MBS206

The fuel pump bracket just slides straight up. Below is a pic I stole off a site. But basically put hand in for fuel pump, wiggle it all about a bit while pulling up.

Went digging Duncan, there's another "item" that sits down under the plenum that the second pipe from the IACV goes down to. I believe that's the one that is apart of the cold start portion, and it then comes back up under the middle of the factory top plenum. I believe you will find it is unneeded on the forward facing plenum on Cheryl. I just went digging further for some pics on the location of the one way check valve, and found something that confirms my thoughts from the first half of this point. I feel you can just block off that port that is coming down. I can also confirm, the other line that you were thinking for vacuum that will just need a one way valve put into Cheryl is 100% correct too. The one way valve is normally screwed into the back of the factory inlet plenum.

My OCD says that exhaust is sticking way to far out for a BMW. Sorry for making you now upset with your exhaust again...

Those injectors are 100% Nismo 555.

I found this in another thread, now I'm second guessing myself and thinking there was a vac line from near the throttle body to up to the IACV too.

Hey Duncan, What ports are on the plenum itself? The new part welded up for the AAC looks like it's a T Piece to go upto brake master, and the other side into the plenum to feed air in. Brake master vac line on R33 from memory has a one way valve inside of it I believe (middle of pipe). I'll check mine tonight when I get home, I think that pipe is still sitting on my R33. You're also testing my memory, but I don't believe the R33 has a cold start valve, it just has the IACV doesn't it? That second smaller port on the IACV itself from factory, goes down and under the inlet manifold, but I can't remember what it plumbs to.

For something like this, I'd skip just going for the cheapest, I'd find the place with the best experiences people have had, especially for restoration work. Like everything, there is upholsterers, and then there is upholsterers. Some really great upholsterers for automotive restos won't even appear to have an online presence. My guide would be find some of the old school classic cars that have been fully restored and are immaculate, and ask the people who own them who did the work on their seats

Those brackets are known for snapping. Easy to fix the metal, and a good seat reupholsterer can fix the rest. I'd potentially get them to look at making new foam too. Even if you've got the old, it will be partly compressed / not as supportive as it should be.

Is Chris from Craved Coatings still around? He is an ex SAU guy and did great powder coating (back in the day at least)

I'm shocked, you've owned a Skyline since 2006 and never joined SAU before now! 😮 Welcome, it's much quieter these days than it was in 2006, but lots of very knowledgeable ones lurk around here. I actually think in outage we've forgotten more about Skylines than anyone knows about them today... 😛

So it could give us some info. Such as we find out what number they started at, and we know how many of those blocks came before it.

Everyone wants an ECU they can plug onto their engine, modified or not, and put of the box it just runs perfectly like a brand new modern engine straight off the production line. Too many people just don't understand things like the base maps are as you said, just to give a starting point, and then you need to spend time getting it right for your vehicle. I wonder if the people wanting it are the same ones who'll just buy a chip for a "stage 2 tune" online and then wonder why their engine blew up...

Quite possible! And well worth checking out, as it will be more durable than paint

Instead of the paint on the shiney pipes, would you consider going with getting them ceramic coated, and then powder coated black?

What are your plans for your blow off valves? Purely plumb back? How soft will the spring in them be? AFM can be tricky to get super smooth and nice, especially depending on the rest of the system, and then can be very easily upset if something slightly changes. IE, even if you run recirc blow off valves, you could still see issues getting it to behave at certain load points as turbos might start to spool, but you release the throttle but it's not enough pressure to crack the bov open to recirc, and you can end up with reversion which can cause double metering, and hence dumping of fuel into the system, and stalling the engine. If you're going to run a map sensor for closed loop boost control from the ECU, what makes you want to keep the AFM?

If you want to do a single throttle body conversion easily, you won't need to pull anything apart. Take the linkage from your throttle off the linkage controlling the ITBs. Now open the ITBs wide open, and lock the linkages in said position. Now add a single throttle body onto the front of your inlet plenum. No it's not ideal for the last nth of a kw, but it'll be a lot better than what you're already trying to do... PS, ITBs can be so damn hard to tune from, because roughly 20% movement in a throttle body equates to a change in roughly 80% of its flow (Hence power). When you add up the flow limitations of those small throttle bodys, it is a LOT higher than that of a single large throttle. Hence, TPS is very very sensitive with them, and you do a LOT of work with sensor fusion, and some Maths behind the scenes to make those blends nice, and be smooth.

Yep, when Haltech purchased Adaptronic, and all of the Adaptronic staff, including Andy went with it, it took Haltech to the next level. Haltech wanted Adaptronic as they wanted things like Andy's fuel models, and some other IP, AND they wanted Andy too as he is brilliant! Andy has spoken about the incompatibilities between the old 1500 stuff vs Nexxus, and it totally makes sense. It's not JUST software that is different, there is huge changes in the underlying hardware too. It's why Haltech has had soooo many changes in the last couple of years, in terms of Hardware, and Software, and why it has become so damn Amazing. Why do you think guys like Rob Dahm with his quad rotor, went from running Adaptronic's to running Haltechs? Andy. Pretty much, Haltech these days, is Adaptronic, but with more funds behind it, and more staff, and hence Andy's visions, and visions of other people that he helps shape their great visions, into amazing new products. All the new Nexxus gear, whole new software for it, new and better dashboards, the apps that will run on headunits and NOT be slow to respond! I understand people being burnt in the past, but if you're ragging on a company, about products and issues from many years ago, it's more a reflection on yourself, not looking or keeping up with new stuff. In which case, those people should be going back to PowerFC and Nistunes as the ECU's to rave on about...

And I'd be astonished if a bolt on kit truly were bolt straight on, hence I bet the recommendation for a pro to install it.

Forgot to mention. I love the fact that Greg, Gregged Up, the model of his car, that has so many gregged up stories about its build! I had to have a little laugh. At the same time thinking "That's the sort of thing I'd do to myself!"

Hopefully it's enough to help with the temps! I was also only shit stirring, regarding Murphy's Law basically. I've found, what ever spare parts I have, are the parts I don't break. Ever. Also have never had issues with oil/spinning bearings until I put oil pressure gauges on the car. 😛

Alright guys, I've got good odds the motor survives due to a majority of spare parts. Who's taking bets on clutch, who's on transmission, and who's go diff? Happy to also take bets on if it still overheats in traffic or not 😛 Car looks amazing by the way. I've never been a fan of R34 rears, so really, I don't think any body kit etc solves that for myself, but the front end looks amazing!

Do you think they'll merge there performance divisions and we'll end up HoMo?

That's only needed if you want to make sure it's all good, and safe, and reliable, and runs etc. I reckon I could do it for farrrrrr less than these guys are saying. Fab up a dodgy pipe to go from the twin exhaust outlets to one, a turbo from Bunnings for $400, then fab up a new outlet pipe. I reckon I could do a high mount turbo for under $2k... Now whether the motor grenades when it comes onto boost the first time... That's a different question. And I'd hope, being a Skyline, especially a GTR, there is more put into it than a dodgy Bunnings turbo...

Once you learn it all, you find you do the job once. But this is the best way to learn, as you won't forget the lessons

Because the cars wheels are on blocks, you slide under the car. Pretty much all the bolts you touched should have been put in, but not fully torque up. Back them off a turn or two, and then tighten them up from under the car with the wheels sitting on the blocks holding car up in the air.