MBS206

I don't see a 180cm cooler fitting... I have a 100mm cooler, and it fits, with just a tiny bit of room to spare. (And I mean just)

Membership will be faxed tonight. I'm COMING!!! (If I can get in quick enough before everyone else!)

When I priced it, the alloy one was $50 more expensive from Just Jap then my KoyoRad Edit: I'm talking a plastic replacement, from Koyo, not OEM nissan. Also, I was advised against it by many people, as some alloys don't cool all that great.

It's in for a full tune. Plus oil flush, coolant flush, and a few other things like a few PS lines changed. Currently it's at the state if you can get it to start, it'll barely idle, won't rev much at all. I KNOW I won't get a phone call, until it's basically driving like factory I've given up on servicing my car now-a-days, I just can't be bothered jacking it up and doing all the shit, that it'll be going to WAS for everything from now on. Kon does work on a lot of Holdens and Fords as he loves V8s, BUT if you go by enough, you'll see those Holdens and Fords being challenged for numbers by the WRX, Skylines, and other imports. He deals in them all, and his quality of work is TOP NOTCH.

My white R33 is currently sitting in the workshop of WAS. Kon is a great bloke. Just don't expect to rock up and have it booked in for the next day for things like tunes etc. He's great, but busy! Does top notch work too... PS: i'm from Wollongong, but it's been around 8 - 10 months since my Skyline has graced the roads of Wollongong (Other then a 10 minute stint up the freeway a few weeks ago)

It depends purely on what the copper rights down. The copper can give you one HOUR to get the car off the road. I got given 21 days for mine for "passing the attitude test"

Point me to membership form... I think I'm cancelling my holiday the weekend after... Just for this...

Gap your plugs down. Take them down to about 0.6mm. If the issue goes away, go and buy some fresh plugs, gap them to 0.8mm AND buy some BRAND NEW split fire coil packs

Do the compression check again. This time put a few little squirts of oil down the spark plug hole. If comp goes up, your piston rings are shot. As to the miss fire. The top loom is a common fault.

Higher compression ratio...

Killerwasps?

I'm actually envious of your car... Mine goes on the rollers next week (If everything goes to plan...) it reaches the mechanics tomorrow... (FINALLY!!!) If I can get even HALF of the area under the curve that you have, I'll be ecstatic! I need a better turbo on their... (Although, can't complain for a 6boost mani + turbo for $1000... )

Anthony, take notes of the words DYNO QUEEN. Your car is actually built to go. I'm talking about the cars that go "nothing nothing nothing" and in the last 500RPM smash out a ridiculously high number. You hvae ALOT of area under the curve. Which equates to actually GOING SOMEWHERE. IE, Not a dyno queen...

Have you still got the metal " heat shield" in place over the mount? Heat + torque = death.

What's done to the car, and what car?

Coil packs/plugs... You're all too worried aobut the actuator to see the guy has classic coil pack break down...

Also take into effect power curve... Really, it's the area under the torque curve that gets you down the strip quickest... 500RWHP Dyno queens are CONSTANTLY shown up on the strip by 300RWHP STREET cars... Purely, as the 500RWHP car has the worlds shittest power delivery...

Age old debate that people seem to miss the main physics of... Blades don't stop spinning... The blades are setup uni directional, that is, spin them one way, they move air, spin them the other, they do 2/5ths of f**k all. Secondly, the "chopping" noise is the fact that the pressure applied by turbo is less then that in the pipe, so high pressure flows out the cooler pipes towards air filter. Suddenly, pressure applied by turbo is greater, so some air gets sucked back in. Making a low pressure... This process continues... Making sound waves... No damage to turbo. Also, for those stating it causes more lag between gear shifts, it only causes more lag if you keep the pressure source for the wastegate on the IC piping. Run it to the manifold, no issues what so ever.

I'm still putting money on the turbos are getting to their efficiency... The N1s are good on a stock RB26 at around 24PSi... Now you're pushing 17PSi through... So an absolute pressure of 31.7PSi... Now add in the fact you're ingesting an extra 15% of that air, rather then it being a restriction... So you're really pushing ~37PSi... Take back off the 1 atmosphere... You're pushing around 22/23PSi "comparison" wise... But you have to think, at the same time, when you push 15% more air in, you're pushing MORE then 15% more air out... (Heat, expansion, yada yada yada) you're just pushing those poor turbos WAY past their efficiency range... Get the maps out, and do the maths... Those turbos are out of their league! A friend pushes his at 24PSi on a stock capacity 26... Makes 320AWKW... And it makes it up near 6500RPM... You may "only" be making 300AWKW in yours... But you have to think, you're making it at a LOT lower RPM if you're running outta power at 6250... Which means, you're making more torque... So you're using more fuel, and air (Less restriction, same boost level, more air flow... ), at a lower RPM... TURBOS ARE OUT OF EFFICIENCY... Logic says it...

Maybe the ones you're listening to have larger turbos?

How far away from the exhaust tip did he have the microphone? From your description he had it right at the exhaust tip...

Explain how it's a backwards/sideways step on a skyline? I run INDIVIDUAL COILS per cylinder, but run wasted spark... Wasted spark is not just about having 1 coil, for 2 cylinders, it is PURELY about firing 2 or more spark plugs, when only one is actually making the power.

I'd also be looking at the turbo maps of the N1s... It's all about air flow, not boost where they become inefficient, so moneypit could be well on the money... And getting bigger cams, is just going to make the problem worse if he's correct.

The one I run has a RRP of $1000, and from memory the plug in loom + Map sensor was $290 RRP IIRC.

The 1JZ and I believe 2JZ also run MAP... Lots of manufacturers cars run MAP from the factory My car takes a couple of cranks to fire, but that is purely the ECU, and NOTHING to do with it being MAP based.