MBS206

Let's keep it OT. I bought a 2010 Swift Sport dirt check. I myself love the thing. Until you're driving it for a while. Mine is basically chairs with no padding. They kept it simple by never adding much of the unnecessary stuff, this includes ANY sound deadening, so it's loud. Low profile tyres, and suspension that is about as soft as a go karts... It's not "quick" in a straight line, mine makes about 100hp at the flywheel from the factory. (HKS from memory make a bolt on turbo kit that can take it to 200hp at the wheels...). However, it can deliver the power, while in a corner. It's super light, and REALLY chuckable. The only thing I would warn people about... if you're pushing it hard in a corner, and need to lift, you better do it very delicately, or you're going to be facing the direction you came from about 0.01s after you lift... Oh, and to stop, just look at the brake pedal and you'll headbutt the windscreen. Each time I drive it however, it makes me laugh at how fun it is to drive. We have the MIL's Mazda 2 at the moment. No thanks, you can keep those! You can add to the list to look at being the Corollas too. Also, if you're thinking Prado, got a 2015 or newer Rav4 instead.

BRB need to go pickup the PoleStar2 Twin Motor vehicle...

Ha ha ha! Would love to, but nothing to enter into it with, or easy way to get something there. At the moment I've got the work Hyundai Kona EV, and while I think it'd be interesting to give it a thrash, she'd be good for 2 hot laps at most before I hit temperature limits on the batteries. And that leaves me with the swift, which would be an awesome track car, but it's not registered, and no easy way to tow it there Unfortunately the cruiser leaks oil faster than a sinking Ship can, and Sarah bent the Subaru 2 weeks ago, so it's waiting on assessment Maybe I should steal works Veloster, it at least looks like a race car, and has the exhaust, intake, and tune to match what time is it starting out there?

Is the time Attack on Thursday night, or it's an all day event?

Double check the AFM is plugged in too, AND both temp sensors are plugged in too. Do a huge double check for air leaks too.

I gotta say, years ago in my R33, I was fine with the HICAS. Once it was back up at standard ride height that is. But, what was described where you'd throw it in, it'd help tip it in, and you'd feel like you've tipped in too much. I learned you have to be prepared to commit, you need to know it's going to do it, and then you could drive through hard with it. My thoughts on it were, while it could help make a shit driver make the turn, shit driver would still be slow as they themselves would be sawing at the wheel thinking they've tipped in too far, hence they're fighting HICAS. Kind of like the GTR drivers you see have the rear end come start to come out, so they drive it like a RWD, and not an ATTESSA fitted vehicle that needed you to commit and let the system work. As for why is it not used in racing? There would be a lot more reasons than just "it's shit". Part being much higher wear and tear from racing, and being controlled pretty openly by a computer, unlike wear/movement you can get in a front rack the driver is the feedback loop. Improving reliability of the car if you take a bump in the back by being able to beef the rear end up a little. Weight, especially in the R32. Heat, (in the R32). Simplifying repairs. Simplifying setting up and tuning the suspension at each track. Now you've really gotta look at some form of caster in the rear, and understand that because the rear wheels can now pivot on the contact patch, you've introduced a completely new realm for how the tyre will cycle in the suspension. Look at it on the front, as you cycle the suspension up and down, and look at the contact patch changing, now do that same cycle as you're turning the steering wheel. Adds a whole new level of complexity. Add in again, drivers not being used to it at all as it's new tech. Look at the old crazy turbo cars that were laggy and then hit like a sledge hammer, circuit guys took time to learn how to drive them. Hence, because of lots of reasons, it can be easier to just ditch it, especially if it's not gaining you THAT much extra on the track, vs something like learning your way around an extra 200hp from a laggy turbo. Oh, also, lastly, it could potentially be regulations too.

