MBS206

If you're good with fusion, make yourself up the part with the curves and rolls etc. Then use that to build yourself a few dies your friend could 3D print you. It'll probably be a multi stage bend / press, though it is possible in one press too! Then get him to print it out can even do online ordering of the piece of steel laser cut. If you have some bolt holes or weight saving holes, these can be used in the dies to locate the steel in place as it bends

What people don't realise, and this is what I got taught over 15 years ago by a very very old school wheel alignment guru (who used to do a lot of setup work on circuit cars, and hill climb cars), is to tune your anti roll bar / sway bar LAST. The reason you leave it till last, is how an anti roll bar works, isn't by adding traction, it actually removes. Hence the old, issues in the front in the corner? Play with the rear sway bar. The stiffer you go, the more apparent grip you have at the other end, but what it has really done is remove grip on the end you went stiffer. Added to that, anti roll/sway bars do nothing to stop weight transfer front to rear, as such, soft springs, stiff roll bar, is lots of dive under brakes turn in, car attempts to body roll, outside rear tyre gets loaded with more weight, but in doing so is actually unloading the inside rear tyre! And that, is why the famous Williams active suspension wins, as it sees a wheel being pushed up, and it pushes that wheel back down harder! For some race cars, soft spring, stiff ARB, can actually work really well depending on the type of racing you're doing where, for example track is super smooth, and you need the car to stay flat, eg, NASCAR, but even they in my understanding have changed their ways back and forth over the years, I'm not sure of their current philosophy. If you have a super stiff anti roll bar, and your in a corner, and hit a bump with one tyre, it's now transferring that load from one side to the other. Effectively, hit a bump with one tyre, but both springs left and right are working to stop it, hence more stiff, more bouncy, as the wheel that hit the bump, is now trying to unload the wheel that didn't hit the bump! The other side, is dampeners and their softness/hardness are NOT meant to be used to make a cars suspension firmer or stiffer per se how people use them. It is, as the name implies, to dampen the oscillations. To hard, and the dampener is doing the work the spring should be, and shit does feel stiff. Too soft and you get multiple oscillations. One bump turns into feeling like you're rolling through waves on the ocean. Therefore, dampeners come AFTER getting spring rates selected. Yes, driver to driver there's always a little bit of tweaking etc. And oddly, changing tyres, also changes how you need to alter things, why? Well that tyre is an undampened spring... Typically, the bigger and softer the side wall, the less oomph transferred from tyre to wheel to suspension. So now you need to tweak it all again (dampeners, sway bars, and the whole cars alignment in general!) Looking into how the suspension moves, how weight moves, how the car rolls, it's all huge. And again, go from one car with suspension style of A, and move to another car with the same style, but Arms have different geometry, can be a game of starting all over again in how and what you do with suspension. I also wonder on the cheap coil overs, how accurate is their spring rates... Has any one ever tested that?

Powder coat a bracket like that a dark colour close to the factory brackets and it'll look good. If you have a 3D printer, print yourself a few die sets up that go in a bench vice, or a hydraulic press. Adding the little lip roll for added strength, and make it from a slightly thinner metal so it's easier to work with. It'll be just as rigid, and with the lips curled and powder coated will be even more factory. You can also make up a die set to put some added little grooves/channels in the sheet for strength in the middle

With running the ZF 8 speed, what are you going to use to talk to the gearbox and run it? Do you have an off the shelf aftermarket box that will pretend to be the ecu etc, or are you programming this into your ECU to actually handle it? Curious on these parts as it may solve a problem for a race car I know of....

Wow, they've really changed old Marulan DTC since new owners have taken over! And looks like they've totally changed my old favourite corner or dropping the front wheel in "the gutter" and just staying on the throttle hard like a roller coaster Those tyres are definitely struggling for you! Not know your power delivery, but I wonder if it would have been a smoother / easier drive up a gear and using the lesser power. Though, I understand the car could be totally gutless being up one gear at those speeds. with the understeer, is that where you seem to be bouncing a bit coming into turn one under brakes, or is the car a bit bouncy normally for you, or is that just the track itself making the car look unsettled? I've not been to Pheasants nest since new owners have it (since living interstate now, ha ha). Wit's the 86, are both front rotors really really terrible, or just one of them? I'm curious if you may have a sticking caliper in the rear if it's both of them possibly? Or if one only, maybe the other front is sticking a bit? This is all on the assumption the one that is showing mad heat and brake dust is still rotating easily like you'd expect and it hasn't stuck, ha ha. I know nothing on the specifics of how the 86 brake system or ABS works either.

Dose and Duncan, do you guys ever have issues where that valve has vented during a warm day, and then at night the tank has cooled and contracted? Issues I could imagine might be the old fuel cap hard to get off as a main thought you could see. My understanding is the fuel cap is sealed, or is it meant to vent and allow air into the tank to stop vacuum situations?

Mark, you must remember, cruise ships aren't built like jet boats... It's probably better you took it through there at 30kmh PS, please keep chasing more power, and taking it to the drags. I want to see you make it able to do this.... https://www.facebook.com/reel/1050511186105137?mibextid=rS40aB7S9Ucbxw6v if it can't lift the wheels at half track, it needs more power...

