. I honestly wouldn't be surprised if someone hasn't put the fuel lines the wrong way too, and the filter is now in the return...
  10. Look, let's be honest, 20 years ago, people in Australia were doing the same, except it wasn't Japanese brands, it was old Holden and Fords. They're a different breed of people buying these cars now, compared to how we view them.
  11. How you pulled your fuel filter and split it open to take a look inside of it?
  12. If the GTR keeps climbing to ridiculous out of control prices, it will drag the GTST up as time goes on. Those who cant drop silly $ on the GTR, will then start to drop big $ on the GTST.
  13. So swap an appreciating asset, for a depreciating asset? Also, there's a build on here where someone is towing there bike to the track using an R33...
  14. Is Samsonas really Nissan though... So really, you're just donating to the fun and happiness gods...
  15. Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done... And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?
  16. And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car. Because race car, and wanting the lightness. At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards
  17. OR, Tell the Motec to STFU, you said shift, so try shifting! But then yes, I agree, more sensors needed to. Put either a wheel speed sensor, or a diff speed sensor on it. Then get an input shaft speed sensor too. (I say input shaft speed, and not engine RPM). This way, you can now also log and see if the clutch is slipping (RPM, vs input shaft speed), and you can calculate gear (Input shaft speed / Output shaft speed). At least then if the gear position sensor fails you have a backup. And realistically, the Motec should only worry about what gear you're in for the parts where I'm assuming you have some power management strategies in it for the lower gears. (IE, lower boost, maybe different throttle curves, different ignition curves, etc etc). But it should stop it shifting. Pull the flappy, that f**ker should just attempt the motion! Heck, even on a sequential like on a motorbike, you can keep trying to kick it up a gear all you want, the physically part of the box takes care of not being able to loop the whole way around the box! Only part you'd have to worry is how it gets to reverse. But that's on the driver... An R32 shouldn't be so smart as to try and override the driver on a gear shift
  18. Very nice! But skid vids not loading...
  19. Any idea why the shifter stopped working randomly, but would start working and then stop again on the next lap?
  20. What did he print it from? Need to be aware if the fuel will react / break it down.
  21. Since you pulled the pump out to siphon things, I'd start super simple, and make sure the lid is plugged in, and that the wires are going down to the fuel pump all plugged in and connected.
  22. You know you're really old when the dementia kicks in over text...
  23. I've always work on a 5% variation being acceptable in a petrol engine. Google reckons 10%. You could see if any of the translated service manuals give a factory allowance too. As GTS pointed out, new is also a chunk higher too. The real question is, how is the vehicle running? If it's running great, who cares!
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