Will back up what trident said. Pull it again, and check the marks. Take photos of all the marks and post them. Also check the harmonic hasnt spun the outter section which has the timing marks. Also check you've reconnected everything properly, all pipes, cables etc. Do you have adjustable cam gears, or factory ones? When you say it won't rev, does it start all perfectly normal, but then you try and press the accelerator and it won't rev up? Or you're having to start the motor with throttle, especially a lot of it? If the latter, I suspect you have one cam advanced massively, another retarded massively, and you've done this by lining the gears up on the wrong mark. Been there, done it myself on an RB25DE head. Car would start and run a bit, but was basically at WOT only it would run (and wasn't much over idle RPM). I also had an aftermarket ECU, so was running MAP not AFM.

Upgrade anything you need to remove, that could help performance. Like the exhaust. While you're there, may as well do the turbo since it touches the exhaust too... Get the tailshaft double checked too...

Am I correct in assuming you're not running factory computer, and have changed the master cylinder? I have no recollection of a vacuum assist clutch, or anti stall being factory. For that matter, 950rpm is also high idling for an RB25/26, especially if stock.

What was your best 1/4 mile before this?

Holy shit! That sounds awesome! It's intriguing me to go back soon and read all the pages to figure out what has that sounding so wickedly different!

Nah, you just ruined that car by putting that pioneer headunit in your car... But legit, I've got a bit of a hate case with Pioneer now. Used to solely use their head units. However, the last two double din units. First one started doing weird shit at about 18months old with Bluetooth. Legit thought it a phone issue more than anything. 24 month mark and it did the same weird thing. Then restarted, then turned itself off. Never worked after that. Pioneer didn't want to know about it. Drove for 12 months with no music in that car. Put another double din in from pioneer. 18 month mark, has started doing the same thing. Haven't driven said car in 11 months now, but I suspect the head unit won't have much life left, IF it turns back on at all...

I agree and disagree. If the issue for example is on the pin into the ECU, it could definitely throw a red herring for it. Also I think others suggested checking continuity everywhere... ha ha I've even seen auto sparkys fall victim to it too. A mechanic diagnosed a car of ours as bad fuel pump. New pump in. Same issue. "But there's 12V at the plug and it has continuity too! Turns out the power cable to the fuel pump had 4 hot joints. Not enough to break continuity, and you'll always see the full voltage when you unplug it at the pump and test power. Even at only 10ohms, max current our fuel pump could see was 1.44amps, and that's IF the car was already running at 14.4v Try and crank and max current is <1amp. Very very different to this fuel pump issue, only raise it as a good reason people need to be aware of it. Many I've spoken to think if they have continuity, shit should work. On the flipside, cheap $10 multis on continuity and be beneficial to check my PCBs when I'm soldering them for horrible shorts super quickly. Then I sometimes just go with a smoke test... That reminds me, I should order a few spare cans of electrical smoke to keep on the shelf... Ha ha ha

Guys, STOP using continuity beeps as your test. They'll lead you astray something shocking. For example, high quality Fluke Multimeters state they'll only show continuity if circuit resistance is between 0 and 50ohms. Cheap multimeters I've seen much much higher resistance and still getting continuity beeps. To give you an idea, if you have 40 ohms of resistance on a wire that's either giving power to the relay coil, or taking power from the relay coil to ground, then adding that in with the typical 140ohms of a coil resistance, when you try to activate said relay you'll end up with a roughly 3v drop in the 40ohms, leaving only 9v, and a lack of current at the coil, meaning it may not trigger. Please measure actual resistance not "continuity beeps". your first post, you state you have had this problem since you drained your fuel tank. You also state "you may have crossed some wires" so my question is, how did you actually "possibly cross some wires"? What exactly did you do, and at which plugs, to get the fuel pump to let you drain stuff. I have a small idea of how you could have killed the ECU if it is 100% the issue...

$300 monopoly cash?

I was about to post to ask what roughly prices would be for doing something like this! Going to need one to go from teh T5 Barra box, to the middle flange on an R33 Tail shaft. Probably best to redo all the centre bearings and rear joints etc too on the original back half of the shaft.

