MBS206

Everything packed and ready to go! Wow... There's a first for having the car ready before the midnight before the event... LOL

I'm trying to make it a new Fad to have oran park race way mud sprayed up under the car... Anyone who isn't in the group can no longer apply, memberships have closed...

Liz having a brain fade - Check.

Whistling turbo - Check Chattery ass end on tight lock - Check Power steering not leaking any more - Check

Um... my L2S application says "Attach a photo here" but if you guys don't want em, I'm not bringing one...

Locked diff - Check Smokey turbo - Check Shitty rubber - Check Good rubber - Check Tools/fluids - Check Extinguisher - Check Helmet - Check Crappy long sleeve tshirt - Check Cams licence application - Check (just need a photo)

You expecting to get laid huh?

Fire extinguisher.

I'm after swinging to 8500 RPM but on a 3L... Also, people say it's "in the lift and duration" how? do they lift less but have an uber long duration or something? I want to know that if you ran a 256degree Turbo cam, what the difference is to a 256 NA cam...

In regards to cams, what are the differences from NA to Turbo?

doo eeet

Semi slicks (A048), on stock suspension (Squats down VERY well). (This is on the track too frying in 3rd after warming the tyres up) The main killer, is as you said, the "Light switch" delivery. It is very much light switch, and I'd like to head down to something like a 3076. (Turbo is quite large and laggy... Won't really "come alive" till I'm pushing 24+ PSi, only on 14 atm)

I run a "250RWKW" RB25/30DET... It turns the tyres at 130KM/H in 3rd... No, it's not a nice power delivery, nothing below 3500RPM, full boost at like 4000 - 4500RPM... Turning tyres from 4000RPM onwards... Power isn't the main thing to worry about (Power from a 25DET isn't really comparable to that of a 30DET as they make the same power, lower revs, more torque) I believe a couple of the guys are running 25/30s with stock 25 turbos on them and are able to turn the tyres in 2nd/3rd with just a prod of the throttle too... The torque from a well setup 25/30 is just unbelievable...

For a street car... I'd be going the 25/30 but actually probably looking at the 3540 or a touch smaller. On the street, for a very tractable car, you want and need response. Also, in the comparison of a 25DET VS 25/30DET, think about the fact, they may both make 400KW, but the 25/30 will do it roughly 1000RPM earlier... Meaning there is way more torque being put down, which is what makes you go fast.

Wow.... This place echos...

He means fuel rail pressure. If they were 650 - 700cc I'd be expecting near stock fuel rail pressure

And in terms of air pressure sensing, they call it a filter... The pulsing is referred to as "noise". And it's designed to filter out the noise.

Can't rev the engine whilst cold. It's not perfectly tuned yet for cold starts etc, it will only idle. The head is coming off, I've heard there is a proper way to pressure test them. I want to know how so I can. Heads being pulled no matter what soon, not because of the Valve Stem Seals.

Stereos... What are they?

Hence why I love my dirty 30... 60 Degrees advanced on the inlet, 60 degrees retarded on the exhaust, never touched a single valve into a piston...

I'd be going with the bent stud or bolt. Mine walked off majorly when the tensioner didn't sit flush. Pull it all off and check it.

The one I have is near on perfect with compression. Luck of the draw really. But now I appear to have either head issues or turbo issues... And I couldn't justify more then the $660 I spent in total that got me a clutch as well. Pistons/bearings and then paying someone to do the machine work... Not the way i treat it... As for what'll break first... I'm trying for a piston through the block, or a bent rod at least...

I like the way you work... Sounds a bit like mine, except I didn't even rebuild it... Just need to change a few things, then push its limits...

I'm seeing LOTS of smoke... At the moment the turbo is, and it all appears fine... That's the problem... I'm seeing a SHITLOAD of smoke once I boost up for 2 - 3 seconds, and a shitload if I pump it back to 3rd gear at around 130 - 140KM/H with closed throttle.

Hey guys, I'm probably going to be pulling my head off again within the next few months, and would like to know, how do you test the valve stem seals properly when the head is off. I read a post where Trent was saying that when they change them, they have to pressure test them (which you can't do when you leave the head on and do them with the special tool) so I'd like to know, how you do test them? I want to pull the head to put an oil restrictor in, and also to change the valve springs (I know I can do it with head on, but I want to put the restrictor in too) at the same time, I'd like to pressure test the valve stem seals in case they're shot...