MBS206

I see you missed the rest of the conversation where they have benefits, but nothing to do with avoiding breaking turbos, which is what the aftermarket BOV made all the fan boys, tuners, and modders believe was the only purpose for them...

Never an issue with boost control. No weird boost issues pre throttle at partial throttle like you're suggesting. It worked. As for all the turbo damage claims, they all were started by aftermarket BOV companies. At least turbo timer companies had SOME truth about them, except people failed to realise that except for in extreme circumstances, that small amount of driving you do to park/ through pit lane etc, is enough to not have a need for a turbo timer.

Did you clean everything out? Take all intercooler piping off, empty the intercooler of oil, clean the exhaust out, etc? Intercoolers make great catch cans... Which makes them less useful for intercooling... But very worth cleaning out, along with all adjoining piping.

Something to note, on an aftermarket BOV, it's quite possible to end up with the worst of both worlds, where on light throttle, there isn't enough force to open the BOV so you get small reversion and driveability issues, and with the venting to atmosphere, it dumps a lot of fuel on shifts. Realistically, dumping to atmosphere under power isn't a major driveability issues, compared to the issues of stalling from reversion. If you're getting up the throttle, then putting the clutch in, say on a shift up, but then don't release the clutch, yes, the engine can and will stall, but, just drive around it, and that's easy, let the clutch out in the next gear and the car rolling will keep it all running / going.who wants a hard hit of throttle and then to just let the motor idle anyway? Main issue for driveability is blipping throttle and it wanting to stall, like when parking or trying to move in slow traffic.

Buying local could also land you in the same scenario you're in now. Someone else just offloading their crap.

Sunken cost fallacy. The real question is, would you rather a car on the road now, that's perfect, or do you like the idea of building a car into something that's yours? If the latter, put money into it. If the earlier, sell it, and buy another, and be very particular. However, be aware, they're an old car, they'll all require significant maintenance at some point.

Build an 800hp motor. Make it as bullet proof as you want, you WILL still break things. Like, the rest of the car. Heck, even as a dead stock car, things will still break, but the more power, the more everything else will let go easier. From gearbox gear sets, to extra stress on the chassis/mounts, more stress on diff, axles, tailshaft, even the suspension mounts. Check out the motorsport build that last year went to a Bosch motor sport ABS setup, and now can brake so damn hard it's twisting mounts for suspension/subframe etc. Now if the brakes can do it, imagine what happens with super grippy tyres and 800hp in a low gear... Shit, I'm presently out fixing the girlfriends daily driver that rarely sees past 3,000rpm and is used to cart the dogs around in. Everything WILL break. If you don't want it to break, don't drive it. And then laugh, as it will still break without even being driven!

ECUMaster is an Australian company from memory, been around a while, and seem to actually play really well on more unique engine setups. Seems to be more of them being used in the states, and they seem to support more cylinders than most others. My opinion on stock ECU/Nistune with he AFM, is you can tune around the issue of stalling. It's still a bit of a band-aid, and not the most perfect smoothest setup, but it can make it drive able and not an absolute PITA. But you're still compromising. A vent to atmosphere BOV has the same issue as no BOV with regards to the AFM. Both make the ECU think more air is entering the engine than there really is. And I can't find any hard science/decent evidence that supports the claims all the "you MUST run a BOV of some sort of you'll blow the turbo up". About the only one some people can give of why is "lag between gear shifts", and that is only an issue when your boost source for the waste gate is pre throttle body. I ran my boost source for the TD07S off the inlet manifold. Didn't have weird boost spiking issues, didn't have boost control issues, and on a gear shift the wastegate slammed shut, which meant all exhaust gases would be keeping it going round and round and not waiting for the wastegate to shut again when I stepped off the clutch and back on the loud pedal. It came back on boost in the next gear pretty much instantly. ECU / tune / BOV choice I think really comes down to a lot more factors than just what you've stated. And personally, especially for daily driving, recirc setup for the BOV, or no BOV. I dislike the really loud BOV when everyone is taking off from the lights etc.

Common for single gauges to be swapped around. My 33 GTST when I bought it had a GTR tacho fitted, everything else was GTST gauges.

Google says for a 1998 Nissan Maxima to pull/pry, and the metal pin might even come out with it. I'd do a bit more googling, there was a few videos, find some where the shafts/needles appear most similar and compare the techniques.

And make sure the belts are tightened appropriately too.

