MBS206

I run an R33 RB25DE head, valve floats about 6500RPM with 1 Bar of boost on my turbo (Big mean mother trucker). I also run the R33 25DE cams, the car "makes" 250RWKW... BUT this was on a dyno there was complaints the following day of ultra low readings, add to the fact no matter what we did it wouldn't stop wheel spinning above 5000RPM...

Put the MX5 on and see if it makes 75% of the power it should be...

If you're running a 25DE head, make sure you change the valve springs as the 25DE springs are soft, and do not like boost.

For your claimed power, you should be running mid/high 12s... 190 - 200RWKW is seeing consistent 12.9s from people.

Coolant doesn't move. I've been told by numerous people it's oil. When it does any one standing around smells burning oil. It's blue but not super blue like when a magna/excel takes off with stuffed rings.

Jess complete noobie for this kind of stuff. Just sent app via email. Matt Sullivan.

A GTS-t is that light, not a GTS4. And commodores are way lighter then 1551KG. PS: take it to a drag strip and find out.

They create load affectively the same way, but because the wheel is gone, the power reading is not "At the wheels" but "At the hub" as it takes energy to get the tyres going which is then free when only measuring at the hub.

Where is your oil pick up? You say external pump, but is the external pump still using the stock pick up? If it is, is the sump gated and baffled?

The turbo at 1 Bar makes this tihng lay sideways coming on boost in 3rd... Which is around 130KM/H... That's with semis on as well! Yep... It's definitely beyond my ability! LOL But... It does good skids! LOL Edit: And Duncan, definitely does seat time + instruction improve driving 10 fold! That Texi day was one of the most fun days I've had in ages, and learnt so much. I was so glad I took the liner there for it's first locked diff outing. Edit: And I'm off to find out some info from those running E85...

The thoughts of NA were mainly because going to a newer, better designed more efficient (better matched) turbo, would cost alot more then N/A with some cheap new pistons added... That and the sound of 8500RPM with the shortest induction possible was going to be beautiful... But that may change... As I said, this is the drawing board stages right now.

Watch this space people... More crazy ideas to come... Like 11:1 CR with a turbo

That's an extremely tempting swap. You do realise how ridiculous this turbo is on the circuit and the smoke plumes it makes? (Was going to test it with a oil pressure regulator) to see if it could be avoided. We need to talk more in detail, I pmd you MSN details earlier if you have it?

What's your setup? I'm keen on swaps for something smaller so long as it's new new... Is your setup egay style or proper? The ole' high flow setup still runs out of puff about around 5000RPM. What I'd be looking at is something a TOUCH larger (If not the same size as) a GT3076R. But to change that is manifold, turbo, and dump. To me ~$3000 worth of change over...

Ha ha ha, I agree whole heartedly with you Duncan, I want nothing more then to keep the flutter BUT, is it not true, those who started small, in lower powered, worse handling cars and perservered generally learnt to go quicker then those who just throw money at a car? I'm chasing lap times, and want to do it by clean, fast driving, NOT throwing more power in. If I do 100% go an NA (There's a high likely hood) then I'll be selling the mani and turbo+wastegate for sure, and I'd love a 26 head... So I might just do that... Tempted to throw me an offer on it all?

It makes things start knocking. Do everything you can to avoid it, and don't try and "test" to see if it's cured... It's expensive if it isn't.

Sounds possible like exhaust gasket leak.

I WAS going to update my above post with some thoughts, BUT I can't edit it... So, I'm having VERY evil thoughts after Mr Zebra decided to point out, the 25DE slugs will bump my CR right up. Now the reason I'm thinking of turning NA, is it will make the car easier to learn to drive. IE, I'll learn to brake and corner alot better. Coupled with a 3.0L, 11:1 CR and some exhaust, and cam toying, I reckon I can get this thing to actually rocket along... Considering with the waste gate removed at Oran Park, I was still seeing speeds of ~175KM/H down the main straight, from memory Cass is only seeing around 170-180KM/H on the same straight. So that's my 3.0L with 8.3:1 CR, on a turbo system thats building no boost and tuned cop rich at atmospheric pressure... Now, I hear Duncan absolutely SCREAMING in agony at a GTS-t being turned NA... But keep with me. Build this engine, 11:1 CR, nice exhaust on it, learn to drive it, setup the suspension... When I need more power, that's easy... Turbo at around 1Bar of boost... Did a whole heap of people just scream again? But think about, cars USED to run 8:1 (And EVEN LOWER) CR for turbos... Now, a nice 9:1 and even higher is common (The MPS3 runs 9.5:1!!!) Why? Fuel has gotten better and so has tuning! So, give it 1 - 2 years from now. Fuel such as E85, is going to be more available (Hopefully pump available), and it is allowing guys to tune RB25DETs with 20+PSI of boost PAST maximum torque in ignition... What's that telling me? More boost, or higher CR is needed... If you can screw the engine to the limit, and not ping or detonate, even on "lean" mixtures, you're not taking the fuel to the edge. So, in 1 - 2 years, there'll be better turbos out, and I'll be able to pick one that will perfectly suit pushing even only 1 bar, on a 3L with high CR... Now you scream "WHAT ABOUT THE FUEL SYSTEM!" well... The car is already sitting there with 880CC injectors, over kill for an N/A, but perfect for E85 and 1Bar... When I redo this engine, I'll be adding a surge tank, so it'll be a perfect time to suss out running a proper fuel cell and what pumps to run as well (Currently on an 044). So... Thoughts people? Proper 6-3-1 tuned manifold, 11:1 CR with the ability to later on throw a good turbo setup on and really make it haul ass? I'm at the point where I HAVE to decide what to do with this motor and turbo...

Greenslips from everywhere this year seem to have increased in price around $350. It's not just Skylines, it's ALL CARS.

Not yet, I'm waiting for Nick to speak to his people, and get his people to contact my people, and go from there. I've got quotes at the moment for some good electrical ones at $100 a piece (For oil temp, pressure and water temp) But I don't have a guage on hand to wack in

Bush bearing, so I was told not too... But I'm going to grab an oil pressure regulator (as have been discussed in another thread where someone runs an actual pressure regulator) and fit that to see if it stops.My problem is, I'm at the point for a new bottom end to go in now... So I have to decide how I want to attack it to set the car up for track work... High Comp N/A that revs its guts out, or buy a whole nwe turbo/mani setup and stick with the bottom ends how I have been... PCV is hooked up and working properly.

My car melts cats... Lucky I stick to the track! The comparison also, for those doing non cat, to cat testing should be done with a brand new cat. A mildly collapsed cat will rob massive amounts of power!

I have one "somewhere". It's not a genuine one, but it "fits"

Deja Vu eh? Good stuff Sean! Now go rip a skid!

It's alright Eric, I already knew you didn't like my skids I'm going to try and chase Owen as I thought he had some video too. Ben, would be awesome if your mates got some of my skid videos. And if they didn't vids of other peoples skids is nearly as good for me!