MBS206

You can come out in the Chaser...

I like this car... Looked at it many a time while in the workshop... Got my photos?

It needs a turbo. That's the issue it has...

The LS1 and T56 works out around 20KG lighter then an RB20 and gearbox. I'm coming from an RB30DET and R33 box, so should be saving around 50KG, as well as shifting weight more into the middle of the car.

That's in fitted and running. No engineers report. Nothing This thing sparcely sees the road, it only ever used it's rego to go to events really ( half the events it went to itcame back on a trailer) To be honest, by the time I got this car running with the rb30 the first time, it'll cost me the same as the v8. Considering I was about to build a forged 30, a few more grand for this is way better!!!

Needs more cubes... /End shit stir...

Well everything included, engine, box, clutch, ecu, wiring, etc etc (There's lots of little shit!) I'll be happy if I can get out of this for under 12K. After doing so many motors, I know that this will go over budget... But I do have a heap of spare parts (RB25 Gearbox, head etc) that are all up for sale to help compensate) And I did pick up my motor and gearbox for an absolute steal (And clutch!)... Also, that's not including everything I'm doing suspension wise, as well as inside the cabin. (New Seats, redoing bits behind the dash, gauges etc)

I love watching these vids... I'm currently half way into having an LS1 go into my R33... As you mentioned, it is an expensive excercise... Especially if you crack the shits and pay someone to do alot of labour for you... LOL

I did call them in regards to custom/one off bits and pieces too, and they no longer do one offs. I was informed all that they will do is churn out "kits". I've spoken with brad in regards to the steering rack changes, and I feel much safer letting him f**k with the rack then buy that kit and not know what will happen. We've discussed things and the geometry will be "normal", the rack is being moved towards the drivers side, and then extended on the passenger side so that we don't have different length arms.

Cheers Arthur, that's very interesting there indeed. Thanks for the link. I'll speak further with Brad about it. Edit: Although a new starter is only around $330... So it is a fair expense more for a few bolts and the spacer plate...

Shells for these things are cheap as. Might be easier to just pick up another shell Noddy (And no, not our Secretary!). So any story/incar footage of said rail bending event?

I forsee the V8's doing a bit better on this then the turbos... Generally speaking, watching the 1/4mile runs and then the 1000metre... The V8's will lose out on 1/4 mile, and walk away with the 1000M run...

Yeah... We haven't even left page one...

So now I find out what you're toying with for the car...

Put boost at around 9PSi (Or even better set it on a dyno) and avoid all the dramas. Stock ECU is about to have a coronary!

I've got one in the car, won't be using it, need to use the T56 slave cylinder. Only issue is, it's at Brads in the car still. You'll have to get there and unbolt it (Without pissing brad off on me, or dirtying the workshop ) Edit: Also make sure it's okay with Brad and doesn't muck up any of his plans...

They could only defect you for the location of it or it not being secured, as they're a requirement in government vehicles

AND PAID! Now to dig out those Semi Slicks to bolt to the Chaser and see if the diff explodes... ... ...

Yeah it's like a carby cleaner, you spray it in while she's running, throw it down the pipe that leads to The aac valve. It'll wanna stall, you'll beer two people one to keep te revs up the other one to spray.

At te moment, the motor will go in stock, with a set of extractors and 3" exhaust, and fully tuned. Fully tuned around 220rwkw. But a VERY big useable power band. Once I put the cam in, 280/290 rwkw with still a very useable power band (2500 rpm to 7000rpm and instant throttle, and keeping the super short diff ratio) Pretty much well details on the swap, basically standard 5.7L 6speed manual running an adaptronic e1280s, camber arms, new coil overs, new seats, under the dash stripped out (no air con or stereo shit). Still debating on whether I strip the sound deadenin or not. Being setup for sprints, hill climbs and the rare cruise.

Chris, before resetting the tune, have you put some magic Subaru Upper Cylinder Head treatment through it? I did mine (Many years back now) by ripping it all apart and scrubbing it blah blah blah... Still had gunk in it... Did the ol' Subaru treatment to it, by spraying the subaru shitdown through the actual AAC valve (You'll need someone to hold the revs up for you as it will cough and splutter like a bitch!) I'm thinking it might be a gummed up AAC is all...

Which way do we need to go with the Rack Brad? And what sorta of distance from exhaust port to strut tower do we have? They're on a 45 degree angle aren't they? As for pushing that car... I've done it enough...

Most tracks have a 95DBA noise limit as measured 30 metres away from the edge of the track. EC is one of the only ones I know of in Aus that doesn't.

Ouch! Nasty! So how long until it's all back together and looking pretty?