MBS206

Sounds heat shield related. But odd that it does it at that exact RPM. That RPM is also very close to the cam switch over point coming off idle, and I've had both Subaru, and Toyota's rattling before when they've been having oil getting up to the variable cam control, and always right on the low RPM switch over point. The Toyota one I've had is mainly just on start up.

Welcome aboard! Is your Skyline auto or manual? I'm assuming manual. Does it have any mods done yet?

He obviously had his reason for flipping you off. I wonder what it was...

HPA do an interesting video on tuning, and Adrian shows on the dyno, moving from 10:1 to 12:1 (And I think even 13:1) and the power moves SFA. However, a couple of degrees of timing has a HUGE impact. Exhaust side of things will more be the length of the exhaust and how many bends and turns you have. The straighter you can keep it, the better. By a lot. Oh, and getting the diameter right. Bigger isn't always better. Going to big can actually lose you power.

I have to say, most people I see on the road fit the bill of atrocious drivers. Whether they be cowboys in their dual cabs, bogans in the Commodores, or the soccer mums. Pretty much most people on the road put zero freaking thought into driving. Barely look further up the road then the end of their bonnet, and have never even thought about how catastrophically wrong shit can go, by doing what they all deem as normal driving. Especially their late braking, racing to stopped lights, and sitting half a foot off the bumper of the car in front at 110km/h. Wanna know what's even better? By the time their kids get to be old enough to learn to drive, they've already got in the back of their brain what is normal driving, how annoyed you're allowed to get at people etc, and then their parents who actually have zero freaking skill at driving (Even though they constantly say "I've been driving for 20 years and never had an accident!") teach the little twerps how to drive, or should I say, how to make a car move. Literally watched a parent teach their L Plater, on a 4 lane freeway, that you just slam the brakes on, and push your way over, even with a B Double bearing down on you, and that's how you should drive, rather then, just keep going to the next exit. Same shit happens all the time for side streets etc, watching numpties pull dumb shit turns pushing across 3 lanes of traffic, rather than just go up the road another 30 seconds, and take the next turn that'll get you to the same location... Oh, and the damn right lane bandits. Or the retards driving along with their headphones in, and can't hear the ambulance or fire truck right up their ass about to run them over... Pretty much, people drive on the road, like ego centric f**ks, and don't actually think how dumb shit their driving is, how it could easily kill them or someone else in a split second, or at the very least, how they're driving is contributing to all the shit they're bitching about on the road, like shitty congestion!

GU dashes are also know, especially on the tach, to have issues with one of the caps and another module for the power supply, and it will cause tacho to drop, also happens on the odo/Speedo too. It's why you never trust a GU patrols Odo, as when the Speedo drops out, the odo stops counting too...

Amount of time you're being observed by law enforcement is so minute, that you could be a dumb shit 90% of your driving time, and never lose a demerit. You could also be the best driver ever and still get hit with a fine. When you realise how quickly everything turns from "Wee, we're having fun!" To "oh f**k oh f**k oh f**k", you start to realise the only way to be a good driver, is to not be doing anything dumb or unexpected by normies on the road. You want to go fast, go to the track. Someone there in a 1990s slow POS will also show you how bad of a driver you are as they lap 10 seconds per lap quicker than you can in a car that should be considerably faster.

This is a stupid reason to get a car. I thought someone mentioned something about not trying to be pretentious... Flexing is same same, you just think you're cool doing it.

Some people love to enjoy the car, and that's the love. Others prefer being covered in dirt, oil, grease, sweat, and cuts and scratches instead of getting to drive the car. 😛

Low ball him cause it doesn't have a Samsonas in it...

Woah woah woah, don't forget the crowd that hate doing this shit, but love modified cars AND paying others to modify them. At which point, go buy Dose's R33

While doing the timing chain, fix the indicators too...

The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.

Yeah, but the country is turning to a bit of shite at the moment... (Majority of work is NZ'ers, and we have an office in NZ I deal with daily...)

If it came off a Skyline you could easily have sold it for $500 to someone wanting OEM parts to return their car to stock. Not sure if that market is in the Stageas or not.

It sounds "expensive" when compared to a mass produced tow bar that gets imported from China, but if that's all custom fabrication, then I think where you've ended up, it's a pretty good price! Considering some people will pay thousands of dollars for a few intercooler pipes to be welded up!

I think modifying any car, has to be because you like it, OR, you have an end goal to do XYZ. EG, build the fastest VW Golf in the country etc. So, if you're not setting out to do crazy things like break a specific record, or replicate some certain car, then as mentioned above, find the car that you really like, and modify it. Why? Well, modifying any car isn't a sound logical thing to do it. You do it for the fun of it. And if you want it to be fun, you need to start with something you really like. For some, that would be something like an R34 because they saw one in The Fast and The Furious franchise, for others it'll be something entirely different for some other reason. For me personally, why am I here, nearly 20 years later? I loved cars, all cars, and I wanted a car that drove a certain way, I was about to drop the coin on modifying a VR Commodore (Because I grew up in a family that taught me Commodores were the only cars worth owning). And just before I did that, a friend handed me the keys to an R33 GTST he'd just bought that was pretty much bone stock, it drove EXACTLY how I wanted a car to. Nice handling, the right amount of straight line zoom zooms, and hell, I loved the way it looked. I looked at the R32, it wasn't for me, I looked at the R34, it wasn't quite for me either, mainly because they were too expensive Price is also why I never bought a GTR back in the day. But I loved the curves of the R33 GTST, interior suited me over the R32, and wambam, thank you ma'am! I bought one. And in the essence of "return on investment" and "Sound financial planning", I've been making the dumbest mistakes ever since. Also, I know of a specific mortgage broker on these forums who has a very well modified R33 GTST making great power for the street and track... Then you could modify it with adding a Samsonas gearbox, Bosch motorsport ABS system, and go have some sick fun! Oh, and then you'll be able to help him get me my next mortgage, because that, like modifying a car, is probably a stupid financial decision for me at this moment the property I want...

