MBS206

Changing the ramp rate on a dyno can change torque readings. As will other factors. The true test is the 1/4 mile.

Actually, power at the back wheels is meaningless. Torque is what makes the car move quickly!

Just being a part of the club is worth while, not just for cheaper events. Mind you, the cheapened Merch is also well worth it...

If you have the stuff... PUT IT IN! Geebus christ, if I had all that stuff my block would have been out and honed and bored long long ago. Also, just use standard head bolts. Don't worry about going the extra cost on studs if it'll save you a touch now.

I think the biggest difference will be getting rid of that "knock knock knock" noise... ROFL The fun starts tomorrow... Rip old motor out and get the head setup off it... Then I gotta wait till I can pick the block up mid week... Then put it back together... Then see if it runs... Then rip a skid... See if it'll still run... Then see if it goes on the day of race day... ROFL 17 day dead line to replace a motor... And the only thing I've got at the moment is a dead motor... ROFL

f**k it... Paid. I'd say Group 4... Never got a time on OP GP, but I kept climbing up on the ass of other cars when it actually ran... So better to be in Group 4 I think... put us in Group 5 if you want... I'll be running the same setup except on semis (So long as the car runs)

If only it were raining... You'd have the most powerful skyline EVAH!!!

Using this post to track who's interested as I can't edit 1st post 1. Cassbo 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Hmm... Think I'll pay tomorrow...

If you're building it to last, sure... But whilst you're there you should do the oil pump, all the mods, custom sump, forged pistons etc... I wouldn't trust 20 year old pistons to last, even with fresh rings and hone... My "stock" bottom end RB30, will be exactly that... STOCK... I'll let you all know how many minutes it lasts...

Bringing boost on earlier, and quicker, matched with he has no transbrake, might be making 7PSi on the line with the RB25 at X power, but the RB30 should push boost up a touch more, and be making alot more torque = better off the line if it'll hook up... Yep, it'll make the car a shit load quick off the mark then the 25, so long as grip is available... If he can't get full boost up in the 25 sitting on the line, then more boost won't help it launch quicker, just top end. Either displacement, or nitrous is needed basically...

How many spots are actually open... I'll be screwing my motor back together in the next 2 weeks... Like, 1 week before race day... But I'm not sure if I should enter or not in case it breaks?

Hey guys, As with my other group buy thread, one of my suppliers has given me pricing for the "Performance Box" as it is called. It is a track timer, as well as GPS logger etc. Does some really cool things from monitoring speed, G forces, and logging it all for you, and then using the GPS tracking, it overlays it on the race track you're on, for anaysis of laps, giving you accurate race lines that you've been using. Some links for info: http://www.performancebox.co.uk/ http://www.racerindustries.com/store/index...ca1c98bee7cdcde The ones we'll be getting is the PB02. Price for 5: $800 Price for 10: $750 As with my other GB, I want a list of 10 people who will DEFINITELY want the Performance Box, once I have 10, I will contact everyone and then you can make payment. Shipping on these to any where should be no more then $15. They are being bought from Total Race at 38 Montague St North Wollongong, NSW 2500 Interested: 1. 2. 3. 4. 5. 6. 7. 8. 9. 10.

Hey all, I've been talking to one of the shops my family and I use to get bits and pieces (And very expensive bits and pieces) and they're one of the few authorised distribution points in Australia. They've given me some prices for the ability to do group buys on R33 GTS-t brake pads, and Rotors of Project Mu. Now, I got the prices on their two street/race style pads, front and rear, and the R33 GTS-t only has the SCR rotors available. So info first: End Date: 1st of December OR When I have 10 people ready to buy. Payment: I'll line up an account, and give everyone a reference number to quote so I can track it, but I will NOT take any sort of payment, until I'm about to place the order (IE, at the close date, or when we have 10 people ready to roll) Product information: Brand: Project Mu. Front Project MU Type NS Front Pads for R33 GTST: http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_ns.php 1 Set: $189 5-9 Sets: $170 10 Sets: $159 Project MU B-Spec Front Pads for R33 GTST http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/pad_bspec.php 1 Set: $242 5-9 Sets: $218 10 Sets: $199 Project MU SCR Front Rotors for R33 GTST http://www.project-mu.com.au/en/products/rotor_scr.php 1 Set: $770 5-9 Sets: $693 10 Sets: $649 Rear Project MU Rear Type NS: 1 Set: $179 5-9 Sets: $161 10 Sets: $149 Project MU Rear B-Spec: 1 Set: $215 5-9 Sets: $193 10 Sets: $179 Project MU Rear SCR Rotors: 1 Set: $790 5-9 Sets: $710 10 Sets: $669 Now, with the pads, I only want to order ONE TYPE, so which ever one becomes more popular, thats what we get. You DON'T have to buy rotors as well, I'm doing these all on SEPERATE ORDERS. You don't have to buy front AND back pads either. You only need to want ONE product and you can vest interest. Please DO NOT state you want them, if when it comes to money collection time you "won't have any" SERIOUS interest only. I am getting these supplied from: Alan @ Total Race 38B Montague St North Wollongong NSW 2500 I will be placing the order, and they can be picked up from my place in Wollongong Will put address up when I put up bank details. As soon as I have 10 people wanting one specific item, I will collect money, and then order. I ahve listed the prices out exactly as my supplier gave them too me. You can see the savings! These are for R33 GTS-t ONLY! If R33 GTS-t parts fit your car, then feel free to buy Interested: Project MU Type NS Front Pads for R33 GTST: Project MU B-Spec Front Pads for R33 GTST Project MU SCR Front Rotors for R33 GTST Project MU Rear Type NS: Project MU Rear B-Spec: Project MU Rear SCR Rotors: If we reach the 1st of December, and I only have 5 - 9 people, obviously group buy will be done at that price if all people agree. Anything less then 5 people, no buy will go ahead. Delivery costs unknown, but I get around to the Nowra and Sydney areas a bit so can drop off.

I want slicks... *cries* Why must I not have enough money for motor AND slicks?!

There is no huge HP gain no... It's the shit loads of torque earlier on in the rev range that make it faster. Hence, same RPM, same power, less boost... So keep the boost up the same, same RPM, and low and behold, MORE POWER! The 3Lt picks up roughly 15 - 20% more torque at the same boost levels. (But you have to be aware, there is DEFINITELY more air flow) 250RWKWs and traction issues at 130KM/h... That's what the 3L does...

I see it this way... a new motor with me replacing it costs around $500... I'm gunna put an old one in and wind the boost right up into it...

See how I'm fairing, BUT the liner MAY be there!

GTR badges on a non GTR is like an NA driver saying their car is fast...

Slim Fail... It's like a slim chance... But it didn't work...

It's okay... Everyone else ignores me too... Least you didn't put me on the list twice...

price on head + intake plenum and throttles?

I was running an unknown bottom end... Big end let go due to oil surge and an "over rev" on Oran Park... I plan to flog the living shit out of this slapper I put together... On a factory RB30E bottom end, (Like one that's unopened since being built originally) and I'm looking to throw between 14 - 20PSi down it from a massif turbo... Only oil mods will be sump vent, and also winged/baffled/extended style of sump.

From memory I had to remove the solid line all together from mine, and go direct from the lid of the tank to the pump.