MBS206

Stop looking at the garage floor, and turn the radio up a bit louder if there's any strange noises...

See, I find that hilarious, as I've seen them do so much stupid things (BMW and Merc) with electric faults. Yet the C63 race car has half the modules pulled out, a bunch of fuses and wiring cut, and, it just runs happily! We can even pull the ABS module or fuse, and it's totally happy!

*cough* pull the ABS fuse *cough*

Could you put a real seat and harness in instead of what looks like leaving your passenger balancing on a milk crate

Photo quality is terrible, but there's a few things on that board that give me suspicions it has some issues. Add to that, I'm hoping the cut and exposed wires under the dash were not exposed or touching each other before you pulled that all apart.

I agree with everything else, except (and I'm rethinking this as it wasn't setup how my brain first though) if the sensor is at the end of a hose which is how it has been recommended to isolate it from vibrations, then if that line had a small hole in, I could foresee potentially (not a fluid dynamic specialist) the ability for it to see a lower pressure at the sensor. But thinking through, said sensor was in the actual block, HOWEVER it was also the sensor itself that broke, so oil pressure may not have been fully reaching the sensor still. So I'm still in my same theory. However, I 100% would be saying COOL THE OIL DOWN if it's at 125c. That would be an epic concern of mine. Im now thinking as you did Brad that the knock detection is likely due to the bearings giving a bit more noise as pressure dropped away. Kinkstah, drop your oil, and get a sample of it (as you're draining it) and send it off for analysis.

The oil pressure sensor for logging, does it happen to be the one that was slowly breaking out of the oil block? If it is,I would be ignoring your logs. You had a leak at the sensor which would mean it can't read accurately. It's a small hole at the sensor, and you had a small hole just before it, meaning you could have lost significant pressure reading. As for brakes, if it's just fluid getting old, you won't necessarily end up with air sitting in the line. Bleed a shit tonne of fluid through so you effectively replace it and go again. Oh and, pay close attention to the pressure gauge while on track!

Solution, run shitter tyres. Let wheel spin be your weak link 😛

Murray has the right idea! Or just pretend you're a tow truck driver, they drive around as if it's a race track. Pads will be bedded in in no time! Or you'll arrive at an accident scene quickly...

Also, if you didn't machine or replace rotors, it will make it harder to bed the new pads properly. It is something I'll advised to do. And yes, I've done it many times before, and will likely do it again, so no judgement here if you didn't replace or machine the rotors.

Biggest thing is you're okay! It sounds like between the accident, and the drive home, it was a pretty torturous trip again! On the bright side, you took the opportunity to enjoy the event more from the perspective of a spectator, than as an entrant! Sad to see so much damage to the car. It really has taken a HUGE hit in the front end. If/when you choose to repair, hopefully the rails are straight (At least from shock tower backwards). Hopefully the extra cage coming through there has save most of the chassis rails, and HOPEFULLY saved the motor too. Best of luck when you eventually get motivated to start pulling it down to check it all out

Sounds more like what Brad said, that it's mainly transfer. What pad bed in procedure did you use, and did you replace/machine the rotors, or just swap pads?

What bedding in procedure did you use? When you say stutter, what exactly do you mean? Like it feels like someone letting go of the brakes momentarily and regrabbing them again to get you to stop? Re-reading your post, and that is what it kind of makes me think you're explaining, like theres a little bit of a jolt, likely just as you're reaching a stop. I've only had this issue once. And if its caused by what caused mine, you will want to get the car up on stands again and check it over. Mine was a case of a caliper mounting bolt coming out and letting the caliper rotate on the other remaining bolt and gave play in a wheel as it came to a stop. But not every stop either!

How does dead head help with emissions? Is it being claimed for emissions because fuel in the tank isn't being heated up by being pumped around, hence should condense more? One part that is a negative about dead head is heating the fuel at the rail a lot more (IE heat soaking at traffic lights) and this causing lean outs on takeoff afterwards. If my thoughts above are correct, I wonder how different the tail pipe emissions become with the lean outs vs less fuel tank emissions into a charcoal canister

Plus, being such a tiny car, parking it more side on would make it easier for the general public to see a car is actually parked there.

I went and found the actual FSM again (Yeah, I squirreled...) Screen grab of the FSM for M35. 51PSi with engine idling.

I thought the same too, and more than happy for others to bring another source for what it is. Just throwing so me caution out there, as potentially an extra 30% current needed than expected. Well worth more investigation, but right now, I'm going over my Cypher knowledge while Expendables 4 provides mundane noise in the background, ha ha!

You still around Terry?

I may have my math slightly wrong, I'm not double checking that again, but the factory spec for fuel pressure is to set it with the engine IDLING (in vacuum). That spec is 51PSi while idling. So now add +10psi for atmospheric, and +7 for 7psi of boost, and we need 68psi of fuel pressure at full noise, and 51psi idling. That's according to the FSM I found last night for M35. So MINIMUM fuel pressure should be 51psi and it climbs from there.

Pressure when IDLING, is meant to be 51PSi... So that amperage value needs to go up a fair chunk... I'd personally be factoring for more like 12amp at least on those runs, and at that point you need to hope the already there wiring doesn't drop you a volt or two, as that's a lot of fuel pressure flow drop off from 13.5 to 12V! Taking idle pressure of 51psi, means the pump will be drawing a MINIMUM of 9amps all the time based on your reading of the graph (3bar base, then allowing an extra 0.5bar for boost = roughly 51psi)

Ill review it again, from memory when I first saw some of Trailer Park Boys I wasn't a huge fan. I ended up at Letter Kenny after watching Shoresy, which is a bit ass backward, ha ha

This sounds like someone who would have owned an R33 in their past... It's okay, I'm 100% picking up what you're putting down Mark.

Just back on what was raised about jacking off the the tow/tie down point on the front of cars. I've used it plenty. I've also watched it on a car where you could see it move the front end of the car. It was like the front end/whole car being tweaked and twisted a bit. I will say, I struggle to find good jacking points on MOST cars. The ones that have good points, I then normally struggle to find a jack tall enough to make the car change height! One of my go to points for either the jack, or the axel stands though, is either a suspension pickup point, OR a subframe to chassis major bolting point. I actually think its the subframe on my R33 that has a bit of a bend in it, from being jacked in the middle too. However, it could have been one of my many other cars I've had over the years! Or it could also be the from me jacking it up, and the fact the top of the front radiator support isn't there, so it can allow the front of the car to move and bend etc.

Sounds like a perfect time to harness up a couple of the dogs, show the horses what real power is about!