MBS206

Thanks for asking the question we were all thinking!

Ignore the BOV / recirc valve question. You have an NA and shouldn't have one. If there magically is one though... It should be removed, though it shouldn't really effect it in the way one will for a turbo motor with it venting to atmosphere while running an afm.

I don't know that machine specifically, but I'd personally go for something with a little more kick than 130amp. Around up to 180 would be good. At the 6mm range, you're really pushing the machine hard and don't have a long period you can run for with out needing to give it a rest. Lots of MIG machines come with a regulator and hose. A lot will come with a starter roll of wire too, but it isn't too expensive to buy. I'd recommend NOT buying a massive roll too, as you don't want it sitting around FOREVER in the machine between uses and potentially going to shit. For thin sheet metal, get a roll of 0.6mm if you're doing over 3mm and above, switch over to 0.8mm wire. Even by 2mm you'd probably really want to switch. As for gas battle, it's all swap and go style now. You'll pay a bottle deposit, and then X amount to swap for a full one. I think it's like $200 or $300 for a D Size bottle upfront as "deposit", and like $110 to $150 per swap. My D size CO2/argon bottle lasts a fair bit of welding on the MIG. And I run an E size bottle on the TIG. For DIY MIG, stick with a D size bottle. If you really start to get into a LOT of welding and doing it really regularly, then upgrade. If you're like most DIY car guys, one D bottle will last you 2 or 3 years easily. I think I've been on my current bottle about 5 years. It is starting to get low, but I've been smashing it a lot more the last 6 months.

Don't use "gasless MIG" (FCAW) you want to use proper MIG. FCAW burns a few hundred degrees hotter than MIG will for mild steel. It is a true ball ache for sheet metal. New MIG / TIG machines even have features like "Spot Weld" as well as "Automatic" settings. Plenty of people say for DIY home hobby, the auto machines are pretty good for 95% of welding. I personally, I'm a sucker for punishment and wanting to dial it in, and be able to adjust the machine. Mainly because I used to MIG weld for a living, and being able to tweak and tune things ever so slightly was my preference. Hence when I bought my ACDC TIG, it has all the adjustments for everything and no "easy" mode. Ha ha I have stick, MIG, "gaslessMIG" and ACDC TIG at home. Out of them, if you're doing mild steel sheet metal repair, and want to do mild steel exhausts, go MIG. If you're thinking you'll want to get into doing some aluminium stuff, or stainless steel, get an ACDC TIG with HF start. If you can, get one with a foot pedal too. My MIG machine is a UniMIG, and my Stick/TIG is CigWeld. If I were buying another machine, I'd buy another CIGWeld. Lots of people having issues with UniMIG, and them not wanting to cover warranty. Everything has to go back to UNIMig themselves. CIGWeld, I've had to use their warranty on my machine for a gas leak, they have repair centres everywhere, (contracted authorised repair centres). First repair place I used were hopeless, but the second place were amazing. Warranty process itself super easy, and second repair place was telling me CigWeld actually cover in their warranty, upto an hour of techs time to help you with your machine, and going through the settings and helping teach you the machine. UniMIG keep trying to get out of replacing motherboards on 12 month old machines. TLDR, mild steel sheet welding, buy a MIG. my vote is CigWeld for brand.

I guess that's what happens when someone can't convert metric to freedom units to machine something. 😛

Also check the factory 2 wire coolant sensor is functioning properly and plugged in. Ignore the dash, the dash uses a different temp sensor.

One hundred percent! Stock.... Take! It's your final parting gift from them! 😛 How warm can those ovens go? Can you get to 250c? If it can, please acquire two. I'll take one for powder coating... 😛

It still doesn't matter to the eye of the law. It's all those annoying grey areas. Engineer the car under a specific area, but that same thing is still illegal elsewhere. Hence, still not legal.

You'll need to put your acquisitions hat on Mark, especially on your last day. Acquisitions really is a great talent of defence personnel

The funny part is, an engineer's cert still doesn't actually make the car legal. Interesting part on that IE, even some cars from the factory are defectable as they sit in the showroom. So even stock doesn't mean legal.

And you can then legally not use your indicator too! 😛

So, Barra Turbo, with a fake RB25 and Nissan badging on it to confuse all? 😛

Oh man that sounds nasty! The fact it reads to a negative value is... Odd... That would nearly make me think is it firmware? Unless 0V doesn't equal 0psi?

Pansy... Drop engine in, drive it. Don't drive like idiot, so avoid popo attention. From a legalities point of view, you need most of the same stuff signed off by an engineer once you up the power, but everyone ignores that part of all the documentation don't they

About the same coin for LS3 and a 6 speed manual... However, needs more dollars spent making it fit... Probably about the amount of money that would be spent on new turbo, intercooler, ECU, tune, etc... I support stonking big V8s in Skylines...

I think definitely get a manual oil pressure gauge on it then. Double check if it's really dropping pressure that low.

I'll check the wiring plan tomorrow. Now when you say ALL the earth's are to the chassis, is that including the sensor ground from the ECU? Certain items should not be grounded to the car/body/chassis, they should ground back to specific ground pins on the ECU.

Honeywell... Ha ha ha an engineer friend left them about 18 months ago due to how bad of a shit show they were. Even she was bitching about how badly they run projects, and the programming issues they're constantly having within the projects.