They care about emissions, and cost the most. Save weight where possible, and make manufacturing easier. Less material also let's the engine transfer heat to water quicker, and bring the engine up to temp quicker, better for emissions and getting them past their warranty period.

Make sure to have the block checked for cracking etc before doing anything.

It definitely seems like you have no beef, with only digging up a 5 year old post, to comment on an inflammatory item with total insensitivity, and of which had nothing to do with the thread. Yep, you definitely seem like a great person and your friends and family would be so proud to know of your lovely actions

Really, anyone modifying a car isn't being financially smart. We're doing it for the things we love. And honestly, a high revving, light, NA car is actually pretty darn fun. I used to have a Swift Sport, and I miss that thing as a daily, and yes, doing something like some intake and exhaust stuff would have made minimal gains, but would have bought an even bigger smile

So, what did you decide? If these items were going in and out of stock, you could at least order the two in-stock pieces. Also, I'd say the stock bit of airbox isn't that restrictive to your NA motor. To test if it is, fit a vacuum gauge between the airbox and throttle body. At WOT do you measure any vacuum?

TBH, it sounds like the threads on the bolt are fubar in a specific section. Most likely as you've been working it back and forth it has torn threads out, as you loosen the bolt, this section enters the nut, now you're spinning a round shaft inside the nut, there's no threads here. Use something similar to a claw on a hammer that will fit either side of the bolt head and try to apply downward force while also undoing it. The idea is to attempt to catch a thread, or just rip the f**ker out. Caution on ripping out, as it could bend/maime/mangle what the captive nut attaches to. If the captive nut is actually okay, you could do the dirty part of cutting the head off the bolt, then cut a slit in the end of the thread that's now exposed and then screw it up and into the area the captive nut is until it falls out the other side. However, this does risk the remainder of the bolt rusting over time and damaging near the captive nut and also making it rust. However, so can cutting pieces of panel work out to access this area if you don't reseal it properly.

Well, every piece of information on that part when you track it back to Nitto says it's for a KIT of theirs. It is also designed thicker to be stronger. And they speak about a specific harmonic balancer bolt they supply for the whole setup.

Random thoughts, is it possible positive jumper lead was touching either that metal box, or the oil line beside it? And just double check with battery disconnected there cables/connections aren't touching/resting on car body/other conductive material. It could even be an amp cable has come lose and is shorting, however I suspect you have fuses close to the battery for amp power supply and they would have popped (though if one only have melted, it could be why you have a higher resistance to earth now and it's not popping, so I'd double check amp wires/fuses)

When they started to glow and crazy sparks, was the battery still in the car and connected to POS and negative? What sort of battery is it? (Lithium, lead acid, etc?) Is it possible you stuffed up the jump start and managed to get both POS and neg cables on a dead short through the skyline? Check the resistance again, then disconnect the power cable on the alternator, and then measure that same resistance from POS pole to earth. Then measure alternators POS pole to alternator body (with cable disconnected). Do the same on / with the starter motor.

Those two circuits would end up in the same looms from near cluster/stalk all the way to the SMJ from memory, so fault could be anywhere between cluster/stalk area down to the SMJ, and even in the SMJ. Other possible f**kery is some cars for compliance in Australia had extra resistors added to dash / headlight wiring to alter dash bright ness, so could be some dodgy free electrons floating out of that area if it's done in this car.

More amps is also useful in modern cars when diagnosing, since just having canbus networks alive will draw over 5amp to power the car, and that's before you actually "turn the electrics on". Yep, I've flattened a few batteries while doing reverse engineering when I've forgotten to put the cars on the charger. Have also had one of those Victron chargers Dose bought die and start spewing high voltages out of it too. That's a sample size of 1 though. Charger lasted about 18 months before doing so.

I've watched multimeters beep at over 100ohms of resistance. A continuity beep doesn't confirm a short, especially the less high end your multimeter is. Measure actual resistance.

The wasteland, as least traditionally too, was the place with more relaxxed shittery/rules. Not to say you can post porn etc, but it was the place for good joking around, and a bit wild. There was also plenty of unwritten wasteland rules, such as what any user must do if someone posted up asking for likes/votes for a contest... Which was to go in and vote for someone else instead 😛

Plenty of people I knew who drifted set their cars up more for grip than traditional "drift", and then just added LOTS of power. Gave them more control, and bigger smoke shows.