MBS206

Location?

Define how you knocked every other ECU out at that price range? For the same price range, you have the Adaptronic ECU, that does everything the VIPEC does, and it is 100% local.

They only take a few days to go through... Either way, it's only a $40 difference... One of these days normally would be $250 - $350... It's probably your last chance... Just do it!

Head to Nissan. Order the whole VRS kit. Should cost roughly $300. Has all gaskets for top end. At the same time, get the nuts Then go to a performance shop, and get the SHORTENED version of the exhaust studs if running aftermarket mani If not, order them at nissan... Edit: Find a good nissan dealer, they'll be able to look the numbers up in their program.

Location?

I don't have a single issue with running my pressure source from the manifold, and I know many people who do it also. And I have a light switch turbo, in the fact it's nothing nothingn othing everything all at once. Doesn't spike one bit. From down near the intercooler, I'd say is actually more hose then running straight across the firewall. Also, I didn't think the waste gate allowed the air from the pressure source line to "vent" to atmosphere. Therefore, pressure along that line should always be the same no matter what. Also, if your boost guage is T'd from before the cooler, how do you know how much boost you're running at the motor? Like my car runs a map sensor, so if I take my boost reading before the FMIC, where the temperature is roughly going to be the same (Hence, at same pressure etc, same amount of air is there) but my FMIC is working a lot better as it's colder, suddenly my motor sees 2 PSI less then I want it too, the MAP sensor picks up on this, and will make the car run in a different load point on the MAP... Shortening the engines life... And hey, I know I'd rather replace a $2000 turbo then a $7000 - $10000 motor... Also, if you're running that high up near the top of where you should be running the turbo, that pushing one or two more PSI is going to damage it, then really, you need to rethink your logic of choice of turbo, and pressure you're running... Also, are you saying your boost guage, you don't let it read into vacuum?

I suggest taking it from the inlet manifold so that when you shut the throttle it slams the waste gate shut... Will help you tremendously in getting it spooling properly in the next gear, and then your EBC if you go to run one, will be taking the pressure source, from the point most people have their boost gauges running from...

2 pumps... No one way valve... When you turn one pump off, you do realise fuel flows BACKWARDS through the second pump right? In much the same fashion if one pump dies, it'll send fuel backwards out the dead pump, leaning your engine out? Very VERY bad idea for a fuel setup... Get ONE main pump. If it dies, at least the engine just turns off... It doesn't lean out.

For all of you up for a bit of fun in the south coast region, who don't mind mingling with other kinds of car fold (IE, not just hanging with Nissans) check out www.southcoastcarscene.com/forum

Typically you remove the whole boost controller as it is a bastard piece of shit really. (Although mine is still bolted to the firewall, it really is crap, and is disconnected)

Turbo smart bleed valve has a TPiece in it correct? If it does, openit, remove the ball and spring, put it back together. (WITHOUT THE BALL AND SPRING) This thing holds the waste gate open. Had the same Boost Controller, had the EXACT same issue.

Ha ha ha, yeah, I was looking at that too going "Hmm... Are you meant to bounce off obstacles and use the sand trap to get around this course quickly?"

Is that picture saying take turn one at 190km/h?

She's not building a streeter, she's building a show pony. Nothing more, nothing less. Oh, and MISSR34 did you ever find your missing KWs that your knock sensors were supposedly hiding... With your PFC and all that doesn't do anythign with the knock reading other then flash a light... See, we'll let that be lesson one for all the boys here. She WON'T listen to you, no matter what you tell her. Supposedly knock sensors caused her to be majorly down on power, whilst she ran a PFC... Oh, and she argued black and blue they were the fault...

As in, on the street, you're not likely to see boost, unless you wind it up in 2 - 3 gears first.

T51R... f**king big turbo... Going to be pretty useless on the street...

Retune the car. That's the issue. Running a map sensor, on an engine you just changedVE of.

I use ETM. One he's local to me. Two, he's always looked after me, and never bullshits. Thirdly, I currently do have a 6BOOST manifold on the car, and the welds from ETM are so much nicer. As Kyle tends to finish you get "holes" in the welding... Not an actual hole, but a weak point... ETM manifolds, you don't.

Thanks very much, Just sent through the email with all details.

Are we able to get the rules, and a list of people posted in the first post of this thread, and exactly what is required on the day, for those of us who have paid membership, but haven't yet got the rights to view the member area? Thanks.

On this path... How can you identify a neo engine when you have the whole engine there?

What've you gone and broken this time Tristan? Or haven't you fixed the diffs up yet?

I'd also be checking you haven't snapped the mounting brackets off the firewall for the clutch pedal... I snapped the top one off with my setup, and could only JUST get the thing to disengage.

Ha ha ha, I went the other way, used to do everything myself, now I just can't be f**ked jacking the car up after the conversion, so I just pay Kon @ WAS now to do it all.

Membership in today... And paid. PM'd you Abo Bob.