MBS206

If you don't relocate, you have to modify the upper and lower timing covers. Much easier to relocate.

Well one huge thing people keep claiming is that the compressor stalls, a lie right there. Yes they slow, just as much as a turbo with a bov.

Wrong... Look at the design of the impellar. It's uni directional. Ie only forces acting in one direction will make it turn. Running no bov causes laggy gear shifts if the pressure source for wadtegate is on the ic piping not the manifold. As the wadtegate stays open and no gases are turning the turbine. When I get home I'll dig up some info on why it won't cause damage and the lies people spill about them

Lets consider for a minute the fact that most race cars don't run a BOV. Lets consider for a minute the ONLY reason they were created was for emmisions reasons. Lets consider for a minute the only people who started spouting about engine wear and turbo wear were the manufacturers of aftermarket BOVs... The only thing they will do is remove "dose" (Which is perfectly fine, non damaging and doesn't slow the compressor down) I run a MASSIVE fark off turbo, laggy as hell, and between shifts, it comes snapping back on full boost. The real way to setup a wastegate will prevent lag between shifts from not running a BOV...

STFU... Or I come do a skid in your driveway... And if I do that... You're risking having an RB30 shit itself catastrophically...

Steveo just ran out of DC on 1000CC injectors at 6000RPM on 23PSi... Also, what does the Aeromotive flor at 65PSi? Have any flow VS pressure maps? Might be great to flow 450Litres at basic rail pressure (IE, atmospheric pressure) but hit 20PSi, and at 62PSi, what does it flow? Also, the lift pump won't be under pressure, so it'll flow more then both of the pressurised 044s are...

If you turn cruise control on, and you pay less attention, you're a moron. Cruise control allows you to pay more attention to other things rather then checking the speedo every 0.5 seconds, such as blind spots, mirrors, sides of the road, etc. Cruise you have to be very alert with, if a light turns red up ahead, you have to be aware and cancel the cruise to coast to the light... Electronic Stability control, well this here little gadget is much like traction control and ABS, they really only kick in once the dunder clump behind the wheel has f**ked up. ABS kicks in ONCE a tyre locks up. ESC kicks in (Proper stability control, not the shit in the EVOs and GTR etc) once you've lost control. Traction Control kicks in once you've started wheel spinning (Or in some cases some cars programmed to know 100% throttle in 1st gear WILL equal wheel spin) so it's only kicking in, AFTER the dunderclump has f**ked up. The funny part, when ABS kicks in on most cars, because people aren't taught about it, they actually do the worst thing ever... That is, remove the foot from the pedal... Wrong action, you should push it harder. The same as ESC, when it kicks in, you shouldn't be trying to play with throttle and opposite lock, as the car will straighten itself out. (We found this out in a mates VE... dial in the oppy lock, catch the slide, ESC kicks in and you instantly head for the gutter) turn the corner though, f**k it up, make it slide and enter typical peoples "freeze" mentality, and the car exited the corner as if nothing ever happened. External Vehicle Speed Control is purely being bought about because of a minority of f**k tards, who generally claim "I don't need my car to do shit for me" push it beyond the limits, f**k it all up, and kill people. If you drive a car normally, with in it's limits (Obviously some of these devices are a hinderance on the RACE TRACK!) then traction control, stability control, and ABS should NEVER come into effect. They should be sitting in the back ground go "oooo la-de-da, would you like a cup of tea Mr Driver?" Stop bitching, you have full control of your vehicle, these control systems have proven to make cars safer on the road. Oh, and for the matter of what happened with my mates VE, the people who are quick enough to catch a slide are also quick enough to get the oppy lock OFF when the ESC does kick in.

Check your PCV, how's it all plumbed in (The breather lines) Looks like an issue I had... Also, if the front seal goes, it'll pump oil through like you have. If you've truly done a ring landing, in my experience when on boost it'll go fine for a bit, then just blow a shit load of oil... It's how mine used to... Just pressurised the crank and oil goes everywhere through the motor When mine dropped a ring landing, I had a miss on idle (Sounded like lumpy cams) a drop in power, but the car ran smoothly once up off idle, and blew smoke after a bit of kicking it in the guts... Do a compression test... I had cylinder 3 drop to 70PSi, when I did the wet test, it went to 125... The sad part... All other cylinders held out at 155PSi dry, 165 wet...

Luke, this is somehting I've been looking at at the moment as well. Every person has advised me to run a single Bosch 044 to feed the swirl pot.

Very interested in this also... And as Mark is, I is very noob to the world of CAMS and racing as well...

Ha ha ha... You know that over heating problem... yeah... Turned out to be sensors... It never over heated Mine still runs... I can start it... It just makes funny noises... Hey, that's what limiter abuse does... Maybe we'll have to dual down at the quarry soon... I don't know when I'll need those pumps at the moment, the whole E85 debacle is on hold at the moment... Money reasons...

Any news on a date?

How'd you go? Times?

If that's the case, your whole tune should be richer then what the actual AFR was reading... But more it sounds like the injectors should be replaced... 700cc should idle perfectly. And if you check all the exhaust and find no leaks I'd be looking at the tune and injectors.

I'm going to keep pissing myself laughing at all the idiots responding to your thread. But to help you out, there will be no off the shelf gasket available unless you looked towards Greddy, but what would be alot cheaper, and work just as well, head to Repco/AutoBahn/SuperCrap and grab yourself a tube of gasket sealant. Put a thin layer down around everything, like around everything, around bolt holes aswell etc...

Dude, my Supra never had a 2JZ-GTE in it. It was destined for one when it went to car heaven. Wrong model. Everything sounds right to me. Except you.

It's actually been proven the only instance of which ABS will take longer to stop is on a loose surface, such as dirt or gravel. Why? Because in that circumstance the quickest way to stop a vehicle is to lock the wheels, and force them to "plow" the dirt creating a build up infront of the tyres which is more effective at slowing them down. PS: Jax, drive down the street, have a kid unexpectedly run out in front of you, and tell me you can stop your car without locking a tyre. Whilst driving around a race track, you expect the tyres to lock, so you can quickly modulate the brakes to free them... Unfortunately, after 8 hours of work, and getting the shits with the daily traffic, you're mind is so far "off track" that when something unexpected happens, you do freeze, and faulter... ABS is good on the street.

Whatdo you mean by power steering pump to suck it? The reservour is still above the pump right?

That pump looks non standard, mayb 044, definitely not an 040. Looks like an abomination of a mounting setup though... I'd fix that up first...

At what revs?

If it's blowing black smoke, it's not a head gasket. Sounds like a cooler pipe or a vacuum line somewhere just toasted itself. Hence, the unplug the AFM and it wants to run okay.

Change it before going for inspection.Put a compliance cat in. You want it 100% legal when you go for an inspection.

0.5KPA relative is 0.072PSi relative.

I'd be looking at the harness or ignitor. You just said you pulled the coil plug off and it didn't change anything. I'd be looking right there at the spark. Pull the plug out, shove it in the coil pack, hold it against the head and see if it really sparks.

He said 6ITB > 1 Single. He did not say 4ITB > 1 Single.