MBS206

I'm 22 years younger than you mark, and I'm operating in the exact same way! Ha ha ha

It makes you wonder, all these people starting to make a billet replacement head, I wonder if any have thought about trying to adapt tech from newer engines into them. You're already at the full design stage to make a billet head... Why not really spice it up and had some more modern tech into the mix too...

Connect all the plumbing up properly. The actual worst part about having the turbo unable to actually build boost, is you can and likely would over soon the turbo if you drove the car (free rev while stationary isnt likely to manage it). If you do have an air leak as Duncan suggested, you'll have a bad time as the AFM will be saying different to reality. As you have had the engine out, I'd go over all electrical connections again. If you have a consult cable, plug it in, and see what the ECU thinks is going on. Did you touch the timing belt? If so, double check your timing on the gears is correct AND put a timing light on it while it's idling and see what ignition setting you have. Is the AFM you've installed the one that was in the car previously? You said you replaced seals, what seals exactly? What have you had apart? From memory when I had my RB25DET with factory throttle, there was two plugs the TPS plug on the loom could go to. One would leave the car running like shit, the other made it work, I think one plug on the TPS area was for something else (an option). It's too many years since I saw that part of the loom to remember properly though. Is the car idling smooth (as smooth as an RB can)? Does it smell fuelled up? I have a feeling either timing in timing belt is off, or a sensor isn't right.

Theres still skid pan and motokhana days up in QLD at least that are $100 or less. The ones that are ran as "driver training" less so, they're expensive, but just normal skid pan days like SAU ran are still low cost. And thats one of the places I learned to be a lariken, purely by asking for passenger rides, and how people were doing crazy things. Reese gave me plenty of pointers back in the day for skid pan! And yes Duncan, I will never forget your pointers for track work. Especially after Neil got out saying "I am NEVER getting in the car with him again!" 😛

I go back to, skip the concrete, we just need smooth dirt/grass... You weld us up one of those huge take like things you buy at Bunnings for spreading dirt nicely, except we'll tow it behind a car instead of push by hand. 😛

Maybe SAUNSW could see howany members would do a motorkhana day if Schofield's is still available for a reasonable price...

Skip the concrete, we just need to smooth a field. Mark knows how to drive a grader Duncan I reckon 100x100 flat area for skid pan style, and then some sort tracks for rally... Duncan's already got a rally car on the premises to...

From what I've seen and experienced first hand with those powder extinguishers, they're good to use to break a window and escape the car, and half the time then do f**k all to stop a fire. You just need much more than 1KG worth of powder. Not to mention, half the time it's an engine bay fire, and you can't easily, and do not want to completely open the bonnet, so you're left pretending to be an American Infantry... Spray and Pray baby! And then 100% that shit is really destructive afterwards! Realistically, those little ones at a race track might help you keep the fire from growing and give the fire marshal / truck a chance to actually get to you with their multiple large bottles. For a road car, these days, prepare to deboard as quickly as humanly possible, and move to safety. Allow insurance to fix replace it (unless it's like a rare classic etc, then do nearly everything possible to save it!) Keep the little extinguisher with you to help protect other things around you from burning while you stand there singing "How can we sleep while our beds are burning?" Secondly, powder extinguishers I freaking hate for indoor use, (this isn't really relevant to a car) as you will get a powder fog around you, and it can be disorientating. When I did fire training when at BlueScope Steel, they have (had?) their own fire brigade on site. We did all the training, and at the end we were told, "If it's an indoor fire, and you need to use a powder extinguisher, we as the fire brigade would rather you just exit the building, you're more likely to get lost in the smoke and powder fog than do much help, so just GTFO" And pretty much that was what they said for most other fires too, grab extinguisher, if it's much more than paper in a bin fire, use extinguisher to get you and others out of the building to safety... Part of me wishes when my Skyline caught alight many moons ago, I let insurance sort it out, instead of putting the fire out... part of me now says "But I've saved a classic before it was a classic!"

Start with a multimeter, and see if you're getting power at the TPS. There should be a manual for your car somewhere on these forums and it'll have the info for what closed TPS signal voltage is, and how it should sweep to full throttle. Same as for other sensors / valves. Have you checked things like your base timing etc? See if anything looks amiss there too?