Ahhh... The dreaded conversation of "But it needs to be replaced as they don't make the old parts any more, so we need to change them over..."

On a setup where the fuel reg is at the other end of the rail, and hence returning to tank from the engine bay, Apart from at restart, fuel temp at the rail, should be so close to fuel temp at your flex sensor, it would be negligible. Reason being, the amount of fuel flowing past at speed through the main item (fuel rail) that will heat it up, and pulling heat away. By the time you've primed the fuel pump for 3 seconds, and then gone straight to crank, for say another 2 seconds, that fuel is matching pretty much the temp of your flex sensor. The rail may be hotter, but the fuel is barely increasing due to the speed it's going past at. The part where you get "fuel heat soak" is when you don't have enough fuel in the tank, and just keep pumping it past a hot thing really quickly, and it's picking up small amounts of heat more than it can drop off. Our tanks are plastic these days, not great for heat transfer out... Think of it like turning the kitchen tap on and waiting for the cold water to come through in summer. It gets through and rapidly changes from hot, to cold. This does take a while in some houses, as the water that's truly cold, is a LONG way away from your tap. Even if you held an Oxy Acetylene torch to your tap, the amount of water rolling through won't make the outlet temp change much at all. You also need to be careful where you install a temp sensor, and how much you're relying on that temperature. Temperature sensors have a first order response, which means they can't be super quick. Secondly, most I've seen are a metal sensor, in a metal housing. You screw that into a metal item, you're more likely to be measuring the metal temp you screwed into, than the liquid you want to measure. IE metal could be hotter from other factors, or could be getting more cooling and hence reading lower. Even from your data, from 10c to 90c, that's only a 7% variation when on 100% fuel. At startup, I bet you could easily remove 15% fuel from your cranking table and it would still start up, especially when warm. A returnless system obviously does have more heat soak type issues in it, as fuel isn't leaving the rail, except through the engine...

Being that this is a conversion, there could be so many things going on here. You could have a bad pump, wiring issues, it could be how the rail has been plumbed, where the Fuel Pressure Regs are located instead, etc etc. Without detailed explanation, from vehicle, pumps, wiring, how the whole fuel system is as a whole, the engine of choice, etc etc. Pretty hard to diagnose from online. As this has been what you've just been tuning, you could be low on fuel, pump may not be able to properly build pressure etc, could be an internal leak inside the fuel tank, and hence when its hot it might be struggling to push fresh fuel through.

That's a better location for crap, rather than stacked on top of the non functional cars in the garage like some people do!

Just on a note for this Duncan. On the relay coil, your higher voltage should be on 86, your lower voltage (typically ground) should be on 85. It "won't matter" right up until you install a relay that uses a diode instead of a resistor to kill the coils flyback. When it's the wrong way, the diode allows a short circuit from power to earth. Great way to fry electronics / cables or relays and fuses. Good way to remember is high number, to the higher voltage

I've seen the way you drink... You'll drown...

Hey Dose... Time to get to tuning... Preset to 350kPa but we can ramp that bad boy up. Get you some more PSIs and more flows!!!

My Pop used to live there (He's now passed), even Nan wouldn't drink the water, nor would anyone else. My cousin has lived there now for about 24 years. Still won't drink Dubbo water, ha ha ha It has the weirdest flavour! That being said, we've also had times in Brisbane where the smells, and tastes, like dirt. Normally after a flood, and its from extra "totally safe" organic water matter up stream of the water processing plants.

I have a query, but why do you want to hold back the outright capability of the mechanical system? Would it not be better to build a system that is responsive as possible, that meets your upper requirements, and then use electronic measures to control and manage it? That way you're not left with a car that you might want a bit more response from but can't mechanically achieve it. That's my frame of mind on all of this. Would mean you also have a more responsive and driveable car on the freeway etc without needing to drop gears. Power on tap with mid throttle.