MBS206

Can you log battery voltage, and TPS, and put all four of those into a single image (even as split graphs)? The oil pressure drops aren't following RPM as such. I'm intrigued if you may have a ground loop between different sensors. With the engine not running, log your sensors and for example cycle the throttle pedal. See if any sensor values flutter or move about. This won't be a perfect test either as the ECU won't be cycling all of its actuators like it would be while running. What EMTRON do you have? Do you have a link to the wiring guide for that ECU?

What logic functions do you feel are missing from the Haltech that others have? Is there a limit to how much logic you can string together? By limit, I mean it's like only a single level or two levels of Boolean logic. Realistically, AND, OR, and NOT, is really the only logic you need and realistically, you can also do away with another logic gate of the three above . With those three you can build the full functionality of any Boolean logic you want.

Even a strong magnet underneath will let you use it to chase the one inside to the drain hole.

Most of the R33 GTST S1 are all like "airbag? What airbag?!"

No. The mark is with respect to the cam rotation. None of those things have altered it. When stationary, the cam position stays in sync with the crank position. It doesn't matter if you moved the head 4 feet up. Hence, that mark needs to stay exactly where it is.

Sell it and buy something newer? 😛

My bet is there's a fuse somewhere you blew that feeds power to the ECU. Or you've bumped something out behind the dash board.

Personally, I'd stick to appropriate sized injectors if you're not going to go shooting for needing all of that fuel flow. Even though ECUs have improved, having that less size still allows for slightly easier fine tuning. Basically, an injector twice the size you need, means giving a small change, is still going to be about twice as big as you might want. Being able to make smaller and finer adjustments can make dial ins easier. ECUs still have a limited resolution they can work with. Why give away 40% of that resolution to something you don't need?

For posting pictures, if you do upload them as a file, they're easy to place where you want. First use the file upload from "Add files" Then in the text editing area place the cursor where you want the picture, make sure if you were to start typing, that text would appear where you want the picture, then scroll down to the add files area, and beside the picture you just uploaded click "Insert" and it will place it exactly where you were ready to type text.

Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure? Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.

There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)

I'm glad to hear you've joined the SKI club. Spend the Kids Inheritance.

He's still joining you, he's just delayed it and won't have the fulleh sick ITBs...

Clamp meter is pointless. Unless you're trying to keep average current under a set value for some weird reason (maybe you undersized your wiring?), then you'll get no useful info. What you're really trying to target is the flow of fuel coming back to the tank. You want some, but not a lot. You also want to make sure fuel pressure remains stable. So, fuel pressure gauge, and fuel flow gauge. Set it up from that.

I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps.

Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?

I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.

It seems like you guys want to behave like rabid dogs, rather than gentlemen... Knowing one has jumped in on a fellow comrades near done deal, and sniped it at the last second, how can one sleep at night?

I wouldn't look too hard at what they did with the R32 GTR in endurance racing in Australia... Lots of things weren't actually available from the factory in the way those cars ran them... Japan also followed what Fred Gibson was doing here with some of there endurance cars in Japan... Australia is also the reason for things like the Brembo brakes, and the change in the gearbox... And quite a few other tricks they used to pull. There's a few other SAU peeps still on these forums that will have heard the stories direct from Alan Heaphy, Fred Gibson, and Jim Richards when we were lucky enough to have a great dinner with them

$53.35 and a double din Pioneer head unit that I have...

Put a camera facing your dashboard so you can film the gauges. Head out to a straight but of road, and filming it as you go from a stand still at wide open throttle to as fast as you can/feel comfortable doing. Then film the dash board as you for example accelerate like normal onto a freeway. This will give us an indicator from Speedo of your expectation of slow, and will give us the rpm reading too to see if it's shifting. (Auto still has tacho from memory)

Buy yourself the cooling system pressure tester. Being able to pump it up, and have a gauge on it, AND have a cold engine makes it much easier / practical to diagnose. Additionally as the engine isn't running, you can listen for pin hole leaks as well as watching if pressure drops away. In addition, you can pressurise and while doing so, watch all the little rubber hoses. Some fail very brittle, and will just leak, while others can end up very soft and bulge. While a bulging hose isn't necessarily leaking, one of those small ones starting to stretch / expand in a bad way is an indicator that you'll be looking to replace that one soon Depending on if this is a project car, or you'll be dailying it in the summer months would alter how I'd be most comfortable with driving the car and how I'd replace. If you're planning to use it as a daily, with no backup, I'd pull the engine, and replace all the external oil/water lines in one big swoop. At the same time do the timing belt, water pump, tensioners etc. Do not open the engine at all. We just want to replace all the things that are inexpensive as a single item, but a PITA when they go. By doing the above, you've made the car from a bunch of age related issues more reliable. If it's a project, and you like swearing while trying to reach into dirty hard to reach places to replace a single hose that may or may not be the leaky one. Just replace the leaking/bad ones as they need it. If it's a project and you'd rather swear at the car once and enjoy it as much as possible, then refer to the process I mentioned in how I'd want to do it if it were a daily. However, the approaches above do come down to how much spare pocket change you have. Pulling the engine and dropping over a thousand dollars on parts, may not be practical for you. Oh, if engine outing, I'd replace as many silicon/rubber inlet joiners as possible too.

I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.

I'm not sure the diode only will give the desired result. I'd probably approach it with a couple of relays (And you still might need a diode too!). You need to be able to break the constant feed from the headlight to the orange corner globe when the indicator is flashing. Not knowing which Skyline we're talking about specifically here too (And it may not matter, but I don't know the R34 column switches) you'd likely need to rewire the stalk, so that the indicator power itself no longer runs through the stalk too, as now you need it able to trigger a relay that will break the constant supply from the headlights to the indicator, then you'll need a separate relay to trigger the indicators to come on (Replacing the internal action of the indicator stalk).

So, Roll Cage for V37 time?! That's a huge mistake. Interestingly I just got my second SMS from St George saying they've made a mistake too and need to send me money. But only $14.93, not as great as yours!