Get something that can spray a bit, something like I'd use is a pressure pack for weed sprayer. I use one with degreaser. Spray it on (make sure you're fully covered up, you don't want that shit on you, especially face/eyes). Alternatively, a paint brush will help here as you can brush and work at the stuff quite aggressively. Be aware, citric acid can eat metal away and will cause it to rust more later. So make sure you neutralise it when done, and give the fresh metal some protection. That hanger, I'd honestly bin and get something like the Frenchy's drop in replacement. The tank, again, I'd look for something else to replace it with. Remember, as metal turns to rust, it means there's less metal there now. So some patches of your fuel tank are likely to be quite thin. Personally, Id focus on the front end of things, IE, how did the injectors get clogged if they're meant to be after a fuel filter. Then, once the front is sorted, I'd rig something up, even like a small surge tank, and make sure the engine is now running and all behaving. Then I'd replace the fuel tank and fuel hanger and pump. Also, I'd already be preparing to ditch your fuel filter...

That's looking great! Are you planning to do things like all hidden wiring with it, or you're planning to have it look more like we'd expect an RB in an engine bay to look like?

Your back garage, second shelf from the bottom?

After I win the lottos... So sounds like Samsonas, valve springs, a new bigger turbo, and maybe a super charger like all the school kids are dreaming of for twin charging, and you'll have the perfect daily driver. Oh, and maybe Bosch motorsport ABS for you too.

Hopefully that's not too confusing for the PoPo in Canada! Mr Plod even thinking you had Nitrous plumbed in on the street in Australia would lead to a 7-10 year stint in maximum security...

My embedded systems thoughts have me sitting with GTS on this. Variation between same phone hardware, should be small. However, the internal "intensity" or "volume" amount that say Google passes to the app, will be quite different, as the underlying hardware will be passing different levels for the same volume to the Google OS. Until the app creator has had each individual phone, and set benchmarks and calibrations for each, the amount of error can be quite huge. It can even be observed by using different phones, recording the same noise, and then playing it back, they end up soon ding different. A big reason for it, is even the different types of mics used in phones have different responses, and different frequency ranges. Then you need to get into the DSP, and the variations in those, their sample rates which then effect their frequency range, and then the quality of the DSP, and what type of hardware conversion they do to for the ADC within the DSP. Oh, and let's not forget at the low level phones are designed to cutout loud sounds. It's one of the reasons they suck in really loud environments (eg concerts). The louder you yell, the more you'll get cutout too Note DSP is Digital Signal Processor ADC is the analogue to data converter. I don't have any real data on what the variation would truly be, however, chat GPT says in general, their output is typically between +/-2dB to +/-5dB of what you're really measuring. So realistically, anything from 4 to 10dB variation is possible even with the same devices.

Even in cars with factory ECU, but tuned like yours, I can sense/pickup the delay still. It's small, but I find it's still there. And it changes the throttle feel too, especially on that first little bit of pickup from just touching the throttle, to getting it to crack open, at least on a mechanical pedal you can feel that tiny bit of slack you're about to take up, and then know immediately you're now in the point of throttle opening. I know many people don't notice or feel it, but 100% my brain can perceive that minor delay. And it's there, we'd actually be able to measure it too! It's still small, but just something I personally dislike. For driving on the road in the daily, unlike GTS, I'm happy to keep ABS, and traction control. Most stability control systems though can go EAD. I find they're only good if your immediate instinct isn't to try and catch the loss of stability, or worse, when it gets over zealous and you werent actually unstable, but now it kicking in has become dangerous!

Ha ha ha! You'll hate most cars, especially as a daily with all their beeping and booping and trying to constantly adjust everything because "we're smart, and we think we can work out what you want" except they don't understand, when previously you opened the throttle to 60% and it was fun and quick and gave plenty of power, just because you've driven sedately for the last 2 weeks, doesn't mean you want less performance, or you don't want the gearbox to go back a gear like it did last time you were at 60% throttle! Even the EV Kona I had did this sort of bullshit, and that's even if you last drove it hard in sports mode, and then pandered it in eco, then put it back in sports mode for the blat, it would be really soft in sport mode for the first few heavy hits of the throttle, and then it would really start to crisp the throttle up. It made it stupidly frustrating when daily driving it! Plus all the new electronic steering systems that are so delayed, and I haven't found a single production vehicle with electronic throttle I've been satisfied with, all because the ECU gets to choose how much throttle you're really getting and that means, there is going to be delays.