Ha ha ha, this stuff they had was installing Toshiba PLCs that were made some time in the 1990s, and they were replacing GEM80 PLCs. To let those two talk (staged upgrade along a ~1.2km long building that was split into 4 sections), was a bunch of WinXP machines running Java gateways... There was no way to put something like ProfiSafe in... Most of the HMI machines were WinXP, with Java program, with a custom button board emulating a keyboard... About the only buttons in the operator stations that went direct to the PLCs was the eStop. There was some interesting design stuff in that place...

Well, I managed some time today and did start some of the welding on the PS Res. Absolutely no photos at the moment as today has confirmed what I've known for a long time. I need a LOT of practise welding aluminium... TIG is new to me... So yes, my welds are going to be butt ugly, and that annoys me and my perfectionism. Hence, no photos. When I did my design, my brain put together a backup plan in the event I couldn't reach properly inside to weld it... And I can't reach properly inside to weld it, so I need to enact my backup plan, which means I need to cut the main tube... The only powered saw I have big enough to cut 100mm diameter tube, is my big band saw and it needs an overhaul and new band put on, as it won't cut straight (And has wayyy too high of a TPI for alu anyway). The original cut that I did yesterday to cut it down to 350mm length I did by hacksaw. Let me tell you, the not overly active guy, with ADHD nearly started three different projects while cutting through that pipe, and today, my back and arms are killing me for trying to be active... So I've decided I'm NOT pulling out the hacksaw today to chop it down...

Modern reg stuff now, they'd have a wide input range which would push through a buck converter, it would need to be able to maintain voltage for cranking conditions (sub 9V at times). Likely runs something like an internal 6V rail, and then further voltage regulators depending on which circuit/area it is feeding. Modern voltage regs, like what I'm starting a new power supply design with at work, will let me run a 5V rail output, and as long as my input is equal to or greater than 5V, I have a 5V output. Except I'm not pushing a 5V rail in our system as I don't need one, we're setting up for a 3.8V rail. Our new design will allow me 6 to 60VDC input, and everything else doesn't care, even when I start pushing a few Amp outputs. Realistically, the voltage drop off could be caused by a few things though, one could be literally the alternator is dieing, and hence charge power is dropping, which also means on a straight hard pull you're starting to send the battery flat... (Not that likely from a single couple of gear pull if the battery was fully charged). However, having earth issues, like stray earths not connected, or someone having put a ground loop in, will see the ECU appear to end up with lower voltage "input", mainly because the "ground" is no longer equivalent to battery negative. If they're comparing the input voltage using sensory ground for example, and sensor ground is what is in that ground loop, than the sensor output voltage will actually start to be reduced, when compared to battery ground... Yeah, ground wiring design can start to be a bitch... Also voltage going weird from inductive loads not being managed properly is another real bitch... Hence, why I asked above about how everything was wired in. If OP knows, and can post all of the actual connections from the ECU pin out, as well as what wires are joined where in the loom, which grounds from the ECU have ground points and where they are etc. Would help to see if there is a ground issue. The part I'd start with though, is putting a mechanical oil pressure gauge on to confirm the theory. Otherwise the next track day when the threshold is lowered could result in another of @Duncan favourite types of jokes... Knock knocks... Pretty sure this is what @GTSBoy is also self high fiving... Is all great that we have a decent theory... But they need to prove it before relying on it...

When I worked at BlueScope Steel, we had an Ethernet network, with every switch setup with a duplicate switch. Even when looking at all the primary switches, they had duplicate links, there was then also duplicated links between the primary in section A, to the duplicate in section B. So for each location that had networking, there was 8 network links. This was all back around 2007. That setup caused sooooo many issues, as many of those links were fibre. The network guys ran everything with Spanning Tree Protocol. And then we had great joy... The FOC Transceivers were slowly dieing, but in an intermittent way. And a lot of the time as they started to die, they'd drop offline for about 30 seconds... Spanning Tree Protocol was requiring 45 seconds to "rewire" the network... And by the time it was mostly finished, it had to start again as the transceiver was back online... Queue entire production network being constantly spammed with the spanning tree protocol messages... My god I do NOT miss working in huge environments like that!

Don't turn down the limit yet. Put a mechanical pressure gauge on the car in the same spot and go and prove it.

It's about time I start work on my sun tan. So I knocked up a few parts that will all combine together to become my new power steering reservoir. Now just to produce an abundance of UV and IR rays while melting a heap of bits of alu to become one... Well, that's after I put one more hole in it for the return line to plumb to. It likely won't be this weekend, as Sunday I'm meant to be in doing some last minute stuff to the AMG race car, and the weekend after will be filled with non my Skyline stuff, followed by Bathurst 6 hour. So I don't expect to get to melt metal for at least 3 weeks. I also managed to stuff up and start cutting the hole for the res to pump pipe on the wrong side of the line... It means instead of the lines being nice and tight against the inner guard, they'll be out off the guard. The size of it means I should end up with about 1.8L of power steering fluid, and still have space for another half a litre before it reaches the overflow/breather. This is wayyyyyyy more capacity than factory, which should help keep Powersteer oil temps lower, and the design hopefully allows it to prevent any aerated oil being able to makes its way down to the bottom as it'll have a couple of baffles and some hopeful trickery to force air bubbles away from the bottom.

The log you did with ECU voltage, can you log the other things too like rpm and oil pressure? Need all that info together to compare easily