MBS206

If you want a cheap fix, and to avoid touching your old motor (To avoid court complications) go buy a second hand RB25DET, use the head off of it. Use the oil pump from it. Gives you the harmonic balancer you need also.

You would have the check valve so if fuel flowed out, it would close up. The check valve won't close up from air movement, too slow, not enough force. If it were a change of say the tank being pressurised 50PSi, then yeah, it'd close, but not from heat expansioin.

I'm talking during your test.

PCV connected or disconnected?

sounds like the cross over may be blocked if the intake side seems like "nothing" and outlet is pumping it out...

Or "Get there before the oil spitting, bearing munching R33 does"?

Mark... I'm tempted to f**k with the tune, ramp it up to 20PSi... Only issue being, at 14PSi it already starts to valve float at 6500RPM... It is tempting to do a self "guess" tune and see if she holds... Come home and do new things... LOL

Love you too door...

Least my car drives... And doesn't have aeration to the fuel system... Maybe I'll be nice and let Chubbsy drive it over to the dyno day...

The question is... Do I leave my car alone, get some how get it up there in a manner I can come home if it breaks the bearing, and see what this turbo is currently able to push in the current form...

lol

If you use say 75% throttle, does it do the same, 90% throttle? If no, there's a wiring issue, and it sounds like something is crossing up with the TPS sensor. Edit: Simple test, with key switched to on, engine off, put the accelerator flat to the floor, does the AFM read 5V? Edit: Just checked the wiring diagram, and there is the variable TPS read out, and there is an idle/WOT switch also. I'd be guessing the WOT switch could be connected over to the AFM by accident if the above test yields a "yes, it reads 5V at WOT engine off"

They are...The older V6 commodores love to get on the break... The 3.6L prefer to make power in revs over torque, and aren't as easy to have fun with.

LOL, those 3.6L are shit...Should have bought a slightly older 3.8L... They just love to skid!

LOL @ everyone going "I'm in" and not realising the thread started on Friday, and was meant for a friday cruise... ROFL

If mine weren't so much of a pain in the ass to take off my car, I'd pull it off and lend it to you. It's a good plazmaman cooler. That way you could just do a test on it.

Put a V8 in... Or a stock turbo back on, or rebuilt with steel wheels at least

You'll probably be looking around the 320RWKW region I'd reckon with that turbo on a 25/30... The difference will be though, it'll make that power 1000RPM earlier, with more torque. On the street it just won't be comparable to a 320RWKW RB25

Thought I'd let you all know, I'm not coming, got home at 5:30AM, have barely slept, and skyline isn't starting atm.

Not with 390RWKW...

Oh okay, didn't realise there was a difference... :S Figured a 50mm gate when it opens 1mm has the same surface area opening as any other? Have any more info on the synchronic? he only had issues when he ran with the screamer on.

If you keep it below 6500RPM, and keep boost below 18PSi, she'll be sweet man. Unless you're a thrasher, that goes out every weekend ripping massive 2nd and 3rd gear burnouts. Even then still depending how you drive it'll hold together for a while. My setups, I'd have no issues running IF I were just driving around on the street and the occasional WSID meet. But mine ONLY lives at driving events... Hence, a hard hard life...

If youwant streetable response, look at the GT3076 or the 3082. When that gets thrown on the RB25/30, you'll have an unreal combination that will NOT have to be revved, but will be able to when needed.

They're easy! Why do people dread them so much? :S

I know the VRS kit comes with all the seals you need. Including a head gasket, inlet mani and exhaust mani. You could go to Nissan and buy them seperate. Probably cost you $100 or there abouts. VRS kit = $330 from Nissan.