Have you got an RB25DE non VCT head gasket available. Also, use the temp sensors from the car, particularly the one for the dashboard. They give different readings from R32 to R33. As you'll likely need to tune this again, I'd recommend hooking up the VCT, even if there is no oil supply in your block, you can drill and tap and oil line the same way it is done for RB2530 builds. While it won't help with outright HP, it will majorly help you with low/mid range and make the car more drive able in lower RPMs. If you don't have them already, you'll need new valve springs too, as the R32 RB25DE springs will end up too soft for boost.

Kia Ora!

Dry sump? Is that like where you don't put oil in, and leave the car parked in the garage because it's worth so much now and is like a beautiful museum piece? 😛

Sounds like AFM or TPS issue. What are the voltages at the TPS like? Have you done any diagnostics other than slapping parts at it?

I am actually chuckling about that out loud!

Its an RB26. It won't have oil pressure that long... 😛

From videos and photos of them coming apart, I'd be adding a loop near the front of the shaft too. Have seen the remains where it has let go, been caught by the centre loop, but shaft is happy to bend about 90degrees at that point and proceed to slap the shit out of everything as it dies a catastrophic death.

You need to visit Ipswich. Plenty of clapped out R32 and R33s running around here as daily drivers. And when I say clapped out, they're how you'd look at a VN, when it's the year 2010...

I want ZF, with either LS or Barra. In the cruiser. Want more lazy power/drive for towing. God I'm getting old!

Can't remember if you've done the diff yet, after my 33 went under water, it was full of water a long while later. Drained and refilled with oil. Mine hasnt been moved under its own power yet though, but inspection camera before refilling and it looked like it should be all okay. Let's hope bearings are fine ha ha!

Sounds like a potential ground loop on the sensors. The 2500 has the sensor grounds go back to the ECU yeah? Are there any grounds that have been looped together, OR grounds in the sensor wiring to the chassis / motor? The alternator one is a bit weird, does the same thing happen on the road? Is it definitely dropping voltage based on boost, or is it just RPM dependent?

Those didn't work. Depending on if you're on a phone or PC, you can click the add files button, select each photo one at a time (pick one photo, tell it to upload, click 'add files' again.) It sounds like a few things are unplugged, one is possibly the AFM (or wrong AFM) or the TPS. I've had the same issue before too leaving the temp coolant sensor unplugged, but that only became an issue once the car got hot. To know what the base idle is doing, unplug the IACV (electric plug to it), and see if it'll start up, and what the idle tries to sit at. It will be interesting if it can even start with the IACV unplug, and that would be a big clue too if the idle screw is set too low. Will wait for the pictures to load again so we can check plugs.

With the idle, have you reset the base idle screw with the IACV unplugged? Very likely the base idle is set far too low. 10 seconds sounds about right for the ECU keeping the IACV open at about 1000rpm, then it should settle for about 650-750rpm (I can't remember the exact rpm point). If the base idle is too low, it can cause the car to stall.

I buy oil buy the 10L drum. It's a square drum. Comes with a tap. Works the same way as above, but normally more economical to buy per litre. However, you need an intermediate dirty oil drum for your first change, as chances are, your car doesn't need 10L in it. The cruiser is great for using the drum. It from memory is 9.3L of oil to fill. And it gives no f**ks if you give it an extra 700ml, and bam, you've got an empty 10L drum Oh and then on top of that, I've normally got a 20L empty drum around that I tip used oil into from smaller dump outs if I do t have an empty 10L. A few weeks back I dropped to the tip about 150L of used oil.

"Rattle rattle shriek crunch", could really be RB26 Engines though...

There is 100% no denying, a car that doesn't have a lot of power, but has grip, and brakes, can put a lot of cars to shame, especially as you can push them so aggressively, without fear of all the power putting you in the trees. When you're having to dance around the power, especially at a track you don't get much opportunity to go over and over and over. Lower powered cars that make up for it on the limit for grip are GREAT! IMO, unless you're building a car to race a specific class, the best car for motorsport, is the one you have, and can afford! (Or a cheap car, like a Swift, or Excel, or Corolla)! Then just go do laps and have fun!