MBS206

From memory when the tank is full is when the resistance from the fuel sender reads its absolute lowest. It sounds like the short has made its way to the fuel sender wires... Which also means the short could possibly be in / around the cluster.

Actually, that's what that post is saying is happening, with only the LAST 10mm to the wastegate flange not divided. A whole single centimetre is what they're claiming caused that change. However, I haven't actually punched the numbers in etc to do any mafs, but they're talking 26PSi + of boost, and it taking nearly 2 seconds longer to climb a further 200rpm... Yep, it was in 4th gear, but, say that car does 2800RPM at 100km/h, they're talking a car making 26PSi, is taking an additional nearly 2 seconds to go from 128km/h, to 135km/h... That's pretty extreme to me. Also interesting as you scroll down through the comments and I started reading there was someone who's done very similar testing, on a hub dyno, back to back without even pulling car off the hub dyno, and barely saw any change what so ever on a stupid powered car.

You totally couldn't have that many cars running on Ethanol. You'd be employing two full time mechanics just to keep going through the vehicles, flushing old fuel out, and possibly changing anything the ethanol has eaten between the months it would be between drives.

AMG GT R, and R8 is what I'd replace RS6 and M5 with.

Getting the setup right, is likely to cost multiples of the purchase price of the vehicle.

If you want the screaming "weeeee" sound, just let the gasket between the exhaust manifold and the turbo break a little. It'll go "weeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee" everytime its on boost...

To help you out... If you head for the "Forced Induction" section of the forum, you'll find these two threads. RB30 Hybrid Dyno Results. RB30 Conversion Thread

A sticky, is a post in part of the forum that is "Stuck" and doesn't disappear. Sticky threads will be always the first topics to appear in the forum areas.

And if you want more power, more reliably, and cheaper, go get the Aussie RB... The 4L Barra and put that in instead.

No cats will keep discolouring the rear bar. Sends white paint a weird yellow stain. Cut and polish normally gets it out, but you'll be doing that every fortnight I found.

That looks a bit like yellowing to me. If the rear bar was looking like that from rich idle, I'd ask the question, do you have a catalytic converter fitted, and fully working?

Ahh! I see what you mean. That's a pretty cool design for an MBC. I was just meaning my one was at least a MBC that had a path for air out, unlike so many others.

What did the rear look like before repaint from the "rich idle"?

Are you planning to ever come on boost with the RB25DET? The torque of the motor alone will break the little box. It's not a matter of if, it's when.

Ha ha, yeah, I've had one following me around in my parts boxes since about 2007 I believe. Just a little iddy bit hole drilled in the one I have to let it vent out once pressure was removed from the engine side. Still no idea what I'd put it on, ha ha.

Just read this... Just a little bit of a wild one! Do you think the driver was testing out a new feature/device for how to lose the cops in a high speed chase? I also suspect, if the box has a road sweeper that does magnetic metal pick up, he does a LOT of work in the machining industry. Which is what most of that looked like, machining chips from a mill or lathe. And I bet they're RAZOR sharp! And from an environmental perspective they really do need to actually collect all of those little pieces too. I wonder how many people still cop flat tires over the coming months on that road? As for insurance company, yeah, it'd be interesting to hear what they say to the owner. But realistically, he's right, that "It's his fault". In the way that, it was his truck that spilled it, so they need to clean it up. However, neither he, nor his insurance company may bear the end cost if they do an investigation and find out it was caused by someone elses negligence (And they know who)...

I didn't actually know this! I've seen photos of the H1, mainly outside shots, and they just look "different". I guess there'd be a few little changes like nicer rims, and probably the fact they have nicer looking paint with some depth and shine, which will make any vehicles body look different to the very flat colours of the defence force. I've watched the guys on GHPC convert their Humvee to LS1, and they've done some really nice front shock upgrade. I'm waiting for the next video on it with the rear end done. I can't remember if they've already done it, or I dreamed it, but I believe they're also supercharging theres. They will be in the future doing proper long travel suspension too. If you ditch out your big V8, as rubbish as it must be, send it to my place. I'll let the unreliable V8 motor and box be here. I just like V8s... So I'll find something to do with it... Even if that something is just taking up valuable space in the yard. I might have something Skyline I can send back in payment... Or even Ford Barra motors (From memory you're in Canada yeah?) So you can then play with the legendary Aussie 4L version of an RB... Except they don't have that distinctive random miss at idle like the RB25 does.

Or you mean the age old problem of early 2000's manual boost tees, where they never let the pressure out of the line between the boost tee, and the waste gate, so after your first trip on boost, the damn wastegate liked to stay open and be laggy on gear change?

Being behind an RB25DET, we know he won't have the small box for long at all...

Consider a 35 too...

Ah, I thought he'd wired it to one of the spare ECU inputs! Too long ago since I read that post, ha ha. I've been arguing with radiators, harmonic balancers, alternators and rust since reading it.

Hopefully not, since he knows the fuses work ha ha ha

That would totally depends on how the circuit in the GM ECU is actually made as to if it could make an impact. The big thing to check for would be to use a multimeter to measure the voltage of the sensor with it on the gauge only, and then what it is when the sensor is plugged into the GM ECU too. If it varies at all, then I would disconnect it. But yeah, totally depends on how the circuit is taking that voltage measurement and the componentry selected.

Unplug the thermofans and let it idle... Watch the temp gauge as it all goes up... Record the values. And done.

Put in excel, graph it, fit a trend line, display formula. I totally am not reinstalling MATLAB. Hopefully you have it installed if you want to use it 😛 But if HPTuners can only fit a linear equation, no need for any of the above with some simple mafs...