Except they're supposedly changing turns ¹ and 2. Also completely redoing pit entry, so I suspect the wide exit of T10 that lines you up for smashing pit wall will disappear, as they've also mentioned that as a safety issue. Interestingly, and I'd love someone with more knowledge here, but my understanding is while they need to apply for council DA to be approved, the NSW State Govt still needs to approve it due to it having been kicked up the chain previously. Of which there has been zero comment about/from state govt approval.

I think this has to be a record on SAU for fastest rebuild! Congrats!!!

That's one of those new variable compression pistons for improved fuel economy and emissions...

If I take his 3 years, and add another 9 years... I'd be still a touch shy of mine... Also, I do have an EJ255 and STi 6 speed... I'm sure somehow we can fit it between the chassis rails... 😛 ya know, for lower CG up front Plus, STi parts, then you can tell people how car modding really is an infectious disease...

Turn the parking lights off...

Turn the AC on, you'll be fine I find phones these days, don't even like sitting on a dashboard in a cradle without overheating!

My R33 has been 1.8m under water in the middle of a friend's farm, and then left to sit for two years without even a door opened. It has sat in sheds, driveways, and even my old backyard just on grass. It looks a million times better than the northern hemisphere cars! I've never once in my life, for any of my car's thought about resealing the bottom of one, as that stuff never wears off in my experience. Even on the landcruiser, which has over 450,000km on it, and has been driven in some horrible dirt/gravel/mud! It is good to see this R34 is being looked after and cleaned up!

Bullshit! You can do meth there too...

Once you have the motor out, it's literally exhaust, unbolt centre of tail shaft from chassis (2 bolts) and then 4 bolts for shaft removal from diff, then 4 bolts for gearbox cross member, and the box will drop straight down. Put the engine in the car, onto engine mounts loosely, leave engine attached to crank, but at rear of engine. Engine will tilt backward a bit. With 2 people is easiest, offer box up to engine, do a few bolts up. Tilt the engine and box back to normal position, and put everything back together. Putting engine and box I to the GTST is doable, but it's a lot of weight, up high, at an awkward angle. If you're not really careful, you're going to scratch the firewall, the tunnel, or the radiator support, or all 3. Ask me how I know... It is possible to also offer the motor to the gearbox with gearbox still in position, in this instance, I'd have engine mounts removed from engine to give you ease of sliding engine forwards/backwards to get your bush shafted, without smashing mounts to cross member while trying to line it all up. However you do it, the absolute most important thing to do, is make 100% sure the clutch plate is align before tightening the pressure plate. I strongly recommend buying, borrowing, begging, or even stealing one to help yourself (or a spare gearbox input shaft). If clutch plate isn't aligned, no matter how much of a master you are, you'll look like a teenager trying to do it for the first time, possibly even asking yourself "is it in? is that it? Am I doing this right?"

Just put a modern RB in it. And by that, I mean a Barra...

Ahh, sounds like it has probably been on its way for a while. Too many wasps mate, you'll need some mortein for it 😛

Sounds like someone just needs a way to get some more rear brake proportion in as step one. Step two, bigger balls. 😛 ha ha ha ha ha

I'm going to throw this in here as a thought on brakes. But if ABS is already kicking in Hella hard, you won't really be able to "brake harder" as your limiting factor is already the tyres, yeah? I understand if the rears aren't at their limit, going a bit bigger / slightly more rear bias will help there, but going to a larger front rotor, you're just adding more brake force at the front, which is already on the limit right?

I just went and double checked to make sure my terminology was right: - Drag Radial, supposedly good for breaking axles and stuff, typically outright a quicker tyre. This is the "solid clutch center" I made the analogy to. - Drag Slick, more forgiving, as sidewall flexes and lets the wheel rotate a bit, outright a touch slower, but a more consistent tyre over different surfaces/temperatures etc. This is the "sprung clutch center" I made the analogy to. Not sure if there are road legal drag slicks available though, so means you'd need to take two tyres, jack, and rattle gun with you. Maybe get yourself a 4WD and car trailer... More expensive than NRMA though As to the launch, so you're sitting there at like idle, and then just roll onto the loud pedal? You would have to test this with your car in particular, but you might find it quicker off the mark with holding the brake, stalling against it, and getting the rear end to already be torqued up, AND pulling the suspension down. It also means any and all play in the driveline has been removed already. I'd start by doing it with a little bit of throttle to just squat the rear, and as you come off the brake, you don't need to roll it into full noise instantly, though, you have the TCS system, so you possibly can get away with rolling to full noise pretty quickly, but leaving it that split second does at least allow the car to START moving a little before you throw all the killawasps at the diff and axles :P

It's got no twist in it compared to the twist in the broken one!!! Before you bin the broken bits, can you tell me if the ABS tone wheels can come off those shafts or are they welded on to it? Which drag tyres have you been running to? I remember years ago chatting to a drag racer, and he'd only run one style of drag tyres, as it allowed way more flex in the rubber, the other sort he didn't like was stiffer, and it's just snap the shafts all the time. Kind of like running a sprung vs unsprung clutch centre, but it's at the tyre. Are you stalling the motor by trans brake, or by using the brakes so the whole drive line is loaded up?

If the Minister asks, it's a no. But covert operation says yes

The rear floor mats. Even to this day I reckon are wickedly awesome! Some days I wish I still had some of that stuff for mine rather than stripped out to be used for track work only. At the time though, someone needed a way to make it less street able so I would keep my license / not die.

The country doesn't have gutters. Just huge ditches on the side of the road... 😛